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H7YMPSTE7YD 






AN 

OP THE 

TOWN & CASTJLE 

OB 

WARWICK; 



AND OF THK 



$tis$btmxm$ Spa 



LEAMINGTON? 



TO WHICH ARE ADDED. 



Short Notices of the Towns, Villages, &;c. 



WITHIN THE CIRCUIT OF TEN MILES. 



Intended principally for the Information of Strangers. 



Miratur, facilisque oculos fert omnia circum 

jEneas, capiturque locis ; et singula IebIus 

Exquiritque audWque virum monumenta priorum. ViRG. 



i©artoicft : 

PRINTED BY AND FOR H. SHARPE, ^nSfwaS* 

And Sold by Messrs. Rivington, St. PauV sChurch-Yard, London t 
and all other Booksellers. 

1815. 



Ztfottti&tmmt 



THOUGH the principal object of the fol- 
lowing Work, as expressed in the Title Page, is, the 
information of Strangers, especially those resorting to 
the celebrated Spa of Leamington : y£t the Writer had 
another object in view — to whlch s he acknowledges, his 
hopes and his wishes were, with equal or greater ardour, 
directed. During his residence in Warwick, or Its im- 
mediate vicinity, he has often had occasion to witness 
the regret, which, he believes, has long been felt, that 
no work of the nature of the present has yet appeared, 
of easy access, and comprising, within a moderate com- 
pass, the information, that might be collected concerning 
a town of such remote antiquity, and so much early and 
present celebrity. The hope, he ventured to entertain, 
if supplying that deficiency, and of offering to the In- 
habitants of Warwick an acceptable present, the Writer 
is provd to own, has contributed more than any other 

A 2 



consideration to animate his exertions, in the collection of 
his materials and the choice of his topics. Having re- 
sided amongst them, nearly the fourth part of a century, 
differing from many in certain political, and from 
more in certain religious opinions, which he conceives 
to be of no small importance — he would hold it most 
unjust and most ungrateful not to acknowledge the nu- 
merous instances of real candour and kindness, which he 
has verij generally received from them, during the whole 
course of that time. He has only to lament one striking 
exception, ivhich occurred long ago ; and which if still 
remembered with feelings of regret- — it is regret, he is 
sure, unaccompanied with the slightest resentment. Should 
the present attempt to lay before the Inhabitants of 
Warwick an Historical and Descriptive Account, tolera- 
bly complete, and in the main correct, of their ancient 
and interesting Town, and of other neighbouring places, 
be accepted by them, as some return for the great obli- 
gations, which their favo, able opinion and their kind and 
friendly civilities have conferred upon him ; the dearest 
ivish of the Writer will be accomplished, and his labours 
will obtain their best and most valued reward. 

Leam, Sept, \, 1815, 



ij^toucal anb Dcsfcriptiijc 3G«ount 



WARWICK, &c 



CHAP. I. 



<£arlp i^igtorp. 

| 

WARWICK founded by Gutheline — enlarged by Guiderius— 'destroyed ty the 
Picts — repaired by Car act a cm— fortified by the Romans — destroyed « 
second time by the Picts — rebuilt by Const ant ine — destroyed a third time 
bu the Pirts — rebuilt by Gwdyr — a fourth time destroyed by the Saxons — 
rebuilt by Warremund — disputed whether a Roman Station — a fifth time 
destroyed by the Danes — rebuilt, and the Castle founded by Ethelfieda — 
a sixth time destroyed by the Danes — rebuilt— fort ified t and the Castle 
strengthened by order of William I. — paved and improved by Guy de 
Beauchamp — its ancient Churches and Edifices enumerated — represented 
early in Parliament — incorporated — destroyed by Fire — rebuilt. 

VTUTHELINE, or, as he is otherwise called, Kimber- 
line, who was King of the Britons, about the Christian 
era, is said by Rous, the celebrated antiquary, himself 
a native of the place, to have been the FOUNDER of 
WARWICK.* Its name originally, according to him, 
was Caer-guthleo7i, and, by contraction, Caer-leon; from 
Caer, which signifies a city, and Giithlin, the name of its 
founder. He, also, asserts that the town was considerably 
enlarged and improved by Guiderius, another British 
King ; that it afterwards suffered greatly, during the wars 
of the Picts and Scots ; and that it continued in a ruinous 
condition, till it was rebuilt by Caractacus, the most 
distinguished of all the early British Princes, who erected 
in it a manor-house for himself, and founded a church 
in the market-place, dedicated to St. John the Baptist. 



* ; 'i Reg. Aug!, p h:;, &c 



EARLY HISTORY 



Destroyed by the Picts— Rebuilt by Gwdyr — Made a Bishop's See. 

When this high-spirited but unfortunate prince, 
after a brave and vigorous resistance of nine years, was 
completely subdued by the power of the Roman arms, in 
the reign of the Emperor Claudius ; his general, Pub. 
Ost. Scapula^ A. D. 50. in order to secure his conquests, 
as we are informed by Tacitus, erected various fortifica- 
tions, on the rivers Avon and Severn ;■* one of which, 
there is considerable reason to believe, was at Warwick, as 
will be more distinctly stated in the sequel of this chapter. 

After its restoration and enlargement under the 
fostering cares of Caractacus, and the final secession of 
the Romans, from the whole Island in the year 426, 
Rous farther asserts that Warwick was again laid in 
ruins, during one of those sudden and frequent wars 
which usually mark the character of barbarous ages ; and 
that it was again rebuilt by Constantine, another British 
king, who called it Caer-Umber. Upon his death, it was 
a third time exposed to the desolating calamities of war ; 
and, from that period, continued in a ruinous state, till it 
was a third time, rebuilt by another British king, named 
Gwdyr, who called it after himself, Caer Gwar. About 
that period of its history, if the fact be sufficiently 
verified, Warwick was made a Bishop's see, by Dubre- 
tius, afterwards Bishop of St David's, who chose for 
his episcopal church, not St Johns, but another, AU 
Saints', which stood on the site, where the Castle was 
afterwards built. This season of its prosperity was, * 
however, short ; and the town was exposed to new and 
dreadful devastations, during the time of the Saxon 



* — - — cinctosque eastris Antomim et Sabrinam fiuvios cohikere parat. — Tac. Ann. 
lib.su. a. Si>. 



OF WARWICK. 



DestTWi/ed by the Saxons — Rebuilt by VSurremund — and calCd Warrcuyk. 

invasions. But when that warlike people had completely 
established themselves in the country, and had divided it 
into provinces, the Kingdom of Mercia was allotted to 
Warremund ; and by him the town was once more 
rebuilt, and was called, after his name, Warrewyk. In 
the time of the Anglo-Saxons, however, this town was 
certainly called werhica, as appears from the inscrip- 
tion on an existing and genuine Saxon penny,* of 
Harthacnut, minted at this place. It is also written 
in the Saxon Chronicle werinca, and w^ringwic, 
and the county is called wiERiNWiCKSHiRE.^ 

But to this account of the foundation and the 
subsequent events, in the early history of Warwick, as 
related by Rous, and recited with approbation by Dug- 
dale, some considerable objections have been opposed, 
by several antiquarians, and particularly by Dr. Thomas,|| 
the learned Editor of an enlarged edition of the Antiquities 
of Warwickshire, published in 1730. In his opinion, tho 
town was not of British but of Saxon origin ; and that it 
was ever a Roman station is a supposition utterly rejected 
by him. The facts, on which he principally relies, are, 
that no Roman antiquities have ever been discovered here*, 
and that, there was a military station, beyond all doubt^ 
at Chesterton, only six miles distant — whence it seems 
improbable that another should have been established, so 
near as Warwick. Upon the whole, however, not only 



* This curious coin, huherto unpublished, and as to the name of this town^ unique t 
is in the cabinet «f William Staunton, Esq. of Longbridge, near Warwick. 

§ From w&ring, a mound or bulwark, and wyk, or wick, a town, the curved bank of 
4 river, or a castle. Sax. Chron. p. 101. 

§ bee Thomas' E-Jif. of Dwgdale, vol. i. p. 371. Ward's New Survey, p. 49.9' 

A % 



EARLY HISTORY 



Disputed whether a Unman Station — Destroyed by the Danes. 

Pugdale, but most of the great antiquarians, as Camden, 
Baxter, Stukeley, Salmon, and Bartlett,* admit as 
credible the account of Rous ; and assert not only that 
Warwick was originally a British town but that it was 
afterwards a Roman Station. This account, they think, 
is greatly confirmed by one of its ancient names, Caer- 
Gwar, derived, they say, from a British word, signifying 
prcesidium, a garrison : and is still further confirmed by 
the situation of the place— which is on a fine rocky 
elevation, such as was usually chosen by the Romans — 
on the banks of the Avon, where, Tacitus affirms several 
fortifications were actually erected — in the very center, 
ioo, of the island, like the Prcesidium in Corsica — and 
closely adjoining to the Fosse Way leading from Ciren- 
cester, and uniting with the great Roman Road, called 
Waiting Street. A situation so happily adapted to all 
the purposes of a military station, it may well be sup- 
posed, could scarcely be overlooked ;|| and some have even 
ventured to give it, as their opinion, that Warwick is 
the Prcesidium Romanorum, mentioned in the Notitia 
Imperii ;§ where, it is said, a cohort of Dalmatian horse 
was placed, under the immediate command of the Dux 
Britanniarum. But this last opinion, though supported 
by most of the great antiquarians, just enumerated, can 



* Cammn Gough's Ed. v. ii. p. 444. Baxter's British Antiquities. Stuke- 
ley's Iiin. Curios. II. i'O. Salmon's Surv. of the Rom. Stations, p. 489. Bartlett's 
Hist, and Ant. of Manceter, p. 6. 

J| Dr. Stukeley thought he discovered traces of an encampment, on the east 
side of the river, in a field opposite to the Castle. It. p. 20. 

§ Not. Imp. Sectio. lxiii. «• Sub dispositione viri spectabilis ducis Britanniar-mr., 
Praefectus equitum Dalmatarum, Prajsidio." — Praesidium is not mentioned in the Itinera? y 
©f Antoninus; but Mr. Ward and the learned Horseley suppose ilie Presidium of 
ihe Notitia to be the Praetorium of the Iter, and they fix the place of it, not at Warwick, 
But at Broughton, ill Lincolnshire, Nevr Survey, p. 493. Brit. Aut. 481. 



OF WARWICK. 



Repaired, and the Cast/e founded by Klke.tjleda. 



only be received, and indeed, is only given, as purely 
conjectural.* 

After the establishment of the Saxons in Britain, 
the town of Warwick continued peaceful and prosperous, 
till at length it was destroyed by the Danes. It speedily 
rose, however, to more than its former consequence, 
under the auspices of Ethelfleda, the accomplished 
daughter of the great King Alfred, and the inheritor,!] 
in a high degree, of her fathers genius and enterprizing 
spirit. By this Princess, who was married to Etheldred, 
Earl of Mercia, the town was completely repaired and 
considerably enlarged and improved : and by her, also, 
the foundation of the Castle was laid in 915; which soon 
became the residence of the reputed Earls § of those times, 
and proved of important consequence in securing the 
peace, not only of the town itself^ but of the whole 
surrounding country. 

Thus re-edified, enlarged, and embellished, by the 
cares of that active and spirited Princess, and defended 
by its newly-erected fortifications, Warwick enjoyed long 
and uninterrupted repose : till it was doomed once more 
to sustain dreadful injuries, from the incursions of the 
Danes, under Canute, in the year 10 lo\ This was 



* It is carious to observe how very far lue strength of confidence L9 sometimes suffer !/<l 
to oft-run the strength of evidence. Ireland, in his Pict. Views on the Warwidfchir* 
Avon, p. |. 33, tli us expresses himself, " Warwick, it is well known, was calltd by the 
Romans, Piaesidium." 

|{ See IIenh*'s Hist, of Eng. v. iii. p. 93. See also Spei.iw an '5 Life of Alfred. 

§ They were either deputies or lieutenants to the Earls of Alercii, or else officers 
immediately appointed b\ lue King, (tough's Cam. v. ti. p. 444. Dngdale, 0*?£. Edit 
p. ?99. 



EARLY HISTORY 



Fortified, and the Castle strengthened by order of William J. 

. 1' ' i i n ———i n. i TV i ii r H i i n i ii I ' i TT ii ii i i i 

the last instance of its suffering from hostile attack: 
and, in tracing the early history of Warwick, it will he 
thought not a little remarkable that, from its foundation 
to the period of the Norman conquest, the town was 
either greatly injured, or totally destroyed, no less than 
-six successive times ; nor can a more decisive proof be de- 
manded of its ancient consequence, than that it should have 
been so often assailed and destroyed, and as often repaired 
or rebuilt. From all the injuries it suffered, in the last 
attack of the Danes, the town quickly recovered : and, at 
the era of the Conquest, it is not only mentioned,^ in 
Domesday Boob, as a borough (i burgns" containing 26 1 
houses ; but was also evidently regarded as a place of 
considerable strength and importance. 

At that period, the name of its Earl or Vkecount y 
was Turchill, a nobleman of great power and vast 
possessions 1 1 in this and the neighbouring counties. As 
the conqueror, in order to secure his newly- acquired autho- 
rity had determined to repair the fortified places, and to 
erect others in various parts of his dominions ; Turchill 
was directed by him to fortify the town and the castle 
6f Warwick, In pursuance of this order, the town was 
surrounded with strong walls and a ditch : and the castle 
was strengthened and enlarged — which, till that time, con- 
sisted of little more than the keep or dungeon. On this 
occasion, four houses, belonging to the Priors of Coventry 3 
were demolished. 



* For an extract from Domesday Book of all that relates to Warwick, se« 
Appendix, No. l. 

|j A long catalogue of Ins numerous Estates, amounting to no less than 48, mn^ to* 
5«en in Ducdale, Grig. Edit. p. 3wz and Thomas's Edit; p. 37(5-7. 



OF WARWICK. 



Ancient Churches and other Edifices. 



These original fortifications were afterwards re- 
paired, and the pavement of the town was begun in the 
reign of Edw. L by Guy de Beauchamp, though not 
finished till long after; who, in order to defray the 
expense, obtained from that prince and from his suc- 
cessors, patents for receiving a certain toll upon all 
commodities, brought for sale at the public markets. 
Some remains of these fortifications were visible in the 
time of Leland, who began his Itinerary in the reign 
of Henry VII. 1538. "The towne of Warwick" says 
lie, " has beene right strongly ditched and walled, having 
the compasse of a good mile within its walls. The dike 
is most manifestly perceived from the castle to the West 
gate ; and there is the great crest of earth that the wa]les 
stood on. Part of the walles neere the gates are yet 
seene. The -East and West gates still remaine. The 
north gate is downe. The strength of the bridge, by 
the castle, stood for the South gate."* 

The religious edifices of Warwick, those, at least, 
established by public authority, were in former times 
much more numerous, than in the present. But this 
difference is nearly compensated by the introduction of 
other places of worship, which, tho' not established or 
supported, are, however, wisely and liberally protected 
by the state. Besides the two churches of St. Mary 
and St. Nicholas, which now remain ; there were for- 
merly one dedicated to All Saints, within the precincts 
of the castle ; another to St. John the Baptist, in the 
market place ; a third to St. James, over the West 
gate ; a fourth to Saint Peter, over the East gate ; 
a fifth to St. Sepulchre, where the Priory now stands ; 

* Ilia. vgI. iv. p. 61* 



EARLY HISTORY 



Religious Institutions dissolved — Represented in Parliament. 



a sixth to St. Helen, near the Bridge-end; and two 
others, to St Michael and St Lawrence, the former 
at the lower end of the Saltisford, and the latter at 
that of the West Street. There were, also, besides the 
Priory, a Nunnery, a House of Templars, a Hospital for 
the reception of strangers, called St Johns, all situated 
near St Nicholas' Church : a hospital for Lepers, near St 
Michael's ; a House of Preaching Friars, commonly called 
the Black Friars, near the West-street, and two Guilds, 
or Lay Fraternities, at the upper end of the same street. 

Of the original foundation, and subsequent history 
of these various ancient edifices, little is known ; but it 
appears that, in the reign of Edw. III. the churches of 
St John, St. Michael, St Lawrence, St. Peter, aud St. 
James were falling fast into decay ; and that some of 
them were, besides, without the convenience of ground 
for sepulture. It was found, also, that the church of 
St. Mary, together with that of St. Nicholas, was of 
a size sufficient to accommodate all that usually resorted 
to the public services of religion. To these two churches 
only, by an ecclesiastical decree, bearing date 136? , all 
the inhabitants were, therefore, required to repair, for- 
the purposes of public devotion. The other churches 
were then abandoned to their fate ; and, in the progress 
of time, by decay and dilapidation, most of them disap- 
peared, leaving not a trace behind. The other religious 
or charitable institutions continued till the time of the 
Reformation, when they were all dissolved. 

At what period of time Warwick began to send 
Members to Parliament, cannot be ascertained. From 
the Rolls of Parliament, however, it appears that it 



OF WARWICK. 



Office of Mayor instituted — Town incorporated. 

was represented in that Assembly, as early as any of 
the boroughs. Dugdale* refers to an order, in the 
28th of Edw. I. addressed to the municipal officers 
of the town, to defray the reasonable expences of Will* 
de Stodely and Philip de Rous for their services in 
Parliament, in that year at Westminster ; and also to 
a similar order, in the reign of Edward III. 

Nor does it appear when the office of Mayor was 
first instituted ; nor whether, after its institution, it con- 
tinued without interruption. The first of the orders just 
mentioned, was addressed to the Mayor and Bailiffs ; the 
second, to the Bailiffs only ; and yet in the 7th of Edw. I. 
one Thomas Payn is mentioned, as bearing the office 
of Mayor. 

Whatever prescriptive right, the inhabitants might 
claim, it was not, according to Dugdale, till the reign 
of Philip and Mary, that they were incorporated by 
royal charter, under the name of Bailiff and Burgesses, 
with powers to elect certain officers, and . enact laws, 
for the regulation of the town. But from Leonard's 
Visitation of Warwickshire, taken in 1619, || it appears 
that the town was certainly incorporated as early as the 
37th of Hen. VIII. by the name of Burgesses only. In 
the reign of King James I. a new charter was granted, 
which did little more than give confirmation to the former. 
This was followed, in the reign of Will, and Mary, 
by another and a last charter, bearing date March 5, 
1694, under the authority of which the Corporation now 
act ; and of which, therefore, an abstract will be given 
in the Appendix.^ 

• Djcdui's Warwickshire, Orig. Ed p. 341. || Thu ancient M.S. is in 

ihe possession of Wm. Staunton, Esq. $ Appendix, No. 2. 

B 



10 EARLY HISTORY 



Town destroyed by a great Fire. 



In the same year, 1694, happened the Great 
Fire, which left more than half the town a heap of 
smoaking ruins. On the 5th of September in that year, 
about two in the afternoon, it is related, as a person 
was crossing a lane, with a piece of lighted wood in his 
hand, a spark Hew from it, and fell on the thatch of 
an adjoining house, which was soon in flames. Thus 
commencing near the south-western extremity of the 
High Street * the fire rapidly spread, aided by a most 
•violent and boisterous wind, utterly destroying both 
sides of that street, and extending thence some way 
down Jury Street. It then changed its direction, and 
advancing up the Church Street, it entirely consumed 
the eastern side ; and extended on the western, with des- 
tructive fury, as far as- the Market Place, great part of 
which was laid level with the ground. Some houses in 
Sheep Street were also destroyed ; and the flames were 
unfortunately communicated to St. Marys Church, from 
some half-burnt goods which were conveyed into it, as a 
place of safety- The body of that venerable structure 
was burnt down % bat happily the chancel, the chapter- 
house, and the Beauchamp chapel escaped. In the short 
space of six hours^ the habitations of no less than 250 



* The following is taken from the HiiRt. JVI. S. 6839. F. 342. in the 
British Museum. — 

«* An account of the dreadfull ffire fits Warwick, which happened the oth Instant, 
at 2 in the aftcmoone. 

** This irresistible fire in five hours time consumed ell the High Street, Church 
Street, Ship Street, the Great Chitrch, many Lnnes % and other Buildings: the bowses 
are numbered at present at 4601b. ; the damage at the least amounts to 120,0001b. ; this 
account was sent yesterday to our Bishop, with a particular of the money already sent 
for their Reliefe, Coventry, 2()0lb, Birmingham, lOOlb. Lord Brooke, 40lb. Loid 
Coventry, 30lb. in all about, 600lb. and wee are just going to make a collection for 
tfee support of the miserable Inhabitants. — Worcester, Sept. 10, 1694." 



OF WARWICK. ll 



Rebuilt by Act of Parliament. 



families were entirely reduced to ashes : and the damage 
was estimated at above ^120,000. Subscriptions for the 
relief of the wretched inhabitants were immediately 
set on foot at Coventry, Birmingham, Worcester, and 
other places ; and further relief was speedily obtained, by 
means of briefs,* from all parts of the kingdom. The 
town was afterwards rebuilt, by Act of Parliament, in 
a more commodious and handsome form, partly of free- 
stone, from the rock, on which it stands. This cala- 
mity, therefore, as in many other similar instances, 
however dreadful at trie time, has greatly contributed, 
in the result, to the regularity, the beauty, and the 
conveniency of the town ; and thus to the health, the 
accommodation, and the comfort, of all its succeeding 
inhabitants, 



* One of these briefs, which bears date Dec. 9,1694, »till remains, in the pos» 
*£ssioa of Wili-Iaji Staunton, Esq. of Longbridge, 




-^ 



B2 



12 REMARKABLE 



Martial Tournaments at Warwick forbidden. 



CHAP. II. 



Hemaritafile <®ttutttntt0. 

INTENDED Martial Tournaments at Warwick, in the Reign of Henry 
III. forbidden — a Bound Table held here in the Reign of Edward I. 
-—Decapitation of Gaveston on Blacklow Hill — Celebration of the Order 
of St. Michael at St. Marys — Death of the Marquis of Northampton 
et the Triory — Visit of Queen Elizabeth — of James I. — of William 
III. — The Castle beseiged during the Civil Wars—Battle near Southam 
—■the Castle relieved— Battle of Edge Hill. 



X O the short abstract, given in the preceding chapter, of 
the early history of Warwick, we subjoin the following 
notice of some remarkable events, connected with it. 

In the reign of Henry III. a numerous meeting 
of the Barons and others was intended to be held at 
Warwick, for the purpose of exercising themselves in 
martial tournaments a and other feats of arms. But this 
meeting, from an apprehension of danger to the public 
peace, was prohibited, by letters patent addressed to the 
Priors of Kenilworth, and to those of Si. Sepulchre's in 
Warwick. A similar meeting was again proposed, and 
again prohibited, in the bfth year of the same reign. 

In the reign of Edward 1. who was one of the 
most accomplished knights of his time, the spirit of 
chivalry revived, and those assemblies, called Round 
Tables, were not unfrequently convened.* One of these, || 

>« > ' . - — — ■ — - — — — - — 

* Henrt V. 38 r. H HiBt. Reg. p. 203v 



OCCURRENCES. 13 

1 , ■ 1 ■ .,...,., ■ ■ , 1 in.,,,,,,,, .i 1 ■ii..i. i m aggg— WM3— 

Round Tables — Gaveston beheaded at Black tow- HUt. 

according to Rous, was held with great splendour at 
Warwick) in the year 1281 ; when crowds of natives 
and foreigners flocked together, from all parts, to be 
present on the great occasion. That either this or ano- 
ther similar meeting was held here seems also probable, 
from the curious Compoti Roll\\ of the Collegiate Church, 
made in the 5th Edward IV. in which 20 shillings is 
accounted for " de Jirma cujusdam pastur' voc* le Rownde 
Table" It must be admitted, however, that a piece of 
ground might be called by the name of Round Table, 
without absolutely proving that an assembly of the kind 
in question was ever convened in that place. 

In the year 1312, Piers de Gaveston, the vain 
and haughty favourite of Edw. II. fell a victim to the 
envy and hatred, he had so vehemently and even justly ex- 
cited. Closely besieged by the Barons, in the Castle of 
Scarborough, whither he had fled for refuge, he was oblig- 
ed to capitulate, and surrendered himself into the hands 
of the Earl of Pembroke, on the faith of certain con- 
ditions which were afterwards, totally disregarded. From 
Scarborough, the unfortunate Gaveston was conveyed 
to Deddington Castle, near Banbury ; where, being pur- 
posely left in the custody of a feeble and faithless guard, 
he soon found himself assailed by Guy de Beauchamp, 
Earl of IVarwick, one of his most furious and implacable 
enemies. That nobleman, indeed, besides other causes 
of complaint in common with the rest of the Barons, 
had received a particular and personal affront, from the 
insolent favourite, who usually designated him, from his 



f| This ancient document is now in the possession of William Hamper, Esq. of 
Birmingham. It is beautifully written on paichraentj[2 ^ard» long and 12 inches wide. 



14 REMARKABLE 



Order of St. Michael, celebrated at St. Mary'i 



swarthy complexion, by the name of the u black dog of 
Arden" On the 17th of June, the Castle of Deddington 
was suddenly attacked: little or no resistance was at- 
tempted ; the miserable captive was seized and carried to 
Warwick Castle ; whither the Earls of Lancaster, Here- 
ford, and Arundel, the heads of the party leagued against 
him, instantly repaired. After some consultations, it was 
agreed to put their prisoner to death, as a public enemy, 
without the slightest regard to the faith of express agree- 
ment, or to the forms established by law. Accordingly 
on the first of July, the wretched Gaveston was conducted 
to Blacklow Hill, about a mile from Warwick-, and 
there, in the presence of his cruel and relentless foes, 
who beheld the horrid spectacle with savage delight, his 
head was severed from his body.* Cut in the rock, near 
the summit of the hill, are still to be seen his name, and 
the year of his death : but the inscription is evidently of 
much later date than the event it records. 

In the year 1566, the Order of St. Michael, 
instituted in France, was, by special favour of Charles 
XI. conferred on two English noblemen, who had been 
selected for this high honour, by Queen Elizabeth 
herself; and of these, as might have been expected, one was 
her great favourite, Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester. 
In the following year, this nobleman, resolved to gratify 
his piety or vanity by the celebration of that Order 
in the Collegiate Church of Warwick. On this occasion, 
the Bailiff and Burgesses were invited to attend the Earl : 
who, from the Priory, where at that time he lodged, 



* Dugdale's Bar. vol. ii. p. 44. Thomas's Dugdale's War w. p. 273. 

Hume vol. II. p. 336. Henry, vol. vii. p. 134, 6cc. 



OCCURRENCES. 15 

Death qf'W. Parr — Visit of Queen Elizabeth. 

went in grand procession, accompanied by a numerous 
train of noblemen, and a vast concourse of people, to the 
Church ; and here, with solemn pomp and stately shew, 
the intended ceremony was performed. A circumstantial 
account of this ceremony., of which some further notice 
will be taken hereafter,* is preserved in a curious manu- 
script, called The Black Book, written by an eye witness, 
which is still in the possession of the Corporation, 

Shortly after the conclusion of this splendid 
ceremony, at which he had assisted, died suddenly, at the 
Priory, William Parr, Marquis of Northampton, the 
brother of Catherine Parr, the last of the numerous 
Queens of Henry VIII. He was buried in the chancel 
©f Warwick Church \ and the account of his funeral 
forms the second article in The Black Booh. 

A third and a more interesting article is an 
account of the visit of Queen Elizabeth " in her 
highnesse's person," to the town, which took place on 
Monday, Aug. 12, 1572. Her Majesty had dined that 
day, at the house of Edward Fisher, at Long Itching ton; 
whence, on account of the bad state of the direct road, 
through Teachhroke and My ton, she was obliged to travel 
round by Chesterton and Oakhy ; and, at a place, called 
Four (I Myl Hill, she was met, in due form, by the Bailiff 
and principal Burgesses, attended by Edward Aglionby, 
the Recorder, Mr. Griffyn, Master of Leicester Hospital \ 
and others. About three o'clock, her Majesty arrived at 
the spot, attended by Lady Warwick in the same coach ; 
and, in other carriages, by all her great officers of state, 

* See the Account of llie Priory, 



16 remarkable: 



Itecorders spttcli to Queen Elizabeth. 



Lords Burleigh, Howard, and others, and by a long train 
of Lords and Ladies* The royal carriage then drew up 
as near as possible to the place, where the Bailiff and his 
company were all reverently kneeling, in their due order; 
the Bailiff first, behind him Mr. Griffyn, next the Re- 
corder, and then the twelve principal Burgesses. After 
a respectful pause, the Recorder began his oration, which, 
though he promised to be " short of speche," he was 
himself obliged at last to confess a cc lardge one." It 
opened with a learned allusion to the ancient Grecian and 
Roman panegyrical ; on which, however, he unintention- 
ally passes the severest censure, by observing that they 
were all alike commendatory, whether addressed to good or 
bad princes. He then speaks of the lofty stile proper for 
an address to a royal personage • and modestly excuses his 
own inability for the task assigned him. " The very 
lookes," he says, of such exalted persons as Alexander 
•the Great, Caius Marius, Octavius Caesar, " the wise 
King Henry VII." " the valiant King Henry VIIL" 
and finally, of her excellent Majesty, then present, must 
" appal the stout corages of their beholders." He 
hopes, therefore, to be excused, if he should be put 
" bothe out of countenance and out of remembrance.*' 
He then speaks of the " commendation, " that might 
be justly conferred on her highness herself, on the " rare 
vertues of her mynde," on the ce wealth of her domy- 
nyons," on the prosperous achievement of her noble 
affaires," — not forgetting that flattery, which, he knew, 
wonld most of all please,— on u the divyne giftes of her 
roial person." But these fruitful topics he declines, for 
fear of saying more than her " modest eares could abide." 
He then shortly details the history of " this towne of 
Warwik) " from early to later times, closing with an 



OCCURRENCES. 1 7 

Answer of the Queen to the Recorder. 

acknowledgment of its great obligations to her grand- 
father, her father, her sister, and most of all, to herself. 
He next bestows high and just praises upon Ambrose, 
the good Earl of Warwick ; and praises, also, equally 
high, though not surely equally just, upon his detestable 
brother of Leicester; whose numerous and horrible 
crimes seem to have been totally lost to the view of that 
age, amidst the blaze of brightness, which his own splen- 
did charities, and the dazzling beams of royal favor threw 
around him. He then expresses his rejoicing, and that 
of the whole people of Warwick, u for that it has pleas- 
ed her to blesse them with her comfortable presence;" 
and concludes with offering a small present to her Ma- 
jesty, which he humbly hopes, she would condescend to 
receive, as Alexander was pleased " to accept a hand- 
full of water from a poore soldier of his," — finally, wishing 
her " a long and a prosperous reign, even to Nestor's 
years, if it so please God!" 

After this long oration, Robart Phillippes, ris- 
ing from his knees, approached the royal carnage : when, 
again bending in the same humble posture, he tendered 
to the Queen a purse, "very fairre wrought" containing 
twenty pounds, "all in souereignes"; which, alter some 
affected scruples, was condescendingly accepted, and the 
Bailiff had the honor of kissing her Majesty's hand. Mr. 
Aglionby had also the same honor ; to whom the Queen 
thus familiarly expressed herself: "Come hither, little 
Recorder; it was told me that youe wold be afraid to look 
upon me, or to speake boldly ; but you were not so fraid 
of me, as I was of youe, and I now thank you for putting 
me in mynde of my duety". Her Majesty next offered 
her grateful acknowledgments to the Burgesses, and 

c 



18 REMARKABLE 

Baggage ! i .. . i mi l i n u i ji - i-i j i j i i n- ..' . ■ : i i 

Royal Procession to Warwick Castle. 

all the company present, and then expressed her wish to 
proceed. But further honors still awaited her ; Mr. Grif* 
fvn, the preacher, humhly advancing, craved permission, 
on his bended knees, to offer to her majesty a copy of Latin 
verses * which he had composed expressly for the occasion ; 
and which were, also, graciously received, though the Queen 
declined reading them at that time ; if, indeed, she ever 
did at all, as, froni the story, appears doubtful. 

The command was now given, and the whole 
procession moved forwards, in the following order. First 
the Bailiffs attendants led the way, 32 in number, 
dressed " in coates of puke " i. e. grey, " laid on with 
lace;" then, the 12 principal burgesses , "in gowns of 
puke, lyned with satten and damask, upon foote clothes ;* 
then, two Bishops followed; next the Lords of the Courts 
$il; and immediately before the Queens coach, were the 
Bailiff, arrayed in scarlet, on the right, and Lord Comp- 
ton, as Sheriff of the county, on the left. 

With this state, was her Majesty conducted to the 
Castle, where she continued the remaining part of Monday, 
and the whole of Tuesday. On Wednesday, she went, with- 
out her train of attendants, taking the road through the 
Priory grounds and the Wbodloes, to Kenilworth Castle, 
where she was sumptuously entertained by the Earl of 
Leicester, till Saturday. || On the evening of that day, 
she returned to Warwick Castle: and, on the following 
Sunday, dancing was exhibited for her amusement, in the 
afternoon ; and, in the evening, fire works. These last, 
which consisted principally of a sort of an attack upon two 



They may be seen in Bib. Top. Brit. No. xvir. 

This was three years before Iter far-famed entertainment there. 



OCCURRENCES. 19 

f ■ ■ 

Visit of James 1. and William III. to Warwick. 

SSSmS m ■ '■ ■ ... 

temporary wooden forts, were attended with some serious 
accidents. A ball of fire fell on a cottage near the Bridge 
End, which was instantly reduced to ashes ; and its in- 
habitants, a poor old man and woman, were with difficulty 
saved. Two or three cottages adjoining were also des- 
troyed; and, by a similar accident, four houses in the 
town were burnt down. The next day, the Queen very 
graciously sent for the two poor aged sufferers into her 
presence ; and made them all the reparation which kind 
words, and a present amounting to about 25 ^£* could do. 
Whether the other sufferers, in consequence of these royal 
sports, received any recompence for the injuries they had 
sustained, does not appear. The ensuing week the Queen 
spent at Kenilworth, in the company of her favorite ; and 
on Saturday, returned by Charlecott, to London.* 

On the 4th of September, 1617, it appears that 
King James I. honored this town with his presence, and 
Sir Fulk Greville, then Chancellor of the Exchequer* 
with his company; by whom a magnificent entertainment 
was given in the hall of Lord Leicester's Hospital. An 
inscription, recording the event, is still to be seen in that 
halL But of this royal visit no further account has been 
discovered. 

In connection with this, though somewhat out of 
chronological order, we shall mention the honor of another 
royal visit which Warwick received from Will. III. in the 
month of November, 1695. It was then the eve of a 
general election, and by the advice of his ministers, in order 
to recommend himself to popular favor, of which that 



See " Q. Eliz. Progresses," by Nichols, 

C2 



20 REMARKABLE 



great and glorious monarch never enjoyed a share equal to 
his extraordinary merits, he was induced to set out on a 
tour, through the country ; and to visit the seats of some 
of the principal nobility. After having witnessed the di- 
versions of Newmarket^ he honored with his company the 
Earls of Sunderland, Northampton and Montague ; and 
afterwards went to Wetbeck, the seat of the Duke of 
Newcastle, Thence he proceeded to Warwick ; and took 
up his residence at the Castle, which was at that time 
the seat of Fulk Lord Brooke, posthumous son of the 
accomplished and patriotic Robert Lord Brooke, who was 
killed at the siege of Liclifield. From Warwick, the king 
proceeded to Eye Fort, the seat of the Duke of Shrews- 
bury ; and, after having visited the university of Oxford, 
returned to London.* 

During the unhappy contest between Charles I. 
and his Parliament, Warwick Castle was regarded as a for- 
tress of great importance, both from its own strength, and 
from the situation of it, in the centre of the kingdom. Its 
noble proprietor, Robert Greville, Lord Brooke, was one 
of the most active and zealous supporters, on the side of the 
Parliament and the people : and, by his powerful influence, 
he carried with him, to the same side, almost the whole of 
the county. In the months of June and July, 1642, under 
the authority of a parliamentary commission, he assembled 
the militia of Warwickshire and Staffordshire: and, as 
his presence was necessary in London, for the purpose of 
procuring arms and ammunition, he left Sir Edward Peto, 
of Chesterton, governor of the Castle, in his absence. 



f Smollett, vol. i. p. 366, 



OCCURRENCES. 21 

Skirmish, near Southam — Warwick Castle besieged. 

Returning from the metropolis with a train of artillery, 
he was met, at Edgehill, by the Earl of Northampton, 
at the head of a considerable force. Both parties prepared 
for action ; but, to prevent the effusion of blood, it was 
at length agreed that Lord Brooke should retire to Ban- 
hury with his artillery, and that neither party should 
attempt to remove it thence, without the previous notice 
of three days. On the faith of this agreement, Lord 
Brooke went again to London, when instantly the Castle 
of Banbury was surprized by the Earl of Northampton, 
and the artillery carried off. The Earl then advanced to 
Warwick ; and immediately summoned the governor of 
the Castle to surrender. On his refusal, the siege began 1 * 
Aug. 7* an d was continued till Aug. 23, when Lord 
Brooke marched once more from London, at the head of 
a powerful body : and, between Southam and Ichington, 
within 5 miles of Warwick, found himself once more op- 
posed by the Earl of Northampton. A skirmish ensued, 
which terminated to the advantage of Lord Brooke. The 
Earl of Northampton retired towards the north ; the siege 
of the Castle was raised ; and Lord Brooke entered it, to 
the great joy of the garrison, who, with slender provision, 
had defended the place for a whole fortnight. The hooks, 
upon which wool sacks were suspended, as a means of 
protecting the walls, during this siege, are still to be seen 
over the principal gateway of the Castle. 

About the end of September, in the same year, 
when Lord Brooke w r as still at the Castle, the Earl of 



* A curious account of this brave defence of Warwick Castle by Sir Edwa rd Peto, 
is contained in a small tract printed in 1642, entitled •* True and new Newes from War. 
wick Castle, with a True Relation of Sir Edwakd Pbto's bunging out bis winding sheet 
and the Bill- in hh Colours at Warwick Castle-" 



22 REMARKABLE 



=£ 



Battle of Edge Hill. 



Essex arrived, at the head of the parliamentary troops ; 
and the two commanders immediately advanced, with their 
united forces, into Worcestershire, in quest of the royal 
army ; which, however, had turned aside towards Shrews* 
bury, and was then making its way from that town into 
Warwickshire. The Earl of Essex prepared to follow it ; 
whilst Lord Brooke hastened back to Warwick, to forward 
Some supplies that were necessary. He arrived, accord- 
ingly, at the Castle, Oct. 22 ; and, on the following day, 
sent from its magazines several cart-loads of arms and 
ammunition to the army ; which, in the mean time, had 
followed the royal forces as far as Kineton, two miles from 
Edgehills* 

On that day, Sunday, Oct. 23, 1642, was fought, 
in a vale at the foot of those hills, the first pitched battle 
between the forces of the King and those of the Parlia- 
ment. Whilst resting with his army at Egeat, a village 
on the borders of Northamptonshire, in the middle of the 
preceding night, intelligence from Prince Rupert had been 
received by the king, that the enemy's forces were within 
a few miles ; and it was in consequence immediately re- 
solved to give them battle the next day.§ But so little 
prepared was either party for the encounter, that it was 
not till 3 o'clock in the afternoon that the battle began. 
After an equal display of courage, attended with various 
success on both sides, the night separated the combatants. 
The following day neither party discovered any inclination 
to renew the contest; and, towards the evening, both 
retired from the field. 



* Clakendon's Hist, of the Rebellion, vol. ii. p. 44. 
§ Edmonson's Account oi the Grerille Family, p, 9J. 



OCCURRENCES. 23 



Ketreat of the Purliamcnt Army to Warwick. 

In the early part of this battle, Lord Brooke was not 
present. Setting out from Warwick, on the very day on 
which it was fought, the first intelligence he received of 
it, was on the road, from the crowds, who had been put 
to flight by the charge of the king's horse. Upon many 
he prevailed to return ; and, proceeding with all possible 
expedition, he arrived time enough to render considera- 
ble assistance to his party. In the evening of the fol- 
lowing day, Lords Essex and Brooke marched with their 
whole army towards Warwick ; where they remained 
some time, to refresh themselves, and to prepare for new 
encounters. 

These appear to be the principal events, in which the 
history of the Civil War connects itself with that of the 
Town and Castle of Warwick. 




24 HISTORY OF THE 



Rohand — Guy — Reynburn, fyc. 



CHAP. III. 



i^igtorp of tf>c €arl£ of 3©artokft* 

Saxon Earls— Rohand— Guy— Reynburn — Wogeat — Ufa — Wolgeat — Wigod — 
Alwine—Tur chill — De Newburgs — Henry — Roger — William — Wale- 
ran — Henry — Thomas — John de Plessites — William Manduit — Beau- 
champs — William — Guy — Thomas — Thomas — Richard — Henry — Ne- 
ville — Richard — Plantagenets — George- — Edward — Dudleys— John 
— Ambrose — Rich — Robert — Robert — Robert — Charles — Robert — lid- 
ward — Edward Henry — Grevilles — Fulk — Robert — Francis — Robert 
— jPm Ik — Fulk — William — Fra ncis — G eorge. 



XN connection with the history of Warwick Castle, which 
forms of course a leading object in the present work, it 
will be proper to give some brief notices of its noble pos- 
sessors : and this is what we shall now attempt, beginning 
with the earliest, and proceeding to the latest times. 

I. €%&$ of t$e d&axon Ulace* 

Of the reputed Earls of the Saxon race, little is 
related, worthy of credit. The first whose name is re- 
corded is Rohand, a successful warrior, in the days of 
Alfred. His only daughter was Felicia, married, as 
the story tells, to the famous Guy, who, in her right, 
became Earl of Warwick. 

This renowned champion is said to have been the 
son of Siward, Baron of JVallingford, Yet the Welch 



EARLS OF WARWICK. 25 

Guy's Combat with the Danish Champion* 

claim the honor of numbering him, amongst their own 
heroes of British extraction. According to vulgar belief, 
he was of gigantic height, exceeding nine feet. Amongst 
other instances of his prowess, it is related that he slew a 
Saracen giant, in single combat; and killed, with his 
own arm, a wild boar, a dun cow of enormous size, and 
even a green dragon. * Some very old histories of Guy 
speak of the dragon, but omit the circumstance of colour. 

The Saracen Giant, above mentioned, was Col- 
i*rand, chosen by the Danish invaders as their champion 
to decide the contest between them and the English, ac- 
cording to the proposal made to Athelstan, the Saxon 
monarch, and accepted by him. The celebrated Gu\ ? 
returning from a pilgrimage to the Holy Land, at that 
instant, arrived in England. Pointed out to the king, it 
is said, by an angel in a dream, as the chosen hero of 
England, tho' disguised in the habit of a pilgrim, he was 
entreated to accept the challenge, and finally consented* 
On the day of battle, the two champions appeared, fully 
accoutred, in the appointed field, near Winchester. Col- 
brand was so heavily armed, that his horse could scarcely 
support his weight. Soon after the first encounter, the 
giant cut off the head of Guy's horse. But, in a fresh 
attack, as Colbrand was stooping to take up his sword, 
of which he had lost hold, Guy seized the favorable 
opportunity, and, with one mighty blow, struck off his 
right hand. Yet the giant continued to fight with the 
other hand till, in the evening, faint with the loss of 
blood, he was obliged to yield ; and the English hero was 



* See the Legend of Guy E. of Warwick.— Sro alio in Dodslei's Rcliquts nf 
Ancient I»g, Poetry, ** A Pleasant Song of the valiant Deed* of Sir Guj of Warwick/* 

D 



26 HISTORY OF THE 

Guys Armour preserved — Truth of his Story disputed. 

■ =^=^ i i — — ■ .,, 

declared victorious. After the battle, Guy first made 
himself known, under an oath of secrecy, to the Saxon 
monarch; and then retired to Guys Cliff, near Warwick; 
where he lived the life of a hermit, without discovering 
himself even to his wife Felicia, who resided at the Castle, 
till near his death, which happened in 929, 

Colbrand's battle axe was formerly preserved in 
Winchester Cathedral. Guy's armour, so called, still 
remains ; and is to be seen, as well as the vertebrae of thQ 
Wild Boar, and the ribs of the Dun Cow, in the PorterV 
Lodge, at the entrance of Warwick Castle — as will be 
distinctly noticed hereafter. One of the rooms of the 
castle was formerly adorned with arras, in which the 
story of the battle was represented. This suit of arras, 
together with the armour of the great champion, was, for 
many generations, bequeathed, as an heir-loom, in the 
family of the Beauchamps, and other Earls of Warwick; 
and in the reign of Henry VIII, the custody of the 
sword was granted by patent to William Hoggeson, yeo- 
man of the buttery, with a salary of 2d. per day. 

The story of Guy, as above recited, is received as 
true by several authors of high celebrity, as Rous, Leland, 
Camden, Heylin, and Dugdale ;* yet, it must now be 
added, that many great and weighty, even insurmountable 
objections, have been opposed to its credibility, particularly 
in a memoir by Dr. Pegge, read to the Society of Anti- 
quaries, May 7? 17°Yj to which we must refer the curious 
reader. § Upon the whole, that there was a renowned 
warrior, of the name of Guy, of large size and great 



* Lei. ltin. iv. 63— Camd. Brit. Col. 143. Heyltn's History of St. George, p. 65. 
Pugpalb, p. 183, § Biblioth. Togopr. Britan. No. xviu 



EARLS OF WARWICK. if 

Successors of Guy — Origin of " the Bear and Ragged Staff'* 

prowess, living in the Saxon times, the fair and reasonable 
enquirer will, probably, not be disposed to deny ; but 
that he was Earl of Warwick^ he will hesitate to admit ; 
and the account of his combat with the Danish Giant, 
and most of the other wonderful accounts related of him, 
he will certainly reject, with decided conviction, as the 
tales of monkish delusion or imposture. 

Of the reputed successors of Guy, in the Earldom 
of Warwick, (if he ever attained that dignity,) so little is 
known, that a bare enumeration of their names may here be 
thought sufficient. The first is said to have been Reyn- 
burn, in the reign of Athelstan ; the second Wegeat, 
in that of Edgar ; the third Ufa, in that of Edward the 
Martyr ; the fourth Wolge at, in that of Ethelred ; the 
fifth Wigod, in that of Edmund ; the sixth Alwyne, in 
that of Edward the Confessor; and the last, Turchill, 
of whom some notice has already been taken.* 

We shall only subjoin, here, the account, which 
Rous has given, of the origin of the device, a bear and 
ragged staff, adopted by the Earls of Warwick, as ensigns 
of their dignity, from the earliest periods. The former, 
he says, was taken from the name of one of the British 
Earls of Warwick, Arthal, which signifies in the British 
language a Bear: and, when another British Earl, named 
Morvi, had vanquished a giant in a duel, with a young 
tree plucked up by the roots, and stripped of its branches, 
in token of that event, to the bear was added the ragged 
staff. This badge of distinction, adopted by many of the 
successive families, was re-assumed by the first of the 
present Earls, Francis Greville, in the year 1760. 



iee page 6. 

D2 



28 HISTORY OF THE 

1 sag 

Henry — Roger — William — Waleran de Newburg. 

-■'--,■■ " ' w . 

II. f mmlp of t$e $eto6ut0&* 

Henry de Newburg was the first Earl of Norman 
extraction. With that dignity, he received from the 
Congiueror the Castle, the Manor, and the Royalty of the 
Borough, then vested in the Crown. It was by him that 
Wedgnock Park was begun, and the Priory founded. He- 
died 1123* 

Roger de Newburg, his eldest son and successor, 
was one of the witnesses to the laws of St. Stephen, and 
one of the supporters of Maude, against that King. By 
him the Priory was completed, and St* Marys made a 
Collegiate Church. By him, also, the Hospital of St. 
Michael, for Lepers, in the Salsford, and the House of the 
Templars, ne^v the Bridge, were founded. He was greatly 
distinguished by his piety, displayed, according to the pre- 
vailing notions of the times, in large donations to religious 
houses, and frequent visits to the Holy Land. He died* 
happy in the high reputation he had acquired and de- 
served, 1153. 

William de Newburg, his eldest son, was the 
third EarL He founded two Hospitals in Warwick, St- 
JohfLS and St. Thomas* ; and built and endowed a Church 
for the Templars. He died Ajz the Holy Land, 1184. 

Waleran de Newburg, brother of William, 
was the fourth Earl. He died 1205. 

Henry de Newburg, his eldest son, the fifth 



* Iu sketching these short biographical notices, great use has been made of 
Edmonsoh's " Account of the Greville Family;" to which work recourse may be 
had by those, who wish for more particular accounts, or for references to the proper; 
authorities. 



EARLS OF WARWICK. 29 

Henry — Thomas de Newburg — John de Plessetis — William Mauduit. 

Earl, was attached to the part of King John in all his 
contests with the Barons. He died 1229. 

Thomas de Newburg, sixth Earl, died without 
issue, 1242, leaving Margery, his sister, heir to the 
Earldom, who was married to John de Plessetis, a 
Norman, and the distinguished favorite of Henry III. 

John de Plessetis took upon himself the title 
of Earl of Warwick, in right of his wife ; and afterwards 
received from the King, the title of Comes Warwici. He 
died 1262, without issue. His Countess was beneficent; 
and among other acts of charity, bestowed upon the poor 
of Warwick, a Common Pasture, called Clay Pits, on the 
west side of the Town. 

William Mauduit, grandson of Waleran, by 
his daughter Alice, succeeded as the next heir to the 
Earklom. He was one of the adherents of Henry III. in 
his wars with the Barons ; and was surprized in his Castle 
at Warwick, by John Giffard, Governor of Kenilworth 
Castle, The walls of his Castle were destroyed from 
tower to tower; himself and his Countess were carried 
prisoners to Kenilworth ; and he was obliged to pay 
for his ransom 1900 marks. He died without issue 
1267 ; leaving as heiress, Isabel, his sister, who was 
married to William de Beauchamp, Baron of Elmley, 
in Worcestershire. 

III. jfamilp of tf)e 25eaucl)amp£* 

At the time of the conquest, the Beauchamps were 
considered as one of the principal Norman Families. They 
received from their royal master, on his advancement to the 



30 HISTORY OF THE 

'■ " f ! ■■ ' " \ 

William — Guy — Thomas de Beauchamp. 

English Throne, great addition of power and possession ; 
and still greater accrued to them from the marriage of 
William, one of the family, to Isabel, in her own right 
Countess of Warwick. It appears, however, that Isabel 
had previously taken the monastic vow ; and that neither 
she, /nor her husband, according to the custom of the 
times, assumed the dignity to which they were entitled. 

William de Beauchamp, their eldest son, there- 
fore, even in the lifetime of his parents, received the title 
of Earl of Warwick. He was greatly distinguished by 
the eminent services, which he rendered to his country, 
in various civil and military employments, for 26 years, 
in the reign of Edward I. He died 1298, and was buried 
in the Chapel of Worcester Cathedral, where his tomb still 
remains. 

Guy de Beauchamp, his eldest son, succeeded 
to the Earldom. At the battle of Falkirk he obtained 
high distinction, and received, for his reward, by royal 
grant, large possessions in Scotland. It was this Earl 
who seized the person of Gaveston, the royal favourite, 
and caused him to be beheaded on Blacklow Hill. Though 
he afterwards obtained the King's pardon, he was never 
again received into favor. He died, as some say, by 
poison, 1315. 

Thomas de Beauchamp, his eldest son, besides 
other high and important offices, was created Sheriff of 
Warwickshire 8$ Leicestershire for life, and Earl Marshal 
of England. He attended the king in his Scottish and 
French wars ; and was one of the commanders under the 
Black Prince, who led the van of the English army in the 



EARLS OF WARWICK. 31 

The second Thomas de Beaucfutmp. 

celebrated battle of Cressy ; and greatly distinguished 
himself, also, in the equally celebrated battle of Poictiers. 
He afterwards attended Prince Edward, in an expedi- 
tion against the Infidels to the Holy Land. His ardor, 
however, for military achievements abroad, did not pre- 
vent his attention to the welfare of his own country, 
and particularly to the improvement of his paternal abode 
and his native town. He rebuilt the Avails of the Castle, 
which in Earl Maiidaifs time had been demolished ; 
added strong gates ; and fortified the entrance, with em- 
battled towers. He founded, also, the choir of the Col- 
legiate Church; built a Booth Hall, in the Market-place; 
and made the town toll-free. His last exploit was; an ex- 
pedition for the relief of the English army, reduced to the 
greatest difficulties before Calais ; in which, he completely 
succeeded. But here his career of glory was suddenly 
arrested ; and, by a fever, he was brought to the grave, 
1370. His body was conveyed to his native town, and 
buried in the middle of the choir of St. Mary's, where 
his tomb still remains, with his effigy and that of his 
countess, who died before him, admirably executed in 
white marble. He had seven sons, and ten daughters, 
whose port? aits were formerly to be seen in the windows on 
the south side of the chancel of the same church ; but 
they have long since disappeared. 

Thomas de Beauchamp, the second son, in conse- 
quence of the previous death of his elder brother, Guy, 
succeeded as heir to the earldom. He was appointed by the 
Parliament, governor to Richard II. during his minority : 
and was ever after highly and honorably distinguished by a 
firm opposition to the unjust and impolitic measures of his 
unworthy favorites. Dismissed, with the rest of his great 



32 HISTORY OF THE 

The second Thomas — Richard de Beauchamp. 

* - : . sassssaasssBir 

officers, from the court, when the young king assumed the 
government, the Earl of Warwick retired to his Castle ; 
where he spent some years, occupied in building and other 
improvements, suited to the extent of his fortune and the 
liberality of his spirit. By him, the noble tower at the 
north-east corner was built, and called, in honor of the 
Saxon hero, Guy's Tower, By him, also, the body of St. 
Marys Church, in 1314, was completed. But though 
peaceful and retired, occupied only in works of public 
utility ; he was still an object of resentment to the king. 
The misguided monarch had already effected the death of 
his uncle, the Duke of Gloucester ; and he now formed 
designs against the life of his late Governor. Invited to 
a royal feast, his person was seized ; and, by a servile 
parliament, sentence of death was pronounced upon him. 
At the solicitation of the Earl of Salisbury, the sentence 
was afterwards changed, to that of forfeiture of title and 
estate, and banishment to the Isle of Man. Thence, 
however, he was soon brought to London, and committed 
a close prisoner to the Tower ; where he remained till the 
Revolution, which placed Henry IV. upon the throne, 
happily restored him to his liberty, and to all his lost rights. 
He died 1401, and was buried with his countess, in the 
south part of St. Mary's Church. Their monument was 
destroyed by the great fire ; but their portraits, engraven on 
a brass plate, were recovered, and placed against the wall 
near the same spot. 

Richard de Beauchamp, the only son and suc- 
cessor of the late Earl, was one of the most considerable 
personages of the age, in which he lived. He was made 
Knight of the Bath, at the coronation of Henry IV ; 
and was engaged in almost all the principal transactions 



EARLS OF WARWICK. 



Henry de Beauchamp, Duke of Warwick, King of the Isle of Wight. 

of his reign. In 1408, he visited the Holy Sepulchre, 
followed by a splendid retinue. Besides other honours, 
he was created Earl of Albemarle, expressly as a reconi- 
pence for his bravery at the sieges of Caen, Rouen, and 
other places. In 1418, he successfully negociated a 
treaty of marriage, between Henry V. and Catherine 
daughter of Charles VI. By the will of that prince, he 
was appointed governor to his infant son, Henry VI. ; 
and, on the death of the Duke of Bedford, was called to 
succeed him as Regent of France. He died at the Castle 
of Rouen, 1439 ; and, according to his directions, his body 
Avas brought over to England in a stone coffin, and placed 
before the altar in St. Marys Chancel; till the chapel, 
began by himself, should be completed, to which his re- 
mains were then to be removed, and where a stately 
monument was to be erected to his memory. All this 
was done by his executors ; and the monument, finely 
executed, is still in good preservation. Amongst other 
acts of liberality, this nobleman rebuilt the Chapel of St. 
Mary Magdalene at Guy's Cliff ; established a Chantry 
there ; and erected the statue of the famous Guy, which 
still remains. 

Henry de Beauchamp, the eldest son of Richard, 
at the age of 14, became Earl of Warwick; and soon 
obtained the highest place in the favor of the reigning 
monarch ; who heaped upon him, with lavish hand, all 
the honors which royalty had to bestow. He was first 
created premier Earl of England ; then Duke of War- 
wick ; and, finally, with unheard-of extravagance, was 
declared and crowned King of the Isle of Wight. But 
all his honours could not secure him from an early grave. 
He died 1445^ at the age of 22, in his Castle of Hanky, 

E 



34 HISTORY OF THE 

i. ' i v. 

Richard Neville, the Stout Earl of Warwick. 

1 i ■ r 

Worcestershire : and was buried in the Abbey Church of 
Tewkesbury, near the tomb of Edward, son and heir of 
Henry VI. He married Cicely, daughter of Richard 
Neville, Earl of Salisbury. By her he had only one 
daughter, who died in her infancy; and thus her aunt 
Ann became the heir to the Earldom, and the great inhe- 
ritance of the family. 

IV. f mtrilp of $etriHe* 

Richard Neville, Earl of Salisbury, grandson 
©f Ralph Earl of Westmoreland, and Joan daughter of 
John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, married Ann, sister 
to the late Duke Henry ; and, in right of his wife, 
assumed the title of Earl of Warwick, which was after r 
wards confirmed by letters patent. He is known, in Eng- 
lish history, by the name of the i( Stout Earl, or the 
King Maker." " He was the greatest, as well as the 
last," says Hume, u of those mighty Barons, who formerly 
06 over-awed the Crown, and rendered the people inca- 
" pable of any regular system of government ."* In the 
beginning of the dispute between the houses of York and 
Lancaster, he took the side of the former ; and was the 
means of placing the Earl of March upon the throne, 
with the title of Edward IV. Constantly engaged in all 
the violent contests and intestine wars of these unhappy 
times; at length, April 14, 147.1, he was slain, in the 
battle of Barnet, fighting at the head of his soldiers, in 
favor of Henry VI. whom, a few years before, he had 
dethroned. He was buried with his ancestors at Bisham, 
Berks. He left two daughters, his only issue : Isabel 
married to George Duke of Clarence ; and Ann married, 



Humk ▼. iii. p. 182. 



EARLS OF WARWICK. 35 



George Plantagenet — Edaard tlantagenet. 



first to Edward Prince of Wales, and next to Richard 
Duke of Gloucester, afterwards King Richard III. His 
Countess, who survived him many years, being despoiled 
of all her estates, lived and died in the greatest privacy 
and distress. Once, indeed, for a moment, she was re- 
called from her obscurity, and re-instated in the possession 
of her family inheritances. But this was only for the 
cruel purpose of making her the instrument of transferring, 
with some shew of legal form, the whole of her immense 
estates to the Crown ; which was accordingly done, by 
special deed, in the 3d of Henry VII. 

V. 3famtfp of plantagenet 

George Plantagenet, Duke of Clarence, in con- 
sequence of his marriage with Isabel, eldest daughter of 
Richard Neville, was created Earl of Warwick, by 
his brother Edward IV. His chief residence was at 
Warwick Castle. Here he projected vast plans of enlarging 
and improving both the town and the castle, some part of 
which he accomplished ; the rest was prevented by his 
death. Having incurred the suspicion of his brother, 
he was sent to the Tower ; attainted by the Parliament of 
high treason , and, according to his own strange choice of 
the mode of death, was drowned in a butt of malmsey.* 
He was buried near his dutchess, who died of poison, not 
long before. 

Edward Plantagenet, son of George, succeeded 
to the Earldom of Warwick. Unfortunate almost from 



* So the story of his death is to!d by Humi, Rapin, and most of tho modern 
Hiitoriani. But the account »er mi to depend chiefly, if not entirely, on tha evidence of 
Fabias; who lived, indeed, at the time, but was then very young. The other coa- 
teoipoiary Historiam say only that he was privately exqputed in the Tower. 

E 2 



36 HISTORY OF THE 

""r— jM . - ,. .. '-j ■ t mm 

John Dudley — Ambrose Dudley. 

his birth, he was nursed* and lived the greatest part of his 
short life, in a prison. During the reign of his uncle 
Rich. III. he was confined at the castle of Sheriff Hutton, 
\\\ Yorkshire ; and after the death of that prince, in the 
Field of Bosworth, he was removed by Henry VII. to the 
Tower of London. Here, his sufferings were of no long 
duration. He was accused, upon the most frivolous pre- 
tences, of entering into the conspiracy of Perkin War- 
beck ; and* in the 25th year of his age, was beheaded on 
Tower-hill, 1499, After his death, the title of Earl of 
Warwick lay dormant, 48 years. 

VI. f amilp of 2DitfcIep* 

John Dudley, Lord Viscount Lisle, was a des- 
cendant of the eldest daughter of Richard Reauchamp, 
Earl of Warwick, His father, for his oppressions and 
extortions, had suffered decapitation, in the reign of Hen. 
VIII. The son was, however, soon afterwards restored 
in blood ; created, first, Lord Viscount Lisle ; then Earl 
of Warwick ; and, finally, raised to the dignity of Duke 
of Northumberland. Rut, after the death of his royal 
master, Henry VIII. failing in an attempt to elevate 
to the throne, Lady Jane Grey, wife of his son, Lord 
Guildford Dudley, he was beheaded 22d August, 1553. 

Ambrose Dudley, son of John, who had been 
restored in blood, was in 1557, created Viscount Lisle, 
and Earl of Warwick ; and at the same time, obtained 
a grant of the castle, manor, and borough of Warwick, 
together with other estates, which, in consequence of his 
father's attainder, had escheated to the Crown. He died 
in 1589^; and was buried in the Beauchamp Chapel, 
where a noble monument, erected to his memory, still 



EARLS OF WARWICK. 37 

Robert — Robert— Robert Rich. 

1 

remains, in excellent preservation. He married three 
wives; but left no issue ; and thus the title became a 
second time extinct. One title, however, belongs, by 
universal consent, to this nobleman, which, if justly 
bestowed, must for ever remain; and which, if men were 
truly wise, would always be regarded as the highest and 
most enviable of all — that of the Good Earl of Warwick. 

VII. familpofiSicft. 

Robert Lord Rich, was the first of this family, 
who, in the year l6l8, by the favor of James I. received 
the title of Earl of Warwick. But he did not long 
enjoy his new dignity ; within only a few months after 
his elevation to it, he died. 

Robert, his eldest son, succeeded him. He was 
created Lord High Admiral of England ; but, though 
not destitute of abilities, he displayed little knowledge of 
naval affairs. He was a man of sprightly gaiety, of varied 
and pleasing conversation; and possessed, in a high degree, 
the charms of agreeable and fascinating manners. Under 
much affected piety, he endeavoured to conceal still more 
real profligacy ; and though he was considered in that 
age, as the head of the godly party, his real place, it is 
feared, must be fixed amongst the irreligious and the licen- 
tious. He died, l658. 

Robert, his eldest son, who became the next 
Earl, enjoyed his title and honors only one year ; and 
died, without male issue, 1659. 

Charles, his brother, as next heir, succeeded to 
the earldom. His only son was married to Frances, 



38 HISTORY OF THE 

Robert — Edward — Edward Henry Rich — Fulk Greville. 

youngest daughter of Oliver, Lord Protector : but died 
before his father. 

Robert, Edrl of Holland, cousin of Charles, 
was the next Earl. He died 1689. 

Edward, his son, succeeded to the title and honors 
of Earl of Warwick and Holland, and died 1701. 

Edward Henry, the last of the Earls of this 
family, dying without issue, 17^9, the title of Earl of 
Warwick, became a third time extinct. 

VIII. familp of tf>e 45wtifle& 

Of the families, which sprung from that of the 
Beauchamps, the ancient Earls of Warwick, all of which 
either are now extinct or have transferred, by heiresses, 
their estates and honors to other families, few have been 
more considerable than that of Alcester and Powyke ; 
from an heiress of which, the present family of the 
Grevilles are descended. 

Sir Fulk Greville, the first of the family who 
was ennobled by the title of Lord Brooke, was born 
1554. Of the same age with his cousin, the highly- 
distinguished Sir Philip Sidney, they were educated 
together, at a school in Shrewsbury. Fulk Greville, 
thence removed to Oxford ; and, soon afterwards, to 
Cambridge. He then travelled abroad, for some years ; 
and, at length, returned home, the well informed and 
greatly accomplished gentleman. Introduced by his uncle, 
Robert Greville, at the Court of Queen Elizabeth. 



EARLS OF WARWICK. 39 

Fulk Greville, first Lord Brooke. 

he was soon regarded as a person of extraordinary 
merit ; and was successively advanced to several high and 
honorable employments. Himself a man of letters,* and 
a lover of the arts, he diligently cultivated the acquaint- 
ance of most of the learned men and ingenious artists of 
his time. But he especially devoted himself, with fervent 
admiration, and fond aifection to his cousin, Sir Philip 
Sidney ; whose intimate associate he was, from his earliest 
years. After his death, he endeavoured to perpetuate the 
memory of their mutual esteem and attachment, by writ- 
ing his life, which was printed in l652 ; and, on his own 
tomb, by his own direction, it was recorded that he 
regarded the friendship of that great and excellent man, 
as the chief honor and happiness of his life. In l6oi ? 
he obtained from Queen Elizabeth, the grant of Wedge- 
nock Park; and, from her successor, James I. that of 
Warwick Castle, and its immediate dependencies. The 
castle, he found in a ruinous condition. Its towers and 
strong holds were employed as the common gaol of the 
county. But at the expence of upwards of ^20,000. he 
repaired and adorned it ; and made it tbe seat of his 
family. He also purchased the adjoining grounds, and 
formed in it stately and extensive plantations. — Though 
in his own right, he possessed the claim to nobility, as 
the heir of Robert Willoughby, Lord Brooke; yet, to 
remove all ground of dispute, he accepted letters patent, 
in the reign of James I. by which he was advanced to the 
dignity of a Baron, with the title of Lord Brooke, Baron 
Brooke, of Beauchamp Court, in the county of Warwick. 
— But a life of honor and usefulness, was terminated 



* Besides " The Life of Sir P. Sidxky " she following works written b\ him, were 
published. — « ffistory of lint Five Yt&ra of Jam El I." 1G4S, mid " The Remains \>f 
Foik Lofio Brooks," 1670. 



40 HISTORY OF THE 



Robert Greville, second Lord Brooke. 

-^mmmmmmmmmmmmmm^mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm 



Sept. 8, 1628, by a calamitous death. He was stabbed 
by bis own servant, whom he had displeased ; and who, 
immediately afterwards, killed himself. He was buried 
in the Chapter-house, on the north side of St. Mary's 
Church ; where his monument, erected by himself, with 
its remarkable inscription, is still to be seen. 

Robert Greville, son of Fulk Greville, of 
Thorpe Latymer, in Lincolnshire, Esq. adopted in his in- 
fancy, by his cousin, the first Lord Brooke, succeeded to hi9 
honors and estates. He soon afterwards married Cathe- 
rine Russel, eldest daughter of Francis Earl of Bed- 
ford. The political principles, imbibed in his earliest 
youth, and confirmed by his intimate connection with the 
Bedford family, taught him to regard civil and religious 
liberty as the first of national blessings; and inspired him 
with sorrow and disgust, at the measures pursued by 
the Court, in the unhappy reign of Charles I. He 
in consequence formed a design of removing to America 
in company with Lord Viscount Say and Sele ; and a 
settlement was formed for their reception in New England, 
to which was given the name of Sayhrooke. But when a 
spirit of opposition to the arbitrary government, which 
oppressed his native country, broke forth, he determined 
to remain, and to exert all his influence in support of its 
rights and liberties. He took, accordingly, the side of 
the Parliament, as already mentioned ; * and proved him- 
self a firm and powerful supporter of their cause. After 
the Battle of Edge-hill, he was appointed Commander-in- 
Chief of the associated counties of Warwick and Stafford. 
In the former of these counties all opposition to him 



* See page 20—23. 



EARLS OF WARWICK. 41 

Francis— Robert Greville — third and fourth Lord "Brooke. 

soon ceased ; and he hastened to dislodge Lord Ches- 
terfield from his position at Lichfield. At the head 
of 1,200 horse and foot, he speedily drove his enemy from 
the town, into the close of the Cathedral ; and this place 
he instantly prepared to assault. But, whilst he was in 
the act of looking out of the window of a house, in order 
to give some directions, he was shot in the right eye, by 
a bullet; and immediately died, March 1, 1 642— leaving 
behind him a character for talents, for courage, and for 
many great and amiable qualities, which his friends have 
ever affectionately admired, and which even his adversaries 
have candidly acknowledged, and impartially applauded.* 
He left issue by his wife, five sons, Francis, Robert, 
Edward, Algernon, and Fulke ; of whom the third 
and fourth died early, and the other three succeeded to 
the title. 

Francis Greville, the eldest son of Robert, 
was the third Lord Brooke ; but enjoyed his dignity only 
a few months. He died unmarried, 1642. 

Robert Greville, the second son, succeeded his 
brother as Lord Brooke. He was one of the six Peers 
sent to Charles II. in Holland, by the House of Peers, 
to present their humble petition that his majesty would 
be pleased to return. He was appointed Lord Lieutenant 
of the county of Stafford, High Steward of Stafford, and 
of Stratford-on-Avon ; and in the new Charter granted to 
the Corporation, was constituted Recorder of Warwick. 



* Dugdale's Bar. v. ii. p. 443. Clarendon, v. it. p. 149. Baxter's 

Saints' Rest, p. 82, 33. Edit. 1649. Milton'* Prose Wo:ks, v. i. p. 133. Ma- 

e*eLEY, v. iii. p. 414. Wood's Ath. Oxon, 

F 



42 HISTORY OF THE 



Fulke — Fulke — William— fifth, sixth, and seventh Lord Brooke. 



He contributed much to the embellishments of the Cos- 
tie, and fitted up magnificently its suite of State Apart- 
ments. He died at Bath, l6?6 7 leaving no male issue. 

Fulke Greville, his youngest brother, succeeded 
to his title and estates. On the renewal of the Charter, 
he was appointed Recorder of Warwick for life. He 
died at Twickenham, 17 10. By his wife Sarah, daughter 
of Sir Francis Dashwood, Knight, he had seven sons 
and four daughters. Of these his eldest son, Francis, 
married Ann, daughter of John Wilmot, Esq. but died 
hefore his fathei^ leaving issue two sons, Fulke, and 
William. 

Fulke Greville Lord Brooke, survived his father 
and grandfather only five months. He died at Oxford, 
171 lj unmarried. 

William Greville succeeded to the title on the 
decease of his elder brother ; and, on coming of age, 
was chosen Recorder of Warwick. He married Ann 
daughter and coheir of Thomas Thynne, Esq. ; and 
died July 28, If 22, leaving his honors and estates to 
Francis, his third > but only surviving son. 

Francis Greville succeeded to the title of Lord 
Brooke, when he was but eight years old. Soon after 
coming of age, he was chosen Recorder of Warwick, In 
May, 1742, he married the Hon. Elizabeth Hamilton, 
eldest daughter of Lord Archibald Hamilton, son of 
William, Duke of Hamilton, By this Lady he had three 
sons, George, who succeeded him ; Charles-Francis, who 
died unmarried, 1809; Robert-Fulke, afterwards Groom, 



EARLS OF WARWICK. a% 

Francis Greville., eighth Lord Brooke, the first Earl of Warwick. 

•a. ii ii ■ S i ■ sassaasssss 

of the Bedchamber to the King, who married Louisa, 
Countess of Mansfield ■; and five daughters, Louisa- 
Augusta, married to Wm. Churchill, Esq. ; Frances- 
Elizabeth, married to the late Sir H. Harper ; Char- 
lotte-Mary, married to John, Earl of Galloway; 
Isabella, who died in infancy ; and Anne, who died in 
1/83. — In the year 1746, Francis Lord Brooke was raised 
to the dignity of an Earl, by the title of Earl Brooke. 
On the death of the Duke of Montague in 1749, he was 
appointed Lord Lieutenant and Custos Rotulorum of the 
County of Warwick; and in 1753, he was created Knight 
of the most ancient Order of the Thistle, On the 13th 
Nov. 1759, he was advanced by George II. to the 
further dignity of Earl of Warwick; and afterwards 
obtained a grant to himself and to his descendants, to bear 
the ancient crest of the bear and ragged staff. — His 
Lordship died July 6, 1773. — The Manor of Warwick, 
which, after the death of Ambrose Dudley, had remained 
in the possession of the crown, until granted by Charles 
I. to the Corporation of London, and by them sold to 
Wm. Bolton, Esq. of London, was purchased of his family 
by this Earl, in the year 1742; and was, thus, again 
united to the Castle. 

George Greville, Earl Brooke and Warwick, 
Baron Brooke, of Beauchamp Court, in Warwickshire ; 
Lord Lieutenant and Custos Rotulorum of the County; 
Recorder of Warwick ; Fellow of the Royal Society ; 
succeeded his father 1773. On the 1st of April, 1771, he 
married Georgiana, only daughter of James I^ord Selsey, 
who died April 1, 177 2 ? leaving one son George, who 
also died at the age of 14. His Lordship again married 
July 9, 1776, Henrietta, daughter of Richard Vernon, 

f 2 



44 HISTORY OF, &c. 



George Greville, the present Earl of Warwick. 



Esq. and of Evelyn, Countess of Upper Ossory, and 
sister to Granville, Marquis of Stafford. By this Lady 
his Lordship has had three sons, and five daughters : 
Henry., Lord Brooke, Colonel of the Warwickshire Mili- 
tia, and Member for the Borough of Warwick, in three 
successive Parliaments ; Charles, Lieutenant-Colonel of 
the 38th regiment of foot ; Robert, who died July l6, 
1802 ; Elizabeth, who died Jan. 23, 1806; Henrietta, 
married to Thomas Scott, Earl of Chnmell ; Caroline ; 
Augusta Louisa; and Charlotte, 

SOrmottal Sfoaring^ 

Arms. Sable, on a cross, within a border ingrailed, 
or, five pellets. Crests. Out of a ducal coronet, gules, 
a swan with wings expanded, argent, beaked, of the first. 
And on a wreath of his colours, a bear erect, argent, 
muzzled, gules, supporting a ragged staff of the first. 
Supporters. Two swans, with wings expanded, argent, 
legged, sable, beaked, and ducally collared, gules. Mot-* 
jo. Vix ea nostra vocq. 




PRESENT STATE, &c. 45 



Situation of the Tozon. 



CHAP. IV. 



$«£ent .State of t^attokft. 

Situation — Principal Streets — Improvements after the Great Fire — Recent 
Improvements — Paving — Flagging — Lighting — Trade — Markets — Public 
Amusements — Population — Corporate Body — Number of Electors — Prin- 
cipal Inns — Banks — Daily Posts — Land and Water Communication — 
Geographical Position — Surrounding Roads— Objects of curiosity in the 
Vicinity* 

JSI OTHING can well be imagined more happily chosen, 
than the situation of Warwick; "in which" says Dug- 
dale," this town may justly glory beyond any other." "It 
" stands on a main rocky hill," ^rising in every direction, 
particularly in that of east and west : and the ascent, 
which marks the immediate approach into the town, 
terminates in the central streets. In one of the oldest 
descriptions of Warwick, it is remarked that "the entrance 
" into it is, by four roads, leading by as many religious 
'*: houses, thro' a rock, over a current of water." The 
works of nature are not frail and transient, in an equal de- 
gree at least, as those of art : and whilst the same rocks 
still rise and the same currents still flow, all the religious 
edifices, here alluded to, have either ceased to exist, or have 
long since been converted to different purposes. The four 
roads, however, are, probably, the same as the present roads 
to Birmingham, Stratford, Coventry, and Banbury. 



* Leland. § They were, probably, St. Michael's in theSaltsford; St. Lawrence'* 
in the West Street ; St. John's near the Coton-End ; and St. Helen's near the Bridge-End. 



46 PRESENT STATE 

Tract of country surrounding the Town. 

The fine rocky eminence on which the town stands, 
is itself seated in the midst of a spacious and beautiful 
amphitheatre, formed by a circuit of hills, gently rising, 
at the distance of about two or three miles, and bounding 
its prospect on eveiy side ; except to the north-east, where 
the view extends into Northamptonshire ; and to the 
south-west, where it opens over a vast expanse of country, 
terminated by the Gloucestershire and Worcestershire hills. 
This whole surrounding tract is naturally fertile, and 
highly cultivated ; intersected every where with remark- 
ably fine hedges, to which great attention is paid ; richly 
embellished with flourishing trees and woods ; and beau- 
tifully watered by the meanderings of the Avon, which is 
here a considerable stream, and its tributary river, the 
Learn, which joins it near Warwick. This delightful 
situation is further recommended by the salubrity of its 
atmosphere, which is pure, dry, and so warm, that the 
seasons are usually a fortnight earlier here, than in many 
places not more distant than twenty or thirty miles, 

" The beauty and glory of Warwick" says Ice- 
land, " is in two streets, whereof one is called the High 
* c Street, and goeth from the East Gate to the West, 
" having a right goodly cross in the middle of it ; the 
cc other crosseth the middle of it, making a quadrivium y 
u and goeth from north to south. " The cross has long 
ago been removed ; but the principal streets still retain 
the same direction ; and continue to deserve, in the 
same degree, the praise of spacious and handsome streets. 
Since the days of Leland, who flourished about the year 
1530, as may well be supposed, the town has witnessed 
many and great changes, especially in consequence of the 
dreadful fire which, in 1694, destroyed so large a part of it. 



OF WARWICK. . 47 

Principal Streets — Recent Improvements 

But this calamity, deplorable as it was at the time, proved 
in the end truly beneficial. For, from its ashes, the town 
once more arose, erected upon a plan of greater spaci- 
ousness, regularity and beauty : and thus, in its improved 
appearance, and especially in its superior convenience 
and healthfnlness, the most important advantages have 
been secured, and transmitted down to all its future 
inhabitants. 

But notwithstanding these great advantages of 
appearance and situation, Warwick has long been consi- 
dered and described as a place, remarkable for dull inac- 
tivity, and for the careless inattention of the inhabitants 
to all that might obviously contribute to its improvement, 
and its embellishment. This reproach stands recorded 
against it in many publications, both in prose and poetry.* 
But it will now be allowed, we think, that such reproaches 
if ever just, are so no longer, or at least are becoming 
less so every day : and that there is the fairest prospect of 
seeing Warwick rise to a distinguished rank amongst the 
most considerable county towns of England. The inha- 
bitants have lately displayed their spirit and liberality, as 
well as their taste, in many great and important improve- 
ments ; of which the last, though not the least, is the 
culverting, flagging and paving of all the principal streets. 
This is now substantially and handsomely done, at the 
expence of upwards of c ^?5 ? 000. the whole of which was 
defrayed by voluntary subscription. During the winter 
months, the town is also lighted, the expence of which 
is defrayed out of the funds of the corporation. The 
streets are of ample breadth ; and built with considerable 



J « Appendix, No. 



4S PRESENT STATE 

Trade — Markets — Public Amusements. 

attention to uniformity. Most of the narrower parts 
have heen widened; and almost every inconvenient ob- 
struction or unsightly appearance removed. Many of the 
private houses are modern and handsome ; many of the 
shops are newly fronted, and tastefully fitted up ; and all 
the public edifices are at once substantial and ornamental. 
In short, by these and other improvements, conducted 
both with spirit and judgment, Warwick has been greatly 
raised in its general appearance and character: and may 
now fairly claim to be described, not only as a neat, airy, 
and cleanly ; but also, to a certain extent, as a spacious, 
regular, handsome and flourishing Town, 

With no pretension to rank amongst the larger 
commercial or manufacturing towns of England, War-* 
wick may yet boast of some considerable share of trade, 
which is in a progressive state: and of exhibiting a little 
more than formerly of that stir and bustle, which trade 
usually produces. Its markets, held every Saturday, 
which were formerly inconsiderable, are now large, well- 
supplied, and numerously attended. The Canal lately 
completed from Birmingham to this place, and continued 
thence to Napton, where it joins the Oxford, and with 
it the Grand Junction Canal ; the two Cottony the Lace, 
and especially the Worsted Manufactory, lately esta- 
blished, upon a large scale, by some ingenious and en- 
terprising individuals, have already contributed much to 
its chearful activity and growing population. The assizes, 
the quarter sessions, the several fairs amounting to twelve 
in a year ; the horse races in September, followed by a 
second in November; the winter assemblies, the occasio- 
nal theatrical amusements, the long-established and well- 
supported hunt, lately under the direction of Mr. Corbet, 



OF WARWICK. 49 

Population — Municipal Government. 

now of Lord Middleton, whose principal center is iii 
its vicinity ; and above ail, the numerous and fashionable 
resort of nobility and gentry, attracted either by the fame 
of its magnificent Castle, or by the celebrity of the 
medicinal Springs at Leamington, a rapidly-rising Avater- 
ing-place, in its neighbourhood — all these circumstances 
have concurred to give a considerable and an increasing 
life and spirit to the place. — Upon the whole, if we may 
hazard a prediction, founded on the experience of only a 
few past years, Warwick bids fair, perhaps at no very 
distant period, to all its other attractions, to add those 
of numerous and handsome shops, lively and bustling 
streets, increased and improved buildings, and an enlarged 
and thriving population. 

In the time of Dr. Thomas, whose edition of 
Dugdales Warwickshire was published in IpO, the 
number of houses were, in the parish of St. Mary 6j6, 
and in that of St. Nicholas 240. According to the last 
Census, taken by order of government, in 1811 ,— in Sf. 
Marifs parish were, — inhabited houses 960 — families 1059 
— males 2272 — females 268 1, — In St. Nicholas'' parish — 
inhabited houses 29 1 — families 376 — males 740 — females 
804. The total population, therefore, will be 6497 persons. 

The municipal government of the town is vested 
in a mayor, a recorder, 12 aldermen, and 12 principal 
burgesses, with a town clerk ; who have power to make 
laws for the regulation of the borough, and to impose 
reasonable fines and penalties upon all offenders. The 
first recorder appointed by the present charter was Fulke 
Lord Brooke, and the recorder at this time is, his des- 
cendant, the present Earl of Warwick. 

G 



50 PRESENT STATE 



Right of Election — Public Buildings — Churches. 



This borough sends two members to Parliament, 
as already noticed. The right of election depends on the 
payment of certain rates to the church and poor, com- 
monly called scot and lot. The number of electors is 
about 500. The present members are, the Rt* Hon. Lord 
Brooke, and Charles Mills, Esa. 

The principal public edifices are, The County Hall, 
The County Gaol, The County Bridewell, The Court- 
House, and The Market -House. The churches are two, 
St. Marys, and St. Nicholas. St. James' Chapel, at the 
lower end of the High-street is private, and belongs to 
Leicester s Hospital ; and that of St. Peter's, at the east- 
ern extremity of Jury-street, has long been used for 
the purposes of a Charity School. There are places of 
worship belonging to the different classes of Dissenters, 
the Presbyterian, the Quaker, the Independent, the 
Baptist, and the Westleyan. 

The principal Inns are, the Warwick Arms, the 
Black Swan, and the Woolpach. At the latter, the Post- 
Office is established. There are two Banks ; of which, 
the firm of the first is, " Tomes, Russell, Tomes, and 
Russell;" that of the second, " Whitehead, Weston, 
and Greenway." In Jury-street, is a News-Room ; and 
near the Market Place, a Public Library, respectably 
supported by annual subscription. A Newspaper is pub- 
lished weekly. 

The Post from Coventry, and the north-eastern 
parts of the country, arrives every day at eleven, and 
that from London, at about the same hour. The former 
returns at twelve, the latter at three. There are com- 



OF WARWICK. 51 

Geographical Position — Surrounding Roads. 

■Hi i ■ ■ ■ j mi J 8 

munications, by coaches, with Birmingham, Coventry^ 
Leicester, Gloucester, Bristol, and London ; and, by 
waggon, with these, and most other places in the king- 
dom. The Birmingham and Warwick Canal opens a 
communication by water, with all the northern parts ; 
and the Warwick and Napton Canal with all the southern 
parts of the kingdom. 

The geographical situation of Warwick is 52.° 4. 
N. Lat. 1.° 35. W. Long. The distance from London is 
J)3 miles, bearing N. W. and from some of the principal 
surrounding places the distances are as follows ; — from 
Leamington, 2 miles ; from Ken il worth, 5 ; from Coventry 
10; from Rugby, 15 ; from Southam, 9; Daventry, 20; 
Kington, 11; Banbury, 20; Stratford, 8; Knowle, 10; 
and Birmingham, 21. 

The roads in Warwickshire are remarkably good; 
and those in the neighbourhood of Warwick are some of 
the best in the kingdom. Nothing can easily exceed, in 
all that contributes to the pleasure of a fine ride, the road 
from Stratford through Warwick to Coventry ; and there 
are other roads, singularly pleasant, in various directions 
round the town. Amongst the numerous objects of at- 
traction, besides the Castle, in the town itself; there are, 
in its vicinity, Guy's-Cliff, Ruins of Kenilworth Castle, 
Stoneleigh Abbey, Charlcott House, Combe Abbey ; and, 
at the distance of eight miles, is Stratford-on-Avon, dis- 
tinguished as the place where England's favorite Poet, 
tc sweetest Shakespeare, Fancy's child," was born, and 
where he died. 



G2 



52 PERAMBULATION 



High Street — Bank — Warwick Arms — Presbyterian Chapel. 



CHAP. Y. 



^e^amButetion of 3©artoicfe* 

High Street — Cow Lane — West Street — Jury Street — Smith Street — St. John's — 
Coton-End—the Butts— Back Hill— Castle Gates— Mill Street— Bridge 
End — Castle Street — Church Street — North Gate Street — Priory Park 
Entrance — Oil Mill Lane— Salt sf or d— Market Place— New Street — 
Bowling Green — Friar Lane— Race Course. 



JlN taking a more particular survey of TVarwick — 
or in guiding the walk of the stranger through it — we may 
observe, that what Leland calls the High Street, is now 
divided into two : of which, that which runs in a westerly 
direction alone retains the name, and is one of the best 
in the town. Most of the houses here are good ; and 
some, large and handsome. Their want of sufficient ele- 
vation, however, and the tiled roofs standing out too 
strongly to view, somewhat diminish the general effect. 
About the middle, on the south side, is the Bank of 
Messrs. Whitehead, Weston, and Greenway. Lower 
down, on the same side, one of the principal inns, the 
Warwick Arms, presents a spacious front, built of white 
stone, in a pleasing style of simple elegance. Opposite is 
the Printing-Office, whence issues, every Saturday, a 
Newspaper, which, though in its infancy, has already ob- 
tained an extensive circulation. Still lower down, on the 
south side, stands one of the Dissenting Chapels, a small 
but neat edifice, belonging to those who are commonly, but 



OF WARWICK. 53 



Quaker's Meeting — Independent Chapel — St. James's — West Street. 

improperly, called Presbyterians. Near it, concealed from 
sight, is the Meeting House of a society of Quakers, con- 
siderable in number, and respectable, as they ever are, in 
character. Almost opposite, at a small distance, in Cow 
Lane, but retired from view, is the Independent Chapel, 
a plain, unadorned, but large and commodious building. 
In the same lane, stands Pickering's Alms Houses, of 
which, as well as of all the charitable and other institu- 
tions, distinct notice will be taken hereafter. The High 
Street is terminated, in a striking manner, by St. James's 
Chapel, belonging to Leicester's Hospital, for the relief 
of maimed soldiers, and decayed tradesmen built on an 
arch, which presents the appearance of a gate-way en- 
trance into the town. It was anciently called Hongyngate. 
Near this chapel, on the south, began the dreadful Fire, 
so often mentioned in the course of this Work, just be- 
hind one of those houses, which, by their antique appear- 
ance, still shew that they belong " to other times. " 
Extending from this to the opposite side, and proceeding 
easterly, the devouring flames left the whole street, a heap 
of smoaking ruins. 

Through the high but dark Gate-way, beneath 
St. James's Chapel, is the passage leading to the West 
Street, which is broad and airy ; chiefly inhabited by 
industrious labourers and artisans ; forming a wide en- 
trance into the Town, from the Kington and Stratford 
Roads. In Leland's Itinerary, it is noticed "as a very 
large Street." Towards the extremity of it, anciently 
stood the Church of St. Lawrence, one of those religious 
edifices, of which formerly there were so many ; but of 
which, no remains can now be traced. At what time 
this church was founded is uncertain : but even almost 



54 PERAMBULATION 

Jury Street — Court- House — Black Swan. 

five hundred years ago, it is expressly described as being 
in a ruinous state ; and, by an ecclesiastical decree in the 
reign of Edward III. it was formally dissolved. Pro- 
ceeding up the West Street, from the Stratford Road, a 
fine view of St. James's Tower presents itself, appearing 
boldly in front, and rising loftily on its arch-way.* This 
chapel existed prior to the reign of Henry I. more than 
700 years ago : but the present tower was erected by 
Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, in the reign of 
Richard II. 

Returning back to the Cross — branching from it 
easterly, is the Jury Street — so called from the matted 
room in it, where the Juries were formerly impannelled. 
In this street stands the Court-Honse, a stately edifice, 
substantially built of stone. Over its door is placed the 
Royal Arms above, and those of the Borough under- 
neath ; in the centre, is the figure of Justice, with her 
usual insignia, the sword and the balance. Lower down, 
on the same side, is another of the principal Inns, the 
Black Sivan, with a new and good front. Many of the 
houses in this street, are old, and afford striking specimens 
of the ancient mode of architecture, especially the remains 
of one which was formerly the residence of the noble 
family of the Archers. But some are modern, and built 
in a style which indicates the opulence of their possessors. 
The older buildings on each side, mark the points at 
which the destructive progress of the great fire, in this 
direction, was happily arrested. — In moving down the 



* It is to be lamented, that the good effect of a large aud well-proportioned window 
in this tower is entirely destroyed, by the miserable economy of bricking up the lower 
part of it. The bricls are even left uncovered with plaster. 



OF WARWICK. 3d 

St. Peter s — Smith Street — St. John's. 

whole of this street, St. Peter's Chapel will not fail to 
strike the eye, as a fine object. It was built as a place 
of religious worship in the reign of Henry VI. but is 
now converted to the benevolent purposes of a Charity 
School. In the centre, is the room appropriated to the 
boys ; and the newly added wing, built on the remains 
of the old town-walls, was intended for the use of the 
girls. It is pleasing to remark, of the two edifices, at 
the extremities of the two principal streets, at once ter- 
minating and adorning them, that one is devoted to the 
instruction of indigent youth, and the other to the con- 
solation of destitute and declining age. 

Passing through the arch-way of St. Peter's, the 
Smith-Street opens to view — i( once distinguished" says 
Leland, " as the residence of many Jews," — and a little 
beyond, is a large and ancient mansion, still retaining 
marks of its former grandeur. It was originally the 
Hospital of St. John the Baptist, founded in the reign of 
Henry II. by William Earl of Warwick, intended for 
the reception of the houseless poor, and the wandering 
stranger. This institution had however, from some un- 
known cause, ceased to exist, even prior to the general 
dissolution ; at which time the estate was in the possession 
of Anthony Stoughton, of the family of the Stoughtons, 
in Surrey. By him, probably, the present mansion was 
erected, which seems not to be much older than the time of 
Elizabeth. In consequence of the marriage of one of his 
female descendants to James Money, Esq. the estate passed 
into this family ; and, by his son, it was sold to the present 
Earl of Warwick. It is now a private Academy. Oppo- 
site to it, is the spacious and delightful Road to Coventry ; 
and, at a small distance from it ; appears a considerable. 



56 PERAMBULATION 

Colon End — The Butts—Back Hill — Baptist Meeting. 

range of neat and comfortable habitations, recently erect- 
ed, intended chiefly for the accommodation of persons, 
employed in the newly-established Lace Manufactory. 

Beyond St. Johns, is Coton-End, a wide street, 
principally inhabited by the more laborious, but not the 
least useful, class of the community. It is mentioned in 
Domesday Book, by the name of Cotes, an old English 
word, which signifies House. It was originally part of 
the estate of Edwyne Earl of Mercia ; then, it became 
the possession of the Conq,ueror himself; afterwards, it 
was granted to Henry Earl of Warwick ; and, from him, 
was transmitted down to his descendants. Beyond Colon- 
End, is the Emscote Road. 

Returning back to St. Peter's Chapel, on the 
north side is that part, which is called the Butts, pro- 
bably, because butts were formerly erected here for the 
practice of archery,* so much encouraged by our former 
sovereigns. In this part is situated the College. School, 
a large and ancient building, almost concealed from view, 
by the luxuriant trees and shrubs of the surrounding 
gardens. Near it, is the Vicarage, belonging to the 
adjoining church of St. Mary ; and beyond it, is a range 
of houses, of the second rank, newly and uniformly built. 

On the south side of St. Peter's, opposite the 
Butts, descends a gentle declivity called the Back Hill, 
where, with unostentatious front, stands the Baptist 
Meeting-House. Adjoining, are some comfortable Alms 



* This was usual in the vicinit}' of most Towns. There is a place still called the 
ISvTTe at Leicester, and also another of the same name at Stamford, 



OF WARWICK. 57 

Castle Gates — Milt Street — St. Nicholas. 

Houses, part founded by Thomas Oaken, and part by 
Nicholas Iffeler ; who both acquired affluent fortunes 
in this town, and were both liberal benefactors to it. On 
the opposite side, is the Castle wall ; and, at the lower 
extremity, stands its Castellated Entrance, plain and un- 
pretending, in its exterior appearance — of which, how- 
ever, if it be said that it is scarcely worthy of the magni- 
ficent structure, to which it conducts ; at least, it may be 
remarked, that it excites no previous expectation : and 
therefore leaves the mind open to the full impression of 
that astonishment and delight, which the unanticipated 
view of any object of extraordinary sublimity or beauty 
naturally produces. — Beyond the Castle gates, to the 
right, is the Mill Street, formerly the great eastern en- 
trance into the town, over an ancient Bridge of fourteen 
arches ; now fallen to decay, and purposely left in its 
ruinous state, to aid the effect of the fine view, which the 
venerable Castle, with its rising rocks and towering bat- 
tlements, and its whole surrounding scenery, here presents. 
This near view is seen to the best advantage, from the 
meadows, within the Castle Park, on the eastern bank of 
the river. 

Opposite the Castle gates, rurally seated, at a 
short remove from the road, is the Church of St. Nicholas, 
built in the style of modern gothic; of which if the exe- 
cution be good, the design, in the opinion of all the best 
judges, is bad. Between this church and St. John's, stood 
the ancient House of the Templars, founded by Roger 
Earl of Warwick, in the reign of Henry I. It was well 
endowed with lands, of which the neighbouring meadows, 
pastures, and other fields, including the water mill, were 
pan. Upon the suppression of the whole order in 1311, 

H 



58 PERAMBULATION 

Nezo Bridge — Bridge-End— Castle Street* 

these lands passed into the possession of the Hospitallers 
of Balsall, in this county ; and, after the general dissolu- 
tion, into that of the Dudleys, Earls of Warwick. 

At a small distance, easterly, is the New Bridge T 
lately erected over the Avon, consisting of one large cir- 
cular arch, measuring in its span 105 feet. Just beyond 
this bridge, three roads meet — of which the first, in front, 
divides at the toll-gate, within view, into the Tachbroke 
and Banbury roads — the second, to the right, conducts 
to the scanty remains of several considerable streets, 
known under the general name of the Bridge-End. 
Here anciently stood the Church of St. Helens, of which 
some small traces, in what was then used as a barn, were 
till very lately to be found. The third road, on the left, 
conducts to My ton, written in Domesday Book, Muitone; 
formerly a considerable village, though now entirely de- 
populated — with the exception of one single house, a 
handsome modern structure, called My ton House. It had 
formerly a chapel belonging to it, in which several Can on 3 
officiated, to whom it is recorded, that many valuable 
grants of lands were made by Roger, Earl of Warwick? 
and others, in the time of King Stephen. From My ton 9 
the road leads on to Leamington ; proceeding thence to 
Southam, and Daventry^ 

Returning once more to the Cross — at right 
angles to the High and Jury Street, oii the south side, 
is the Castle Street, formerly of considerable extent, 
but now much contracted, by giving way to the wi- 
dening circle of the Castle pleasure grounds. — On the 
north side, is the Church Street, in which are many 
good, and some handsome houses. Both sides of it wera- 



OF WARWICK. 59 



Church-Street — St. Mary's — North Gate Street — County Hall. 

-* - - ■ — - ■ 

kid in ruins, by^jhe great fire; which, extending westerly, 
involved in one dreadful destruction, all the houses and 
streets between it and the Market Place. — Proceeding 
tip this street, a fine near view of St. Marys Church h 
presented — which, notwithstanding some great and asto- 
nishing faults in its plan, is yet a grand, imposing, and 
extensive pile. On the right, appears the Chapel of the 
Beauchamps, one of the finest structures of its kind, in 
the kingdom. It is in the rich gothic style, and the view 
of the exterior will afford scarcely less delight, than that 
of the beautiful interior — Turning, with regret, from this 
noble monument of ancient architecture, towards the cen- 
tral parts of the church, the large indeed, but surely 
uncouth and cumbrous windows, will particularly strike, 
and at the same time, justly offend the eye — constructed, 
as they are, in utter defiance of all rule, and all taste — 
The two rows of arches, in these windows are Saxon, 
heavy at best, and here strangely out of place ; and of the 
grotesque forms above them, neither name nor resemblance 
can be found, either in that or any other system of ancient 
or modern architecture. — Turning, however, to the left, the 
eye is better pleased — where the light and elegant tower is 
feen, rearing its lofty pinnacles, producing great effect, in 
spite of all the faults in the form of its arches and windows. 

Passing through the wide arch-way. formed by the 
four piers on which St. Mary's Tower is built — the North 
Gate Street opens to view— which, though more retired, 
is spacious and handsome ; the residence chiefly of the 
gentry of Warwick. It is particularly distinguished by 
its two noble and substantial buildings the County Ha!!, 
and the County Gaol. The former displays a front of 
wide extent, and considerable elegance, supported by pi<U 

ii 2 



60 PERAMBULATION 

County Gaol — County Bridewell — St. Marys Tower. 

lars of the Corinthian order. Tlie latter looks built for 
strength^ agreeably to its character; and the front is 
supported by a row of massive pillars, of three quarters 
lengthy of the Doric order. — At a small distance from it, 
in the Bridewell Lane, stands the County Bridewell; 
which is, also, a strong and handsome building, with a 
good stone front, and a garden before it. — From any part 
of North-Gate Street, St. Marys Tower is strikingly 
seen, in near view, without interruption, from its base to 
its lofty summit. Nothing can exceed the exact and 
beautiful proportion, with which it rises to the great height 
of 174 feet. Though the style of architecture is justly 
regarded as a strange instance either of bad taste, or, what 
is more probable, of perverse, or sportive humour, yet the 
design of it is attributed to no less a person than Sir 
Christopher Wren. The Latin inscription carried round 
three sides of the tower, briefly detailing the history of this 
church, imports that "it was first repaired by Roger de 
Newburg, Earl of Warwich, in the time of King ^Ste- 
phen : that it was afterwards wholly rebuilt by Thomas 
de BeauchamP; Earl of Warwick, in the year 1.3 94 ; that 
it was destroyed 1694, by a dreadful fire, which spared 
neither temples nor houses ; and that this new church 
begun by public, was finished by royal piety, under 
the happy auspices of Queen Anne, in the memorable 
year 1704 — Few readers will want to be reminded that it 
was the glorious victory of Blenheim, obtained by the 
illustrious Marlborough, which will for ever render the 
year just mentioned, truly memorable indeed in the annals 
of British history ! 

Proceeding to the lower extremity of North Gate 
Street, the entrance^ through large iron gates, into the 



OF WARWICK 6l 



Cotton Manufactory— Saltsford— Poor House— Worsted Manufactory. 



Priory Park, appears. On the right hand is the Oil Mill 
Lane, in which is the Manufactory for the weaving of Cot- 
ton, established by Messrs. Parkers. Towards the left, 
down a steep descent, lately made less inconveniently 
so, by the present happy and prevailing spirit of improve- 
ment, is that part of the town called the Saltsford, 
distinguished by its large Worsted Manufactory , carried on 
Tinder the firm of Parkes and Brookhouse ; by its nume- 
rous and busy wharfs, chiefly filled with coal ; and by its 
increasing and industrious population. In this street, is 
the Poor House, unassuming in its external appearance, 
but humanely and judiciously regulated within. Towards 
the lower extremity, are the remains of the ancient church 
of St. Michael; near which was also a Hospital for 
Lepers, of the same name. The latter founded so long 
ago as the reign of Henry I. by Roger, Earl of Warwick, 
has totally disappeared ; the small remains of the former, 
are now converted into the humble abodes of aged and 
infirm poverty. — Beyond these, a newly erected street 
appears, consisting of airy and comfortable habitations 
provided for the accommodation of the numerous artisans, 
employed in the various departments of the Worsted 
Manufactory, 

The entrance from the Birmingham Road into the 
town is through the Saltsford ; and thence, into the Mar- 
het Place, the most direct way is by a road, deeply cut 
through the rock, which passes under a handsome Iron 
Bridge, the gift of one of the present Members, Charles 
Mills, Esq. 

The Market Place forms a pretty good square ; 
surrounded by numerous and some of them handsome 
chops, and by several good inns, of the second rank. At 



62 PERAMBULATION 

t l ■■M W I I I J I M IIIII W . I HUH II I ■! ■ Mi^m i WI« ■■ ■■■ ! ■ I I .■ .■—III Ill « . -m« l.. f l » 1,1 , . 

Market Place — Public Library — Theatre. 

' ■—' " ■ "■ ' ' " SSSSSSS 111 tS SqSSSSZSS&mSfS ■ ■ ' " > ■ " ■ i i ■— — a» 

the southern extremity, stands the Market House. Near it 
is the IVoolpack, the third of the principal inns, newly 
erected, conveniently arranged, and well conducted. It 
is much frequented by travellers. 

In the Market Place was anciently a church, 
dedicated to St. John the Baptist, of which the first foun- 
dation is ascribed by Rous, to Caractacus, the most 
distinguished of all the early British chiefs. The walls 
of it were standing in the time of Dugdale : but even of 
these not the smallest trace is any longer to be found. 
Here, also, was formerly the Booth Hall, which was taken 
down only a few years ago : leaving, instead of an old and 
ruinous building, the present open and spacious area. 

At the northern extremity of the Market Place, 
in a short street, leading towards the church, is the 
Public Library. — At right angles to this street, is ano- 
ther, New Street, so called from having been built in 
the place of one, that was utterly destroyed by the 
great Fire. At the corner of this, with a handsome 
stone front, stands the Bank of Messrs. Tomes, Russell, 
Tomes and Russell. 

From one side of the Market Place, over the Iron 
Bridge, is the way to the Theatre ; of which, if its ex- 
ternal appearance promises nothing, the interior affords 
ample space, and convenient accommodation, for all who 
usually resort to theatrical amusements. 

At the southern end of the same place, a small 
street conducts to the Bowling Green, delightfully situated 
on an eminence, commanding a rich, pleasing, and exten- 



OF WARWICK Cs 



Bowling Green — Friar Lane — Race Course. 

— ■'■■■■■ — . . - , . . 

sive prospect. Further on, is the Friar Lane, so called, 
from a large building, which stood near it, belonging to 
the fraternity of Preaching Friars, called the Black Friars, 
who came over to England, and settled here, in the reign 
of Henry III. Their habitation was surrendered, by 
deed, into the hands of Henry VIII. and was soon after 
demolished. The lands were granted,, by Edward VI. 
to the Dudleys, Earls of Warwick. The Friar Lane 
is the principal road to the Race Course. 

The Race Course is esteemed one of the best in 
the kingdom. It extends round a large compass of 
ground, everywhere flat, except in one part ; and measures, 
in its whole extent, nearly two miles. For the accommo- 
dation of the numerous spectators, who usually resort to 
these diversions, a commodious Stand has been lately erect- 
ed, by private subscription. It presents, in its appearance, a 
handsome structure ; and, in its arrangement, is well con- 
trived for all the purposes intended. On the second floor is 
the principal apartment; which is a large room, whither the 
company may retire, in case of unfavorable weather: and, 
before it, on a kind of spacious balcony, tiers of seats are- 
placed ; whence is commanded a fine and extensive view 
of the course. Above, on a large open area, a still more 
extensive view is obtained; including the entire circum- 
ference of the course. Below, one convenient apartment 
is provided for the use of the company ; and the others, 
are formed into a comfortable dwelling for the herds- 
man, whose business it is to take charge of the nu- 
merous cattle sent to graze in these wide and fertile 
grounds — which is common land. The right of com- 
monage, which is now a valuable consideration, U vested 
in the inhabitants of certain houses, within the parish of 



64 PERAMBULATION, &c. 

Views from the Race Ground — Marble Yard. 

St. Mary, under certain regulations, which were settled, 
immediately after the great Fire, in 1694; and of which 
a copy will be given in the Appendix.* 

In different parts of the Race Ground, are several 
good views of the town, with most of its principal objects, 
the Market House, the Prisons, the High Church, and 
St. James's : but its proud boast, the magnificent Castle, 
is not here to be seen ; except only in some of the more 
distant parts. — Standing forward, conspicuously to view, 
are two houses, called the Marble Yard, one § of sin- 
gular construction, but both substantially built, and 
most delightfully situated. They are the residence of the 
proprietors of the Worsted, Manufactory — of which the 
extensive buildings appear, also, in full view ; presenting 
an animated scene of busy and useful industry. 







* Appendix, No. IV. 

§ An indifferent view of tliis House is given in the Beauties of England, v. xi — 
A view of the ancient Bridge mentioned p. 57, may be seen in Gilpin's Northern Tour, 
v. i. p. 38, and part of the fine view, noticed in the same page, is well given in one of the 
engravings of " Warwick Castle" a Poem, lately published. 



A WALK &c. 65 



View of the Town and Castle from Leamington Road. 



CHAP. VI. 



% Walk rounU iEarimcft. 

View of the Town and Castle from Leamington Road—from Tachbrooh Road- 
from the Nezo Bridge— from St. Nicholas' Meadow — from Blacklow Hill- 
front Coventry Road—from Guy's Cross Kill— from Hampton Hill- 
from Wedgenock Park — Distant Viezo of Kenilworth Castle. 



Jb ROM many points, in the immediate vicinity, the 
view of the Town and Castle of Warwick is highly 
picturesque and beautiful : and to some of these we shall 
proceed to direct the notice of the Stranger, in the course 
of a Walk, at a small distance round it. 

Passing over the New Bridge — and proceeding a 
little way on the Leamington Road — from this point, 
one of the finest views of Warwick presents itself, and 
displays, indeed, a scene of uncommon beauty and gran- 
deur.* In the fore-ground appears the rich meadows, 
through which the Avon gracefully takes its gentle and 
winding course : and, at a short distance, on the opposite 
bank, standing conspicuously forward to view, is the 
church of St. Nicholas, darkly shaded with trees behind. 
Near it is the Castellated Entrance of the Castle ; and, 

* This 'u the View of Warwick which is given in the present Wort, 

I 



66 A WALK ROUND 

View of the Town and Castle from Leamington Road. 

a little above, the small but elegant tower of St. Peter's 
Chapel. Further back to the right is the Priory, em- 
bosomed in its own beautiful woods : and, still further to 
the right, is the ancient Hospital of St. John, which, no 
pleasing object in itself, is well relieved by the interpos- 
ing shade of trees. The town is seen, scattered about, 
interspersed with wood, rising in the center ; and crowned 
with its noble tower of St. Mary's, ascending far above 
the richly variegated and extensive groves of the Castle. 
On the left, eclipsing by its solemn grandeur every other 
object, appears the CASTLE, proudly seated on a bold 
and elevated rock, and raising high its towers and bat- 
tlements above all the lofty and spreading trees, which 
encircle it, and lend the aid of their varied shades, to 
diversify and enrich the prospect. The majestic tow T ers 
of C^sar, on the one side, and of Guv, on the other, 
with the grand embattled Gate-way in the middle, richly 
clad in the thickest foliage, would of themselves form a 
fine and a complete picture. * The New Bridge, in the 
front, may seem, by its modern elegance, to disturb the 
harmony of the scene. It, besides, somewhat awkwardly 
interposes between the eye of the spectator and the view 
of the Castle. It is, however, a noble object in itself, 
stretching across the river with one mighty span of 105 
feet ; and contributes, perhaps, by the very contrast, to 
heighten the effect of the whole.- — Such are the outlines 
of the striking and beautiful scenery, which marks the 
approach to Warwick, on the eastern side ; and few 
persons, it is believed, have ever beheld it, entering into 
the town, especially for the first time, without something 



* This is given in the present Work. The same View may also be seen in Ireland's 
Vict, View, p. 13 1. and in The Beauties of England and Wales. 



WARWICK. 67 



View of the Town and Castle from Tachbrook Road. 

of those high-raised emotions, which, possibly, may be 
termed enthusiastic — but which he who has never felt, in 
contemplating views like this, is not to be envied. 

Perhaps, it may be considered as a defect in the 
view to which we have just pointed " that the modern 
and meaner buildings are too near; and, by their dis- 
tinctness, break and divide the whole too much into 
patches ; and thus impair the effect."— Let, then, the 
lover of picturesque scenery, remove from the Learning* 
ton Road; and, at the Bridge, turning on the left, let 
him proceed along the road that leads to Tachbrook. 
Here, on a rising ground, about a mile from the town, 
his eye will be gratified by a view, which, in all that 
constitutes a beautiful and impressive landscape, few can 
surpass. Being on the same side of the town, it is of 
course, in many respects, the same as the former; but 
here the prospect is more extensive ; in its several parts, 
more harmoniously blended ; and, in its whole effect, more 
strikingly grand. In this, as in the former view, appears 
in front St. Nicholas' Church, distinctly, yet not glar- 
ingly seen. The small tower of St. Peter's may be 
discerned a little above it, but almost concealed and lost 
in the verdant shade. The New Bridge scarcely appears, 
but its balustrade may be imperfectly seen. On the 
right, the Priori/ boldly discloses to view the summits 
of its spacious mansion, ascending above the beautiful 
groves, which encompass and adorn it. The ancient 
Hospital of St. Johns appears further to the right, partly 
screened from view, by its surrounding trees and shrubs. 
The noble tower of St. Marys Church majestically soars 
in the center, the most elevated object in the picture : 
even the nave and wings of that stately edifice rise to 

1 2 



6s A WALK ROUND 



View of the Castle from the New Bridge. 



view with just dignity. The Castle, super-eminently the 
glory of the scene, next presents itself to the astonished 
eye, in all its magnificence. The whole range of front, 
of ample breadth, and lofty height, displays itself, at 
once, with great effect : and its long line is finely broken 
and interspersed, by large and luxuriant trees, which 
throw their spreading arms about it, or push their aspir- 
ing tops above it. The towers and battlements, loftily 
rising, look with imposing grandeur. In front Ccesar's 
Tower presses forward to view ; whilst, behind it, Guys 
Tower ascends, as if in scorn, far above it, It is, however, 
a defect in this view, that these two magnificent towers 
are seen too much in the same straight line, and that the 
embattled Gateway is entirely lost to the sight. On the 
left appears the Maiden and other small towers. Still 
farther to the left, a new and a striking object is intro- 
duced, in the tower of St. James's Chapel ; bursting on 
the sight from the thickest of the woods, which seem to 
encompass it. Its antique form, and sombre hue truly 
harmonize with the solemn air of the Castle, and of the 
whole surrounding scene — which is shut in by a gently 
rising, and deeply wooded country, stretching to a con- 
siderable extent, on every side. 

Having thus surveyed two of the finest prospects, 
which the town and castle of Warwick presents on its 
eastern and southern side — we shall next, conduct the 
Stranger to one or two that may be seen, on the northern 
and north-eastern side. 

Repassing the New Bridge — he will hence see, in 
near and striking view, the Castle, with all its beautiful 
scenery — the winding waters, the towering trees, and es- 



WARWICK. 69 



View of Wane ick from St. Nicholas Meadow— from Guys Ciiff. 



pecially the prodigious rock on which it stands, and to 
which it seems united, rather by the hand of nature than 
that of human art. It is this view,* which, oftener per- 
haps than any other, is chosen by the numerous artists, 
whether amateurs or professors, who are so frequently at- 
tracted hither, in search of grand or pleasing subjects for 
the exercise of the pencil. — Removing from the bridge 
towards the town, on the right, are the fertile meadows of 
St. Nicholas ; in the more distant parts of which, the 
stranger, desirous of seeing it in all its different points, 
may obtain another view,§ remarkably fine, of the town 
and the Castle, on the one side, and the river, with its 
noble Bridge, on the other. The rich woods which every 
where encircle the town, and those especially which sur- 
round the Castle, from this point, appear disposed in a 
manner singularly striking and beautiful. 

Hence, passing the Church, and bending to the 
right, let the stranger next proceed along the Coventry 
road, till he reach the neighbourhood of Guy's Cliff. 
Here, turning, through a small gate, into a spacious field, 
on the right, his eye will be gratified by a view, entirely 
different from all the former ; and which, for fine and 
picturesque effect, may be considered as even superior. 
From this point the Castle and the Churches of St. Mary 
and St. Nicholas, rising from the bosom of stately and 
spreading trees, present the appearance of a rich and 
beautiful cluster of towers and groves ; nor is this fine 
assemblage injured by the obtrusion of any modern or 
meaner buildings. It is in scenes, like this, where, if less 

* This View may be seen in Ireland's Picturesque Views on the U «ra ickshire 
Avon, p. 140. 

§ This View is also given in the same Work, p. 129. 



70 A WALK ROUND 



View of the Town and Castle from Blacklow Hill— from Guys Cross Hill. 



is disclosed to the eye, that more is left to the imagination ; 
and what the imagination touches, it generally embellishes 
and improves. Hence, probably, it is that the partial 
view of towers and battlements " bosom'd high in tufted 
trees,*' according to the idea of the great Poet, or al- 
most concealed in the deep shade of woods, produces a 
greater impression on the mind, than the uninterrupted 
view of larger parts of the building, or the full display of 
the whole edifice at once. 

Nearly the same view of Warwick, as that just 
noticed, may be seen, to great advantage, from the top of 
Blacklow Hill, at a short distance farther, on the Coven- 
try road. — From this eminence, also, a striking view is 
seen of Guy's Cliff 1 House, deeply ambushed in towers of 
its own ancient groves, with the " softly flowing Avon " 
winding along, in a great length of course, through the fine 
tract of country, which it fertilizes and adorns. Near the 
summit of this hill, the stranger may read, commemora- 
tive of the melancholy event which here took place, the 
following inscription, cut in the rock, c( P. Gaveston, 
Earl of Cornwall, beheaded 1311."* 

Leaving the neighbourhood of Guy's Cliff, and 
returning towards the town, on reaching the summit of a 
gentle ascent, in the road, the towers and woods of War- 
wick again present themselves in nearer, but striking view.^ 
This rising ground is still remembered by the name of 
Guy's Cross Hill — probably from an ancient Pillar, 
erected on it, which certainly once existed, though it has 



* The letters are of modern form : and the date is erroneous. It ought to he 1312. 
§ This view is noticed as finelj picturesque, by Mr. Warner. See Norther* 
Tour, vol. ii. p. <ZS7, 



WARWICK. 71 



View of Warwick from Hampton~on-the-HilL 

long since " perished 'mid the wreck of things that were." 
To this pillar, as story tells, the celebrated Hero of the 
Cliff, was accustomed to repair, for the purpose either of 
indulging his pious meditations, or of venting his amorous 
effusions.* — - At the foot of this descent is a small gate, on 
the right, which leads, by a delightful walk, through the 
Priory Park, into the central parts of the town. 

To the stranger — if an admirer of picturesque 
associations of what is grand or beautiful in nature with 
what is noble or pleasing in works of human art — it will, 
perhaps, be no unacceptable service, if we venture to 
point out two other views, more distant than the former, 
by which, it is presumed, he will not fail to be consider- 
ably interested and gratified. 

For the first of these — let him proceed along the 
Henley road, on the southern edge of the Race-course, 
as far as Hampton ; and here, from the brow of a hill, 
just at the entrance of the village, a complete and well- 
united view of Warwick, with all its principal objects, 
will be presented before him. The situation of the 
town, finely seated on its rocky eminence, is here dis- 
tinctly seen. St. Mary's still the central and the highest 
object, supported and adorned by the woods and towers 
of the Castle on the one side ; r.nd those of the Priory, 



* This Filler is thus humorously noticed in tin old poem entitled Iter Borealc, writ- 
'*"!n !a 1618, by Richard Corsbtt, Bishop first of Oxford, then of Norwich : — 

Beyond this, in the road way as wee went, 

A pillar stands, where this Colossus If ant ; 

Where he would sigh, and love, and, lor heart's ease, 

Ofiinics write verses, (some say) such as these : 

" Here will [ languish, in thi3 silly bowei," 

• f Whilst ruy true love tri!!Rjphes in yun high tower/ 



72 A WALK ROUND 

View of Warwick from Wedgenock Park. 

i i " " inn i "7 7 

and the Priori/ itself on the other • the spire of St. Nicho- 
las, the tower of St. Peter's behind, and that of St. James 
in front, present a rich and well composed landscape, 
surrounded on all sides by a tract of high cultivation ; 
beyond which opens a view of the Northamptonshire 
hills on the left, and those of Gloucestershire and Wor- 
cestershire on the right — till the eye is lost in the wide 
horizon. 

For the second of these more distant views — let 
the lover of beautiful prospects proceed through the 
grounds, near the Priory, called the Pigwells, across 
the Saltsford common, and along the road which leads 
to the Old Park, anciently the celebrated Wedgenock ; 
but now converted to the purposes of agriculture ; though 
in one small inclosure, a herd of deer is still kept. As- 
cending a somewhat steep acclivity, passing by a farm- 
house on the summit, and turning into the fields, on the 
right — from the high ground, on which he will now find 
himself — the spectator will command, in grand prospect, 
before him, a rich, varied and extensive landscape. The 
situation of Warwick, elevated above the tract immedi- 
ately around, and yet itself embosomed within a circuit 
of gently-rising hills, appears strikingly beautiful ; and 
nothing can exceed the richness and grandeur of the trees, 
rising with majestic loftiness, or spreading their deepening 
shades, in wide expanse, on every side. The Castle, the 
Church, the Priory, the Chapel, being now removed to 
a considerable distance, lose all the discrimination of 
minuter parts, and melt into one fine and general mass 
of light and shade. The foreground is occupied by a 
tract of pleasing and fertile country, intersected with 
flourishing hedges, and adorned with numerous and well- 



WARWICK. 7:> 



Distant View of Kenilworth Castle. 



grown trees. Behind, and on every side, a country of 
nearly the same description extends, including the villages 
of Cubbington, Lillington, Offchurch, Radford, ZJfton, 
Harbury, Chesterton, Tachbrook, and Barford. In the 
distance are seen the hills of Napton, those of Shuckburgh 
Park, near Dav entry, and the Edge Hills dividing this 
county from Oxfordshire, on the one side ; and the lofty 
Breedon and Broadway, on the other. 

After having sufficiently contemplated this view 
— let the spectator turn in an opposite direction ; and, 
moving only a few steps, he will be equally surprised and 
delighted to see, in full prospect before him, the ruins of 
Kenilworth Castle, This stupendous pile, even at this 
distance, presents a grand appearance ; rearing its ivied 
summits, above the deep and solemn shades, which sur- 
round it. On one side appears the village of Kenilworth, 
with its spired Church, its ruined Priory, and its scattered 
habitations, pleasingly interspersed with wood. In the 
front is Goodrest, a substantial farm-house, built on the 
site of the ancient manor house, belonging to JVed^enock 
Park. It was so called, as Dugdale conjectures, be- 
cause some of the Countesses of Warwick were accus- 
tomed, during the period of childbirth, for the sake of 
quiet seclusion, to retire to this place ; where, it appears 
upon record, many of their children were born. In 
the distance, may be discerned, besides several village, 
churches, the three spires of Coventry. — It will be thought, 
not a little remarkable that, from the same station, should 
thus be obtained a view at once of two of the most anci- 
ent and most magnificent Castles in the kingdom — the 
one Still towering in all its pride and pomp — the other 
fallen prostrate, yet exhibiting venerable marks of former 
power and splendour, in its grand and av»ful ruins. 

K 



»T4 TRADE OF 



Royal Mint in the time of the Anglo-Saxons. 



CHAP. VII. 



€ta&e of 3©arimc&, 

Ancient Mint— former Stuff Manufactory — present state of general Trade—* 
Hat Manufactory — Worsted Manufactory — Cotton Weaving — and Cotton 
Spinning Manufactory — Lace Manufactory— 'Navigation Mill. 



JO ROM all remaining records, it does not appear that 
Warwick was ever distinguished in ancient times, as the 
seat of any extensive or important manufactory. Yet the 
fact must not be entirely omitted here, though it may not 
strictly belong to the subject, that in the age of the Anglo- 
Saxons, a Royal Mint was certainly established in this 
town. This is decisively proved by the curious coin of 
Hardicanute, mentioned in an early part of this work ;* 
and also from two other coins, one of Canute, and the 
other of Harold II. minted here ; of both which un- 
doubted specimens still remain. In proof of the same 
fact, the authority of the celebrated John Rous may also 
be adduced, who gives the following account of this royal 
mint. It was established, he says,|| in the eastern part 
of Warwick, as he discovered from certain records, pre- 
served in the Collegiate Church of St. Mary ; in which 
he frequently read the names of Baldred, Everard, 
and other moneyers. He further adds, as what he had 



* See page 3. 

|| " Warwiciensium prioribus temporibits omagium erat ad oricntem,<$;c. n Rous p. 194, 



WARWICK. 75 



Former Stuff' Manufactory* 



clearly ascertained, that the place, where the Vicars of 
the College lived, in his time, was the very place where 
the persons employed, in this ancient mint, resided. It 
is, indeed, sufficiently known, that, in the time of the 
Anglo-Saxons, there were mints in most of the counties 
of England : nor was it till after the reign of William 
the Conqueror, that the business of coining was carried 
on principally in the Tower of London; as it now is in the 
New Mini, erected on the eastern side of Tower Hill. 

But if from early, we descend to later times — so 
far as the present researches have been able to discover, 
it appears that, for many ages after the Norman conquest, 
the whole trade of Warwick was limited to the single 
object of supplying the wants of the inhabitants, and 
those of the immediate vicinity : nor was there any article, 
the produce of human ingenuity or labour, that could ob- 
tain for it celebrity, as a commercial or manufacturing 
town. About the beginning of the last century, however, 
we find a manufactory established, in this place, for the 
making of cheneys and arrotines ; and this was conducted, 
according to the notion of the times, on a scale of very 
considerable magnitude. It even appears that a large 
proportion of the poorer inhabitants were then engaged 
in the business of weaving these stuifs ; and that in almost 
every house, belonging to the labouring class, three or 
four wheels were constantly employed in spinning, for the 
use of the weavers. But this manufactory has since gra- 
dually declined ; nor, till within a very few late years, 
have the views of trade in general extended, in any 
other direction, beyond the demands, which the daily 
necessities of civilized life create, within the precincts of 
the town itself, and the surrounding country. With that 

k 2 



?6 TRADE OF 



Present State of Trade — Hat Manufactory. 

increased population, however, which we have before 
noticed, even this source of trade must of course have 
opened for itself a wider and deeper channel : and when 
the great resort of nobility and gentry to the neighbour- 
ing Spa of Leamington is further considered ; it will 
not surprise the Reader to be told, that the number of 
shops, within the last twenty years, has greatly multi- 
plied, and that the quantity of internal trade has been 
nearly doubled. 

But it must now be added that, of late years, some 
of the more enterprising traders of Warwick have enlarged 
their views ; and entered into several branches of the 
wholesale trade, particularly that of linen and cotton. A 
considerable Manufactory of Hats, of very superior excel- 
lence, has, also, been carried on, for several years, under 
the direction of Messrs. Lamb. Near the Back Hill, an 
Iron Foundry was established, in the year 1810, by Mr. 
T. Roberts who has obtained much reputation for the 
making of all sorts of machinery. The Canal, too, brought 
from Birmingham to this place, and continued thence to 
Napton, Braunston and London, has opened new and 
important sources of trade, particularly in corn and coal. 
But, for its great increase of reputation as a trading town, 
Warwick is principally indebted to the establishment of 
the four folio wins: Manufactories — of which we shall 
proceed to give some account — concluding with a short 
notice of the newly erected Navigation Mill. 

THE WORSTED MANUFACTORY. 

The first in magnitude, though not in order of 
time, is the Worsted Spinning Manufactory , which was 
first established in 1796, under the firm of Parkes, 



WARWICK. 77 



Wo r sted — Cotton, Weaving Manufactory. 

Brookhouse and Crompton. A large and commodious 
building has been erected, furnished with every conve- 
nience for carrying it on, in the most complete manner : 
and the main building is surrounded by others, adapted 
to the various purposes connected with this great under- 
taking. The works are put in motion by means of a 
Steam Engine, erected by Messrs. Bolton and Co. of 
which the power is equal to that of thirty horses. The 
number of hands employed is about 500. The wool is 
here conducted from the fleece, through all the successive 
processes of sorting, washing, combing, dying, and spin- 
ning into worsted and yarn, both of finer and coarser 
qualities. The former is for the hosiery ; and the latter 
for the carpet manufactory. The worsted finds its prin- 
cipal markets at Leicester, Hinckley, and Nottingham ; 
and the yarn at Kidderminster. 

THE COTTON WEAVING MANUFACTORY. 

This was established in 1797, under the firm of 
Messrs. Parker. Extensive and well-adapted buildings 
have been erected for the purpose of carrying it on, in 
large and open grounds, near the Oil Mill Lane. The 
number of hands employed is about 200. Here, the cot- 
ton is woven into various articles, as dimities, calicoes, 
fustians, velveteens, and velverets. The raw material 
is chiefly procured from Manchester ; and the manufac- 
tured goods are returned to the same place, as the great 
mart for sale. 

the cotton spinning manufactory. 
This manufactory was established in the year 
1792 at Emscote, about a mile from Warwick, but within 
the precincts of the borough, under the firm of Messrs. 



78 TRADE OF, &c. 

Cotton Spinning — Lace Manufactory — Navigation Mill. 

Smart. Tlie works are carried on partly by means of 
water and partly by that of steam. The number of hands 
employed is about 50. The raw material is chiefly 
procured at London and Liverpool : and when spun is 
sent to Manchester. 

LACE MANUFACTORY. 

This manufactory, established in 1810, is carried 
on under the firm of Nunn, Brown, and Freeman. The 
lace is made entirely by machinery, for which a patent 
was obtained in 1811 ; and is considered as equal in every 
valuable quality, to that which is made, in the usual way, 
by hand. It is of all the various kinds known by the 
name of common Bobbin, Mechlin, and Valenciennes 
lace. It is made both of British and Foreign thread ; 
and the lace is principally sent to London for the supply 
of the home trade and also for exj^ortation. About 80 
hands are employed in this manufactory. 

navigation mill. 

This is situated near the Navigation Bridge, on 
the Emscote Road. It was erected in the year 1805, by 
Messrs. Tomes and Handley. The wheel is of that kind 
which is called back-shot, and is turned by the superfluous 
water, flowing from the TVarwick and Napion Canal, 
down a fall of 27 feet, and thence runs into the Avon. This 
great wheel is of cast iron and excellent construction, 
which does credit to the maker, Mr. Roberts, of PVarwick; 
measuring in diameter 24 feet. The mill is furnished 
with five pair of stones ; three of which are kept con- 
stantly in motion. The apparatus is, in every part, well 
constructed : and the contrivance is singularly good for 
loading and unloading. This mill is capable of grinding and 
dressing, for bread flour, upwards of 300 bushels per day. 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS, &c. 79 



County Hall. 



CHAP. VIII, 



County Hall — Court House — Market House — New Bridge — It on Bridge- 
Theatre — Public Library — College School. 



F the principal public buildings of Warwick, as 
enumerated in a former part of this work, we shall here 
subjoin a short account — reserving, for distinct chapters, 
that of the County Gaol and County Bridewell. 

THE COUNTY KALL. 

This is a spacious and magnificent building, de- 
signed and finished under the direction of Messrs. J. and 
H. Hiorne, architects of Warwick, about the year 17/6*. 
Its elegant stone front is supported by a range of pillars 
of the Corinthian order, and the intervals are ornamented 
with festoons of flowers. On each side of the grand 
entrance are two niches, intended for the reception of 
statues ; but these are still unoccupied : and over it, a 
space is left, apparently designed for some appropriate 
inscription, which still remains a blank. — Ascending a 
flight of stone steps, through large folding doors, is the 
entrance into a noble room, of lofty elevation and just 
proportion, which measures 94 feet in length and 3G m 
breadth. At each extremity, in semi-circular recesses, 



so PUBLIC BUILDINGS 

Court- House. 

properly fitted up, crowned with handsome cupolas, and 
surrounded by convenient galleries, are held the two 
Courts of Justice: one, on the right, for the decision of 
criminal, and the other for that of civil causes. Between 
them, is a room, for the accommodation of the servants, 
and attending officers of the court. Above, is the apart- 
ment for the occasional retirement of the petty juries : 
and adjoining to it, is the Grand Jury Chamber. — In this 
great Hall, besides the assizes, the quarter sessions are 
held ; all county meetings are convened ; and, once a 
year, at the time of the races, it is converted into a ball- 
room. The stone floor is then covered by a boarded one ; 
the circular recesses are fitted up in the manner of card- 
rooms ; the pillars are encircled with wreaths of lamps ; 
and the whole solemn appearance of a court of justice is 
changed into the brilliant and sportive scene of gaiety 
and fashion. 

THE COURT HOUSE. 

This stately building was erected about 1 730, under 
the direction of John Smith, an architect of considerable 
celebrity, at the expence of the Corporation. For this, 
however, under the charge of a misapplication of the 
public money, they were summoned to appear in the Court 
of Chancery; and were suspended from the exercise of all 
their power and privileges : to which they were not 
restored till the year 1738. It is, indeed, a spacious and 
handsome edifice ; but not more so, it will now be thought, 
than suitable to the dignity of such a corporate town as 
that of Warwick. The principal entrance is from Jury- 
Street. On the ground floor, are two apartments of ample 
space. In that, on the right hand, the Mayor and Alder- 
men hold their assemblies. In this room, is a good 



OF WARWICK. 81 



Market- House — New Bridge. 



portrait of Hen. VIII. who, out of the spoils of the 
ruined monasteries, bestowed upon this town so many 
valuable benefactions. It is the gift of John Bohun 
Smyth, Esq. the present Mayor. Opposite is the Court 
Room, properly fitted up for the purpose of holding the 
borough sessions. On the second floor, is the principal 
apartment, which is spacious, well-proportioned, and ele- 
gantly fitted up — measuring 60 feet by 2/. It is furnished 
with cut-glass chandeliers, large and beautiful. At one 
extremity is the orchestra; and there is a card-room 
adjoining. In this great room, annual entertainments 
are given by the Mayor ; public meetings are convened ; 
public lectures on philosophical and other subjects occa- 
sionally delivered ; and here, the winter dancing assem- 
blies, held monthly, at least till lately, were usually graced 
with all the beauty and fashion of the county. 

THE MARKET-HOUSE. 

This, like all the other public buildings, is sub- 
stantial and good. The lower and open part is appro- 
priated to the use of those, who attend the market. The 
upper apartments are chiefly used for the purpose of 
storing the arms and accoutrements, belonging to some 
of the military corps of the county. From the summit, 
a bird's-eye-view of the town may be obtained, and a 
fine prospect of the surrounding country. 

THE NEW BRIDGE. 

About the year 1785, the old Gothic Bridge over 
the Avon, near the Castle, which was narrow and incon- 
venient, was found, also, to be much out of repair. An 
Act of Parliament was therefore obtained for the erection 
of a new one ; and for the alteration, in consequence, of 

i 



8-2 PUBLIC BUILDINGS 

' ' i — 

Iron Bridge, 

the public road to Daventry and Banbury, from its former 
to its present direction. The Bridge consists of one 
grand arch 3 forming the segment of a circle, measuring 
in its span^ 105 feet, in its breadth 36, and in its height 
to the rise of the arch 25. It is built in a chaste style of 
simple elegance, which does honour to the architect, 
William Ebboral, a native of Warwick, who died very 
soon after its completion in 1790. The stone of which it 
is constructed, was procured, and conveyed in boats, from 
the Rock Mill near Emscote. The whole expence amounted 
to ^4,000 ; which was defrayed by the Earl of Warwick, 
assisted by the sum of ^1,000 from the Corporation. 
But no inscription records either the date of the erection, 
the name of the artist, or that of the noble person at 
whose expence chiefly it was built. In no long time after 
the finishing of this noble bridge, the old one gave way 
to the overwhelming force of a great flood ; and it is left, 
by the taste of its noble owner, in its present ruinous 
state, as a striking addition to the scenery of the vene- 
rable castle, 

THE IRON BRIDGE. 

This light and handsome Bridge, consisting of 
one arch, which measures in its span 24 feet, was erected 
in 1804, over the road, cut out of the solid rock, leading 
from the Market -Place to the Saltsford. It was a pre- 
sent to the town from one of its members, Charles 
Mills, Esq.. and it would be ungrateful not to acknow- 
ledge how much the inhabitants are indebted, on this and 
many other occasions, to the zeal and liberality, with 
which that gentleman has ever directed his attention to 
all that concerns the improvement and the prosperity of 
the place, which he has so long represented in Parliament. 



OF WARWICK. 83 



Theatre — Public Library. 



THEATRE. 

This building, though small in extent, sufficiently 
affords all the accommodation required: and, though 
humble in its external appearance, is neatly and conveni- 
ently fitted up within. It is always opened, during the 
week of the races ; and occasionally, at other times. The 
character of the performers is, in general, nearly the 
same as that of most of those, who tread the boards of a 
provincial theatre. But not unfrequently some of the 
more eminent actors on the British stage have condes- 
cended to display their talents, on this humbler scene. 

PUBLIC LIBRARY. 

This literary institution was first established in the 
year 1/92. It is supported by Unnual subscription, and 

the number of its members is now above 100. The pay- 
ment of two guineas entitles to a share hi its property, 
which is transferable at pleasure. It is placed under the 
management of a committee, consisting of seven persons, 
chosen* annually by ballot. The collection of books i^ 
now considerable, and, upon the whole, well-chosen ; 
consisting chiefly of works in the various branches of 
modern literature. The room, in which they are placed, 
situated at the extremity of the Market Place, is not 
considered as very commodious. But it may be expected 
that the public spirit, which has lately displayed itself 
in so many important improvements of the town, will 
in due time, be directed to the object of providing; a more 
detached and suitable apartment, not unworthy of beim** 
compared with others of a similar description, which have 
been appropriated or erected, in so many towns in various 
parts of the kingdom. This prevailing and increasing 
attention to public institutions^ ^o intimately connected 

L 2 



84 PUBLIC BUILDINGS 



College School. 



with the general diffusion of knowledge, may he regarded, 
indeed, as one of the most auspicious circumstances, in 
the aspect of modern times, in this enlightened and 
favoured country. 

COLLEGE SCHOOL. 

This building, situated in the Butts, is of considerable 
size and antique appearance. It is built in the form of 
a quadrangle, encompassing a court, and having a clois- 
ter, or passage, both on the first and second floor, nearly 
all round it. It was originally begun by Richard Beau- 
champ, Earl of Warwick, in the reign of Henry VI. 
and finished by his executors. It was designed for the 
residence of the Dean and Canons of the ancient Colle- 
giate Church oj St. Marys ; and a piece of ground lately 
given to it by the Earl of Warwick, is still called the 
deanery. There is an excellent garden adjoining, sur- 
rounded by a high wall. — The present institution owes its 
foundation to Henry VIII. ; and its purpose is to provide, 
free of expence, for the education of all the native chil- 
dren of the town, who chuse to avail themselves of this 
advantage. But as the course of instruction, prescribed by 
the statutes, includes only the learned languages, its 
Utility, as a free school, for the purposes of general edu- 
cation, is of course very limited.— The salary of the 
master, who must be a clergyman of the Church of 
England, was originally fixed at ^20 : but, at subsequent 
periods, was raised, first to ^40, and next to Jzfb. 
An assistant teacher has also been since appointed, with 
a salary, first of ^£\2, afterwards advanced to ^£30. To 
these salaries further additions have been made, by the 
will of Mr. W. Viner and Mr. T. Oaken. — In the year 
1723, by the will of Mr. Fulke Weal, a native of the 



OF WARWICK. 85 



College School. 



town, and one of its great benefactors, two estates were 
left in trust, the one at Langly and the other at Hampton- 
on-the-Hill ; for the purpose of providing two exhibitions, 
each of them now of the annual value of ^/0, to be 
given to two young men, natives of the town, towards 
defraying the expence of their education at Oxford, for 
the space of seven years. 




--Trt 



86 CHARITIES 



Henry the Eighth's Charity. 



CHAP. IX. 



€fyaniu$. 

Henry the Eighth's — Sir Thomas White s — Oaken s — Griffin s — Various. 



J. HE estates and monies appropriated to charitable and 
other public uses, for the benefit of the town of Warwick, 
are very considerable ; of which we now propose to give 
some account — beginning with those which are intended 
for charitable and other public purposes more generally — 
proceeding, in the following chapter, to those which are 
assigned to the specific purpose of supporting hospitals- 
schools — and alms-houses. 

HENRY THE EIGHTH'S CHARITY. 

At the general dissolution of the monasteries, in 
the reign of Henry VIII. several valuable grants were 
made, by letters patent, to the corporate body of Warwick. 
These consist of the rectories of St. Mary and St. Nicho- 
las, in the borough ; the rectories of Budbroke in this 
county, and of Chaddesley in Worcestershire ; and various 
houses and lands belonging to these rectories, amounting 
in the whole, at this present time, to the annual rental 
of ^2,335. After the necessary charges are paid, under 
the various heads of taxes, repairs, and improvements, 
the remaining sum can scarcely fall much short of 
^2,000 per annum : out of this large fund, the annual 



AT WARWICK. s; 

- ■ i Y | i ; i 

Sir Thomas White s Charity. 

stipends are paid to the vicar of St. Marys and St. Nicho- 
las, to the assistant Preacher at the former ; to the Vicar 
of Budbrook, to the Master and Usher of the Free 
School ; to the Clerk and other officers of St. Mary's ; and 
to the Mayor and other officers of the borough — amount- 
ing in the whole to about ^=660 per annum. The remain- 
ing sum is expended in repairs of the churches and other 
public buildings ; in the improvement of the town ; in 
providing relief for the aged and other poor ; and in bind- 
ing out orphan or indigent children as apprentices. 

SIR THOMAS WHITE'S CHARITY. 

By an agreement made in 155 1, between Sir 
Thomas White, Alderman of London, and the Corpo- 
ration of the city of Coventry, the sum of <^ 1,400 was 
laid out in the purchase of lands, part of the possessions 
of the Priory lately dissolved, in the neighbourhood of 
that city. By the same agreement and by subsequent 
decrees of the Court of Chancery and the House of Lords, 
four-seventh parts of the nctt produce of these lands, is 
directed to be paid, once in every five years, to the 
Corporation of Warwick. — The share, belonging to this 
borough, now amounts to ^7,000 ; and a recent letting 
of the estates has produced so considerable an increase of 
rental, that the future periodical payments to Warwick, 
will be upwards of ^800. — The object of this great and 
growing fund is to assist young tradesmen, ft inhabitants , 
being of good fame," setting up in business, by the free 
loan of ^50, on finding good security for nine years. — 
But owing to the smallness of the original sum, compared 
with the present value of money, the utility of this cha- 
rity is much circumscribed. The Trustees for the appro- 
priation of this money are the Corporation. 



88 CHARITIES 



Oaken s Charity — Griffin's Charity. 



OAKEN S CHARITY. 

Mr. Thomas Oaken, a native of Warwick, from 
a low origin, by industry and success in his trade, which 
was that of a mercer, raised himself to a respectable 
rank, and acquired an affluent fortune. On his death in 
1573, he left, vested in certain feoffees, several estates, 
situated in Warwick, Badsley, Beausall and Harbury, 
amounting in the whole to the value of about ^£350. 
Amongst the various purposes for which these estates 
were given, the following annual payments are some — 
^£2 to a schoolmaster to teach poor children ; — ^Qa to 
the poor ; 6s. Sd. for a sermon ; 3s. Ad. to the poor, and 
20s. for a dinner after it ; 20s. for paving the Market 
Place ; 5 s. towards a bonfire on St. Peter's and St. 
Johns day ; 3s. Ad. to the herdsman ; AQs. for four ser- 
mons at St. Mary's, &c. &c. After the payment of these 
and some other specified sums, the remainder is to be laid 
out, first in the repairs of the bridges and highways ; and 
the surplus, if any, devoted to the relief of the poor, 
and the improvement of the town. He left also ^10O 
for the purpose of enlarging the commons, and several 
pieces of plate, for the use of the Bailiff and Burgesses, 
who are his feoffees. 

griffin's charity. 

A considerable estate, situated partly at the Bridge- 
End, and partly at Myton, within the limits of the bo- 
rough, was given, for the benefit of the poor inhabitants, 
by Mr. R. Griffin, who was a mercer and a principal 
burgess. The annual value at present falls not much 
short of ^200. It is distributed in small sums of 10s. or 
20s. at the discretion of the trustees, who are usually 
four respectable tradesmen. 



AT WARWICK. 89 

Charitable Benefactions. 



VARIOUS CHARITIES. 

Besides the larger charities, just enumerated, other 
charitable benefactions remain to be noticed ; which may 
be arranged under the five following heads — for providing 
food and clothing for the poor— for putting out poor 
children apprentices — for buying coals for the use of the 
poor — for the relief of poor widows — and for general pur- 
poses of charity, at the discretion of trustees. Of the par- 
ticulars referred to under these general heads, an account 
will be found in the Appendix.* That account is taken 
from printed tables ; according to which, many years ago, 
the aggregate amount of these various charitable donations 
fell little short of ^300. per aim. By additional be- 
quests, or by improved rents, in the case of houses and 
lands, the annual amount is, probably, at this time, very 
considerably more. 




* Appendix, No. 5. 



M 



go CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 



Chapel School. 



CHAP* X. 



€Ija«taMe ^institutions?. 

Chapel School — School of Industry — Sunday Schools — Lying-in Charity— 
Okens Alms Houses — Iffeler's Alms Houses — West Gate Alms Houses 
^Puckering's Alms Houses — Saltsford Alms Houses — Yard-leys Alms 
House — St. Mary^s Poor House — St. Nicholas* Poor House. 



vJ^F the various charitable institutions established and 
supported in Warwick, for the instruction of friendless 
ignorance, or for the relief of aged or helpless poverty, 
we propose to give some account in the present chapter. 

CHAPKL SCHOOL. 

In this small but elegant building, besides two 
commodious school rooms, are apartments for the resi- 
dence of the master and mistress. The boys, to the 
number, at present, of 39, are taught reading, writing, 
and arithmetic ; the girls, in number 36, are taught read- 
ing, writing, knitting, and sewing. Of these, 24 boys, and 
24 girls, are indebted, for their education, to the charitabl v e 
bequest of the Honourable Sarah Greville ; 12 girls 
to that of Earl Brooke.; 13 boys to that of Mr. T. 
Oken, and 2 boys to that of Mr. F. Weale. The first 
48 of these are clothed in a uniform dress of blue and 



AT WARWICK. 91 



School of Industry. 



yellow; the 12 girls next mentioned, are clothed in grey; 
and the 13 succeeding boys receive a coat and a pair of 
stockings annually. The whole school is invited to par- 
take of an annual dinner, commonly called Chen's Feast, 
which usually takes place in the month of September. 

SCHOOL OF INDUSTRY. 

This excellent institution was established, and is 
still chiefly supported, under the patronage of the Coun- 
tess of Warwick, by the benevolent exertions and vo- 
luntary subscriptions of several Ladies, residing in Warwick, 
or its vicinity ; aided by a collection, made after an annual 
Charity Sermon, at St. Marys. The object of it is, to 
provide for the education of poor girls, and to form them 
to habits of virtuous order and industry. The school- 
room is situated in Castle-Street ; and is light and aii y. 
It is in the very house, formerly the residence of Mr. 
Oxen, so often mentioned in these pages, as one of the 
great benefactors of the town. The number of girls is 
usually about 40. They are completely clothed, and 
wear a uniform dress, consisting of a brown stuff gown, 
straw bonnet, &c. ; and are provided, at a very small 
charge, with a dinner, every day, at the school-room, from 
Michaelmas to Lady-Day. Besides reading, writing, and 
arithmetic, they are taught sewing of all kinds, knitting 
stockings, and spinning jersey and flax. Their earnings 
contribute to the support of the institution. They meet 
on the Sunday, as well as on other days, for the purpose 
of receiving religious instructions, and attending together 
divine service at St. Mary's. Four of the elder girls are 
employed as monitresses, nearly on the plan, first sug- 
gested by Dr. Bell, and afterwards adopted, enlarged, 
and pursued so zealously by Mr. Lancaster. 

m 2 



92 CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS 

Sunday Schools — Lying-in-Cha? ity. 

-■■' • ■ - 

SUNDAY SCHOOLS. 

These most useful and important institutions have 
received the same general attention, and the same zealous 
support at Warwick, as at so many other places through- 
out the kingdom — to the high honor of the present age ; 
and, as may reasonably and confidently be expected, to 
the great and lasting benefit of all future ages. Of these 
the first mention is due, as first in order of time, to the 
Sunday School belonging to St. Marys Church, in which 
about 65 boys and 80 girls are instructed in reading, and 
the great principles of religion. In this school the plan 
of Dr. Bell has been lately adopted with great success. — 
Into a second school, belonging to St. Nicholas' parish, 
about 30 boys and 40 girls are admitted — A third school, 
supported by the Presbyterian Dissenters, provides for the 
instruction of about 30 girls and 30 boys. — And a fourth 
school, belonging to the Independent Dissenters, receives 
no less than 120 boys and 100 girls ; all of whom are in- 
structed by the gratuitous services of 39 teachers. Of 
these thirteen attend in rotation every Sunday. — To the 
eye of enlightened benevolence, what a gratifying spec- 
tacle ! to see all the different sects, with the national 
establishment at their head, emulously, yet harmoniously, 
labouring in this great field of generous exertion, so long 
neglected, yet so promising of the richest fruits, in the 
general diffusion of useful knowledge and virtuous princi- 
ple, amongst the lowest, but largest, and most useful 
classes of the community. Prosperity to these, and to all 
similar institutions must surely be the ardent wish of 
every friend to human virtue and human happiness ! 

LYING-IN CHARITY, 

This excellent charity is of very recent institution ; 
but it has already found much encouraging support from 



AT WARWICK. 93 



Oken's and Iffeler' s Alms Houses. 



that female compassion, in which it originated, and to 
which it so peculiarly and powerfully recommends it- 
self. The whole management of it is placed under the 
direction of a Patroness, and of a committee, consisting 
of TO Ladies, chosen annually by ballot. Its object is to 
pre *de relief for poor married women, residing within 
the borough, during the time of confinement at their own 
houses. Every person applying, with proper recommen- 
dation, is entitled to the use of a set of child-bed linen 
for a month ; and receives also a pound of candles, a 
pound of soap, and, during the winter months, two hun- 
dred weight of coals. A sufficient supply of caudle is 
also to be provided, together with proper attendance, and all 
necessary medical advice. — The Patroness is the Lady of 
the Rev. Henry Wise ; there are now about 120 mem- 
bers, and the subscription amounts to nearly ^300. 

oken's alms houses. 

These houses, intended for the reception of six 
poor women, were originally situated in Pebble Lane, 
now New Street, but were destroyed by the great lire. 
The present houses were, afterwards, erected by the feof- 
fees of the same charity, on the Back Hill, for which 
the ground was given by Mr. N. Iffeler. From six, 
the number is now increased to twelve poor women : each 
of whom receives 2s. 6d. quarterly, and a black gown 
once in three years. The feoffees are the members of the 
Corporation. 

iffeler's alms houses. 

Nicholas Iffeler, a native of Westphalia, in 
Germany, settled in this borough as a glazier, became a 
principal burgess, and acquired a good fortune. He 



94 CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS 



West. Gate Alms Houses — Puckering's Alms Houses. 



erected an asylum, on the Back Hill, adjoining Oken's 
Alms Houses, for the reception of eight poor women ; 
each of whom receives 2s. id. quarterly, eight hundred of 
coals, and a gown annually. * 

WEST GATE ALMS HOUSES. 

These were established at the same time with 
Leicester's Hospital : and the buildings were part of those 
which once belonged to the two united Guilds of the 
Trinity and St. George. By whom they were appropriated 
to their present use does not appear. Into them, eight 
poor women are received, to each of whom is paid Is. id. 
quarterly, out of the estate of Sir Thomas Puckering,^ 

puckering's alms houses. 

Of these there are two, one situated in Cow Lane, 
and the other in Bridewell Lane, both founded by Sir 
Thomas Puckering: built, as Dugdale expresses it, of fair 
Ashler stone. They were both intended for the accommo- 
dation of poor and honest tradesmen ; in order to assist 
and encourage that industry, on which, as the inscription || 

* In the front of these buildings is the following Inscription : — 

»« Whereas 3 Alms Houses standing in Pebble- Lane in Warwick, which received 
" 6 poor persons, given by Mr. Thomas Okew deceased, vterc burnt by the Dreadful 
«• Fire upon the bth Day of September, 1694, these Alms Houses to receive 12 persons; 
" were by the charity of the said Thomas Oken, built upon the ground given by Sir 
" Nich. Iffeler, deceased, to the same charitable office, by the Feoffees of the said 
*' charity, upon the %0th day of May, Anno Dom. 1696" 

§ Of whom, see in the account of the Priory, where he resided, and where he died. 

|| This Inscription is as follows;— 

" Dom iiTicuIas hasce Thomas PucKEnixc, miles et Baronettus benevolo^ ntpote 
** amiciy viciivque in hune. Burgum afectu motus, (cujus mcliorem statum resqv.e secundiores 
* l ex animo cptit) sibique in hac parte Exccutoris munere fungi optimum rotus, dnm esset 
" cetatis adhuc medice, suis sumptibus in proprio fundo extrui curavit, industriaque (sine 
" qua urbes Burgique marcescunt) cxcitancLs, adaugendeque perpetuo dedicavit, An : 
" Sulutis, MDCXXXIIX." 



AT WARWICK. 95 

Saltsford Alms Houses — Yardleys Alms House. 

imports, the prosperity, not only of individuals, but of 
whole communities, so much depends. — About fifteen 
years ago the second of these alms houses, standing in 
Bridewell Lane, were given, in exchange for some lands 
of equal or superior value, situated within the neighbour- 
ing parish of Budbroohe. 

SALTSFORD ALMS HOUSES. 

These are situated near the remains of the ancient 
Church of St. Michael. They are four in number ; and 
are inhabited by eight poor women, to each of whom an 
allowance of 2s. 6d. is paid quarterly. These alms houses 
were founded also by Sir Thomas Puckering, out of 
whose estates the quarterly allowances are paid. 

yardley's alms house. 

This house, situated in the Saltsford, was given 
by Mr. John Yardley, for the use of poor women ; four 
of whom are received into it. There is a good garden 
adjoining. The Trustees are the Minister and the 
Churchwardens of St. Mary's* 

st. mary's poor house. 

This is situated in the Saltsford. The premises 
are airy and spacious, properly and commodiously fitted 
up. On the ground floor, are the apartments inhabited 
by the Master and Mistress ; a large common room, for 
the use of the poor inhabitants ; a good school-room, for 
the children ; and various convenient offices for baking, 
brewing, washing, and other domestic uses. In the up- 
per part are the lodging rooms. Behind is a piece of 
ground used for drying linen ; at the extremity of which 
ara two workshops, one for carding and spinning, in which 



96 CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS, &c. 

St. Mary's and St. Nicholas' Poor Houses. 

the women are chiefly employed ; arid the other for weav- 
ing, in which the men are employed. Of their earnings, 
2d. in every shilling is given, to encourage habits of indus- 
try. The whole house is kept in a state of perfect order 
and neatness, which does credit to the present Master and 
Mistress : the table is furnished with sufficient and whole- 
some food ; a large garden, at a small distance, affords 
abundant supplies of vegetables ; and, once a year, at 
Easter, every poor person receives a complete suit of new 
clothing, plain, but neat and comfortable- — almost every 
article of which is the produce of the manufactures, car- 
ried on within the house. The children are instructed 
in reading, and in the principles of religion ; prayers are 
said in the common room every evening ; and regular at- 
tendance is required on the public service of the Church 
on the Sunday. The number of poor inhabitants seldom 
exceeds 60, and does not often fall much short of 30. 
The whole expence is paid out of the parish rates. 

ST. NICHOLAS* POOR HOUSE. 

This occupies a very airy situation at the extremity 
of the Coton End, and has a large and productive garden 
adjoining. The number of its inhabitants seldom exceeds 
20 or 30 ; and these principally consist of women and 
children. They are chiefly employed in spinning. Good 
provision, in sufficient quantities is provided ; and every 
article of necessary clothing is furnished, when wanted 
The whole expence is paid out of the parish rates. 



LEICESTER'S HOSPITAL. 97 



Present edifice anciently the mansion pf tzco united Guilds. 



CHAP. XI. 



%eitt$tet'$ f$o^itah 

The present edifice — anciently the mansion of two united Guilds — granted, at 
the general dissolution, to Sir N. Le Strange— -appropriated and 
endozced by Dudley Earl of Leicester, for the purpose of a Hospital — 
Appointment of a Master — number of members— qualifications for admis- 
sion — regulations — great increase in the value of its endowments — new 
Act of Parliament in consequence — provision made for the reception of 
additional members, and increase of the Masters salary — present state 
of the buildings — and of the chapel. 



_DE SIDES the various charitable institutions, already 
noticed, an account still remains to be given of Leicester's 
Hospital, one of the first in magnitude and growing 
importance ; which is reserved, therefore, for the subject 
of a distinct chapter. 

This very ancient building, situated at the wes- 
tern extremity of High-Street, appears to have been 
originally the hall or mansion, belonging to the two 
united guilds, or lay fraternities, of the Holy Trinity and 
St. George. These were established in the reign of 
Rich. II. ; the former by William Hobkins, John 
Cooke, and eleven others, all inhabitants of Warwick; 
the latter by John de Dynelay and two others, also of 
Warwick. They had power to purchase estates ; to re- 
ceive other brethren into their fraternity ; and to build 
and found a chantry in the chapel, which stood over the 



98 LEICESTER'S HOSPITAL. 

I———.— ■ llll 1 llll I III I III III .III 

Appointment of Master — number of Brethren— Endowments. 

West Gate. The union of the two Guilds, certainly took 
place before the 10th of Hen. VI. ; though the precise 
period is not known : and in the reign of Hen. VIII. it 
appears, there were four priests, belonging to this frater- 
nity ; of whom two were employed to celebrate mass in 
St. Marys Church, a third in the chapel of St. Peter, 
and a fourth in their oAvn chapel of St. James. In the 
latter reign, when so many other religious institutions 
were dissolved, the united Guilds shared in the general 
fate; and, in the year 1551, their mansion was granted 
by Edw. VI. to Sir Nicholas Le Strange, Knight, 
and his heirs. But in the succeeding reign, it became 
the property of Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester — 
whether by purchase or otherwise does not appear — 
by whom it was converted into an asylum or hospital, 
for the reception of twelve indigent men, who are called 
brethren, together with a master who must be a clergyman 
of the church of England ; and, in preference to all others, 
if he offers himself, the vicar of St. Mary's. The land, with 
which it is endowed, was at that time valued at ^20Q. 
per ann. but the clear annual value at present falls little 
short of ^2,000. The vicarage of Hampton-in-Arden is 
in the gift of the brethren, who have hitherto usually 
bestowed it upon the master. 

The appointment of the master and of the bre- 
thren is vested in the heirs general of the noble founder^ 
who is, at this time, John Shelly Sydney, Esq. of 
Penshurst Place, in the county of Kent. In filling up 
the vacancies, as they occur, natives, or inhabitants for 
five years at least, of Warwickshire and Gloucestershire, 
alone are eligible ; and of these the priority of choice 
must fall upon such as are natives or inhabitants of the 



LEICESTER'S HOSPITAL. 99 

Qualifications for Admission — Internal regulations. 

five following places, each taken successively in the fol- 
lowing order — Warwick, Kenilworth, Str at ford-on- A von, 
Wooton-under-Edge, and Arlingham. In all cases the 
preference must be given to those, if any, who have been 
wounded or maimed in the service of their country. 
Every candidate must be in such circumstances of indi- 
gence as not to possess more than the value of ^g5 a year ; 
and he must, also, produce a written testimonial to his 
character from the minister and churchwardens of the 
parish, where he last resided. On their admission, all the 
members are required to wear an appropriate dress, con- 
sisting of a blue gown, with the crest of a bear and ragged 
staff fastened to the left sleeve : and, without this badge of 
distinction, they are forbidden to appear in public. — The 
whole institution is placed under the control of the Bishop, 
the Dean, and the Archdeacon of Worcester, who are 
the appointed visitors, and of the Recorders of Warwick 
and Coventry. 

Such were the regulations, established by the 
founder of Leicester's Hospital ; and these continued un- 
altered, till the year 1813; when, on the application of 
the Heir General, some important and beneficial changes 
were introduced by Act of Parliament. It had long been 
known that the clear annual rental of its estate greatly 
exceeded all that could be required for the comfortable 
support of the number of the brethren, hitherto admitted 
into the hospital. It had also been remarked, with regret, 
that the salary of the master, unalterably fixed, by the 
statutes of the founder, at ^50 per annum, was, for a 
person of the rank of a clergyman, a very inadequate 
provision ; though, as the original value of the estate was 
^200 a-year, it was the evident intention to give one- 



100 LEICESTER'S HOSPITAL. 

— — — — — — ggg — — — — — — — ■ ^— — i ——————— ——^ 

Increase of the Master s Salary — and of the number of Brethren, 

fourth of the rental, whatever might be its amount, to 
the master. But the introduction of the words "fifty 
pounds" defeated the intention ; and, according to the 
rules of law, left the master without the possibility of the 
smallest increase of income, however necessary to support 
the dignity of his station. To advance, therefore, the salary 
of the master, and to increase the number of the bre- 
thren, were the two great objects proposed by the new 
act. From the statement, laid before Parliament, it ap- 
pears that, after the payment of certain sums, under the 
head of taxes, coals, candles, kitchen expences, repairs of 
the hospital, and wages of the nurse, the brethren received 
about ^130 a year each. With a humane and generous 
regard to the interests of the present brethren, the act 
leaves them in the undisturbed possession of this large 
annual income ; but provides, on the admission of every 
new member, as vacancies occur, by death or otherwise, 
that the annual income of every such new member shall 
not exceed ^80 ; and that the surplus, being about ,^50 
per annum, shall be appropriated, one moiety to the gra- 
dual increase of the master's salary, till it amounts to ^400 
per annum ; and the other moiety to the formation of a 
fund for the support of additional members, who are to be 
admitted in succession, till the number of the whole is 
increased to twenty-two. The qualification of property, 
also, before fixed at ^5 per annum, is now very properly 
changed to ^50, being not more than a due proportion 
to the decreased value of money, and the increased pre- 
sent rental. After having provided for the establishment 
of these new and most important regulations, the act re- 
cites all the original statutes and ordinances of the foun- 
der, and declares them to be in force, and to continue so, 
without any abatement or variation whatever, 



LEICESTER'S HOSPITAL. 101 

Present State of the Edifice. 

The buildings of Leicester's Hospital, though 
rery ancient, as already mentioned, are still kept in good 
repair. They form a complete quadrangle, enclosing a 
court of considerable space, having a cloister or passage 
round two of its sides. Entering into this court, under a 
gate-way, the house, appropriated to the master, appears 
in front. This is spacious and good ; and, behind, is a 
large garden. On the right, are the stairs, leading to 
the lodgings of the Brethren ; each of whom has a sepa- 
rate and convenient apartment : besides which there is a 
large kitchen for common use. On the left, is the great 
hall, once the scene of splendid and even royal festivities ; 
which still retains striking marks of its ancient grandeur. 
It is, however, by the new Act of Parliament, soon to be 
converted to the humbler and more useful purpose of fur- 
nishing suitable apartments for the ten additional mem- 
bers. It measures 90 feet by 24 ; but, probably, once 
extended at each extremity much farther. There is an 
inscription, still preserved on one of its walls, importing 
that, in this hall, James I. was entertained in a manner 
becoming his high dignity, by Sir Fulk Greville, 
Chancellor of the Exchequer, Sept. 4, l6lf. 

Adjoining to Leicester's Hospital, and belonging 
to it, is St. James' Chapel. This was given by Roger de 
Newburg, in the reign of Hen. I. to the church of St. 
Mary, when it was made collegiate. It afterwards fell 
into disuse and decay. But in the reign of Rich. II. the 
advowson of it was granted * to the guild of St. George, 
by Thomas de Beauchamp, Earl of IVarwich, who built 



* In this grant it is called the Church of St. James; but ufiei wards the original 
appellation of Chapel was resumed. 



102 LEICESTER'S HOSPITAL. 

St. James' Chapel. 

the present chapel, or at least the tower of it. After the 
general dissolution, this Chapel, together with the Hall, 
and the other buildings, passed into the possession of Sir 
Nicholas Le Strange, and finally into that of Dudley, 
Earl of Leicester, by whom it was assigned to its present 
use. It is small, but well-proportioned and beautiful ; 
handsomely fitted up, and kept in the most perfect order, 
for the use of the brethren, the master, and his family, 
who daily assemble here for morning and evening prayer, 
except on those days when service is performed at St, 
Mary's, where their attendance is then required. Round 
it, are hung the statutes of the Founder, which are ap- 
pointed to be publicly read once every year; and, also, 
on the admission of every new member.— At the eastern 
extremity is the Communion Table ; over which is a good 
picture of the Ascension, painted by Millar, a pupil of 
Sir Joshua Reynolds, and an artist of considerable 
talent and reputation. 




ST. MARY'S CHURCH. 103 



Founded prior to the Conquest— made Collegiate by H. de Ncwburg. 



CHAP. XII. 



g>u 0?arpg Cijurrf)* 

Early history — destruction by the great fire — re-erection— the tower— the 
interior — monuments in the north and south transepts — retnains of the 
second Thomas Beauchamp's monument — the choir — grand monument of 
the first Thomas Beauchamp — other monuments — the lobby — the chapter- 
house — monument of Fulk Lord Brooke — the vestry-room. 



V/F the original foundation of St. Mary's Church, 
there is no remaining account. It existed prior to the 
Norman conquest : since it is mentioned in Doomsday 
Book, as having one hide of land belonging to it, which 
was given by Turchill, the last of the Saxon Earls. 
The design of making it collegiate, with a dean and secu- 
lar canons, was formed by Henry de Newburg, first Earl 
of the Norman Line ; and it was afterwards carried into 
execution by his son Roger, the second Earl of the same 
line. This took place in 1123, the 23d of Hen. I. when 
the other churches were united to it. 

During the reign of Edward III. the present 
choir was founded by the first Thomas Beauchamp, Earl 
of Warwick ; and, in 1394, the whole body of the Church 
was rebuilt by his second son, Thomas, who, on the death 
of his eldest brother succeeded to the Earldom. In the 
same reign, by an ecclesiastical decree, as already men- 
tioned, divine service was discontinued in ihc other 



104 ST. MARY'S CHURCH. 

Supposed ancient relics — Destruction by Fire. 

— -- 

churches ; and all the inhabitants were ordered to repair 
for their devotions to this church, and that of St. Nicho- 
las only. 

Of Valuable relics, as they were esteemed, in the 
days of superstition, few religious edifices possessed more 
than St. Mary a. Amongst many others were the follow- 
ing — part of the chair of the patriarch Abraham — part 
of the burning bush of Moses-— part of the hair of the 
Blessed Virgin — part of the manger in which the infant 
Jesus was laid — part of the pillar to which he was fas- 
tened, when scourged — part of his crown of thorns — part 
of his cross — part of the towel in which his body was 
wrapt by Nicodemus — part of the hair of Mary Mag- 
dalen — part of the face of Stephen.* 

It has been already mentioned that, at the general 
dissolution, this Church, together with that of St. Nicho- 
las, was granted, by letters patent, bearing date May 15, 
1546, to the inhabitants of Warwick, and their succes- 
sors. It was then valued at ^333 2s. Ad. Out of this 
sum, were paid the stipends of the several officers, em- 
ployed in the celebration of divine service ; which then 
consisted of a dean, six canons, ten priests, and six 
choristers. 

In 1694 great part of the Church was destroyed 
by the dreadful fire, so often mentioned in the course of 
this work. Though the progress of the devouring flames 
was stopped before they reached this noble edifice ; yet 
unhappily the fire was communicated, by means of some 



* V. Dugdale's Warw. org. E. p. 306. 



ST. MARYS CHURCH. 105 

He-erection after a design of Sir C. Wren. 

half-burnt goods inadvertently deposited within it, as a 
place of safety. Mbst fortunately, the venerable choir, 
and the exquisitely beautiful chapel, on the south side, 
together with the chapter-house, the lobby, and the vestry- 
room, on the north, escaped uninjured. 

The erection of the new portion of this edifice, as 
it now appears, was completed in the year 1704 ; and the 
expence defrayed partly by royal bounty, but chiefly by 
public liberality. The architecture is a singular, and in- 
deed absurd mixture of different modes ; and yet the 
design of it is attributed to no less a person than Sir 
Christopher Wren. It is well known, however, that 
most of the walls in the body of the church were, after 
the fire, left standing ; and that these were repaired, and 
the tower erected, by John Smith, an architect of some 
note at Warwick. But whether the plan, he adopted, was, 
in whole, or in part, the work of that consummate master 
of his art, just mentioned, one would be strongly inclined 
to doubt. * Certain, at least, it is, that the utter incon- 
sistency of the newly erected with the old remaining 
part ;§ that the strange violation of all architectural rule 
in the formation of the great windows, with their double 
row of cumbrous Saxon arches, terminated above by such 
grotesque and barbarous forms as were never before 



• The fact, however, must not be concealed, that in the Library of All Saints 
College, Oxford, amongst the architectural drawings and designs of Sir C. Wren, is 
the design of Warwick Church. 

§ What will be said to the following account of Mr Gilpin ? " The Church is 
" an elegant Gothic structure. A considerable part of it was lately destroyed : but it 
"is rebuilt with great symmetry." North. Tour, v. i. p. 37. — Surely so accmate an ob- 
server and so excellent a judge could* not have seen what he pretended to desciibe; 
or else, what he had seen, he must afterwards have totally forgotten ! Never were- 
three words — elegant— gothrc — symmetry — so strangely misused. 

O 



106 ST. MARY'S CHURCH. 

— ■■■ ■■■- - »'■' ■ ■ ' ■ ' ■ !'.■ ■—■« ■■■ «* 

Prinapal Entrance — Interior. 

seen ; and that the jumbling mixture of round and 
pointed arches in the tower, discover little of that taste 
and judgment, which usually display themselves in the 
other works of one of the first and greatest of British 
architects.* 

But notwithstanding these great faults, upon the 
whole, St. Mary's Church presents the appearance of & 
handsome and stately pile. The tower in particular is 
finely proportioned : and, from a base of 36 feet square, 
rises to the lofty height of 130 feet, with uncommon 
beauty and grace. It is built on four groined arches ; and 
contains within it ten bells and chimes. Those, whose 
curiosity may lead them to ascend to the summit of this 
tower, while the bells are ringing, will perceive in the 
surprising degree of vibratory motion, communicated to 
the whole body of it, a proof of its true and excellent 
workmanship. 

INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH. 

Under the tower is the principal entrance intfr 
the interior of the church ; and from this point, the view 
down the middle aisle, through the chancel, terminated 
by the east window, is strikingly grand. The whole 
length is 186 feet : and the breadth, measured along the 
transept, 106 feet. 



* It 'swell known that Sir C. Wren entertained strong prejudices against the 
ancient ecclesiastical architecture of this country. In his admiration of the regular 
proportions and exquisite symmetry of the classical buildings of antiquity, he was led ta 
despise the bold and grand irregularities of the ancient English style ; by him, first, 
named Gothic, an epithet, intended to convey ideas of ignorance and barbarism. That 
Sir C. When did not well understand this style of building, is evident, amongst 
other instances, from the incongruous manner, in which he finished the towers of 
Westminster Abbey. 



ST. MARY'S CHURCH. 107 

Middle Aisle — Monuments in the JVW*/t Transept. 

At the entrance of the middle aisle, is the baptis- 
mal font; of marble ; and above, is a loft, containing the 
large and excellent Organ, built by Swarebrick, and 
lately removed from the eastern extremity : by which 
judicious alteration, the fine view just mentioned, down 
the "long drawn aisle" is left uninterrupted and uninjured. 
The galleries are spacious and regular, and the whole 
interior is commodiously and handsomely fitted up. One 
arrangement deserves notice, as removing a serious in- 
convenience, frequently complained of, in attending pla- 
ces of worship, during wet or wintry seasons. At the 
four extremities of the principal aisle, four large stoves 
are placed, concealed under the form of urns, standing 
on pedestals. 

The monuments in the body of the church, are 
chiefly to be seen in the north and south transepts. They 
are not very numerous, nor, with one or two exceptions, 
very remarkable ; as might, indeed, be expected, when it 
is remembered that all the ancient monuments were 
destroyed by the great fire, of which few have been re- 
placed by others. 

In the north transept are the six following marble 
monuments, each with a Latin inscription — one, to the 
memory of John Gibbon, of a good family, in Stafford- 
shire, 1693, — another to the memory of Will. Johnson, 
Physician, of Warwick, and Anne, his wife, who bequeathed 
all her estates to charitable uses 1 7 33 — a third, to the memo- 
ry of Francis Charrocke, of an ancient and honorable 
family in Bedfordshire, lf2J, — a fourth, remarkable for 
its quaintness, to the memory of Francis Holyoak, and 
several of his family, 1730; some of whom were consi- 

o 2 



108 ST, MARY'S CHURCH. 



Monuments in the South Transept. 



derable scholars ; and one of whom was master of Rugby 
School, for the long space of 43 years — a fifth, to ths 
memory of Thos. Hewitt, 1735, prepared by himself, ju- 
dicious and impressive in its topics ; and, for its latinity, one 
of the best, though not quite faultless— -and a sixth, to the 
ancient family of Staunton of Longbridge, within the 
precincts of the borough 177 8 - I n this transept is, also, a 
marble monument to the memory of George and Mary 
Webb, 1743 : and another, more remarkable than all for 
its singularity, and its antiquity, to the memory of 
Thomas and Joan Oken, with their portraitures in 
brass, 1573.* To this monument, damaged by the fire, a 
marble tablet has been added by his feoffees, with a long 
inscription, commemorating the private worth, the public 
honors, and the charitable bequests, of that distinguished 
benefactor of his native town. 

In the south transept, are three marble monuments, 
one, with a Latin inscription, to the memory of Will. 
Viner, the honored and faithful steward, for 40 years, 
of the celebrated Fulk Lord Brooke, 1 639,- -the se- 
cond, also, with a Latin inscription, to the memory of 
John Norton, deputy recorder of Warwick; and several 
of his family, 1709-^and the third, with an English in- 
scription, to the memory of Henry Beaufoy, Esq. of 
Edmonscott, in this county ; one of whose daughters was 
married to Sir Samuel Garth, distinguished as a poet 
of some eminence ; and, still more, as an enlightened, an 
active and benevolent physician. The two last were 
erected in the place of others destroyed by the fire. 



* The inscription is as follows, " Of your charyte give thanks for the sooles of 
" Thomas Oken and Jone his Wyff; on whose souls Jesus has mercy; Jestjs ha,3 
♦'mercy — Amen — Remember the charyte of the poor for ever, iiDLxxni." 



ST. MARY'S CHURCH. 109 

Monument of the Second Thomas Beauchamp, Ecrl of Warwick. 

But in this transept, are to be seen the small remains 
of a most splendid monument, which will attract particular 
attention. It was erected to the memory of Thos. Beau- 
champ, second Earl of that name, and Margaret 
Ferrers, his wife, daughter of Lord Ferrers. The 
original monument,* which stood near the present, was 
an altar tomb, surmounted with a rich canopy, forming a 
half subast arch, adorned with the arms of Beauchamp 
and Ferrers. The long, pompous, and wretchedly af- 
fected Latin inscription, put up by the Parliamentary 
Commissioners, in 1706, is a perfect contrast to the con- 
ciseness and simplicity of the ancient, which, also in 
Latin, may be thus translated — " Here lies Thomas 
" Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, who died Ap. 8, 1401, 
''and Margaret his wife, who died Jan. 22, 1409. God 
^ be merciful to their souls!" 

The present monument consists only of the brass 
plate, § which was taken out of the ashes after the great 
fire, and fixed against the east wall. On it are two 
effigies. One represents the Earl in plated armour, with 
a mail gorget, wearing a helmet, with a fronton of square 
studds. On his armour are two armorial bearings ; at his 
side, are a sword and dagger ; and at his feet, is a bear 
lying. The other represents his lady, wearing a kirtle, 
with long mitten sleeves, charged with her family arms, 
and a mantle, on which are those of her husband. Her 
hair is bound with a fillet ; and at her left foot, is a dog, 
looking up. Upon the upper border of the plate, were 



* A Print of it may be seen in Dcodale's Wario. : and in Gough's Deicrip- 
tion of the Beauchamp Chapel. 

$ See an exact representation of it in Gough's Descnption, <f-c. 



lio ST. MARYS CHURCH. 

'■■■ ' ' ' ) I "' ! " ' " — u 

The Choir. 

■ ■ " i .I., ■ - i - ■ , H i . , ii — r-m; 

the arms of Beauchamp, impaling those of Ferrers, 
surmounted by the crest, a bear collared, chained, and 
muzzled, rampant, against a ragged staff. But this last 
has been removed, to make way for the gallery, lately 
erected above. On one side of the plate, is the arms 
" Cheque" Or and Az, a chevron," single ; and, on the 
other side, the same quartering A. On the lower border 
is a bear, collared, chained, gradient. Under all are the* 
Beauchamp arms, single. 

. This Earl* is the second, but eldest surviving son 
of Thomas Beauchamp, whose monument occupies the 
center of the Choir ; and the father of Richard Beau- 
champ, whose monument stands in the Lady's Chapel — > 
affording two of the finest specimens of sepulchral sculp- 
ture in the kingdom. 

THE CHOIR. 

Ascending three steps, through handsome portals 
of iron, is the entrance into The Choir. This, as already 
mentioned, is a part of the ancient church, which escaped 
the destructive fire of 1694 ; and it remains, a noble 
specimen of all that characteristic grandeur and beauty 
which marked what is called the gothic, or, more properly, 
the pointed architecture, prevalent in the fourteenth and 
two following centuries. Scarcely can even the most 
insensible spectator here enter, and look around, without 
feelings of awe, mingled with delight. There are four 
floors, ascending one step above another, towards the 
altar. On each side, are two ranges of stalls, in four 
divisions. The roof will particularly arrest attention. It 



See an account of him, p. St. 



ST. MARTS CHURCH. Ill 



Monume-it of the First Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick. 

I. 111 ■ ass 

is of stone, lofty in elevation; and, at once, novel and 
pleasing in design. The intervals between the ribs, that 
branch from the pillars towards the center, are left unfil- 
led; and thus a kind of open work is formed, of which 
the effect is singularly striking. The arms of the founder, 
impaled with those of his wife are here seen, richly carved 
and surrounded with seraphim. There are four windows 
of four days, on each side. These were formerly enrich- 
ed with painted glass, exhibiting the portraits and the 
arms of the Beauchamp family, which have long since 
disappeared.* The east window is large and grand ; but 
the fine effect of it is greatly impaired by the painted 
glass with which it is disgraced ; § representing, indeed, 
various subjects of sacred history, baton a scale so diminu- 
tive, that even the more prominent figures can scarcely 
be distinguished at the distance, whence they must neces- 
sarily be seen. The altar, itself, is also modern and 
mean, utterly inappropriate to the venerable antiquity 
and grandeur of the structure, in which it is placed. 

In the middle of the Choir, lie buried, its founder, 
Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of JVarwich,\\ and his wife 
Lady Catherine Mortimer, under a massive tomb, of 
the altar kind, formed of composition of plaister, and 
suiTounded with a cornice, which is also composition, in 
beautiful imitation of marble ; the ground grey, with yel- 



* Engravings of all these may be seen in Dugdale's Warw. 

§ It is much to be wished that, availing themselves of the talents of such artists, 
as Mr. Lowe, of Handsworth, or Mr. Rathael Egginton, of Birmingham, the 
Corporation would employ a part of their ample funds in procuring a new east win- 
dow, adapted to the peculiar magnificence of the Ckuncel, and the general solemnity 
of the whole adjoining edifice. 

!J See an account of this Earl, p. 30. 



112 ST. MARY'S CHURCH. 



Monument of the First Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick. 



low and white stripes. The whole monument is pro- 
nounced, by that distinguished antiquary Mr. Gough, to 
be one of the most elegant and beautiful of its kind, in the 
kingdom ; and has suffered much less, as he remarks, from 
the injuries of time and accident, than might have been 
expected. On the slab, are placed two white marble 
statues, of the Earl and his Countess, finely executed, in 
recumbent postures, the heads resting on pillars, a female 
watching at each, a lamb lying at the feet of one, and a 
bear at those of the other. The EaiTs figure is habited 
in armour, with a gorget of mail, wearing a pointed hel- 
met, studded round, except in the front. The inside of 
the upper half of the sleeve is mail ; the outside plated 
armour. His armorial bearings are painted on his breast 
and waist. His left hand, covered with a gauntlet, rests 
on his sword ; his right uncovered, clasps the right hand 
of his consort, whose left hand is on her breast— a pleasing 
emblematical representation of fond and faithful affection^ 
She is dressed in a mantle and petticoat, with sleeves 
below her wrists buttoned: and the lacing of her close 
gowri, extends below her girdle, like Queen Phillippa's 
in Westminister Abbey. Her head-dress is reticulated. — 
Round the sides and ends of this tomb, are thirty- six 
figures, male and female, alternately ; representing, ac- 
cording to Mr. Gough,* the relations of the Earl. Under 
them are coats of arms, of which the bearings are defaced. 

Of the remaining monuments within the choir, one 
near the altar, is very deserving of notice. It is of highly* 
polished alabaster, supported by Corinthian pillars ; with 
a Latin inscription, long and cumbersome, to the memory 



Ssk his description of «ach. App, No. 6. 



ST. MARY'S CHURCH. 113 

Monuments in the Chancel. 

of Sir Thomas Puckering, Knt. and Bart.* youngest but 
only surviving son of John Puckering, Lord Keeper of 
the Great Seal, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, who 
lived at the Priory, and died there, March 20, 1636. 
Below this, on a fiat stone, are affixed three brass plates, 
inscribed to the memory of Cisseley, second daughter of 
Sir Thomas ; the first simply recording her parentage 
and early death ; the second containing an anagram on 
her name ; and the third an epitaph in verse ; of which 
the last is written quaintly, and the second, not quite 
consistently with rule. 

On the south side, fixed to a slab of marble, is a 
rhyming epitaph, to the memory of Elizabeth Chow, 
1597 : and on the same side, are two elegant modern 
tablets, one to the memory of William and Mary 
Hiorne ; the other to that of Francis Hiorne, of War- 
ivick, an architect of considerable merit, amongst whose 
various works, the church of Tetbury, in Gloucestershire, 
and that of Stony Stratford, in Buckinghamshire, are 
particularly admired. On the floor, also, are many other 
memorials of the dead, little remarkable : and underneath 
it, is a capacious vault, commonly called the bone house, 
chiefly used as a burial place for the mayors, and other 
members of the body corporate. 

Within the choir, were buried, William Parr, 
Marquis of Northampton, brother of Queen Catherine 
Parr, and John Rous, the celebrated antiquary of Guys 
Cliff. Bat of these, all memorials have perished ; as also 
of some other distinguished persons, who were interred 

* See some notice of hira in the Account of the Priory, 

P 



114 ST. MARY'S CHURCH. 

Monuments in the Lobby. 

either here, or within the hody of the church, Dean 
Berkeswell arid Allstree, executors to Earl Richard, 
under whose direction the Lady's Chapel was built; Dean 
Hasely, schoolmaster to Henry VII.; and Thomas 
Cartwright, first master of Leicester's Hospital. 

North of the choir, is an ancient and substantial 
building, formerly belonging to the religious fraternity of 
deans and canons, first established here in the reign of 
Henry II. It consists of three distinct apartments, the 
lobby, the chapter house, and the library or vestry room. 

THE LOBBY. 

This apartment, nearest to the body of the church, 
is now chiefly used as an engine house — But here is to be 
seen a monumental tablet, well deserving a more conspi- 
cuous situation, It is of marble, charged with an inscrip- 
tion, pleasingly and not inelegantly written in Latin, to 
the memory of Francis Parker, who served in the several 
capacities of tutor, secretary, and steward, to Lords Fran- 
cis, Robert, and Fulke Brooke, for the long space of 
45 years, and died Nov. 10, l6<)3. By an ancestor of the 
present Earl, this handsome monument was erected, in 
the spirit of grateful and respectful regard, to the memory 
of an old and faithful servant : and in the same spirit, the 
present Earl has erected near it, a sepulchral tablet of 
marble, to the memory of one of his own domestics, John 
Bayley, who after a long course of honest and active 
service, ended a worthy and useful life, Sept. 15, 1792. 

chapter-house. 

This second, or middle apartment, is of an octago- 
nal form, and was originally the place, as its name imports, 
where the dean and canons held their assemblies. The 



ST. MARYS CHURCH. 115 

Chapter- House — Monument of Lord Brooke — Vestry. 

seats around it still remain. But, in the reign of James 
I. it was converted by Fulke Lord Brooke, into a 
mausoleum for himself and his family. The vast, heavy, 
but sumptuous monument, to be seen here, was erected by 
himself, in his life-time. It is of black and white marble. 
The design is a sarcophagus, placed under a sort of massy 
canopy, doubly arched, supported by Corinthian pillars, 
and surmounted by pyramidical ornaments. In large let- 
ters, running round the cornice, is the following inscription, 
remarkable at once, for simplicity, conciseness, and dignity. 
<f Fulke Grevil, servant to Oueen Elizabeth, counsellor 
to King James, and friend to Sir Philip Sidney/' The 
words Trophceum Peccati are seen on the other side. There 
is no date of time. Hanging over the tomb appear 
pennons, banners, helmets, and pieces of armour, agreeably 
to the custom, derived from remotest antiquity, of depo- 
siting in sacred places, as a sort of religious acknowledg- 
ment, the weapons of defence, and the trophies of victory, 

VESTRY ROOM, 

This is supposed to have been the library belonging 
to the monastery, in which a collection of old books, some 
of them very valuable, is still preserved.* Under the 
room is a spacious apartment, known by the name of the 
Friars kitchen, and now used as a burial place for the 
noble family of Warwick. Above is a large, light, airy 
room, appropriated to the use of a Sunday School, where, 
of both sexes, scholars to the number of about 60, usually 
assemble ; and where many more might be conveniently 
accommodated. 



* It may be worth while to mention that, amongst tlirse, is to be found RobertelluS 
Edition nf Aristotk's Poetics, nhich is now very scorer. 

P 2 



116 ST. MARY'S CHURCH. 



■ "'" ■ ' J 



^Vicars since the Revolution, 

The presentation to this vicarage is vested in the 
Lord Chancellor, 

Vicars since the Revolution. 

Rev. William Edes, 1702 

— Moses Hodges, D. D 1707 

— William Greenwood, D.D.*. „ 1724 

— Edward Tart, D. D. ........ 1739 

— Charles Bean, ............ 1750 

— John Coles, M. A 1766 

— Marmaduke Mathews, M. A.* 1778 

— R. P. Packwood, M. A. . . . . . . 181Q 




^a 






Of these Divines^ see a short notice at the end of Chap. XIV. 



ST, MARY'S CHAPEL. 117 



Entrance — Interior. 



CHAP. XIII. 



£>t. Sharp's! Cljajpd. 

Entrance — interior — altar-piece — great east window — monument of Richard 
Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick — of Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester — 
of Ambrose Dudley, Earl of Warwick — of Robert, his infant son — and 
of Lady Catherine Lewison — supposed Library of Rous — the chantry — 
the confessional — west room — exterior of the ChapeL 



JB ROM the south transept of St. Mary's Church, is 
the principal entrance into the Lady's ChapeL This is 
formed by a grand frontispiece, in the gothic style, design- 
ed and finished in the common sand stone of Warwick, by 
a poor mason of the town, in 1704; whose name, it is 
discreditable to say, is no where recorded, nor even re- 
membered. 

INTERIOR. 

Descending a flight of stone steps, through fold- 
ing doors, opens, to the astonished and delighted gaze, the 
interior of this beautiful and magnificent structure, justly 
pronounced to be one of the finest specimens of gothic 
architecture in the kingdom ; or even, as some good judges 
have said, in Europe. It is in that pointed style of the 
middle order, which is considered by some as the most 
perfect; and which chiefly prevailed at the time in which 
it was built. It was begun in 1443, according to the di- 



118 ST. MARY'S CHAPEL, 



Interior, 



rection of the will of Richard Beauchamp, Earl of 
Warwick, by his executors, Lords Cromwell, and Tip- 
toff ; John Throckmorton, Richard Curson, Thomas 
Huggeford, William Berkeswell, priest, and Nicho- 
las Rody, his steward. It was not finished till 146*4, 
twenty-one years after its commencement ; and cost, in-* 
eluding the Earl's monument, ag2481. equal at present 
to ^40,000.* 

Proceeding through the entrance—on each side 
appear, the ranges of stalls, in four divisions. The seats 
have on their backs, twelve blank shields, in quatre foils. 
On the edges of the eastern seats, are a lion, a griffin, a 
bear muzzled and collared ; on the western, a lion, griffin, 
hear and lion ; and on the northern, a griffin, lion, bear. 
The knobs on the sides of the stalls have ragged staves, 
an angel holding arms cheque a chevron Erm, a griffin 
collared and chained, a bear and staff, staves, acorns, &c. 

The floors are of black and white marble, four in 
number, of unequal sizes, ascending one step above another 
towards the altar. The ceiling is of stone richly carved, 
ornamented with shields, charged with the arms of the 
old Earls of Warwick single, and those of Warwick and 
Beauchamp quartered; but is greatly injured, in its effect, 
by the gaudy colouring of the painter. There are three 
windows on each side, of six days. Under the south win- 
dows are seven flat niches, of which the upper half is 
tracery, divided from the lower half by an embattled fascia, 
and under the north windows are five niches. 



* According to the calculation of the intelligent and ingenious traveller, Mtf* 
Wardw.— Ncrthtrn Tour, Vol. 2. p» 265. 



ST. MARY'S CHAPEL. 119 



Altar-Piece — Great East Window. 



On each side the haut-pas, or highest step towards 
the altar, is a desk furnished with two steps. The altar- 
piece is a fine bas-relief of The Salutation, modern, design- 
ed by Lightoler, and executed by Collins. It is placed 
under a gothic canopy, between two shrines, of which the 
appearance is little in harmony with that of the surround- 
ing structure. Raised high against the wall, on each 
side the altar, is a shrine, highly and elegantly wrought, 
though injured by the daubings of the painter ; in which, 
according to Dugdale, were formerly placed two images 
of pure gold, each of 20lb. weight. 

On each side of the west entrance, is a beautiful 
slender niche : and over the door, is an intended organ 
loft, of which the front, is ornamented with shields in 
quatre foils, with a rich fascia of vine-leaves and grapes, 
and another of roses above it. In the centre of both ^re 
the arms of Beauchamp, quartering cheque or and az, a 
chevron JErm, being the arms of the old Earls of War- 
wick ; and on a shield of pretence, the arms of Fitzwalter 
quartering those of Despenser : the whole is supported by 
an angel. On each side the door is a fascia of great and 
small oak leaves, in which are introduced a rose, a griffin 7 
flowers, lion, horse, two bears supporting a shield, two 
ragged staves and a vine branch. It cannot be sufficiently 
regretted that the window over this entrance is glazed 
with modern sash square, and is, in every respect, discord- 
ant with the architecture of the Chapel. 



The great eastern window, over the altar, still in 
a good state of preservation, is composed of two mould- 
ings, surrounding a central compartment, divided into 
three davs of two stories,; the whole of which is filled with 



120 ST. MARY'S CHAPEL. 

Monument of Richard Beauchamp y Earl of Warwick. ' 

' ' "' • 

painted glass, representing numerous figures, coats of arms, 
and various devices, with names and broken sentences in-* 
terspersed. Of these a minute account is given by Mr. 
Gough, from which an extract will be found in the Ap- 
pendix.* 

In the north and south windows, there is no paint- 
ed glass except in the tracery ; and these are damaged and 
indistinct. The figures appear, however, to have been 
angels, playing on musical instruments. Those in the 
centre of the north window, robed and playing on musical 
instruments, are peculiarly fine. Broken sentences and 
musical instruments are interspersed. 

Having attempted some account of this small but 
most beautiful chapel — we proceed to describe the stately 
and elegant monument of its founder, Rich. Beau champ ; 
for the reception of which it was expressly designed. This 
is an altar tomb of grey marble, placed near the centre of 
the chapel. On the slab lies the figure of the Earl, iri 
brass gilt, large as life, and inferior to none in England, 
except that of Hen. VII. in Westminster Abbey. It is 
placed on a table of the same metal, and is protected by 
a herse of brass hoops gilt. The hair is short and 
curled ; and the head rests on a helmet, encircled with a 
coronet. The hands are elevated, but not joined. The 
body is clad in plate armour, and the sword hangs at the 
left side. At the feet are a griffin and a bear muzzled, 
both sitting. At the extremities of the poles of the herse, 
are enamelled shields, pendant from oak leaves, in starred 
quatre foils. Four of these shields, at each end, have the 
Beauchamp Arms quartered with those of the old Earls ; 



* Appendix, No. 7. 



ST MARYS CHAPEL. 12 1 



Monument of Richard Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick. 

and a shield of pretence, charged with three chevroneb, 
and a fret quarterly, the last of which is the Despensers 
arms. At the eastern extremity of the middle pole, are 
the arms of England and France ; and at the western, SL 
Georges Cross. 

The niches, or housings, which surround this tomb, 
are exceedingly rich and beautiful. They are fourteen in 
number ; and in them are placed elegant statues, in copper 
gilt, male and female,- all of them representing noble per- 
sonages, and relations of the founder.* Underneath are 
their coats of arms* enamelled on shields, in starred quatre 
foils. They are divided by smaller niches, in which are 
whole length figures of angels, holding scrolls, supported 
on perks. On the scrolls are inscribed "sit Deo laas et 
gloria : defunctis misericordia" 

The inscription in old English, comprised in two 
lines, is let into the upper ledge of the tomb, and is whim- 
sically interspersed throughout, with the bear and ragged 
staff, which occurs not less than 40 times. It imports 
that "Richard, Earl of Warwick, after a long illness, 
died at the castle of Rouen, in Normandy, where he resided 
as Lieutenant-General of France, during the minority of 
Henry VI. ; that his body, deposited in a stone coffin, 
was brought over to England, and conveyed with funeral 
pomp to Warwick ; that it was placed near the monument 
of his father, till the chapel was finished ; and that, finally, 
it was interred beneath the tomb prepared for it, according 
to the direction of his will, 1460.J 



* See Appendix, No. 8- 
"{ See the Ilistcrj of 'bis Earl, p. 3>2. 



122 ST. MARTS CHAPEL. 

Monument of Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester. 

■'■'■■' - ■ i mB& sss s& Sz .■ ■ . ^g 

About the middle of the 17th century, the floor of 
the chapel fell in; when Earl Richard's coffin, being 
either accidentally broken, or purposely unclosed, the body 
was found perfect and fresh : but on letting in the air, it 
rapidly fell to decay. The Ladies of Warwick had rings 
and other ornaments made of the hair. 

Besides the tomb of its founder, there are, in this 
chapel, three other splendid monuments, of which the first 
in order of time, is that of Robert Dudley, Earl of Lei- 
cester, the favourite of Queen Elizabeth, which stands 
against the north wall. It consists of four Corinthian 
pillars, supporting an entablature, placed over an arch, 
adorned in front with a rich fascia, formed by cinque foils 
and the ragged staif, alternately disposed. Above the 
entablature, is a grand atchievement in the centre; and 
on each side, a kind of pyramidical temple, before which, 
stand a male figure on the right, and a female on the left. 
Just below the arch, on a table of marble, recline the statue 
of the Earl, in his coronet, clad in armour, covered with a 
mantle, and that of his Countess Lady Letitia, daughter 
of Sir Francis Knolles, in her coronet and mantle of 
ermine. The hands of both are elevated. These statues 
are finely sculptured ; but the appearance of the whole 
monument is ostentatiously massy, without elegance of 
design, or proportion of parts. 

Within the arch, are sixteen flags, charged with 
as many armorial bearings. On the key stone, appears a 
cinque foil Erm. ; in the spandrils of the arch, and under each 
pair of pillars, the arms of Dudley impaling Knolles. In 
front of the tomb, the arms of Dudley again appear in 
quartering*. The atchievement over the entablature, pre- 



ST. MARY'S CHAPEL. 123 



Monument of Robert Dudley* Earl of' Leicester. 



sents the arms of Dudley with quarterings impaling Knnlles, 
encircled by the garter, supported by two lions rampant, 
and surmounted by a crest, the bear and ragged staff, 
between two other crests, and a lion's head issuing from a 
helmet. Over these arms, is a cinque foil Erm. and above 
all, the bear and ragged staff. 

Under the arch of this grand monument, is placed 
a Latin inscription, which proclaims the honors bestowed, 
witb profusion, but without discernment, upon the royal 
favorite, who owed his fortune solely to his personal 
attractions, for of moral worth or intellectual ability, he 
had none. Respecting his two great military employments, 
here so pompously set forth, prudence might have recom- 
mended silence : since, on one occasion, he acquired no 
glory, as he had no opportunity ; and, on the other, the 
opportunity he had, he lost, and returned home, covered 
with deep and deserved disgrace. That he should be ce- 
lebrated, even on a tomb, for conjugal affection and fidelity, 
must bethought still more remarkable by those who recol- 
lect that, according to every appearance of probability, he 
poisoned his first wife ; disowned his second ; dishonored 
his third, before he married her ; and, in order to marry 
her, murdered her former husband. To all this it moy 
be added, that his only surviving son, an infant, was a 
natural child, by Lady Sheffield. If his widowed 
countess did really mourn, as she here affects, it is 
believed that into no other eye but her's, and perhaps that 
of his infatuated Queen, did a single tear stray, when Sept. 
4, 1588, he ended a life — of which the external splendor, 
and even the affected piety, and ostentatious charity, in 
vain, endeavours to conceal or soften the black enormity 
of its guilt and shame. 

o. 2 



124 ST. MARY'S CHAPEL. 

Monument of Ambrose Dudley, Earl of Warwick. 

To the memory of the Countess herself, Lady 
Letitia, relict of Walter Devereux, Earl of Essex, 
is hung against the wall, a wooden tablet, containing a 
long string of jingling couplets, replete with pun and 
quibble, which come, however, from the pen of Gervas 
Clifton, a poet of some consideration in his day. To 
understand the last line, it is necessary to be known, that 
she died on the morning of Christmas Day, 1634. 

At the head of Earl Richard's monument, stands 
that of Ambrose Dudley, brother of Robert, but of far 
higher and purer character. He was usually known by 
the honorable appellation of the good Earl of Warwick ; 
and to a certain degree, he was great as well as good. 
His monument is an altar tomb of beautiful marble. On 
the slab, lyipg in full stature, is the EaiTs figure ; clothed 
in armour, with a mantle thrown over it. His head, en- 
circled with a coronet, reclines on a mat, rolled up; his 
hair, short and curled, and beard long. At his feet, lies 
a bear collared and muzded. The sculpture is a good 
specimen of ancient art. 

Round this monument, are shields, with armorial 
bearings,* finely executed : and under the slab, is an 
English inscription — setting forth his birth and claims, as 
the surviving son of John, Duke of Northumberland; 
recounting the progress of his honors, successively be^ 
stowed by his Queen, the reward of great and real 
merit ; and finally closing with the account of his death, 
at Bedford House, Feb. 2], 1589, in consequence of a 
wound he received in the service of his country, though 

* For a description of thesr, see Appendix, No.- 9. 



ST. MARY'S CHAPEL. 125 



Monument of Robert, son of Robert, Earl of Leicester. 



that honorable circumstance, is here modestly suppressed. 
According to his own desire, his body was conveyed for 
interment in this place, where the present monument was 
erected by his surviving Countess. 

Near the altar, against the south wall, is the 
monument of Robert, infant son of Robert, Earl of 
Leicester. It is an altar tomb, the slab supported by 
four Corinthian pillars, on which lies the figure of a child, 
dressed in a coat and mantle. His head, bound round 
with a double row of pearls, rests on a cushion ; and at 
his feet, is a bear chained. Above the tomb, against the 
walls, are the arms of Dudley, with the quarterings, and 
on each side, the bear and staff. Around the sloping 
mouldings, are ragged staves ; belov/ which, at each corner, 
and in the centre, are cinque foil Erm. On the front, an 
inscription appears, in English, to admit a view of which, 
the shaft of a Corinthian pillar, is represented, aukwardly 
enough, as broken off and removed, leaving both the base 
and the capital behind. This inscription declares the 
relationship of the infant, or, as it is here expressed, "the 
impe," with all the noble personages whose dust lie near, 
unconsciously mingled with the common earth. 

One remaining monument, requires still to be 
noticed. It is a marble tablet, placed over the north 
entrance, against the wall, inscribed to the memory of 
Lady Catherine, wife of Sir Richard Lewison, of 
Trentham, Staffordshire, grand-daughter of Robert, Earl 
of Leicester : to whose generous cares, as the inscription 
informs, we are indebted for the admirable state of pre- 
servation, in which this ancient fabric itself, and the 
precious remains of old English sculpture it contains, now 



12S ST. MARYS CHAPEL. 



Monument: of Lady Lewison — Rous' supposed Library. 



appear. For the purpose of necessary repairs, she gave 
during her life, ^50 ; and left after her death, ^40 per 
annum, to be paid out of the manor of Foxley, North- 
amptonshire* Sir William Dugdale, the celebrated 
antiquary, is said, by his representations, to have prompted 
this bequest ; of which, himself and his heirs, conjointly 
with the Mayor of Warwick, were made trustees for 
ever. 

We cannot conclude the account of this beautiful 
and venerable structure, without uniting our expressions 
of deep regret, with those of every judicious spectator, 
that a chaster mode of restoring the beauty of the interior 
had not been adopted, when, about thirty years since, it was 
put into a state of complete repair. Nor can we yet con- 
sent to relinquish the earnest wish, expressed moie than 
fourteen years ago, by Mr. Ireland, and since repeated 
by many others, though it still remains ungratified, that 
the gaudy colours of the painter may be entirely removed, 
and the whole restored to its primitive simplicity and 
elegance ! 

ROUS' SUPPOSED LIBRARY. 

To the left of the altar, a door opens into a small 
room, which is commonly supposed to be the library built 
by the celebrated John Rous ; but upon the authority of 
Leland, and after him of Dugdale, we may venture to 
say, that this supposition is erroneous ; for, by them, it is 
expressly said, that this library was built over the south 
porch of St. Marys Church* 

* Bibliothccam etiam instituit in ipsa australi porticu fani Marise Warwici. — Let. 



ST. MARY'S CHAPEL. 127 

» — —^— — ri— i— — — — — — ^— — — ■ I ■ ■ I—— — — a— III II II — — H— — WI MI T ill . 

The Chantry — tlte Confessional. 
THE CHANTRY. 

On the north side of the Lady's Chapel, ascending 
by four steps, is the Chantry. This is a small room 18 
feet by 8, paved with red and black glazed tiles. The 
roof is formed by pendant capitals. On the south side are 
three grated windows, looking into the Chapel : near one 
of which is a small basin, about six inches in the diameter, 
with a small orifice at bottom, and a shaft, intended per- 
haps for holy water. At the east end is the scite of an 
altar, under the window, with a fascia of lozenge work ; 
and over it a lion's face and a Beauchamp cross. On each 
side, is a very fine niche, Avith pedestals. In this window, 
on painted glass, appears a scroll, held, by a hand reversed, 
inscribed with imperfect sentences. 

THE CONFESSIONAL. 

On the north side of the Chantry, ascending by 
four well-worn steps, is a small apartment, called the 
Confessional. The roof is fan fashioned with a central 
slip of quatre foils. There are three north windows, 
grated and closed, by sliding shutters, pierced in the gothic 
manner. At the eastern extremity is the confessional seat : 
near which is an oblique aperture, opening into the choir 
of St. Marys, through which according to common report, 
confession was made. Bat it is doubted by several anti- 
quarians, whether this room was ever used for any such 
purpose. The situation so near the Choir and the high 
altar, they observe, was a very unusual place for re- 
ceiving confessions. Besides, confessionals were nothing 
more than small moveable desks ; and, in the present 
case, confessions, if made at all, must have been made 
to one of the Chantry Priests — contrary to prevail- 
ing practice. The grated windows are singular; but the 



128 ST. MARY'S CHAPEL, 

West Boom — Exterior of the Chapel. 

oblique aperture was intended, they assert, for the pur- 
pose of enabling the chantry priest to see the high altar, 
at the time when the host was elevated. 

THE WEST ROOM. 

To the west of the confessional, on the same floor y 
is a passage, in which are four seats ; and opposite to 
them, the upper part of a window, closed ap, as if once 
opening into St Mary's Choir, This passage leads to a 
western room, nearly of the same size as the chantry ; the 
floor of which is paved with red and yellow tiles, and the 
roof is formed with pendant capitals. On the south, are 
three grated windows, looking into the chapel ; and oppo- 
site, the upper part of a window closed, similar to that in 
the passage. 

EXTERIOR OF THE CHAPEL. 

After this account of the interior, we must not 
omit to mention that a view of the exterior, will exquisitely 
gratify the admirer of ancient architecture. Under the 
three southern windows, are flat niches ; and above them 
is a fascia, formed of blank shields and oak leaves, dispo- 
sed alternately. The flying buttresses are richly ornamen- 
ted. At the extremities of these are niches, with pedestals 
for images : on the sides, are four small pinnacles, and a 
large one rises and crowns the whole. The east window 
is grand, and the tracery beautiful.— Above this window, 
are three niches, occupied by as many figures ; that of the 
virgin, in the middle, seated, and her infant child, reclining 
on her lap ; and on each side, are two male figures robed. 



ST. NICHOLAS' CHURCH. 129 



Early His tort/. 



CHAP. XIV. 



Early History— present Structure— the Touer—the Interior— the Monuments 
— Vicars since the Revolution, 



VV HEN the Church, dedicated to St. Nicholas, was ori- 
ginally founded, is entirely unknown. There is reason, how- 
ever, to believe, that it existed, as a religious edifice of some 
description, prior to the Norman conquest. For, accord- 
ing to Rous, the Chancel of the Church, in his time, was 
more anciently the Choir to the House of Num, who oc- 
cupied the ground on which it stood, and much of the 
surrounding land, as far, in one direction, as St. John's 
Hospital. This very ancient Nunnery was destroyed by 
Canute, the Dane, 101 6. Yet, it should seem, it was 
afterwards rebuilt; since the town of Clopton was expressly 
granted* to the Nuns residing here, by Henry De New- 
burg, the first of the Norman Earls. After this time, 
however, as a Nunnery, it did not long subsist. For, by 
FiOGER, the second Norman Earl, 1123, it was granted, 
under the name of the Church of St. Nicholas, to the 
fraternity of Deans and Canons, lately established at St. 
Mary's. 



Dpgd.ue's Worxickthi e, pag" 336. Jones' Edit. \76l 

Ft 



130 ST. NICHOLAS' CHURCH. 

. i. u iiii I I ir n i — — — l| t ill i i II 

Present Structure. 

From that time, two Priests were appointed, by 
the Deans and Canons, with fixed salaries, to conduct the 
rsligious services of the place, to one of whom, the charge 
of all the inhabitants, on the north side of the Bridge was 
committed ; and those on the south side, to the other. 
But, in progress of time, these salaries were injuriously 
withheld; and, by the interference of Tideman, Bishop 
of Worcester, in 1401, instead of the former arrange- 
ment, a vicarage was established here, to which a certain 
proportion of tithes was appropriated. At the time of the 
general dissolution, this Church was granted, by royal 
authority, to the Burgesses of Warwick, and their suc- 
cessors for ever. 

The present Church is a recent stricture — of which 
the design is greatly and justly censured — as exhibiting 
a lamentable specimen of modern gothic. It is, indeed, 
a wretched jumble of different styles; and,, in no part,, 
discovers a single instance of correct taste or judgment. 
The windows must strike every eye as disproportionably 
large, so as to give to the whole exterior, that lanthorn 
appearance, which some have strangely affected to ad- 
mire:* whilst the excessive glare within, is very different 
from " the dim religious light," which is so truly described 
by Milton, as best suited to a place of worship, and is, 
indeed, so awfully striking in most of our ancient eccle- 
siastical edifices. The old tower, found to be in a 
ruinous state, so long ago as 1748, was then taken 
down; and, on its scite, was erected, by Johnson, an 
architect of Warwick, the present tower, deformed by 
misshapen windows, and crowned with a spire, which, in 



* See Mu.nsr's Eccles. Architect- p. 1 14 and 333. 



ST. NICHOLAS' CHURCH. 13 1 



Tower — Interior — Monuments. 



itself,* is never well adapted to Gothic structures, and which, 
in the present instance, from the want of due elevation, has 
lost its just proportion. In course of time, the body of the 
Church began to discover the decays of age; and, in 1779? 
that too was taken down. In its place, arose the present 
edifice, built under the direction of Job Collins, an 
architect also of JVarwich ; and it is for ever to be re- 
gretted, that a plan, so totally devoid of merit, should have 
been chosen in preference to another, far superior, which 
was offered at the same time by Francis Hiorne, whose 
name has already been mentioned with respect in these 
pages. — The Church was finished, and opened for divine 
service, Sept. 17. 17 80. 

At the west end, are the two principal entrances 
into the Interior of the Church, which is neat and com- 
modious ; and, during the winter season, is kept dry and 
warm, by means of two large stoves, in the shape of urns. 
The monuments within this Church are neither numerous 
nor remarkable. Of these, two erected in the vestry, and 
one in the body of the Church, are dedicated to the me- 
mory of several individuals of the family of Stoughton, 
who were formerly seated at Stoughton, in Surrey, and 
who trace their descent to a Norman ancestor, so far 
back as the Conquest. One of these is dated \666 ; the 
other two are without dates. A fourth monument, is in- 
scribed to the memory of Katherine, daughter of Sir 
G. Tipping, Bart, of Dray cot, Oxon, who married into 



* Even Salisbury Spire, though one of the loftiest and finest structures of tlie kind 
in England, will scarcely be admired, considered as an appendage to a noble Gothic 
Cathedral. It is observabk, tint as the Gothic taste advanced in purity, Spires vet-re laid 
;tside, and the Tower was generally udopied. SeeGa.iMN's Western Tour, p. 55. 

R 2 



132 ST. NICHOLAS' CHURCH. 

Vicars since the Revolutinji. 

the family of Stoughton, and died 1724 : and a fifth, to 
the memory of Aaron and Bridget Rogers, 1709. 

The presentation to this vicarage is vested in the 

Corporation, 

Vicars since the Revolution. 

Rev. Samuel Jemmet, 1672 

— W. Greenwood, M. A 17 1 3 

— Marmaduke Mathews, M. A. 1769 

— Robert Miller, M. A. 1778 

— Arthur Wade, M. A 1811 

The second of the above mentioned divines, Mr. 
afterwards Dr. Greenwood, was an author of some con- 
siderable merit. Amongst other works, he published in 
1763, Essays on the Creation, or an attempt to explain, 
upon rational principles, the first chapter of Genesis; and 
this was followed, in 1765, by a Harmony of the Gospels, 
which adopts the plan of Dr. Macknight, with slight 
deviations, and to which a well-written preface, contain- 
ing some judicious observations, is prefixed. He likewise 
published an exposition of that most interesting and im- 
portant chapter, the 15th of the 1st Corinthians. He also 
furnished Bishop Newton, to whom he was related, with 
the notes on Paradise Lost, published, with his name af- 
^Ted, in the learned Prelates edition of Milton. These 
notes are not, however, very considerable in number ; nor, 
in excellence, can they be said to vie with the criticisms 
of Addison, Pierce, or Newton. — With the vicarage 
of St. Nicholas, Dr. G. held that of St. Marys, to which 
he was presented, on the resignation of Dr. Hodges, in 
1724, through the interest of the Lady Dowager Baroness 



ST. NICHOLAS' CHURCH. 133 

.^ — — — ^—— ■ — i— «— — ■ — — — — i BBBBB g " * ' 

Biographical Notice of Dr. Greenzcood. 

Torrington. A curious account of what passed on that 
occasion, is still preserved, in the hand-writing of the 
Doctor himself.* The patronage of St. Mary's, it ap- 
pears, was then supposed to be in the Lord Chancellory 
who was at that time the Earl of Macclesfield ; but, 
on making the proper application to him, Lady Touring- 
ton was informed that the gift was in the Crown and not 
in himself. The application was next made, therefore, 
through the Secretary, Lord Townshend, to the King ; 
the living was immediately given, as desired ; and fat 
when the instrument was presented to the Chancellor, he 
refused to affix the seals ; alleging that, on further en- 
quiry, he found the gift was really in himself, and not in 
the Crown. At the same time, however, he made an 
offer of it, on his own presentation, to the Doctor, who 
very properly refused to accept it, from him, without the 
previous consent of the King. But, on a second applica- 
tion for that purpose, the King insisted on his right ; long 
delays and disputes ensued ; till, after the Doctor " had 
been tossed a good while" as he himself expresses it, 
" from pillar to post, between Lincoln s- 1 mi -Fie Ids and 
St. James\" the Chancellor at length yielded, and the 
presentation passed the Great Seal. — On the next pre- 
sentation, which was that of Dr. Tart, the same disp te 
again arose; which ended in finally determining the right 
to be in the Crown, and not in the Seals. § — In the year 
1739, Dr. G. obtained another preferment, more valuable 
than all, in the rectory of Solihull, to which he was pre- 
sented by Lord Archer. He then, resigned the living 

* In the possession of a Lady of Warwick. 

§ From this account our Readers will easily correct the error into which we iiave 
inadvertently fallen, p. llfj. 



134 ST. NICHOLAS' CHURCH. 



Biogrnphi al Notice of the Rev. M. Mai&ws. 



of St Mary's, but retained that of St. Nicholas. He 
died in 1750; and was buried at the entrance of Lea- 
mington Church. 

Of his successor, first, in the vicarage of St, 
Nicholas, and afterwards in that of St. Marys, the Rev. 
M. Mathews, the following short biographical notice, 
from the pen of one of his clerical brethren, was given 
in the Warwick Advertiser, Oct. 2, 1810. 

u On Tuesday evening last, died, aged 73, 
" the Rev. Marmaduke Mathews, vicar of St. 
" Marys, in this borough, and of Wellingborough, in the 
" county of Northampton, Domestic Chaplain to the 
' « Earl of Warwick, and one of his Majesty's Justices of 
" the Peace for this county. — During a residence of 50 
ce years in this Borough, spent in the offices of the sacred 
" ministry, first as curate, next as vicar of St. Nicholas , 
" and then (for the last 32 years,) as vicar of St. Mary's, 
Ci he had endeared himself to its inhabitants by his sim- 
" plicity of heart, great benevolence, and strict integrity, 
ci And it was his enviable lot to go through the several 
ct duties incumbent on him, as a magistrate, a clergyman, 
" and a christian, with an irreproachable character. After 
" a short illness, borne with resignation and cheerfulness, 
" he calmly closed his long series of active and laborious 
*' services, without a groan, generally respected, esteemed, 
tc and regretted." 




DISSENTING PLACES, &c. 135 



Presbyterian Chapef. 



CHAP. XY. 



SDi^cnting $Utt$ of Wntgfyip. 

Presbyterian, Chapel — Independent Chapel — Baptist — West leian —Quaker's 

Meeting House. 



X O the account, given in the preceding chapter, of the o 
two remaining Churches, we subjoin the following short 
notices of the places of worship, belonging to the various 
classes of Dissenters. 

PRESBYTERIAN CHAPEL. 

This Chapel, situated in the High-street, was built 
in 1780, on a piece of ground, given for the purpose, by 
the late Lord Warwick, together with an adjoining 
house, in exchange for the ancient edifice, which stood 
in the way of an intended enlargement of his pleasure 
grounds. It is a small but neat building, presenting a 
stone front, with an urn at the summit. 

Ministers since the Revolution. 

Rev. J. Carpenter, 1700 

— James Kettle, 1746 

— B. Kingsbury, 1786 

— William Field, 178,0 









136 DISSENTING PLACES 

Biographical Notice of Rev. J. Kettle — Independent Chapel. 

Of the second of these divines — the following short 
notice is copied from the Warwick Advertiser, Ap. 19, 1 806. 

" On Sunday last, died, at the advanced age of 
" 90, the Rev. James Kettle. He was born at Eves- 
cc ham ; and, after the usual grammar education, was 
" sent to Glasgow; where he completed his classical 
" and theological studies, preparatory to the ministerial 
u office, for which he was destined. His prior settle- 
cc ment, as a Minister, was at Dorchester ; whence he 
cc removed to Warwick. Here he preached 40 years, and 
" resided almost 60 ; and, through the whole course of 
" his long life, by the gentle, yet potent influence of that 
" unaffected piety and goodness, which become the Chris- 
" tian Minister ; recommended by the placid and amiable 
" dispositions, which adorn the man; and accompanied 
" by the graceful and agreeable manners, which bespeak 
" the gentleman ; he secured to himself the esteem of his 
" friends, and the respect of all who knew him." 

INDEPENDENT CHAPEL. 

This Chapel, situated in Cow-lane, was erected 
about the year 1760 ; and was greatly enlarged and im- 
proved in 1798. It is a good building, of considerable 
size, and is well attended. 

Ministers since the Revolution. 
Rev. J. Newton, 1759 

— J. Lombard, 1763 

— A.Rowley, 1773 

— J. Moody, 178O 

— W.Williams, I807 

— J.Percy,... 1811 



OF WORSHIP. 



Biographical Sketch of the Rev. J. Newton. 

The nrst of these divines — Mr. Newton — the 
favored friend of Cowper — and, in himself, no ordinary 
man, was born in London, 1JT25. . He was educated at a 
Boarding School, in Essex ; and, early in life, was sent to 
sea. Here, in the course of several voyages, he went 
through many surprizing adventures ; of which he has 
given us an interesting account, in his Letters of Omkron. 
AfterwarcU renouncing a sea- faring life; and, with it, many 
evil courses, into which he had unhappily run ; he became 
a religious character, and turned his thoughts to the 
Christian Ministry. In 1 759, he came to Warwick; and 
officiated, for a short time, as Minister to the Independent 
Society, then newly formed. Soon changing his views, 
however, he thought proper to conform to the established 
Church, and received ordination from the hands of the 
Bishop of Lincoln, 1764. By the recommendation of 
Lord Dartmouth, he was appointed Curate of Olneij 
Church. Here, he continued .5 years; and here, he first 
formed an intimate acquaintance with the interesting and 
amiable recluse of Weston. It was afterwards his sinffu- 
lar fortune, of which he was duly and even proudly sensi- 
ble, to introduce to the world, the most distinguished of 
modern Poets, by writing the Preface to the first of his 
published works. That Preface, it must be owned, is not 
very pertinently or happily written : and Cowper himself 
hesitated at first to admit it ; and seemed not well satisfied 
with it at last.* But the diffidence of the Poet, and the 
ambitious desire of his friend, to connect his own name 
with a name of so high a promise, finally prevailed; and 
the Preface was printed. From Olney, in l/79> Mi • N. 
removed to London, in consequence of a presentation, ij\ 

e HajlrjTs I ifc of Cowj> e - : Ho v. iii. p. 123, 126, 132. 



138 DISSENTING PLACES 

Biographical /Notice of the Rev. J. Moody. 

the interest of John Thornton, Esq.. to the Rectory of 
St. Mary, Wbolnooth, Lombard-street. Here his earnest 
and assiduous preaching, recommended and enforced by a 
considerable degree of natural and fervid eloquence, aided, 
no doubt, by the recollection of the extraordinary events of 
his early life, long attracted crowded audiences. In \S06, 
at the advanced age of 81, he retired from his public duties: 
and, within a few months following, a long and eventful 
life, highly chequered by the good and the bad, greatly in- 
structive as a warning in its earlier, and as an example in 
its later period, was closed by an easy and tranquil death. 
His writings are numerous ; and, amongst that class of 
Christians, to which he belonged, which was that of Cat- 
wimsts y they are still held in great estimation. 

The Rev. J. Moody, the third of the Independent 
Divines, was orginally engaged in trade, but afterwards 
attended the instructions of the Rev. Messrs. Brewer, 
Barber, and Kello, with a view to the profession of a 
Christian Minister. In 178I, he settled at Warwick; and 
here for twenty-five years, continued his unwearied and 
most useful labours, in the sacred cause of religious truth, 
as it appeared to his own honest conviction. His principles 
were those of the great Genevan Reformer, held in their 
utmost strictness. But his faith and piety were sincere 
and fervent; his heart was benevolent; his morals were 
correct and exemplary; his manners amiable and sprightly; 
his theological and general knowledge was respectable ; 
and his ministerial services zealous, persevering, and emi- 
nently successful. He died in 1806; and was buried in 
his own chapel, where his merits are recorded upon a 
handsome tablet, the work and the gift of that distinguish- 
ed artist, his friend and his admirer, Mr. Bacon. Kfe 



OF WORSHIP. 139 

Baptist Meeting House — llev. J. Ryland. 

published several single Sermons ; and, after his death, ap- 
peared a volume of Letters, which give abundant proof 
that he was a sensible, reflecting and studious, as well as 
a religious man. 

BAPTIST MEETING HOUSE. 

This was originally two dwelling-houses. About 
the year 1744, it was converted into a place of worship, and 
given for the use of a Society of Baptists, by Mr. Thomas 
Hurd, a native of Warwick ; who, also, left an estate in 
trust, towards the support of it. It is a small building ; 
but, by means of galleries carried round three of its sides, 
is capable of accommodating considerable numbers. It is 
furnished, as are all the places of worship belonging to 
this class of Dissenters, with ground for sepulture, im- 
mediately adjoining. 

Ministers since the Revolution. 

Rev. J. Rvland, 1746 

— Knight, 1759 

— Stennett, 1777 

— P. Reece, 178O 

— J. Wilson, 1795 

— Ed. Mabbutt, 1799 

— Wm. Read, 1 804 

The first of the above Divines, Mr. Ryland, was 
a man of no little celebrity in his time, especially amongst 
the class of Dissenters, to which he more immediately be- 
longed. He was born October 12, 1723, at Ditchford, 
near Shipstone, on the borders of this county. He 
received his education, preparatory to the ministerial 

s 2 



140 DISSENTING PLACES 

Wesleian Methodist Meeting- 

office, in the Academy at Bristol; over which his son, 
Dr. Ryland, now presides. In 1746, he was chosen Pas- 
tor of the Congregation, at Warwick : and here, for the 
snace of thirteen years, he continued to preach with much 
approbation and usefulness. In 17^9, he accepted an in- 
vitation to the pastoral charge of the Baptist Society, at 
Northampton; where, with his ministerial labours, he 
united those of an instructor of youth ; and, in this new 
and important character, soon acquired high reputation. 
From Northampton, he removed to Enfield: and here, at 
the age of 69, he finally closed the course of an active and 
a useful life, devoted to all the great interests of knowledge, 
virtue, and religion, July 24, 1792. He was possessed of 
considerable abilities : but a strong and ardent imagination 
was not controlled by equal soundness, or strength of 
judgment : and a great degree of what is usually called 
eccentricity, marked not only the manner of his public 
services, but even his conduct in private life. He publish- 
ed several single Sermons, and some other small Treatises ; 
among which latter one of the principal is, Ci Contempla- 
tions on the JVorks of Creation.'* 

WESLEIAN METHODIST MEETING. 

This is situated in Gerard Lane, small in extent, 
and humble in appearance. The society to which it be- 
longs, as the name imports, is a branch of the numerous 
and growing sect, originally established by the highly 
distinguished, and truly pious and virtuous Wesley. Like 
the other Methodists, they have no settled Preachers ; but 
their public services are conducted by a succession of 
Preachers, of whom those that officiate in this place, 
belonged formerly to what is termed, by them, the Hinckley 
Circuit, and now to the Banbury Circuit. 



OF WORSHIP. 141 



Quakers Meeting; House. 



Q.UAKERS MEETING HOUSE. 

This is situated in the south-western extremity of 
High Street. It was built about the year 1671, on a piece 
of ground given by Mr. Edward Tustian, an inhabitant 
of Warwick, for the use of the Society of Friends, residing 
in the town and its vicinity. It is a small edifice, fitted 
up with all the characteristic neatness, which belong to 
this truly respectable class of Dissenters ; and there is a 
spacious ground for sepulture, immediately adjoining. 




J*r% 



142 COUNTY GAOL. 



State of the Old Prison — Foundation of the New Gaol. 



CHAP. XYX. 



Coimtp <*BaoI* 

State of the Old Prison— foundation of the New Gaol — front — entrance — Dead 
Room — Turnkey a Lodge — Keepers House — Male Felons' 1 Court — Spacious 
new building for their use — the cells — the baths — the work-shops — the 
Chapel — Female Felons' Court — apartments for their use — Masters' side 
Debtors — Common side Debtors' — Female Debtors' apartments — Dun- 
geon — present state of the interior — allowance to the Prisoners. 



lS OTHING could be more deplorable than the condition 
of the Old Prison, as described by Mr. Howard, at the 
time, when, by his astonishing and most humane exertions, 
that great philanthropist first directed the public notice, 
to the state of prisons in general, and amongst others, to 
that belonging to the County of Warwick. His feeling 
and forcible representations were received with all the 
grateful and respectful attention, to which they were so 
deservedly entitled, by the gentlemen of this, as well as 
of every other County in the Kingdom: and, as the happy 
fruits, in the place of the old, unsightly, unsafe, and un- 
healthy Gaol, arose the present large, substantial, and 
commodious pile, in every respect so complete, as to leave 
nothing to be desired, but that its situation had been 
nearer to the extremity, than the centre of the town. The 
whole area is surrounded by a wall, 23 feet high, and 
strong in proportion; which incloses a space, not much 
less than an acre of land. 



COUNTY GAOL. . 143 



Front — Entrance — Dead Rnom—Gao^ \s H use. 



The solid stone front of this great and important 
building, is in North Gate Street, standing in a line with 
that of the County Hall; supported by massy pillars of 
the Doric Order, three quarters length ; and measuring in 
its whole extent, 126 feet. Of this front, nearly the whole 
is separated from the rest of the building; and is converted 
into Public Offices, for the use of the Clerk of the Peace, 
and others. 

In the Bridewell-lane, is the principal Entrance 
into the Prison itself. Here, on passing the outward 
gate, is the Turnkeys Lodge; and over it, what is called 
the Dead Room; through which unhappy sufferers are 
conducted to the place of execution, immediately before 
the Gaol doors — but for which, it is to be hoped, at no very 
distant period, there will be much less use, if the spirited 
and benevolent exertions, now embodied and employed, to 
awaken in the public mind a sense of the inefficacy, as 
well as injustice and cruelty of the frequent capital punish- 
ments, prescribed by the present laws, should not fail 
of success.* 

Next beyond the entrance, is a small Court Yard: 
on the left of which is a kind of summer apartment, be- 
longing to the Gaoler: and on the right, and in the front, 
are the Turnkey s apartments. Over these last, is the 
Goalers House, which forms nearly the central building 
of the whole ; and which commands, from its windows 
a view into all the different court-yards. 

Near the door leading into the Turnkeys apart- 
ment, is fixed an Alms Box, for the benefit of poor 

* Sre '• An Account of t he origin and object of the Society for 'lie diffusion of 
Knowledge upou the puirsliment of Death." 



144 COUNTY GAOL. 

Male Felons' Co7irt Yard — New Building for their use. 

Debtors, put up in 1798; when he was High Sheriff, by 
that enlightened and ardent friend of his country, and of 
humanity, the late Blackett Wise, Esgl; on which are 
inscribed the following lines, so much admired for their 
simple pathos, as to have been since adopted, for a similar 
purpose, at the Debtor's Prison, in Dover Castle. 



th O ye ! whose hours exempt from sorrow flow, 

lc Behold the seat of pain, and want, and woe! 

'* Think, while your hands, the entreated alms, extend, 

*' That, what to us ye give, to God ye lend!" 



Immediately within the Turnkey's apartment are 
the four doors, which lead to the four principal divisions 
of the Prison — of which the two first conduct to the Male 
and Female Felons' Cornet Yards, and the two last to the 
Masters' side, and the Common side Debtors. 

On the right, is the door leading to the Male 
Felons Court Yard, which is spacious and airy; measur- 
ing not less than 96 feet in length, and 54 in breadth. 
Entering this Yard, on its left, or south side, stands the 
principal range of building, extending in its whole length 
96 feet, and rising to the heighth of four stories. It is 
newly and substantially built of stone. At its two ex- 
tremities, on the ground floor, are the two Day Rooms, 
each of which, measures 31 feet by 19. Between these, 
is a range of eight sleeping cells, in front, looking into 
the Court Yard; and another range "of the same number 
behind, looking into a Garden, belonging to the Gaol 
These two ranges, are separated from each other, by a 
wall and passage, on each side of it, five feet wide. On 
the ground floor, are also three solitary cells. Tbese, and 
all the cells, are formed with arched roofs, 9 feet high: 



COUNTY GAOL. \Ah 



Mute Felons' Apartments — Hot and Cold fiat Its. 

and every cell measures 29 feet by 6. — Ascending a flight 
of stone steps, on the second story, are likewise two ranges 
of cells; one in front, the other behind ; separated from 
each other, by a wall and two passages, in the same 
manner as those upon the ground floor. The whole 
number of cells on this story, are 20, of which two are 
solitary cells, and eight are called double, because they 
are twice the size of the others, and are intended for 
the reception of two prisoners. — On the third and 
fourth stories, are also two ranges of cells, of the same 
number, and the same dimensions, divided from each 
other, in the same manner, as those in the lower story. 
On the whole, therefore, there are 79 cells ; and as 
24 of these are double, the number of prisoners 
capable of being received and lodged in this part of 
the Gaol, is 103. — All the cells have glazed windows . 
and all are perfectly dry, and exceedingly airy. Each 
cell is secured with double doors ; the inner of vt ood, and 
the outer of iron grating. In every cell is an iron bed- 
stead, with wooden bottom; furnished with a chaff bed, 
and two rugs. Two of the double cells are provided with 
fire-places, and are appropriated to the use of the sick. 

Such is the large, lofty, and airy building, which 
occupies the south side of the Male Felons' Court: and, 
on the opposite side, is another building of nearly equal 
length, but only one story in height. This consists, amo g 
other convenient offices, of a hot and a cold bath, for the 
use of the prisoners; and a room, in which the irons are 
deposited. The man of humanity will rejoice to hear, as 
a happy consequence, resulting fom the present secure 
state of the Gaol, that the use of these irons, especially 
those of the heavier kind, is now become almost mi- 
ne cess arv. 



146 COUNTY GAOL. 



The Work Rooms — the Chapel — Female Felons' Apartments. 

Beyond this first and low building, parallel to it, 
and separated from it, by a yard 10 feet wide, is another 
building, which rises two stories in height. Here on the 
ground floor, properly divided from each other, are two 
work-rooms, one for the men, and the other for the 
women. The former it was proposed to employ in weav- 
ing; and the latter, in spinning. But hitherto, this part 
of the plan has never been carried into execution : and, 
at present, one of the work-rooms is used by those debtors, 
who employ themselves in their several occupations, as of 
tailors, or shoemakers: and the other is occasionally used 
as a day-room, when the number of prisoners is more 
than usually great. — Over these rooms, on the second 
floor, is the Chapel; which is large, light, and com- 
modiously fitted up. It is divided by a partition, so high, 
that the sexes are out of sight of each other. But the 
officiating Clergyman, and also the Gaoler himself, from 
an elevated seat, command a view of the whole. All the 
prisoners, unless prevented by illness, attend divine service, 
every Wednesday and Friday. 

The second of the four principal doors, already 
mentioned, within the Turnkey's apartment, conducts to 
the Court-yard, belonging to the Female Felons, which 
is nearly in the form of a triangle, whose base is 56 feet, 
and perpendicular heighth 24. Along one side, are the 
apartments, appropriated to their use. These consist, on 
the ground floor, of a day-room, 18 feet by 14, two 
sleeping-rooms of the same size, and a wash-room; and, 
on the upper story, two sleeping-rooms, and a third, pro- 
vided with a fire-place, to be used occasionally as an in- 
firmary, all of nearly the same size as the day-room. 

The third and fourth doors, within the Turnkey's 



COUNTY GAOL. 147 



Apartments at the Matters' side — Common side — and Female Debtors' — Dungeon' 

apartments, conduct to the different Court-yards, of the 
Masters' side Debtors, and of the Common side 
Debtors. The former measures 82 feet by 37; and the 
latter is nearly of the same extent. — On the Masters side 
Debtors, is a day-room, 20 feet by l6: nine lodging- 
rooms on the ground Moor, each about 10 feet square; 
and, on the upper story, eighteen sleeping-rooms, of the 
same size, opening into a passage only three feet wide. 
The prices to be paid for the use of these rooms, fixed by 
authority, are marked on a table, and publicly exhibited. 
,For the Common side Debtors, a day-room is provided, 
about 14 feet square, on the ground floor; and three sleep- 
ing-rooms, on the upper story, furnished with chaff beds, 
and two rugs each, for which nothing is paid 

At one extremity of the Court-yard, belonging 
to the Common side Debtors, is a door which leads into 
that of the Female Debtors. Their apartments consist 
of two rooms, the larger, 20 feet square; the smaller, 
l6 feet by 9. Their bedding is the same as that of the 
men ; but here, bedsteads with sacking bottoms, are al- 
lowed. 

In the Court-yard, belonging to the Common side 
Debtors, is the old Dungeon; to which the descent 
is by 21 steps; and which is lighted only by one small 
grated aperture, at the top. Those who would enter into 
the feelings of iust indignation, with which the great 
Philanthropist describes this Dungeon* as a place of con- 
finement for human beings, will rejoice to be informed, 
that it has not, for many years, been used for any such 
purpose; and that now, prisoners are never conveyed thither, 

* Howard 011 Prisons v. i. p. 270, v. ii. p. 208. 



148 COUNTY GAOL. 



Present state of the Interior. 



except when conducted, in order to take their respective 
trials, through a subterraneous passage, which opens near 
it; and of which the other extremity terminates, by a good 
contrivance, near the Prisoners bar, in the County Hall. 

Such are the several divisions of this well-planned 
a^d spacious Prison — every part of which, we must now 
add, is plentifully supplied both with hard and soft water. 
It is white washed, once every year; and the whole is 
kept in a state of the most perfect order and cleanliness, 
so as to reflect great credit on its present superintendent; 
and to justify, it is hoped, the warm and liberal com- 
mendations, bestowed upon it, in his late excellent and 
most useful publication, by Mr. Neild* — of whom it is 
high, as well as merited praise, to say, that he zealously 
pursues the plans, and nobly emulates the glory, of 
Howard. — Alas ! since this was written — the afflicting in- 
telligence has been announced to the public, that the second 
Howard, is no more ! A life of laborious and benevolent 
exertions, directed, with little encouragement from those 
in power, to the great object, of discovering and removing 
the abuses, and of preventing or alleviating the distresses of 
Prisons, terminated— unhappily for the miserable tenants 
of those gloomy abodes !— Feb. l6, 1814.§ He has left, 
however, to the wisdom and humanity of his country, for the 
benefit of the most wretched of our species, an invaluable 
legacy, in his important volume, already alluded to, entitled, 
after those of his Great Predecessor, " The state of Prisons 
in -England and Wales? — a work which he had completed 
only a short time previous to his death. — If this is a di- 
gression — the Reader capable of appreciating, and honoring 



JSiild's Stale of Prisons, page 577. 
See Gent. Wag. February , 18J4. 



COUNTY GAOL. 149 

Allowances to the P?*isoners — Officers belonging to the Gaol. 

what is most exalting^ in human character, will easily 
pardon it. — To return to the short remainder of our 
account — 

The act for the preservation of health, and the 
clauses against the use of spirituous liquors, are conspicu- 
ously exhibited to view in several places. The daily 
allowance to each prisoner is one pound and a half of 
bread, sent in loaves from the baker, and always of full 
weight. Besides this stated allowance, the prisoners re- 
ceive from a legacy eight three-penny loaves, twice a 
month. They are regularly sent by Bernard Dewes, 
Esgl. of Wellesbourne , in this County, who gives also a 
ton of coals to the Debtors, and the same to the Felons, 
every Christmas. At that season, also, a sum is usually 
given for the relief of the Poor Debtors, which fre- 
quently amounts to 40 or ^50. 

Gaoler, Mr. H. Tatnall, salary. . ^300 

Chaplain, Rev. H. Laugharne, do. 70 

Ditto, gratuity 30 

Surgeon, Mr. Birch, salary 60 



§ Nihil est tarn regiuro, tarn liberate, taraque mumficua^quani opeiu fene so^plicibus, 
*5citare afflictog. &c 



150 COUNTY BRIDEWELL. 



Keeper's House— Vagrants' Apartments. 



»Ciii 



CHAP. XVII. 



Countp 25ri&etoeH. 

Keepers Mouse— -Vagrants Apartment — Mem' Court Yard — The Factory— 
Mens 1 Apartment's — Womens' Apartments — New Apartments for the 
Women — New Warehouse and Dye House — New Building for disorderly 
Apprentices and Servants — The Chapel — The Articles manufactured— 
Internal Regulations — Present state of the Interior — Allowance to 
Prisoners. 



jt\ T a small distance from the entrance into the Gaol, 
on the opposite side of the same street, stands the Bride- 
well. It presents to view, the Keepers House, with a 
handsome stone front ; terminated at each extremity by a 
gate-way; measuring in its whole extent 80 feet; and di- 
vided from the public street, by a garden, which belongs 
to it. Of its two Gates, one conducts to the part appro- 
priated to the men ; the other, to that appropriated to 
the women- 

Passing through the former of these, and entering 
a small yard, on the right, is the Keeper's House, which, 
from its windows, commands a view into the two nearer 
and principal Courts : and, on the left, is the Vagrants' 
Apartment. This is entirely detached from the rest of 
the Prison, by a high wall ; and consists of two sleeping 
cells, properly divided from each other ; one for the men, 



COUNTY BRIDEWELL. 151 

JMens' Court Yard — Vhe Factory, 

and the other for the women. Each cell is ahout 10 feet 
square ; and to each is attached a Court-yard, 21 feet 
long, and 12 broad. 

From the outer Gate of the Prison, just mention- 
ed, proceeding directly forward is another, which leads, 
down a flight of stone steps, into the Mens' Court Yard. 
This is dry, airy, and spacious, measuring 99 feet by 36- 
and is nearly surrounded by the various buildings, so 
humanely and judiciously provided, not merely for the 
necessary shelter, but also for the profitable employment 
of those who are doomed, by the offended laws of their 
country, to suffer confinement in this Prison* 

Of these various buildings, there are no less than 
four, besides the Keepers House, and the Vagrants' cells, 
already mentioned, which form so many distinct depart- 
ments in this great and important establishment. These 
we shall proceed to notice in the following order — the 
Factory — the Mens" apartments, in which is the Chapel — 
the Womens new apartments, in which are also the dye 
house, and the warehouse — and the new building, for the 
reception of disorderly apprentices and servants. 

On the left side of the Mens" 1 Court-yard, stands 
the Factory, two stories in height ; in which the comb- 
ing, spinning, and weaving of worsted, are carried on, to 
a considerable extent, and with the happiest effect, in the 
mutual advantage of the prisoners themselves, and of the. 
country which they have wronged. On the basement story, 
is the first workshop, 80 feet long ; containing a loom, a. 
considerable number of spinning wheels, a carding ma- 
chine, and a twisting mill. Close to it, on the same floor, 



152 COUNTY BRIDEWELL. 

Mens' Apartments — Womens* Apartments. 

is a combing and sorting room/ On the upper story, is 
the second workshop, of the same size as the first ; in 
which are seven looms, ten spinning wheels, and a carding 
machine. 

Opposite to the Factory, stands the second, which 
is the central and principal building, extending along the 
whole eastern ^*de of the court yard, and containing the 
apartments for the men. Here in the basement story, are 
a warm and a cold bath, an oven and a boiler, with pipes 
to convey water into it, from the reservoir. The second 
story contains a day-room for the common use of the men ; 
and another for the exclusive use of the convalescents. 
Over this is the chamber story; in which is the chape], 
three sleeping cells, and a sleeping room about 15 feet 
square. In the attic story, is a sleeping room, 30 feet by 
15, with partitions on the floor, to serve for the purpose of 
beds ; a sick room, l6 feet by 14, furnished with wooden 
turn-up bedsteads ; and adjoining to it, another room, pro- 
vided with a fire place, which is also for the use of the sick. 

In the same building, are distinct apartments for 
the women. These consist, on the ground floor, of a day- 
room, 27 feet by 16 ; on the second story, one sleeping 
room, l6 feet by 14, and two sleeping cells, 7 feet square ; 
on the upper story, one sleeping room, 30 feet by 16, and 
one sleeping cell, 7 feet square. The womens' day-room 
opens into their own court yard, 83 feet long, though not 
more than 15 feet wide. 

Such are the apartments, at present, appropriated 
to the women; but it must now be stated, that the whole 
of these are intended to be added to the apartments 



COUNTY BRIDEWELL. 153 



Nero Building for the Women. 



occupied by the men ; as soon as another spacious 
building, preparing for the reception of the women, 
is completed. This, which is the third of the four 
great buildings, extends along the northern extremity 
of the Mens* Court-yard, at right angles both to 
the Factory and the Central Building ; measuring 89 
feet in length, and rising to the height of three stories. 
On the ground floor are the Dye-house, 30 feet by 15, 
properly fitted up with coppers and stoves ; the stove- 
room ; the wash-house, 15 feet by 15 ; and the womens' 
day-room, 31 feet by 15. On the second floor, is a 
spacious work-room, 65 feet long, and 14 broad, capable 
of receiving from 40 to 50 spinning wheels ; a light and 
airy room for the use of the sick, 1 7 feet by 1 5 ; and a 
sleeping room, 31 feet by 15. On the upper story, is a 
sleeping-room, the same size as the lower one, and the 
whole remaining part forms a capacious warehouse for 
receiving and storing the manufactured goods. 

From the regular system of employment, established 
iii the Bridewell, it has long been considered, both by the 
judges and the magistrates, preferable, as a place of 
confinement, even to the County Gaol; though the latter 
is so much more spacious and commodious. In conse- 
quence, the number of prisoners sent hither, has of late 
years, greatly increased; and in 1808, it was determined 
to enlarge it. About that time, accordingly, the foundation 
of another building was laid, which has since been com- 
pleted. This immediately adjoins the newly erected 
building, last noticed, at right angles to it, standing in a 
spacious garden, from which a piece of ground 38 feet 
by 30, is taken for a court-yard, and surrounded by a hjgk 
wall. It is substantially built, extending in front 54 feet, 

u 



154 COUNTY BRIDEWELL. 

___, ^igjiMiMMliiniMMM ii m»— »a— — a^ — — — aw — — — — — ■<■ 

JView Building for disorderly Apprentices. 

- 

and rising to the height of three stories. On the ground 
floor, are a day-room, l6 feet by 12; a workshop 28 feet 
by 12; and two solitary cells. On the middle story are 
8 single cells, 1 2 feet by 5 ; and on the upper story, 2 
single cells of the same size, and three double cells, 
measuring 12 feet by 10^. Every cell has a glazed 
window, and ail iron door ; and they are all furnished 
with iron bedsteads and chaff beds. 

This new building, the Fourth within the pTe- 
cincts of this great Prison, will no doubt be found a very 
important addition to the various accommodations, which 
the well-judging humanity of the County .has provided 
for those unhappy persons, whose crimes have rendered 
seclusion from society necessary: and it will certainly 
contribute to raise still higher the opinion, which has been 
formed of it, by competent judges, as one of the best in 
the kingdom. It is intended exclusively for the reception 
of disorderly apprentices and servants, and of person* 
convicted of smaller offences ; who will thus be kept en- 
tirely separated from others, whose crimes are of a deeper 
dye, or whose term of imprisonment is of longer duration. 

The Chapel, it has been already mentioned, is in 
the chamber story of the central building. It consists of 
two distinct rooms ; one for the men, 36 feet by l6 ; the 
other for the women, 13 feet by l6. These rooms have 
no other, communication with each other, except that of 
one high and barred window ; close to which, the Clergy- 
man's desk is placed, who is, therefore, seen and heard 
equally well in both. The womens' room is an addition 
lately made to the Chapel, which before consisted only of 
that part; now appropriated to the men ; and as it has 



COUNTY BRIDEWELL. 155 



Articles manufactured — Allowance to the Prisoners. 



been so pointedly noticed both by Mr. Neild* and by Dr. 
Lettsom,§ as much too small for tbe accommodation 
of the great numbers ; with which this prison is generally 
filled, and sometimes even crowded — we have great pleasure 
in thus distinctly stating, that a place of confinement, 
which has obtained from them and others, such high and 
deserved commendation, is no longer liable to the reproach 
of that single but serious defect. 

The following are the principal of the various 
articles manufactured in this Prison, — Scotch and Venetian 
carpets — woollen webs — rollers — braces — Jersey aprons— 
Linsey petticoats — coloured tammies — blankets — bed rugs 
— and horse cloths. — The goods are most of them sent to 
London, Birmingham, Walsall, Dudley, Lincoln, and 
Stamford. All prisoners who work, receive 2d. or 3d. 
in every shilling out of their earnings, which is paid them 
weekly. The amount of earnings from January 1813, to 
January 1814, was about ^3 50, and the number of hands 
employed during that time, was from 40 to 50. 

The stated allowance to all the prisoners is one 
pound and a half of bread each per day. One hundred 
weight of coals a day, in the winter months, and half a 
hundred in the summer months, are allowed to the men, 
and the same to the women ; besides firing for the sick 
rooms. Chaff beds, and two rugs to each, are allotted 
to" all the prisoners. The men are attended by a barber 
weekly ; and they have clean linen once every week, which 
is washed and mended by the women. Soap and towels 
are allowed to all. In cases of sickness, the Surgeon 



* Neild's State of Prison*, p. 675. 

$ Lettsom's Letter, Gent. Mag April, 1810. 

U 2 



156 COUNTY BRIDEWELL, 

""J" ■1111,11. I. JITI.II.HI.IIHIH, .III ■■■ ! ■. I ,1 , I. 1 .' ■ ""■ ■ ■""^ 

Internal "Regulations. 

' • " i i . ==T 

orders what he judges necessary, at the expence of th@ 
County. The women are generally supplied with clothing 
from the prison manufactory ; which , if wanted, is given 
them, when discharged. A donation is also made to every 
prisoner, on being released, according to the distance from 
home, and behaviour during confinement. One or two 
shirts, or shifts, a pair of shoes, or a jacket, are presented 
to those, who have been imprisoned six months. 

The act for the preservation of health, and the 
clauses against the use of spirituous liquors, are hung up 
conspicuously to view in the prison. The whole of it is 
white-washed once every year ; and the greatest order and 
cleanliness prevail through every part of it, under the 
careful management of the present conductor, whose 
services have been deservedly marked with public appro- 
bation, by the very considerable addition made to his 
salary. 

Before we close this account of Warwick Bride- 
well, we cannot refuse ourselves the pleasure of transcribing 
the following favorable notice of it, from the pen of Dr. 
Lettsom— so long known, and so highly distinguished 
for his indefatigable exei dons to improve and perfect in 
itself, and to promote throughout the world, the astonish- 
ing and truly humane system of recovering persons from 
apparent death ; as well as for his ardent and active en- 
deavours, on all occasions, to prevent or relieve, in every 
most wretched form, the distresses of human life. " We 
* f have frequently occasion, "says that enlightened and 
benevolent Physician," to notice the lamentable state 
" of Bridewells and Workhouses— but, as a contrast, let 
* s the attention be transferred to that of the Bridewell in 



COUNTY BRIDEWELL. 157 

Officers belonging to the Ptison. 

" Wanvick ; where industry is encouraged, and where the 
" product of labor is appropriated to promote its exercise. 
" It should, indeed, he contemplated by every Magistrate 
" and Overseer in the kingdom." Gent. Mag. April, 1810. 

Keeper, Mr. Jos. Chaplin, salary ^200 
Chaplain, Rev. H. Laugharne, . . 
Surgeon, Mr, Birch, r ... , 




-m 



15* HISTORY OF 



Founded by Ethdfeda, daughter of Alfred. 

Vmmmmimmmmammmimmm^alfmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmt i inn 



CHAP. XYIII. 



^iiStotp of i^attoicft Cattle* 

Founded by Ethelfeda— strengthened and enlarged by order of William f.— and 
granted by him to Henry de Newburg— garrisoned by the royal troops in 
the reign of Henry II.— surprised, and in port destroyed, in the reign of 
Henry TIL — transferred from thejamily of De Nezvburg, to that of De 
Beauchatnp, in th p reign of Edward I. — repaired by the first Thomas de 
Beauchamp — Guys Tozcer built by the Second Thomas de Beauchamp-— 
seized by the Crown* in the reign of Richard II. — restored— enlarged and 
improved, by George D. of Clarence— again seized by the Crown — Bear 
Tower begun by Richard III. — granted to John Dudley — escheated to the 
Crown—granted to Ambrose Dudley— reverted to the Crown— granted to 
Sir Fulke Greville — repaired and adorned by him— greatly improved and 
embellished by the late and the present Earls of Warwick. 



J T appears, according to the Saxon Chonicles,that a Castle 
was founded at Warwick, by Ethelfleda, the accom- 
plished daughter of Alfred the Great, in the year 915.* 
In these early times, a Castle usually consisted of a 
mound of earth, taken from the fosse, surrounding the 
whole ; on which a square tower was erected, called the 
Keep or Dungeon : though the former of these terms be- 
longs more properly to the higher parts of the building, 
in which the family resided ; and the latter, to the deep 
cells, designed for the detention of miserable captives. 
- _-_^ 

* Dug'i. Junes' fi-iiiou, 1765, p. 308, &c. 



WARWICK CASTLE. 159 

Strengthened by order of William J. — granted to Henry de Newburg. 

i — ~~ ' spa 

Of the ancient Saxon Castle, at Warwick, probably, 
nothing more remains except the mound of earth ; within 
which, however, there is every reason to suppose, the 
lower parts of the Dungeon, if sought, would still be 
found. The several parts of the Castle, as at present it 
appears, were built, it is certain, at different times ; nor 
can it be proved that any of these are older than the 
period of the Norman Conquest. Caesar's Tower is ge- 
nerally considered as the most ancient ; but of its erection 
nothing is known : and the name was, in all probability, 
given to it, as well as to one of the Towers of the neigh- 
bouring Castle of Kenilworth, from no other motive, but 
that of veneration for the Ancient Romans. 

At the time of the conquest, as already related,* 
Turchill, the reputed Earl of Warwick, was employed 
by Will. I. to repair and enlarge this important Fortress; 
and, on that occasion, four houses were destroyed, which 
belonged to the Priory of Coventry. Distrustful, however, 
of Turchill, the Congluerqr soon removed him from 
the custody of the Castle ; and committed it to one of his 
own followers, Henry de Newburg, who was the first 
Earl of the Norman line. Wedgnock Park was formed 
by him, and added to the domains of the Castle. In the 
reign of Stephen, the royal garrison, here stationed, was 
driven out, by Gundred, Countess of' Warwick ; and the 
Castle delivered to his great rival, afterwards Henry II. 
In the reign of this latter prince, when his son appeared 
in arms against him, the Castle again received a royal 
garrison. Bertram de Verdon was then Slieriff of the 
county ; and the amount of his charges, for supplies of 



Page 6. 



160 HISTORY OF 

Transferred by marriage to the family of De Beauchamp. 

provision, for wages of the soldiers, and repairs of the 
Castle, still remain upon record. || In the same reign, the 
garrison was increased, by the addition of two knights; 
which before consisted of five knights and ten Serjeants. 

A remarkable proof of the importance, that was 
attached to this Castle, occurs, in the reign of Hen. III. 
On account of its strength, and its advantageous situation, 
as expressly mentioned, § by a royal precept, directed to 
the Archbishop of Fork, and to William de Cantalupe, 
Margery, sister and heiress of Thomas de Newburg, 
sixth Earl, was required to give good security, that she 
would not contract herself in marriage to any person, in 
whom the King could not place his most entire confidence* 
But strong as the Castle was by its fortifications, or by 
the nature of its situation, it soon appeared that it was 
not impregnable. For, in the same reign, 1265, William 
Mauduit, then Earl of Warwick, who had taken part 
with the King against the Barons, was surprised in it, by 
John Gifford, governor of Kenilworth Castle. Great 
part of the walls was destroyed :* the Earl and his 
Countess were earned away captives ; and were afterward* 
obliged to pay for their ransom, 1900 marks.^ 

From the family of De Newburg, the possession 
of the Castle, and its surrounding domains, passed into 
t of De Beauchamp, by the marriage of Isabel, in 



Iqrs or bread corn, £6 13s 4d. — 20 qs of malt, £l.—o0 oxen salted 
d r — 90 cheesfes, £i 10s. od. salt £i— soldier's wages, ,,£30 10s 8d.— repairs, 

is'rn n habet insrentis fortitndinis et situm versus partes Marchiae." 
itien, which one of the smaller towers still bears, was given from a 

IK- > 'v.is imwt taken, this, it appears, in erroneous. 



WARWICK CASTLE. I6'l 

Castle Gate-uai/ built and fortified with Towers — Gu/s Tower erected. 

r n i i ii— ' 

her own right, Countess of Warwick, with William, son 
of Walcherine de Beauchamp, as already related.* 

During the minority of the first Thomas de 
Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, the government of the 
Castle was committed, after several other persons in suc- 
cession, to Roger, Lord Mortimer. It was this Earl, 
admitted by special favor, at the age of 17, to the full 
possession of all his honors and privileges, who rebuilt 
the walls of the Castle, left m a ruinous state, since their 
demolition, in the time of Earl Mauduit. By him als6. 
the strong gates were added, and the gate-ways fortified 
by embattled towers. In the year 1394, the strong and 
stately tower, at the north east angle, was built by the se- 
cond Thomas Beauchamp, son and successor of the 
former, in the Earldom ; and called, in honor of the 
ancient hero of that name, Guys Tower. In 1397, this 
Earl was banished, on a false charge of treason, and the 
custody of the Castle was given to John de Clinton. 
Soon afterwards, however, on the accession of Henry IV* 
he was restored to all his honors and estates. 

From this time, the Castle remained in possession 
of the successive Earls, till the death of George, Duhe 
of Clarence, who had married the daughter and heiress 
of Richard, commonly called the stout Earl of Warwick. 
By him much was done, and more was designed, in order 
to strengthen, enlarge, and adorn this Castle, which he 
had chosen for his principal residence. But the murder- 
ous hand of his unnatural and brutal brother, King 
Richard III. stopped short his course: and, after his 

• Page 30, 



162 HISTORY OF 



Bear Tower begun by Richard III. — Castle granted to Dudley, Earl of Warwick. 

deaths during the minority of his son Edward, the Castle 
was seized by the Crown, 1477 ; and remained in the 
royal possession, during the whole reigns of Henry VII. 
and Henry VIII. Edward himself, no less unfortunate 
than his father, fell a victim to the jealousy of the former 
of those Princes ; and, in him, the title of Earl of 
Warwick, became extinct. 

According to Leland,* " a mighty fayre tower" was 
begun and half finished, on the north side of the Castle 3 
by Richard III. " for to shoot out gunnes." The first 
stone, it is even said, was laid by his own hands. This 5 
no doubt, is that unfinished tower, which appears in the 
inner court, near the gate, leading into the pleasure grounds* 
It is called the Bear Tower ; because in it bears were kept 
confined, with a view to the diversion of bear baiting : 
which was formerly a favorite amusement even to the 
higher classes of society ; and was one amongst the many 
other amusements, provided by the Earl of Leicester, for 
the entertainment of Queen Elizabeth, during her fa- 
mous visit at Kenilworth Castle. 

In the year 1547, ^ rst °f Edward VI. the title 
$f Earl of Warwick, and the Castle, together with con- 
siderable part of the estates, anciently belonging to it, were 
granted to John Dudley, afterwards Duke of Northum- 
berland. On his attainder, the estates escheated to the 
Crown : but were afterwards granted, together with the 
title, by Queen Elizabeth, to Ambrose Dudley, his son, 
who died without issue, 1589. The Castle, and its ap- 
pendages, then reverted once more to the Crown ; and in 
its possession continued, till the 2d of James I. 

* Lei, iv. 1q2 } 163. 



WARWICK CASTLE. lC3 



Castle granted to Fulke Lord Biooke — repaired and enlarged by him. 

m .. ■ ■ ■ , , . 

In that year, 1605, the Castle, with all its gardens 
and other dependencies, was granted in fee to Sir Fulke 
Greville, Knight of the Bath, afterwards created a 
Baron, hy the title of Lord Brooke. He was already in 
possession of the large and ancient park of Wedgenock ; 
which had been granted to him, by Elizabeth. At this 
time, the Castle was in a very ruinous state : and the 
strongest parts of it were used as a County Gaol. Sir 
Fulke, determined to make it the seat of his family, and ex- 
pended ^20,000, in repairing and adorning it. He also 
purchased, and added to its surrounding pleasure grounds, 
the fields opposite its principal front, which formerly bolong-* 
ed to the Knights Templars ; and were thence called Temple 
Fields. Here, he formed large and beautiful plantations ; 
and he, it should seem, as well as the Duke of Clarence, be- 
fore him, had conceived in idea, though it was reserved for a 
distant successor, to carry into execution, the plan of that 
noble park, which now stretches, in extensive and delightful 
view, before the Castle windows. In short, under his trans- 
forming hand, this ancient and venerable pile, as Dugdale 
relates, became a place, " not only once more of strength, 
6i but also of extraordinary delight ; being planted with 
(i the most pleasant gardens, walks, and thickets ; forming 
" the most princely seat within the midland parts of the 
* realm."* In his family, it has continued, without inter- 
ruption, to the present time. 

* Dugdale, Jones's Edition, p. 509. So also it was described, neaily 40 years before, 
by Bishop Corbett, in bis Iter Boreale, referred to, page 71. 

A place of strength and health ; in the same fort 
You would conceive a castle and a court. 
The orchards, gardens, rivers, and the aire, 
Doe with the trenches, rarapires, walls compare: 
It seems not art, nor force can intercept it, 
As if a lover built, a soldier kept it. 

X 2 



l6-i HISTORY OF, &c. 

Castle and its -sounds enlarged nd adorned bit the late and the present Earls. 

But the title of Earl of Warwick, after the death 
of Ambrose Dudley, lay dormant thirty years ; and 
when revived, it was in favor of another family, as already 
related.* When, however, it again became extinct, on the 
death of Edward, Earl of Warwick and Holland, with- 
out male issue ; it was once more revived, in the person 
of Francis Greville, father of the present Earl, great 
grandson of Robert, the nephew and adopted heir of the 
first Lord Brooke. He had been previously raised to the 
dignity of an Earl, by the title of Earl Brooke ; and 
was created Earl of Warwick, by letters patent, bearing 
date November 2"J, 1759- 

By Francis, Earl of Warwick, and by his son, 
the present Earl, great and extensive improvements, have 
been made in the Castle, and its grounds ; of which we 
shall now proceed to give some account — in an attempt 
to describe its present state. But here all description 
must fail ; and, in order to form a just, or at least, an 
adequate idea, either of its external grandeur, or internal 
splendour, it must be seen. We hope, however^ to succeed 
so far as to point out, with some degree of taste and judg- 
ment, whatever is most deserving the attention of the 
stranger ; and to furnish such information, as will enable 
him to see, with greater pleasure, and to recollect after- 
wards, with more distinct impression, what he has seen. 



Page 57, 



APPROACH, &c. 165 



Castellated entrance to the Castle. 



CHAP. XIX. 



38p5roacI> to tf>e Cattle, 

The Entrance — Near View of the Castle — Inner Court, 

V/N the eastern side, near an open space of ground, 
adorned with thriving plantations, is the principal en- 
trance into the Castle. — Here an embattled gate-way, 
with a lodge, has lately been erected : looking, indeed, 
with scarcely sufficient dignity,* for the situation it occu- 
pies, but intended only as a temporary erection. Passing 
through this entrance, the grand approach is conducted, 
by a broad and winding road, deeply cut through the solid 
rock ; which in itself presents a striking appearance, and 
is clothed on each side, with moss and ivy, and crowned 
with trees and shrubs of every diversified form, and every 
various hue. So judiciously curved, and thickly planted, 
is this approach — forming a fine sweep, extending in length, 
more than 300 feet — that every other object is excluded 
from the sight ; till, at a sudden turn, the Castle itself, 
in all its magnificence, bursts, at once, on the astonished 
and delighted view, with great, and even sublime effect. — 
The part of the ground, now entered, was anciently the 
Vineyard; where, it is recorded, abundance of fruit was 



• See, however, what is said, p. { f)7. Considering: ihe impossibility, fr«m thw great 
distance, of sufficiently connecting Ihe Lodge with the Castle; and the difficult of 
forming any design for the former, which could at all vie with the venerab'e grandwer of 
the latter— it may, also, be questioned whether a plain erection, like the present, vumouC 
any pretensions whatever, is not preferable to any attempt at something greater. 



166 APPROACH TO 

M .HI.— II 1 II 1 I H l . »ll »W I M M>Ma«««ag«B«»»MMWMgBMMMM WM»» III M l i BM^ 

Fin* near view of the Castle. 
«■■■ ■'» *■» — — - ■ i 

gathered, even so far back as the time of Henry IV. § 
but whether this fruit was really the grape, has been the 
subject of much dispute. It is now inclosed ; divided 
from the town, and shut out from the view of all its 
meaner buildings, by a screen of trees — -whose rising 
summits, even St. Mary's Tower, and St. Nicholas' Spire, 
lately to be seen here, are no longer able to overtop. In the 
higher grounds, however, they still appear — forming, from 
several points, fine objects. 

Approaching towards the inner court — the near 
view of the Castle, with all its solemn towers and 
battlements, mantled with ivy, and shaded with trees, and 
shrubs, of large size, and luxuriant growth, affords a 
display of picturesque beauty and grandeur, scarcely to be 
exceeded. On the right, appears the mighty Tower of 
Guy, a polygon, of twelve sides, whose walls are of two 
feet thickness ; rising, with the most exact and beautiful 
proportion, from a base of thirty feet diameter, to the 
lofty height of 128 feet. It is of the kind, called ma- 
chicolated — having its open parapets projected from the 
walls of the tower itself, and supported by brackets, so as 
to leave a considerable interval between ; through which, 
boiling lead might be poured, or stones thrown down, 
on the heads of the assailants. Erected in the days of 
Bichard II. this tower has stood unmoved, through the 
long course of four revolving centuries, nor does it yet 
discover any marks of decay. But even this appears little, 
when compared with the age of Cesar's Tower, on the 
left ; the most ancient of the whole ; which, in all pro- 

* From the B<niiri'» Account in the 3d of Henry IV. it appears, that wages were paid 
to seme women »or gathering grapes, during the space ot five days, Dugd. Jones's Edition' 
1765, p. 310. — See the learned Dr. Pegge's Dissertation on the subject. 



THE CASTLE. 167 



Double Arch Gute-zcay into the Inner Court. 



b ability, is nearly, if not quite as old, as the period of the 
Norma?i Conquest. Through the vast space, therefore, 
of 700 years, the tower of Caesar has resisted all the 
accidents and decays of time ; even the sharp edges of the 
stones are not yet worn away ; and it remains, at this mo- 
ment, almost as firm and solid as the very rock, on which 
it stands. Its singular irregularity of construction, may 
puzzle the architectural antiquary ; but the eye of the 
spectator gazes, and admires. From its foundation on 
the naked rock near the bed of the river, it rises with 
majestic form, to the prodigious height of 147 feet; 
though its rival tower, seated on the higher parts of the 
rock, still looks down upon it. The turret on its top is 
said to bear a striking resemblance to one of the towers 
of Chepstow Castle ; which is known to be of early Nor- 
man erection. Caesars, as w T eIl as Guy's Tower, is 
machiiolated, and they are connected together, by a strong 
embattled wall; in the centre of which is the great 
Arched Gate-way, leading into the inner court, flanked 
with towers, and succeeded by a Second arched Gate- 
way, with other towers and battlements loftily ascending 
far above it. — Before this whole front, is a deep moat, 
now kept dry, and formed into a grass walk ; over which, 
an arch is thrown — where, formerly, was the drawbridge, 
— Vast and irregular masses of clustering ivy, and the dark 
shading of high-aspiring and wide-branching trees, which 
are every where interspersed, embellish and complete 
the picture. 

Passing through the long arched passage, formed 
by this double Gate- way, anciently defended by two port- 
cullises, one of which still remain — the Inner Court opens 
to view ; and, here, scarcely can even the most indifferent 



168 APPROACH TO 



Inner Court of the Castle. 



spectator enter, without feelings of high and awful, yet 
pleasing admiration. Here, still, seems to reign the 
grandeur of ancient days, undisturbed by the changes, and 
fluctuations of succeeding ages. The stranger, without 
the aid of much enthusiasm, may here fancy himself, sud- 
denly transported from the scenes and events of present 
times, and carried back to years of old, and scenes long 
past. The age of chivalry, with all its astonishing feats, 
and marvellous adventures, will here forcibly recur to his 
recollection ; and may, for a moment, almost cheat 
his belief. " Even the legends of the Champion Guy," 
it has been remarked, " lose their fabulous appearance, on 
cc a spot, where all the surrounding objects so admirably 
" correspond, with the wonderful exploits of ancient 
Knight Errantry." 



« 



Entering the inner court — on the left of a spacious 
area, appears a grand irregular castellated Mansion, 
a residence fit, as even the high-wrought imagination could 
desire, for the powerful, the splendid, and the hospitable 
Baron of ancient times. It is a vast pile, of great 
strength ; and its venerable antiquity is not injured, by 
the alterations or repairs which modern taste has suggested, 
or progressive time has rendered necessary. On the left 
side, also, is Caesar's Tower, whose irregularity of form 
is here strikingly seen. In front, is the high mound of 
earth — anciently the keep — most beautifully clothed from 
its base, to its summit, with trees and plants, through 
which towers and battlements, at intervals, are seen — 
producing the finest effect — still further heightened, by the 
light unexpectedly breaking through the iron grating of a 
Gothic Gate-Way, which occupies, nearly the central and 
the highest point. Thence the embattled wall is continued, 



THE CASTLE. 169 



Inner Court. 



to the right, overhung with aged ivy ; and occasionally 
hidden from view, by the interposing shade of trees. In 
this part, just rising to the sight, appear two unfinished 
towers, one of which is the Bear Tower, begun by Richard 
III. — and the whole range is grandly terminated, towards 
the right, by the gigantic tower of Guy. — Such is a feeble 
attempt to trace the outlines of a scene — of which, so 
perfect is the fascination, that it would be difficult to say, 
what might be added, that could improve, or what might 
be taken away, that would not injure, the effect of the 
whole. 

After having sufficiently contemplated the views 
of solemn magnificence, which present themselves without 
the Castle — the stranger may next prepare to enter 
within : and we shall now proceed to give some account 
of the rich and varied entertainment, which he may 
there expect. 




-v^ 



170 STATE ROOMS 



Porch—Great Hall. 



CHAP. XX. 



Mate $Lmm$ of tfjc €a£tk. 

Hall — Views from its Windows — large Picture of Charles I. on Horseback — 
Great Djnjng Room — Portrait of the first Lord Brooke — and of 
the Father and Mother of George III. — Ami-Room — Portraits of Ca- 
/ '■ vine of Arr a go a, by L. Da Vinci — of a Lady and her Son, by Vandyck — a 
Pieia by L. Caracci — Flight of Joseph — tao La?idscapes,by Salvator Rosa — 
tu-o Landscapes, by G. Poussin — Cedar Drawing Room — Portrait of E. 
IV. Montague, by Rumney — Portraits of the Countess of Carlisle — 
Charles J. — Vuhe of Alva — Marquis of Montrose — Martin Ryckheart, 
all by Vandyck — Muse of Painting, by Patoun — and Circe, by Guido. 



]\ N elegant Gothic Porch, by a flight of stone steps, 
leads into the interior apartments of the Castle ; of which, 
the first is the Great Hall — whence we shall conduct the 
stranger through the grand suite of rooms, which are 
usually thrown open to public inspection. 



HALL, 



This is a noble room, admirably adapted to the 
scenes of splendid and princely hospitality, which marked 
and dignified the ancient feudal times — measuring in length 
62 feet, in breadth 36, in height 25. It is wainscotted 
with oak, painted : and the ceiling is ornamented in 
plaster. Suspended over the fire-place, are the horns of 



OF THE CASTLE. 171 

Antlers of the Moose Deer — Prospect from the Windows. 

the rein-deer ; and hung up, on three sides of the room, are 
the antlers of the moose-deer. Those over the east door, 
were brought from America; and those over the west 
door, were dug up, on the estate of Lord Hilsborough, 
in Ireland. These latter are of large size, though con- 
siderably inferior in magnitude, to the prodigious pair of 
antlers, opposite the fire-place ; which were a present from 
Lord Mulcaster, and were brought also from Ireland. 
As the moose-deer has not been found in that country, so 
far back as any remaining history extends ; it must be 
supposed that these antlers have lain many centuries 
buried in the bogs. Round the Hall, are hung also, va- 
rious pieces of ancient British Armour ; and, over the 
western door, is a large gun, taken from a Spanish ship, 
by Lord A. Hamilton, grandfather, by the female side, 
of the present Earl of War wide. 

In deep recesses, are the three large Gothic win-r 

doAvs of the Hall — and, amongst the numerous attractions 

of the Castle, not one of the least is, the delightful and 

extensive prospect, commanding a rich and pleasing 

variety of objects, which opens from these, and from all 

the windows of the whole southern range. — Below, at the 

distance of 100 feet, flows the Avon, here of noble 

breadth ; falling, with soothing murmur, down a gentle 

cascade, and washing the foundations of the rock. On 

the left, are seen the ruined arches of the Old Bridge, 

wildly overgrown with shrubs and plants ; whilst, at 

greater distance, rising, in strong contrast, with all its 

modern elegance, appears the noble single arch of the 

New Bridge; enlivened by the moving figures, usually 

seen passing over it. Farther still to the left, the eye 

ranges over a somewhat confined, but pleasing landscape — • 

Y 2 



172 STATE ROOMS 

View of the whole range of State Apartments. 

formed by the winding Avon, and the fertile meads, 
through which it takes its way — terminated by a good 
object, in Myton House. Directly in front— the river, 
dividing into two branches, is seen, encircling a small isle, 
thickly covered with a fine plantation. Thence, pursuing 
its meandering course, to the right, it flows, for the space 
of two miles, appearing and disappearing at intervals, 
through the widely-extended and highly-cultivated park, 
which is every where animated by browsing cattle and 
sheep ; and every where embellished with lofty and spread- 
ing trees- — sometimes, scattered singly about — sometimes, 
grouped into clusters — and, at length, united in mass, 
forming the vast and noble sweep of woods, which bound 
the whole. In the midst of these woods, towers into view, 
the keeper's lodge ; and beyond them, appears a vast 
expanse of country, shut in by the distant hills of Wor- 
cestershire and Gloucestershire. 

Standing in the Great Hall — a view is obtained, 
at a single glance, through the open doors, of the whole 
range of state rooms, on one side, and of domestic apart- 
ments on the other — forming a noble vista, extending 
from one end of the Castle to the other — and measuring 
more than 300 feet — terminated at each extremity, by 
beautiful windows ; one of painted glass, before which is 
seen a large bust, from an ancient Statue of Hercules. 
This latter is now in the British Museum, to which it was 
given, by Sir Wm. Hamilton ; and much resembles the 
famous Statue of the same hero, in the Farnese Palace, 
at Rome, the work of Clycqn. 
i 

From the same room, looking down the long 
arched passage, which leads into the Chapel, at the end, 



OF THE CASTLE. 173 

Portrait of Charles I. on Horseback — Great Dining Room. 

appears a fine picture of Charles I. by Vandyck. The 
King is dressed in armour ; mounted on a grey horse, of 
which the head is beautiful ; and attended by his Equerry, 
Monsieur St. Antoine, holding his helmet — erroneously 
supposed, by some, to be the Duke d'Espernon. The 
head of the latter is fine : that of the King is not an 
original. This is a noble painting ; and at that distance, 
the figures nearly resemble life. — It was given by Prince 
Charles, of Lorrain, to Lord Waldgrave ; and was 
never out of the possession of that family, until purchased 
by the present Earl of Warwick. Sir J. Reynolds 
is said to have offered 500 guineas for it. 

great dining room. 

This apartment was built by the late Earl of 
Warwick ; but the form of the windows, and the whole 
air of the room, preserve great consistency with the 
venerable antiquity of the pile, to which it belongs. 

In this room, Is a large table, formed of various 
antique marbles, curious and beautiful. Here are, also, 
two large marble vases of elegant Etruscan shape j and a 
delft blue vase, all worthy of attention. 

Over the mantle-piece — Portrait of — Sir Fulke 
GREViLLE,Jirst Lord Brooke. — Though he loved to be de- 
signated, the friend of Sir Philip Sidney, Sir Fulke 
had, iu himself, strong claims to high estimation. He was a 
virtuous man, an accomplished nobleman, an upright states- 
man, a writer of merit, and a patron of learning. He died 
by the hands of an enraged domestic, as already re- 



174 STATE ROOMS 



1 ortruit of Futke Lord Brooke — Prince, and Princess of Wales. 

lated.* This fine painting is the production of William 
Patoun ; who, though he had received no previous in- 
struction, yet, by the force of his own native genius alone, 
attained to uncommon excellence in his art. He was 
educated for the profession of a physician, though he 
afterwards declined the practice. He was tutor to the 
present Earl of Warwick. 

On the two opposite sides of the room — are Portraits 
of — Frederick Prince of Wales, and Augusta, his 
Princess. — In the arms of the Princess is a female infant, 
probably the late Dutchess of Brunswick. The former of 
these pictures is by Richardson, and the latter by Philips. 
They are not much to be admired ; the figures are stiff 
and formal. They were a present from Lord Archibald 
Hamilton, to the late Earl. The frames, adorned with 
trophies and other emblems, are very superb. 

anti-room. 

This room is furnished with beautiful chairs, 
worked by the Ladies of the present noble family. It 
contains the following paintings, besides other objects of 
curiosity. 

* See page 40. The following high and just compliment was paid to this noble- 
man, who was then Chancellor of the Exchequer, bj Bishop Corbett, in his Iter Boreale 
so oflen quoted before. Describing his descent from the summit of the hill, on which the. 
North Tower stands, he thus continues : — 

As wee descend, the lord of all this frame, 

The honorable Chancellour, towards us came. 

Above the hiil, ihere blew a gentle breath, 

Yet now we feel a gentler gale beneath. 

The praise and wclicome of this Knight did make, 

The seat more elegant ; every word he spake 

Was wine and music, which be did expose 

To us, if all our art could censure those. 



OF THE CASTLE. 175 

. — — M^— ■ — — — ^— ^— — — . « ,. , „ .1.1 i i i n p g 

Jta'lt Row/2 — Portrait of Queen Cuthttrine* 

Over the fire-place — Portrait of — Catharine of 
Arragon — by L. Da Unci.— The first wife of HenrV 
VIII. greatly distinguished by all the gentle and amiable 
virtues, which become and adorn the female charac- 
ter, and not destitute of the lofty spirit of a Prin- 
cess — though unable to obtain, or long to secure, the 
affections of a capricious husband. This is a valuable 
painting, by Lionardo da Vinci, so highly celebrated as 
a painter of very enlarged genius and solid judgment; 
But though his designs are always correct, and his ex- 
pression natural and powerful, yet is colouring is not 
considered as agreeable, from the excess of violent tints 
which appears in all his pictures. 

On the right side — A Pieta, or Dead Christ — 
hij Lewis Caravci — who particularly excelled in re- 
ligious subject's ; and whose composition is considered as 
always pleasing, and sometimes sublime. 

On the left side — Flight of Joseph into Egypt— 
in the manner of Rubens. 

Opposite the fire-place — whole length— A Lady 
and her Son — Fandyck. — The face and drapery very fine. 
The works of Vandyck form the largest part of the present 
fine collection. Pie excelled in history, but most of all in 
portrait.* In this latter, he always gave an inexpressible 
grace to his heads ; shewed great variety in the airs ; and 
in some, the character is even sublime. The extre- 
mities of figures, especially the hands, are true, graceful, 



* 'l he man u( Genius who can draw from his imagination some noble character — a 
hero— a patriarch — or a saini — cuftirat(-s>ceri?inlj> a more sublime an, than he who caa 
draw together a composition only of trees and mountain* Gilpin's Dial sues, p. 3:)!. 



176 STATE ROOMS 

f ■ h i mm m l I —————— I , I i i , 

Landscapes by S. Rosa — Ditto by Caspar Poussin. 

and exact : the draperies are cast in a grand style, and 
the colouring is truly excellent. 

On each side — are two Landscapes — one, rock, 
trees, and banditti — in the other is the horrible represen- 
tation of a crucifixion, while rock and stunted trees 
and dreary desolation form the surrounding scenery — by 
Salvator Rosa — a painter as every one knows, of 
the very highest rank. He composed all his subjects 
in a grand style, and his designs were singularly cor- 
rect. He delights in ideas of solitude, desolation, and 
danger, in alpine ridges, in impenetrable forests, in rocky 
or storm-lashed shores, in trees blasted by lightning, and 
suns shorn of their beams. His figures usually are wan- 
dering shepherds, forlorn travellers, wretched mariners, 
and brnditti lurking for their prey, or dividing their 
spoils. His works are exceedingly rare and valuable. — Be^ 
tween these, on a small cabinet, stand two vessels of bronze, 
called prcefericula, because carried open before the priests, 
at their sacrifices : and on two other small cabinets, two 
vases of lava, with double handles. 

Opposite the window — Two Landscapes — rock, 
woods, and water in fine assemblage— by Gaspar Poussin. 
—This Painter was born in France, and was undoubtedly 
one of the greatest painters of landscape that ever appear- 
ed. His scenes are always beautifully chosen ; his 
distances recede from the eye with true perspective, his 
grounds are charmingly broken, and all his figures, trees, 
and other objects, are always judiciously placed. — 
Between these, stands a curious Cabinet, inlaid with 
brass, containing some fine specimens of delft-ware. 
Upon it, is a fine Nola Vase, painted. 



OF THE CASTLE. 17; 

Bust of Minerva — Cedar Drowing-Room. 

In the two corners, near the windows, are a Young 
Triton and his Companion, standing upon superb pedestals. 
— Between them, is a table of the curious pietra commessa, 
or mixed stone work — the slab being a sort of marble, 
inlaid with precious stones, among which the fine blue 
lapis lazuli is very conspicuous, forming, through he 
whole, beautiful flowers. On this table, is placed, a fine 
marble bust, done from the Justini^ni Minerva, at Rome. 

Over the west door, is a Bust of Lord Nelson, in 
bronze. 

Cedar Drawing-Room. 

This is a large and handsome apartment, measur- 
ing 47 feet by 25. The ceiling is formed in plaster, with 
much elegance. The mirrors are splendid, and the rest 
of the furniture antique and curious. The marble, in the 
central part of the chimney-piece, is extremely beautiful, 
of a kind unknown ; and is said to be the only speci- 
men in England. It is supposed, however, by some, to 
be BroCadillo di Spagno. 

The marble table, opposite the fire-place, is inlaid 
with lava of Vesuvius ; and those, at each end of the 
room, are of Egyptian marble, called by some, the black 
antique, of which, the quarries are unknown. Below these 
last, are placed two very curious china cisterns, having 
the lotus plant, beautifully painted, within : — 

Standing on pedestals and small cabinets, in this 
room, are several Etruscan vases, in pairs and single, some 
of precious value. The paintings are as follows: 

Over the mantle-piece — Portrait of — Edward 
Wortley Montague — an Englishman, in a Turkish dress. 

z 



178 STATE ROOMS 



Portrait of Edwa?-d Wort ley Montague. 



by Romney. — He was a character of the strangest ec- 
centricity. When a boy at Westminster^ school, he 
eloped, and was found in the disguise of a chimney 
sweeper. Afterwards, he became a fisher-boy ; then a 
cabin-boy ; and, finally, a mule driver, in Spain. Being 
discovered in this last situation, he was restored to his 
friends. Afterwards, he attended, with some advantage, 
the instructions of a private tutor; then, he served 
as a member in two successive Parliaments, and be- 
haved for a time with suitable dignity. But, at length, 
the rambling fit returned ; and he travelled through 
Italy, Spain, and finally, through European and Asiatic 
Turkey ; where he adopted the dress and the manners of 
the Turks. In a frolic, he married a washerwoman, and 
then refused to cohabit with her. After her death, to pre- 
vent the estate from devolving to the children of Lady 
Bute, his sister, he advertised for a decent young woman, 
in a state oj pregnancy, as a wife.* His offer was accepted ; 
but the marriage was prevented by his death, 177^. — The 
original of this fine picture was painted at Venice : and 
so attentively and successfully had the artist studied the 
Venetian colourists, that this might be easily mistaken for 
one of the best productions of that celebrated school. It 
was his own favorite work : and was long retained in his 
study, for his own use. He afterwards permitted a small 
print to be taken from it, as a decoration to Seward's 
Anecdotes of distinguished Persons : and, some time before 
his death, presented the original itself to a friend. The 
present copy, taken by Romney himself, in no respect in- 
ferior to the original, says Mr. Nichols, tf with other 
" exquisite portraits, by the same Master, is ranked among 

* Nichols' History of Leicestershire. 



OF THE CASTLE. 179 



Portrait of the Countess of Carlisle— Charles I. — D'/^e of Alva. 

■ ee the choicest modern ornaments of that magnificent and 
" interesting old mansion, Warwick Castle" 

Opposite the fire-place — -centre-piece — a whole- 
length of — Lucy, Countess of Carlisle — by Vandyck. — 
She was the daughter of Percy, Earl of Northumber- 
land, and wife of Hay, Earl of Carlisle. She is de- 
scribed as a great wit. a husy politician, and a puritanical 
saint, and is s. ;d to have been the mistress first of Straf- 
for d, and afterwards of Pym.* Next to Lady Dorothea 
Sidney, celebrated under the name of Sacharissa, the 
Countess of Carlisle stands distinguished, in the verses of 
Waller ; and appears there, indeed, to more advantage, 
than in the portraits of Vandyck. " This great painter,'* 
says Walpole, " has left us to wonder, that the famous 
" Countess of Carlisle could be thought so charming." It 
was not, however, as Granger remarks, so much for 
her beauty, that she became the object of general admi- 
ration, as for her sprightly wit and fascinating manners. 

Opposite the fire-place — right side — Charles I. — 
by Vandyck. — This picture is said to have been once in the 
possession of Charles himself. The King has all that 
melancholy grace, which Vandyck alone, of all his paint- 
ers, knew how to give him.;*: He was not the worst, but 
the most unfortunate of Kings. 

Near the door — Don Ferdinand De Toledo, Duke 
of Alva— by Vandyck.^ — He was an able and valiant 

* Warwick's Memoirs, page 20 4. 
X Horace Walpoie. 

§ If thu portrait was painted by Vandyck, it cannot be an original, as the Duke of 
Alva died 19 years before Vandyck was bom. 

Z 2 



180 STATE ROOMS 



Portrait of Prince Rupert — Marquis of Montrose. 



general, high in the favor of Charles V. and Philip II. 
but " damned to eternal fame/' says Granger, for his 
cruelties in the Low Countries, which then meditated a 
revolt from the Spanish yoke. Here, he is said to have 
boa ted that, within a few years, he dispatched, by the 
hands of the common executioner, 3,600 souls. 

Left side — James Graham, Mar&uis of Mon- 
trose — by Vandych — " the radiant eye proclaims the va- 
liant chief." — This great hero of his age, was no less 
distinguished, by his accomplishments as a scholar, his 
high-born greatness of soul as a noble, his ardent and 
generous feelings of humanity as a man, than by his 
consummate skill, and dauntless courage, as a general. 
Involved in the fortunes of the Stuarts, to whom he 
faithfully adhered, he was treacherously betrayed, and 
carried to Edinburgh ; where he was executed, with every 
possible mark of indignity, on a gibbet 30 feet high, 1650. 
Even his book, written in elegant Latin, containing an 
account of his own life, was ignominiously tied about his 
neck, by the hands of the executioner. But he bore all 
his wrongs, with unconquerable greatness of mind — with 
a dignified and disdainful superiority to all that the rage and 
malice of his foes could inflict. " During these turbulent 
times, many instances of active valour occur," says Gran- 
ger, " but Montrose is the only instance of heroism !"* 
— This fine painting, an undoubted original, was formerly 
in the possession of Lord Newhaven. 



* See the character of this Nobleman, fairly and strikingly delineated in Clarenthn's 
History of the Rebellion, v. iii. page $56. — " Let a man," says Richardson," read a charac- 
ter in my Lord Clarendon, and he will find it improved, by seeing a picture of the same 
person by Vandyck." 



OF THE CASTLE. 1S1 



Portrait of Ryckaert — Muse of Painting — Circe. 



Near the door — Martin Ryckaert — hyVandyck. 
— - Ryckaert, a native of Antwerp, was eminent as apainter 
of landscape; and stood high in the estimation of Vandyck ; 
and other distinguished men of the same profession. He 
was horn with only the left arm, and died \636< 

Over the east door is — The Muse of Painting — > 
extremely delicate — by W. Patoun. 

Over the west door — Circe — by Guido — with her 
magic wand and enchanted cup — neither of which, says Mr. 
Warner, § a would this enchantress have needed, had she 
" possessed such a pair of eyes, as the painter has given her." 
— This is, indeed, a very fine picture by that astonish- 
ing artist, in whose superior genius, the various excel- 
lencies of painting seem to be united. All subjects, however, 
were not equally adapted to him. The tender, the pathetic, 
the devout, in which he could manifest the sweetness and 
the delicacy of his thoughts, were those in which he excel- 
led. The heads of his figures are accounted not inferior to 
Raphael, either for correctness of design, or propriety 
and force of expression. His female forms, are exquisitely 
fine ; and the moving and persuasive beauty they possess, 
proceed not so much from the regularity of the features, 
as from the lovely turn of the mouth, and the enchanting 
softness and modesty of the eye. His draperies are al- 
ways disposed in grand style, and his colouring is, 
astonishingly clear and pure. 



$ North. Tour, page J44. 



182 STATE ROOMS 



GUI R< 



CHAP. XXI. 



£>tatz &ooni£ of t$z Cattle* 

(continued.) 

Gilt Room — Portraits of Earl of Arundel — Ptince Rupert — William, Prince 
of Orange — a General — Rubens' first Wife — a Lady — a Spanish General 

Earl of Lindsay — a Nobleman — Lgnatius Loyola — Charles 1. — Earl of 

Slrajord — Davilla—Rich Earl of Warwick — Prince Rupert — Girl 
blowing bubbles — Girl with a feather — Muchiavd — Marquis of 
Huntley— Burgomaster-- Earl of Strafford— -Henrietta Maria — State 
Bed Room — Bust of Edward the Black Prince — Portraits of the Dutchess 
of Parma— A Lady — Robert Earl of Essex — State Dressing Room — 
J$oy with a racket — Portrait of the Duchess of Cleveland — Sketch of the 
four Evangelists- Two landscapes by Salvalor Rosa — Portraits of the 
Dutchess of Bedford — William, First Duke of Bedford — Francis, Second 
Earl of Bedford — A Storm— Portrait of Luther — Boy in armour — two 
Portraits of Charles' Beauties— Henry IV. — a Sorceress and Companion — 
one of Lord Brooke's children — Triton — JUrs. Digby — two Heads — o 
Sebastian— Bacchanalians — Inside of a Church— a Guard Room— a 

Hoy an old Woman eating pottage — Portraits of Catharine and Anne 

Bolevn— Peter in Prison — Peter delivered. 



j\ EXT beyond the Cedar Drawing-room, which takes 
its name from the wood with which it is beautifully wain- 
scotted, is another, called, from the manner in which its 
ceiling and its walls are finished, 

THE GILT ROOM. 

The ceiling of this room is splendid, and the 
chimney-piece very beautiful. On its mantle, are a large 



OF THE CASTLE. i S 3 



Portrait of the Earl of Arundel — Prince Rupert, 



«pright ? two handled St. Agatha's Vase, two long eared 
Globular vases, with Isis' head, in terra cotta, and two 
tazzas, or drinking cups. — The paintings are — 

Over the mantle-piece — centre — Thomas How- 
ard., Earl of Arundel — by Rubens. — To this Noble- 
man, the elegant arts are more indebted for encouragement 
than to any other of his time. He was the collector of 
the " ArundeUan Marbles" presented by his grandson to 
the University of Oxford : amongst which is the celebrated 
" Parian Chronicle." This fine picture glowing with all 
the warmth and animation of real life, is pronounced by 
Mr. Lawrence, painter to his Majesty, to be the best 
in the whole collection. Among the other paintings, in 
this room, there is one, however, which may well dispute the 
pre-eminence even with this. It is by the same great artist 
— of whom, it is almost needless to say, that for magic of 
colouring, fertility of invention, and grandeur of com- 
position, he has ever been, as he ever will be, the object 
of high and universal admiration. He came into England, 
to negociate a peace between Philip IV. of Spain, and 
Charles I. which was soon concluded. The King con- 
ferred on him the honour of Knighthood, and engaged 
him to paint the Banqueting house, at Whitehall. He 
excelled in almost every branch of his art, but his greatest 
excellence was in history or landscape. So high is his 
fame as an artist, that the rest of his character is little 
attended to. But if he had never handled a pencil, says 
Granger, his accomplishments as a gentleman, a scholar, 
and a statesman, would have set him far above the common 
level of mankind. He was born at Cologne, 15/ 7, and 
died at Antwerp, 1640. 



184 STATE ROOMS. 



] 'or trait of the Prince of Orange— a General — Rubens' first Wife. 



Right side of the mantle-piece, above— portrait of 
Prince Rupert. — Painter unknown. 

On the same side of the niantle-piece, below— Wil- 
liam, Prince of Orange — by Holbein. — This Prince was 
married before he was 1 5,, to Mary, daughter of Charles I. 
He was a man of courage and enterprise ; but sullied his 
character, by aiming at arbitrary power ; and shortened 
his life, by chagrin at the disappointment of his views. 
His posthumous son, William, pursued a nobler course : 
he first secured the liberties of his own country ; and 
then offered himself, the protector of their rights and 
liberties, to the English nation, over whom he afterwards 
reigned — equally and highly distinguished, by the wis- 
dom, and the beneficence of his government, and by the 
splendour and giory of his military exploits. 

Left side of the mantle-piece, above — Portrait of 
A General— with his truncheon— % Vandyck, 

On the same side of the mantle-piece, below — 
Rubens' first Wife— by himself. — Though it was the 
second wife of this great painter who was so highly cele- 
brated for her exquisite beauty; yet, there appears no 
want of those charms which u the looker's eyes allure"* 
even in his first. 

Left side of the window, above — -Portrait of — A 
Lady — by Sir Peter Lely. — His pencii§ was light and 
delicate ; the attitudes of his figures, graceful, natural, 
and well-chosen ; the heads of his portraits remarkably 



Spenser. ' S Pilkingtoo. 



OF THE CASTLE. 185 

Portrait of the Earl of Lindsay. 

fine and elegantly turned. His draperies have an agree* 
able negligence, with broad folds ; and, in that, and o her 
respects, his works are easily distinguishable from those of 
all other artists. In his female portraits, there is a pe- 
culiarity of expression, a languishing air, and a look of 
sweetness, blended with drowsiness in the eye ; and as 
this expression is the same in all, he is considered as a 
mannerist. The ladies were always pleased to be drawn by 
his hand, as he knew how to bestow beauty, where nature 
had denied it. It is justly said of him, that " he painted 
many fine pictures, but few good portraits." He died l6S0. 

Right side of the window, above — Robert Bertie, 
Earl of Lindsay — by Corn.Janssen. — The Earl of Lind- 
say was an able and valiant Commander ; and, on the 
breaking out of the civil war, was appointed General of the 
King's forces. At the battle of Edge Hill, he was mor- 
tally wounded ; whence he was brought prisoner to this 
Castle; where he almost immediately expired 1642. His 
son, in endeavouring to rescue his father, was also taken 
prisoner, and was long a captive in the same castle. Here 
he wrote a very spirited, and, in some parts, even eloquent 
defence* of his Royal Master; to whom he was fervently 
devoted, during all the misfortunes of his life : and to 
whom he paid the last melancholy offices, after his death, 
by attending his remains to St. Georges Chapel, Windsor; 
where they were interred, and where they were lately 
found. — This is the one of the two acknowledged portraits 
in the present collection, by C. Janssen, who was born 
at Amsterdam, and appointed portrait painter to James I. 
His style of colouring is clear and lively ; his touch light, 



* A copy of this curious TampMet, published in 1643, is now in l! e possession of 
William Stsuatoo^ Est. of Longbridge. 

A A 



186 STATE ROOMS 

Portrait of a Nobleman — Spanish General. 

and his pencil truly delicate. He had not the freedom, 
nor the grace of Vandyck ; hut, in other respects, he is 
accounted his equal ; and, in the finishing of his pictures, 
his superior. His paintings, which are usually on hoard, 
are easily distinguished by their smooth, clear, and deli- 
cate touch ; and by that character of truth and nature, with 
which they are so strongly marked. 

Left side of the window— below — Portrait of A 
Spanish General — by Vandyck. 

Right side of the window — below — A Nobleman 
— by Vandyck. — He is, however, supposed by some, to be 
Lord Darnley, consort of the Scottish ()ueen, more 
distinguished by beauty of person, than by any intellectual 
or moral worth. He murdered Reggio, favourite of the 
Queen ; and was himself murdered, in revenge, 1566. 

Opposite the fire-place — centre piece — Ignatius 
Loyola — whole length — by Rubens. — This picture was 
painted originally for the Jesuits' College, at Antiverp ; 
and brought thence to England, not many years ago. It is 
generally esteemed the finest painting in the Castle ; and 
is, indeed, by the acknowledgment of the most critical 
judges, superlatively excellent. The expression of the 
countenance is great;* the eye is finely raised to a burst of 
light; the robes are superb ; and the fore-shortening of the 
hand and foot is managed with exquisite skill; they seem to 
advance from the canvas. Ignatius, celebrated as the 



* '' When has a REYNOLDSora West, been able to animate their Saints with thai 
" sup2rnatural cast of features, — with that ray of Promethean light, which a Raphaf.i, 
■« and a Rubens, have borrowed from Heaven itself, wherewith to inspire them ?"— 
Milncr's Antiquities of Winchester, 



OF THE CASTLE. I87 

Portrait of Ignatius Loyola. 

founder of the order of the Jesuits, originally an officer 
in the Spanish army, was a man of small abilities, and 
slight attainments in literature. Wounded at the siege of 
Pampeluna, and confined, in consequence, to his chamber, 
his mind was turned, for amusement, to reading : and, 
among the books that were brought to him — on such 
trifling accidents do great events sometimes depend ! 
— his attention Avas caught by " The Lives of the Saints." — 
Instantly his ardent imagination was fired with the idea of 
distinguishing himself, in the service of God : and he re- 
solved to become a Knight of the Holy Virgin. Asso- 
ciating with four or five other persons, some of whom were 
far more able and artful than himself — the Order of the 
Jesuits was founded — -the most extensive, the most power- 
ful ; in some respects, the most actively useful ; and in many , 
respects, the most fatally mischievous, of all the religious 
fraternities. But, in time, its usefulness diminished; whilst 
the injuries, it inflicted on mankind, grew in number and 
enormity, and became at length insupportable. This or- 
der began 1540 ; and was finally suppressed, with the ap- 
probation of the whole Christian World, by Clement 
XIII. 17/3.* But whatever evils afterwards proceeded 
from it, they were certainly not within the contemplation 
of its founder — a weak, but honest enthusiast ; whose sin- 
cere and sole view was, what he conceived to be the glory 
of God, and the good of Man. He died at Rome, 1556. 
— The lines;*; in the book, held by Ignatius, may thus be 
given in English. — " Whosoever, with a view to promote 
the glory of God, devotes himself to the service of Jesus 



* Robertson's Charles V. 

t Ad majoram Dei Gloriam quicunque liuic Jesa Cliristi militias nomen dederinr, die 
nocteque succiacti lurnbos, tt ad tarn grandis debiti solutioncm, prompti esse debenr, 

A A 2 



188 STATE ROOMS 

Portrait of the Earl of Northumberland — Charles I. — Earl of Strafford. 

Christ, in this society, ought to gird up his loins, and 
to be constantly vigilant and active, in discharging the 
duties of an engagement, so greatly and solemnly im- 
portant." 

Opposite the fire-place — left side, below — Alger- 
non Percy, Earl of Northumberland— by Vandyck. — 
This nobleman was, in l637> advanced to the dignity of 
Lord High Admiral. He was lofty in his carriage, and 
elevated in his sentiments of liberty. He took, therefore, 
the side of the Parliament, in their opposition to the 
arbitrary measures of the misguided Charles. For this, 
he was deprived of his Commission; which was bestowed 
upon Rich Earl of Warwick ; whose portrait is also in 
the same room. 

Opposite the fire-place — left side, above — 
Charles I. — by Vandyck. — When one of Vandygk's 
portraits of this Prince was shewn to the famous sculp- 
tor, Bernini, he is said to have pronounced it, the most 
unfortunate physiognomy he ever saw ! 

Opposite the fire-place — right side, above — Tho- 
mas Wentworth, Earl of Strafford — by Vandyck. — 
This Nobleman was one of the most distinguished persons 
of the age, in which he lived. At first, a bold and most 
able leader of the popular party, in the turbulent reign of 
Charles I. he afterwards openly deserted, and vehemently 
opposed it. It is impossible to acquit him from the charge, 
of promoting too much those arbitrary measures, which 
led to his own ruin ; and, in the end, to that of his Royal 
Master. But the sentence, which condemned him to die, 
against every principle of law and justice, stamps with 



OF THE CASTLE. 189 



Portrait of Davilla — Rich Eur I of Warwick 



deepest disgrace the character, both of the people, who 
demanded it, and of the Prince, who suffered it to be 
executed. He was beheaded on Tower Hill, May 12, 
1641, and bowed to ail the cruel and unjust severities of 
his fate, with a firmness of mind, and dignity of manner, 
which have rarely been exceeded. 

Opposite the fire-place — right side, below — Henry 
Catharine Davilla — by Tintoretto. — Davilla was born 
in Cyprus ; but went early to France, where he served in 
the army, with credit. He afterwards settled at Venice ; 
where he received an honourable pension. He was killed 
by a pistol-shot, on a journey from Padua to Verona, 
l634. He wrote, in Italian, u The History of the Civil 
ec Wars in France," including a period of 40 years, end- 
ing 1589. Bolingbroke scruples not to place him in 
rank, as an historian, next to Livy. — This is a good por- 
trait, by one of the first masters of the Venetian School. 
His manner of painting is described as bold, with strong 
lights, opposed by deep shadows ; his pencil is wonderfully 
firm and free, his disposition good, his execution easy, 
his touch lively and spirited : and, in colouring, he ap- 
proached near to Titian. Yet his works are very un- 
equal ; so that it was said of him, " he appears sometimes 
" equal to Titian, and sometimes inferior to himself." 

Opposite the window — left side of the door — 
Robert Rich, Earl op Warwick — whole length — by 
Vandyck. — He was the second Earl of that family ; and 
was created Lord High Admiral of England, for which 
he appeared not sufficiently qualified. He was handsome 
in his person, and facetious in his conversation : religious 
in his professions, but licentious in his morals. He diod, 
160S, 



190 STATE ROOMS 

._,,.,. i... j j. -iiiiiwi. m>«« ■■■■ ■»—«■ I. i ii! mi in r ■»» 

/ hi trait of Princ? Bup&rt — Girl blowing bubbles — Girt with u feather. 

Opfosite the window, right side of the door — 
Prince Rupert — a fine whole-length-— hy Vandyck. — He 
was the son of the Elector Palatine and Elizabeth, 
daughter of James I. When his Uncle, Charles I. 
raised the Royal Standard at Nottingham , he came over, 
to support his cause. " As a military officer," says Gran- 
ger, " he was rash, even to temerity : he seldom engaged, 
but he obtained the advantage, which he again lost, by 
pursuing it too far." After he had too precipitately sur- 
rendered Bristol to Fairfax, he retired in disgrace to 
the Continent. In the Court of Charles II. he wa& 
again received into favour : and was promoted to the com- 
mand of the British fleet. Here his impetuous valor was 
in its true element. He died 1692. 

Opposite the window, right corner, above — A 
Girl blowing bubbles — hy Miirillo. — This Spanish ar- 
tist greatly excelled as an historical Painter ; but his fa- 
vourite subjects were boys and girls, placed in various atti- 
tudes, and engaged in different amusements. These he 
usually designed after nature, and gave them a good and 
strong expression. He had an exquisite pencil ; his co- 
louring is mellow, and, produces a surprising effect by the 
clearness of his tints, skilfully opposed by proper shadows; 
and there is a striking character of truth and nature, in 
all his paintings. The Spaniards boast that Murillo be- 
came a great painter without ever travelling out of Spain. 

Opposite the window, left corner, above— A 
Girl with a feather — by Murillo.— A companion to 
the former. 

Opposite the window, right corner, below — Portrait of 
—Machiavel — by Vandyck, — A copy from Titian, paint- 



OF THE CASTLE. 191 

i l wiii— g^i— ■ — *n — ■— — «p^— »^— — — j !■ 1 1 n n 

Portrait of Machiavel — Xlarquisof Hunt lei/ — Burgomaster — Earl of Strafford. 

ed at Florence. Machiavel, a celebrated Florentine writer, 
united the liveliest wit, with the profoundest reflection ; 
and composed comedies, whilst he was writing a political 
history of his country. u He was," says Mr. Roscoe, "an 
acute, but not a great man." This is considered as a 
very characteristic portrait ; the fire of the eye, aud the 
sagacity of the countenance, mark, at once, boldness and 
depth of thought. 

Opposite the window — left corner, below — Mar- 
uuis of Huntley — by Vandyck. 

Over the centre door — Portrait of A Burgo- 
master — Painter unknown. 

Over the east door — is a second portrait of the 
Earl of Strafford — by Vandyck — nearly opposite to 
the first. — " In his person" says Sir Philip Warwicke, of 
this Nobleman, whom he knew, (C he was of tall stature, 
but stooped much in the neck. His countenance was 
cloudy, whilst he moved or sat, thinking : but when he 
spoke, seriously, or facetiously, he had a lightsome and 
very pleasant ayre : and indeed, whatever he did, he did 
gracefully." 

Over the west door — Henrietta Maria — by Van- 
dyck. — The countenance lively, the drapery very fine — 
companion to the portrait of her consort Charles I. in 
the same room. — This beautiful and accomplished Princess 
was the daughter of Henry IV. of France, and inherited 
much of her father's noble and generous spirit ; by her 
many amiable qualities, both of person and disposition, 
she deserved, and she obtained, the tenderest affections of 



192 STATE ROOMS 

Portrait of Henrietta Maria — State Bed Room. 

her husband : but her judgment was not entitled to all 
that deference, with which it was regarded by him. It 
was she, who advised or promoted, many of the rash and 
inconsiderate measures, adopted by that unfortunate Mo- 
narch, contrary to his own natural and cautious prudence. 
f* And yet" says Granger^ " whoever looks at her charm- 
ing portraits, will cease to wonder at even the excess of 
her influence over her husband's mind." In one of How- 
ell's Letters, who lived at the time, her person is thus 
described. " We have now a most noble new Queen of 
" England ; who, in true beauty, is much beyond the long 
" wooed Infanta. This daughter of France, this young- 
c( est branch of Bourbon, is of a more lovely and lasting 
" complexion, a dark brown. She has eyes that sparkle 
" like stars : and, for her physiognomy, she may be said 
" to be a mirror of perfection." The last days of this 
unhappy Princess were not only saddened with sorrow, 
but even distressed by pecuniary necessities : and History 
weeps, when she records the fact, that the illustrious 
daughter of Henry the Great, and the Queen of 
Charles I. was reduced to the extremity of lying in bed, 
for want of fuel for a fire ! In the end, it appears, she 
was secretly married to Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. 
Albans ; who, however, treated her with neglect, and 
even with cruelty. She died in France 1669. 

state bed room. 

The bed and furniture of this room are of crimson 
velvet, embroidered with green and yellow silk. They 
belonged to Queen Anne : and were given, by the present 
King, to the late Earl of Warwick. The room is hung 
with tapestry, which appears by the date of it, to have 



** 



OF THE CASTLE. 193 

Bust of Edward the Black Prince. 

been made at Brussels, 1604. It is supposed to repre- 
sent the Gardens of Versailles, as they were at that time. 
— The chimney-piece, executed by Westmacott, is re- 
markably handsome. It is formed of verd antique and 
white marble. Two black marble vases stand on its man- 
tle ; and a bronze copy of the Borghese Vase on the 
hearth. 

Here is a Cabinet highly curious, made of ebony, 
inlaid with wood of various shades and colours, beautifully 
representing flowers, birds, and various animals. On this 
Cabinet, stands a chrystal cup, mounted, between two en- 
graved chrystal vials. Behind, are a bronze lion and 
lioness. On another cabinet, opposite the window, is an 
essence vase, of the old enamel, on copper mounted on 
or moulou. 

Here, also, placed on a table, in the window, is a 
bust, in white marble, of Edward the Black Prince — that 
greatest of British heroes, whose pure and illustrious name, 
is fitted to adorn and dignify, not his own rude age only, 
but the most splendid period of ancient or modern his- 
tory.* The power of language is, indeed, unequal to the 
great and extraordinary merits, which raised him so tran- 
scendently high ; and diffused around him a blaze of glory 
never to be extinguished or obscured. Among the most 
perfect and the most exalted of human characters, which 
the pen of History has traced, that of Edward, the 
Black Prince, will ever be contemplated with proud de- 
light, mingled with almost awful veneration. — The head 



* Hums. 



194 , STATE ROOMS 



Portrait of the Dutchess of Parma — Family Portrait. 



of this bust is exceedingly fioe,|| bat the chest is too much 
flattened. It is supposed to be the work of Weldon.— 
The paintings in this room are the three following :— 

Over the mantle-piece — Margaret, Dutchess of 
Parma — hy Titian— -She was the natural daughter of the 
Emperor Charles V. and was Regent of the Netherlands, 
in the reign of Phillip II. This is a grand whole length, 
hy the great master of colouring ; whose height of excel- 
lence, in this department of the art, few have approached^ 
and none have reached. He is the father of portrait-paint- 
ing ; and knew how to give resemblance with form, character 
with dignity, grace with simplicity, and costume with taste. § 
In general, however, his male portraits are not designed 
so correctly or elegantly, as those of his females : yet his 
colouring has ever the look of real life, and his figures 
breathe. " Above all others," says Gilpin,^: " Titian's art 
" of realising life excites our admiration. How often have 
" I stood gazing at his portraits of celebrated personaees > 
" till I have seen them move, and heard them speak." 
This illustrious artist was born in Friuli, a Venetian pro- 
vince ; studied first at Venice, afterwards at Rome ; and 
closed a long life of splendid reputation and uninterrupted 
health, at the uncommon age of 96. 

Over the east door— ^A Family Portrait— &# Sir 
Peter Lely. — That tender languish-went, before* noticed, 
as his peculiar manner of expression, is here very apparent. 



d lathe family of Lord Onslow, is a head of the Black Prince, which there h 
reason to believe was painted at the time. It is not very ill done. Il represents him in a 
Mack armour, embossed with gold, with a golden lion on his breast. He has a hat on, 
with a white feather, and a large ruby. He appears lean and pale, as he was towards 
the end of "'life.— Walpoles' Anecdotes. 

§ FtsELr. t Dialogues p. 387. * Page L85. 



OF THE CASTLE. 195 

' u« 1 .■ . . „ 1 ■ 1 ■ . ■ 1 11 

Portrait of the Earl of Essex — Dressing Room. 

Over the east door — Robert Devereux, Earl of 
Essex — by Federlgo Zuccaro — -an Italian painter, who 
came into England, in the reign of Elizabeth. lie 
possessed considerable genins ; his colouring produces 
great effect ; and his drawing is generally good. Though 
some defects have heen pointed out, particularly in 
the hair of his heads, yet his paintings are highly priz- 
ed ; and will for ever entitle him to be considered, as a 
very eminent master .-*-This portrait is an undoubted 
original of a generous, high spirited, and accomplished 
Nobleman, the favourite of the people, as well as of the 
Sovereign. " But he was too open and honest" says 
Granger, " for a Court." The dark and deliberate malice 
of his enemies took advantage of his warmth of temper ; 
and hurried him on to those fatal extremities, which 
ended in his death, on the scaffold, Feb. 25, l6oi, His 
character displayed many shining virtues. He was 
brave, sincere, and affectionate. His unfortunate end has 
formed the subject of four different tragedies, 



STATE DRESSING ROOM. 

This is a beautiful little room, hung with pea- 
green satin. The ceiling is elegant: and the prospect, 
which the large windows afford, strikingly attractive — 
extending, from a new point of view, over the slopes and 
swells, the clustered trees, the spreading groves, and 
winding waters, of the large and noble park, terminated 
by the blue hills in the distance. The elegant rialto of 
one arch, formerly to be seen from these windows, is 
now intercepted from the view, by the thickening and 
enlarging shades of the surrounding woods. 

b b 2 



196 STATE ROOMS 

Portrait of a Boy — Dutchess of Cleveland — Sketch — Landscape. 

On a cabinet, stands a small model of the Sar- 
cophagus of Agrippina, in lava : and underneath, a cask- 
et for jewels, formed of the pietra commessa. Here, also, 
are to be seen, a copy of the Medici Lion, and several 
Etruscan vases. 

The paintings, which are very numerous, are as 
follow : — 

Over the mantle-piece — A Boy with a Racket 
and Ball — by Paul Veronese — the great master of what 
is called the ornamental style. — His real name was Paolo 
Cagliari ; he was born at Verona, and died 1588. 

On the left side of the mantle-piece — Barb art 
Villiers, Dutchess of Cleveland.— She was the daugh- 
ter and heiress of William Lord Grandison, and wife 
of Kqger Palmer, afterwards Earl of Castlemaine. 
Though proud, she stooped to the lowest amours : but 
at last became one of the numerous Mistresses of 
Charles II. and, when discarded by him, was created 
Dutchess of Cleveland. She, then, married the celebrat- 
ed Beau Fielding ; by whom she was cruelly treated ; 
and from whom she at length obtained a divorce, on 
proving against him a charge of bigamy. She died 17<>9- 

On the left side of the mantle-piece — Sketch of 
the four Evangelists — by Rubens — highly valuable. 

Same side — Landscape — by Salvator Rosa — rock, 
stunted trees, and awful desolation. 

On the right side of the mantle-piece — Portrait 
of A Lady. 



OF THE CASTLE. 197 

Portrait of the Earl and of the Duke of Bedford — A Storm and Wreck. 

On the same side — William Russell, First 
Duke of Bedford — He was the father of the patriotic 
Lord William Russell, who was so wickedly beheaded 
in the reign of Charles II. During the civil war ? he 
was a General of Horse on the side of the Parliament. 
He afterwards sincerely concurred in the restoration of 
Charles II.; and, finally, hailed with joy the glorious 
revolution of \66s. From the rank of Earl, he was ad- 
vanced to that of Duke, by William III. and, in the 
preamble to the patent, the virtues of his illustrious son, 
are expressly stated, as the reasons, which induced the 
monarch to confer upon the father, that high distinction. 
He died 1700. 

On the same side — Francis, Second Earl of 
Bedford — by Vandych — He was the Father of the first 
Duke : and, like the rest of his illustrious family, in all 
times, nobly supported the glorious cause of freedom, and 
of his country, during the trying and critical times of 
Charles I. He died 1641. 

On the same side — centre — A Storm and Wreck 
— by William Vandervelde, the younger — superlatively ex- 
cellent — a favorite picture of Sir Joshua Reynolds. — 
In the beauty of his design, the correctness of his 
drawing, the graceful forms and positions of his vessels, 
the lightness of his clouds, the clearness and variety of 
his serene skies, as well as the gloomy horror of those 
that are stormy, the liveliness and transparency of his 
colouring, the look of genuine nature that appears >th 
in his agitated and his still waters, and the exqui e 
gradations, as well as perspective truth of his, distances — :i 
all these respects, the productions of this unrivalled arti&t 



198 STATE ROOMS 

■ ' ' ' "" ' ^"' "■•"'- " " ' *— — *— ■' ',' 1, - 

I J ortrait of Luther — Landscape — -Boy — Henry IV. 

display, in their highest degrees, taste, judgment, and 
genius. What Raphael is in Historical painting, Van- 
dervelde is in Sea Pieces. 

On the same side — Martin Luther — a fine half- 
length — by Holbein, — Erasmus said of this intrepid re- 
former, whose temper was vehement and impetuous, even 
to excess — " God has bestowed upon mankind, so violent 
" a physician, in consequence of the magnitude of their dis- 
<c eases." And he said of himself " my rind is indeed 
" very hard, but my core is soft and delicate ; for indeed 
" I wish ill to no one ,** — " The ardent spirit of Luther,** 
says one of his Biographers " shone out in his eyes, which 
u were so sparkling, that no one could bear to look at 
€C them. And it is recorded, that an assassin, w T ho had 
gained admittance into his chamber, was so terrified by 
the lightning of his eye, and the stern dignity of his man- 
ner, that he w r as compelled to desist from his horrid 
purpose. Notwithstanding the number, and power, and 
malignity of his foes, Luther died quietly in his bed, 
at Eisleben, Feb. l6 5 1546. 

On the same side — Landscape with figures — by 
Salvator Rosa. — companion to one before mentioned — in 
his usual style of " savage grandeur, and sublime repose." 

On the same side — Boy in armour. 

South window — left side — Portrait of one of 
Charles* Beauties. 

On the same side — Henry IV. — by Patoun — a 
small and beautiful whole length — in a plain black dress, 



OF THE CASTLE. 199 



A Sorceress — and Comnanion — a Girl. 



of that truly illustrious monarch of France, whose extraor- 
dinary virtues and talents gave him a just claim, in a cer- 
tain degree, to the title qffireat, and in a still higher, degree, 
to that of Good. Voltaire calls him — " His subjects Con- 
queror, and their father too."* His reign, as describe - 1 by 
the Abbe de Moralles, was the reign, as of a beneficent 
deity, watching with guardian care, over the happiness of 
a nation ; and the close of it was, says he, i( the end of a 
great many blessings, and the beginning of a great many 
miseries to his country and to mankind." By the inscru- 
table decrees of Providence, the dagger of a mad enthu- 
siast, was permitted to rob his age of its glory, and his 
people of their public father, May 14, l6l0. 

South window — left side — A Sorceress — by Te- 
nsers tfie younger. — He was a painter of extraordinary ge- 
nius. His pencil is free and delicate ; the touching of his 
trees is light and firm; his skies are admirable; and, though 
not much varied, are clear and brilliant ; and the expres- 
sion of his figures, whether mirthful or grave, in angry or 
pleasant mood, are always strongly marked, and strikingly 
natural. He had the peculiar art of relieving his lights, 
by other lights, without employing deep shadows, and vet 
producing the intended effect in a surprising manner. 

South window, right side —Portrait of— A Girl, 
said to be one of Lord Robert Brookes children. 

Same side — Triton and Sea Horses — a study 

by Vandych. 

Same side — Companion to the Sorceress — by 
Tenters — the second of the three paintings, by the same 

* £< ful tie $<•£ sujcts le vainqucur t\ !« pe.e. Ilenriade C. 1 jL 6. 

I 



20O STATE ROOMS 



Mrs. Digby — two Heads — a Sebastian — Interior of a Church. 

eminent master, in this room — of whose excellence, in the 
general estimation, the incredible prices given for his 
works, in all parts of Europe, afford incontestible evidence. 

West window — left side — Mrs. Digby, in the 
dress of a Lady Abbess — held in high estimation — by 
Gerhard Donw — a native of Leyden* — and, in his finish- 
ing, the most extraordinary of all the Flemish masters. — 
His pictures usually are of small size, with figures so exqui- 
sitely touched, so transparent, so wonderfully delicate, as to 
excite astonishment, no less than pleasure. He designed 
every object after nature ; and, in colour, freshness, and 
force, each object appears as perfect as Nature herself. — 
In painting portraits, he made use of concave mirrors. He 
bestowed upon all his works most patient and persevering 
labour ; and yet there is in them, no appearance of stiffness 
no diminution of vigour. 

West window, left side — Two heads of old 
men studying music — a sketch by Rubens — amazingly 
fine. 

Same side— A Sebastian— a sketch— £y Vandyck. 

West window, right side — Portrait of one of 
Charles* Beauties. 

Same side— Bacchanalian Boys.— After Van- 
dyck. 

Same side — View of the interior of a Church 
— by De Witte— light shining upon the pillars ex- 
tremely well managed. 

Opposite the south window — centre piece— A 
Guard Room, with Armour— by Teniers.— This is the 



OF THE CASTLE. 201 

Portrait of a Boy — of Anne Boleyn. 

third of the invaluable productions of this great artist — 
whose usual subjects, besides such as the present, were 
landscapes with figures, merry-makings, fairs, shooting at 
butts, playing at bowls, and the sports or occupations of 
villagers. This is highly esteemed. 

Opposite the south window — above, centre — Por- 
trait of A Boy — by Vandych. 

Same side — above, left — Anne Boleyn* — small 
half length — by Holbein. — "This beautiful Queen," 
says Granger, " fell a sacrifice to the violent passions of 
Henry VIII. — to his anger, for bringing him a dead son 
— to his jealousy, for the innocent but indiscreet peculia- 
rities of her behaviour — and, above all, to his affection for 
Jane Seymour, whom he married the very day after she 
was beheaded, May 19, 1536." This is a fine portrait ; 
though some§ have considered the countenance as deficient 
in those iC sweet eye-glaunces" and that " lovely pleasance, 
which robs sence from the hart."~f~ Nothing, however, 
could be more unfavourable to the representation of beauty, 
than the dress of those times, particularly the angular coif- 
fure, and the scrupulous concealment of the hair. 



* The following description of this Queen, given by Lord Herbert, in his admirable 
history of Henry VIII. is taken from a curious life of Cardinal Wolsey^by Sib Wiiuam 
Cavendish, his gentleman usher, first published in 1641, and again in 1761. « She v*s 
of singular beautie and towardnesse, and her parents took all care possible for her good 
education. Therefore, besides the ordinary parts of virtuous instructions, they gave her 
teachers in playing on musical instruments, singing and dancing, insomuch, that when she 
composed her hands to play, and voice to sing, it was joined with that sweetness of coun- 
tenance, that three harmonies concurred. *' Likewise when she danced, her rare proportions 
varied 1 themselves into all the graces, that belong either to rest or motion." 

« lTsHoffty's Anecdotes, + Spenser. 

c c 



202 STATE ROOMS 



Portrait of Catherine Boleyn — An Old Woman— Peter in Prison. 

Same side — above— right — Catherine Boleyn — 
by Holbein — She was Aunt and Governess to the Princess, 
afterwards Queen Elizabeth, — This is a beautiful small 
half-length — Here at least, is loveliness, of the most attrac- 
tive kind — animation, simplicity, softness, and sweetness. 
This is the third of the portraits in this room by Hans 
Holbein, who was born at Basle, in 1498, and died in 1554. 
He painted equally well in oil, water colours and distemper; 
in large and in miniature. He generally chose for his paint- 
ings a green ground ; but in his small pictures, the ground 
is frequently blue. His pencil is exceedingly delicate; his 
colouring has a wonderful degree of force ; his carnations 
are highly exquisite ; and all his pictures are distinguished 
by the amazing neatness and exactness of his finishing — 
But, with all his abundance of merit, something of the 
German taste prevails in most of his works. " He was 
true," says Gilpin, u to * the lines of nature, in whatever 
form he found them : though he would neither give his 
figures that grace and dignity ; nor draw from his pallet 
that glow of colouring, which we admire so much in 
Titian.'* 

On the same side of the room — below, centre— 
An old woman eating pottage — lamp light — excellent— 
by Gerhard Douw. 

Same side — below — left— Peter in prison — by 
Henry Steenwych, the younger. 

Same side— below— -right— -Peter delivered 
from prison — companion to the former — by Steenwyck. 
This artist, who excelled in painting architecture and per- 



* Dialogues page 389. 



OF THE CASTLE. 203 

Peter delivered. 

spective, was introduced to the Court of Charges I. by 
Vandych, and received all the encouragement due to his 
great merits. His usual subjects were the inside of 
Churches and Gothic edifices ; every column and cornice 
of which he painted with the utmost precision ; and dis- 
tributed his lights and shades with such judgment, as to 
produce astonishing effect. His portrait is drawn by 
Vandych, and placed amongst the distinguished artists of 
his time.* 




* In sketching ilie short notices of the different Painters, whose names are introduced 
to. the preceding pages, Pilkingten's Dictionary has been chiefly consulted. 

C C 2 



204 SMALLER APARTMENTS 



Compass Window — View of the Interior of a Church, SfC. 



CHAP. XXII. 



^matter 3CpartiMitt$s df tfie €&0t\t, §c. 

Compass Window — Inside of a Church, ^c. — Ganymede, §c. — Armoury Pas- 
sage — Curious Petrifactions, $c. — British Armoury — Doublet of Lord 
Brooke, fyc. — Chapel Passage — Portrait of Cromwell — of Shakespeare — 
Brandt, SfC. — The Chapel. 



jl 1 ROM the Gilt Room, a door opens into a small 
apartment, called the 

COMPASS WINDOW. 

This Window is filled with painted glass, some part 
of which is supposed to have been the work of Rubens. 
It was brought from Flanders, purchased by the present 
Earl of Warwick ; and put together by Mr. A. Pether. 

The paintings here, are — Ganymede — better 
known under the name of Hebe, Goddess of Health — 
by Guerchino — -an Italian painter of eminence. He died 
1666. — Inside of a Church— a fine transparency — by 
Jervais, who excelled in subjects of this kind — though 
deemed an artist of no great merit in other respects, not- 
withstanding the fine praises, with which he is so lavishly 
decked out in the complimentary verses of Pope. 

A Battle Piece, by Schut. — A Sea Fight, by 
Vandervelde, — Head of an Old Man, by Rubens. — Still 
Life, by Kalf.—FnviT, by Campedoglio.— Portrait of 
a Female, by Pourbus. 



OF THE CASTLE. 205 

■ J ' - '■ ■ '" '" ' " ' '» ! 

Armoury Passage — Armour of ' CromwelU <$'C. 

In a short passage, to the right of the Compass 
Window, are the three following paintings : — 

Portrait of an Italian — supposed to be by Titian. 
— Portrait of a Laughing Boy — capital — said to be 
KilHgreiu, the famous Jester at the Court of Charles II. — 
A Storm at Sea — by Ludolph Bachhuysin, a native of 
Embden. — No artist ever studied nature, in all her forms, 
more attentively — in gales, calms, storms, clouds, rocks, 
skies, lights, and shadows ; and, in all his paintings, he 
displays the genius of a master. 

armoury passage. 

This apartment might well deserve the more ex- 
pressive name of The Museum, It contains a collection 
of curiosities ; many of rare occurrence, and of inestima- 
ble value ; and, in the whole, so numerous, that their 
names alone would form a long catalogue. 

Suspended round the wall, and disposed in pleas- 
ing arrangement, are specimens of armour, ancient and 
modern, collected from all quarters of the globe — among 
which are — culivers, ancient cross bows, battle axes, 
pikes, Roman swords, arquebuses, ancient daggers, muskets, 
helmets and chain armour, quivers, arrows, tomahawks, 
Persian bows of steel : and, over the door, is the armour 
of Oliver Cromwell, — Besides this rare and various 
collection of armour, there are here to be seen, in the Jlrst 
window, a large tooth of an animal unknown ; part of the 
trunk of a tree petrified — and various other curious petri- 
factions. — Before the second window, on a slab, formed of 
petrified shells, and surrounded with a statuary border, are 
placed the figure of an Infant Christ, with the cross, in 



206 SMALLER APARTMENTS 

British Armoury — Chapel Passage. 

bronze, small ; and a large Bust of Demosthenes, in 
bronze. In this window are, also to be seen—- two Eques- 
trian figures of Roman Emperors on Horseback, on 
copper enamel — two bronze has reliefs of Roman Em- 
perors, two bronze sphinx, and various petrifactions.-?-In 
the third window, are a piece of the rock of Gibraltar, and 
various petrifactions. — In the fourth window, are — a lock 
of a Convent, of wonderful intricacy, and exquisite works 
manship — a small hand-bell, of which the handle is formed 
of four figures, united, with an inscription round it, bearing 
date 1547; — the figure of a gladiator in bronze; — -and 
two figures of boxers, also in bronze. 

BRITISH ARMOURY. 

Passing through a door, beyond the fourth win- 
dow, is the entrance into the British Armoury ; which 
contains the best collection of old English armour, in the 
kingdom. Among many other articles are— a very fine 
and complete suit of fluted armour,* brought from Ger- 
many—the armour of the Duke of Monmouth § — the 
doublet in which Lord Brooke was killed at Lichfield, 
when reconnoitering, by a man known by the name of 
Dumb Dyott—tmd an arquebuse of enormous size, taken 
from a French ship of war. 

chapel passage. 

Returning through the Armoury Passage, beyond 
the Compass Window, is a door leading into the Chapel 
Passage. — Here, besides the large picture of Charles I. on 
horseback, before noticed % are the following portraits. 



* Two Views of this are given in Grose's Antlent Armoury, page 43, 44. 
§ Of this also are two Views, Ibid, page 45, 46. t P«gfc *63» 



OF THE CASTLE. 207 



Portrait of Oliver Cromwell — of Shakespeare — of a Mohawk Chief. 



On the same side as the window — Oliver Crom- 
well — in armour — by Robert Walker* — whom the Pro- 
tector himself preferred io every other painter — and by 
whom his portrait was certainly drawn several times. — It 
is well known that the Grand Duke of Tuscany gave 
^500, to a relation of Cromwell's, for one of his pictures 
by Walker. This is now in the gallery of the Old Palace 
at Florence — where there is also a celebrated cast of his 
face, of which, Lord Cork, who had seen it, remarks, that 
w it bears the strongest characteristics of boldness, steadi- 
ness, sense, penetration and pride." — u - Cromwell has al- 
ways been regarded by foreigners," says Granger, " and 
" of late years, by the generality of his countrymen, as>tbe 
" greatest man this nation ever produced. Yet it has 
" been "disputed whether he deserved more a halter or a 
'- crown ? and there is no less disparity between the cha- 
" racter drawn of him by his friends and his enemies.— 
iC Colonel Lindsay affirmed that he saw him enter into a 
" formal contract with the devil ; and Dawbeny has 
" drawn a parallel betwixt Moses the Man of God, and 
" Oliver, the Protector. He died in his bed, on the 3d of 
u September, a day which he had long esteemed fortunate, 
" in the year 1608." 



Portrait of Shakespeare — in a sitting posture- 
composing. 

Portrait of Brandt, the Mohawk Chief — by 
Romr.ey — in the best style of that master — " whose paint- 



* A duplicate of tl<is picture is in the possession of a brother of the wriisr of these 
paces, whose mothei's grandfather, Major Cromwell, was second sun of HsnRV C'KOMWfitX, 
the LW Lieutenant »f Inland, and was born in Dublin Castle, al the lb"* " ( hh l;<;tie> ,; 
residence iu thai country. 



sos STATE ROOMS 



Portrait of Huberts' second Wife — of a General by Rubens — of Locke. 

<! ings are conceived/* says Flaxman, u in an elevated 
rfC spirit of dignity and beauty, with a lively expression of 
i£ nature in all its parts. His heads were various ; his 
" male was decided and grand ; his females, lovely ; his 
" figures resemble the antique ; the limbs were elegant, and 
" finely formed ; and his draperies were w T ell understood ; 
u and constituted, indeed, one of his chief excellencies." 

Side opposite the Window — Head — in the man- 
ner of Rubens* 

Rubens' second Wife — by himself. — This is the 
lady so celebrated for her exquisite beauty ; the contem- 
plation of which is said to have been of important use to 
the great painter, in delineating the figures of his females. 

Portrait of a Bishop. 

Portrait of a Lady — by Vandyck. 

Portrait of a General — by Rubens. 

Portrait of Thomas Thynne, Esa. noted for his 
affluence and his uncommon benevolence, whence he gained 
the name of " Tom of Ten Thousand." He was murdered 
in his coach, soon after his marriage to Lady Eliz. Piercy, 
by three assassins, supposed to be hired by Count Konings- 
marh, who had made some advances to the same Lady. 

Portrait of Locke — u who was in metaphysics 
what Newton was in the higher mathematics — and as the 
one led mankind to the knowledge of the material w^orld, 
by w 7 hich they are surrounded ; so the other conducted 
them to the knowledge of the ideal world within themselves 



OF THE CASTLE. 209 

The Chapel. 
THE CHAPEL. 

Through the long passage, just mentioned, is 
the approach, — by which strangers are usually conducted 
to the Chapel. From this, a small door leads into the 
interior. But the principal entrance is opposite to this ; 
where, folding doors open into a vestibule — with which a 
flight of stone steps communicate, from the inner court of 
the Castle. 

The Chapel is of suitable size, well proportioned, 
and fitted up in a style of simple elegance. In the 
outer division, are the seats for the servants ; and in 
the inner, those for the family. The lofty ceiling is finely 
formed with small pendant capitals, and adorned with the 
arms of the family. The altar-piece is of oak, carved and 
surmounted with a canopy, extending from it over the two 
adjoining seats. Opposite, in a gallery, is placed the or- 
gan. The Gothic windows are filled with painted glass ; 
of which that over the altar is the gift of the Earl of Es- 
sex. The light admitted is exactly of that kind, which the 
great poet of England so happily terms " dim religious 
light ;" and, through the whole interior of this beautiful 
oratory, an air of soft and composed solemnity prevails— 
usually considered as so highly favourable to the exercises, 
and to all the serious sentiments, of devotion. 



D D 



210 PRIVATE APARTMENTS 



Private Apartments* 

■" sag 



CHAP. XXII. 



=* 



^riimte apartments of tf>e Cattle. 

(not open to public inspection.) 

Breakfast Room.— Family of Charles I. — Portraits of a Warrior- — Wife of 
Snyder — Two Lions, by Rubens — Portrait of Spinola—Condomar — Cap- 
tain of the Dutch Guards. — Waiting Room. — Portrait of Old Parr — 
Second Lord Brooke. — Little Study. — Portrait of Henrietta Maria.—- 
Library. — Portrait of a School Boy. — Red Bedchamber. — Duke of 
Buckingham and his Brother — Prince Rupert and Maurice — Fruit, by M. 
Angelo — A Nun. — Red Dressing Room. — View of the Interior of a 
Church — Venice — A Sea Piece. — Passage — A Landscape— A Study — A 
Sea Fight — Charles I. — Skakespea?^e. — Henry V1I1. — Queen Elizabeth— 
Mary Queen of Scots — Sir Philip Sidney. — Domestic Offices, &C. 



J_^EAVING the State Rooms of the Castle, and en- 
tering the Private Apartments, the air of grandeur, which 
strikes so much in the former, is at once exchanged for 
that of domestic convenience and comfort, which mark 
the whole appearance of the latter — exciting in the mind, 
instead of ideas of pomp and splendour, of crouded courts 
and brilliant assemblies, the more pleasing thoughts of quiet 
enjoyment, and the delights of family or friendly inter- 
course. These latter apartments, however, in the absence 
of every other beauty or ornament, would still be con- 
sidered as highly embellished, by the m any Jine paintings 
which adorn them ; of which we are permitted to give 
some account — though we must again repeat, to prevent 
all danger of disappointment, they are not exhibited to 
the view of the public. 



OF THE CASTLE. 211 

Breakfast Room — Family of Charles I. — Fo? trait of a Warrior. 

-1 ■ 111 1 [•— i"i n SB — i — mmmSZSZSmmm i~f " ■ 1 1" 



BREAKFAST ROOM. 

This is a good family room, delightfully pleasant, 
as, indeed, are all the rooms, looking to the south, from 
the beautiful and extensive prospect, which the windows 
afford. 

Here is to be seen a slab, one of the largest 
and finest of the kind known, formed of pietra dura, 
next in hardness, and also in value, to the precious 
stones. The pedestal is of the same material as the 
slab ; and, the Avhole must have been a work of im- 
mense labor. This table was once in the possession 
of the King of Naples, who gave for it 3,000 sequins, 
or about ^1,500. — In this apartment are the following 
paintings : — 

Over the mantle-piece — The Family of Charles 
I. — by Vandych. — The portraits are whole-lengths, taken 
in their infancy, of Charles II., of James II., and of 
Mary, Princess of Orange. 

Right side of the mantle-piece, — Portrait of a 
Warrior, — by Rembrandt. — This admirable picture, once 
in the possession of Sir Joshua Reynolds, is generally 
supposed to represent Achilles ; but the armour is mo- 
dern. — Rembrandt, one of the most famous masters of 
the Dutch School, formed a manner entirely his own, by 
studying and imitating nature, which he copied in its 
most simple dress ; but, in the selection of objects^ he 
shewed that he had little notion of grace or elegance. His 
invention, however, was. fertile ; his imagination lively 
and active ; and his colouring most surprising. His car- 
nations are as true, as fresh, and as perfect as those of 
Titian : but there is this difference, that the colouring 

DD2 



212 PRIVATE APARTMENTS 

Portrait of Snyder s Wife — Two Lions, by Rubens. 

of Titian will admit of near inspection, whilst that of 
Rembrandt must be viewed at a convenient distance. 
His portraits are excellent ; but from the subjects he 
usually painted, though they are exact likenesses, and 
have the true look of life, yet, in the air and attitude, 
grace and dignity are wanting. He died 1764. 

Left side of the mantle-piece, — The Wife of 
Snyder, — by Vandych. — This is a fine picture, in the 
best style of that great master. Snyder was a distin- 
guished painter of the Flemish School ; and was held in 
such high estimation by Rubens, and by Jordaens, that 
they often borrowed his assistance in some of their great- 
est works ; and as often afforded their's in return, to him. 
The joint productions of three such celebrated painters 
are considered, by some, as more estimable, on that very 
account, than even their separate works. 

Opposite the fire-place, — centre-piece, — Two 
Lions, — by Rubens, — painted from the life, and said to be 
the only ones he ever saw alive. — When the great painter 
had proceeded some way, in portraying these noble ani- 
mals, it is said, he wished to mark their appearance in 
the act of roaring ; and, for that purpose, the keeper ven- 
tured to pluck one of them by the whiskers. The attempt 
succeeded for several days ; but, on the fifth day, Rubens 
observed such signs of anger as created serious alarm, and 
induced him to advise the keeper to desist from the dan- 
gerous attempt in future. The hint was observed for 
a time, but was afterwards forgotten; and the dread- 
ful consequence was, the enraged animal struck down the 
keeper, and lay upon him, the whole day. In the evening, 
the lion was ordered to be shot, by a party of the Guards, 



OF THE CASTLE. 213 



Portrait of Spinola, by Rubens. 



under the command of an ancestor of Mr. De Corte, a 
painter of eminence, lately deceased, on whose authority, 
this story is told. The lion was killed ; but, in the agonies 
of his death, horrid to relate ! the wretched keeper was 
torn to pieces. — This noble production of one of the 
greatest of painters, who excelled pre-eminently in the 
delineation of beasts, especially those of the savage kind, 
was once in the possession of Prince Charles, of Lorraine. 

Opposite the fire-place — left side — Marqjjis of 
Spinola — by Rubens. — Spinola is here drawn in armour ; 
round his left arm is a sash ; his sword-basket is hiked; and 
in his left hand is a truncheon. He was of an illustrious 
family, in Genoa, and one of the great military heroes of 
his age. Till his 30th year, he lived in the tranquil en- 
joyment of private life. But though he entered thus late 
into the army, yet he soon rose to high reputation ; and 
was, in l604, appointed commander-in-chief of the Spanish 
army, in the Low Country. Here he was opposed to 
Prince Maurice, of Nassau, the first general of his time; 
against whom, it is high praise to say, that he contended 
with glory and success.* But afterwards, commanding in 
Italy, at the siege of Casal, though he had actually taken 
the town ; and had closely invested the citadel ; yet his 
plans were suddenly interrupted, and finally defeated, by 
new and absurd orders from Spain. Vexation arising from 
unexpected defeat, and from most unmerited disgrace, 
preyed upon his spirits ; and laid the foundation of a 
disease, which quickly ended in his death, 1630. His last 
words were, "they have robbed me of my glory ! " 



* " Le Comte Maurice de Nassau, le lieros de son siecle," says iJie Frencii Biogra- 
pher, " fat rhorume, contre lequel il eut a combaiue ; et il se montra ausai bon caphaine 
^ue !ui." 



214 PRIVATE APARTMENTS 



Portrait of Gondomar and of a Dutch Captain. 

' .-,,,■ , .,- 

Opposite the fire-place-— right side — Count Gon- 
domar — by Valasquez de Silva.— Gondomar, Ambassador 
from Spain, to James I. was one of the most perfect adepts 
ever known, in the art of duping and deceiving. His great 
instrument to move all to his purpose, was, " to please all ;" 
and never was an instrument wielded by the hand of man, 
with greater dexterity and success. He had his lures pre- 
pared for ail — fawning for the great — flattery for the vain 
— pleasure for the voluptuous — money for the avaricious- 
affected love of learning for the scholar — and most humble 
and assiduous courtship for the ladies, whose influence, 
even in state affairs, he knew, must not he overlooked. 
No trick so low or little, to which he did not descend, in 
order to entrap the smiles of others, and cheat them of 
themselves. Thus, amongst other means of conciliating 
or cozening James I. — " to whom," says Rushworth,* 
"he had access more like an English favorite, than a 
" Foreign Ambassador," one was, to talk bad Latin before 
him, in order to. give that egregious pedant, the proud 
gratification of correcting it. — (C Never was there a man," 
says Grainger, " who had so much art, with so little ap- 
pearance of it."— This is the only painting to be found 
in this collection, by the great Spanish Master, Velasq,uez, 
—whose compositions are remarkable for strength of ex- 
pression, for a freedom of pencil, a spirited touch, and 
such a tone of colour, as almost equals nature. 

Opposite the window — Captain of the Dutch 
Guard — by Rembrandt. — This is considered as one of the 
finest pictures now known, of that great master— whose 
genuine works are extremely rare ; and, when they are to 
be purchased, obtain almost incredible price. . 



* Historical Collections, v. I. p. 14. 



OF THE CASTLE. 215 

Waiting Room — Old Parr — Lord Brooke. 
WAITING ROOM. 

From the Breakfast Parlour, a door opens into a 
small apartment, called the Waiting Roo?n } in which are 
two portraits ; the first is — 

Old Parr — by Van&yck. — He was a peasant of 
Shropshire, born 1483, and died at the most extraordinary 
age of 152. In his 120th year, he married a second wife., 
and had a child. In the summer of 1635, he was carried 
by the Earl of Arundel, to London, and introduced as a 
prodigy, to Charles I. Among other questions, the 
King asked him, " since he had lived so much longer 
than other men, what he had done more than other 
men ?" — " I did penance," replied the hardy veteran, 
" when I was a hundred years old." * Change of air, and 
new modes of living, the consequence of his removal to 
London, occasioned his death, Nov. 5, in the same year. 
He was buried in Westminster Abbey. He was blind 
for the last 19 years of his life. He is drawn three quar- 
ters length, in a doublet, with a girdle, in which is his left 
hand, and his right rests on a stick. The picture is of 
inferior execution, though painted by so great an artist as 
Vandyck, for so great a personage as the King of 
England. — The other portrait is 

Robert, the second Lord Brooke — Some ac- 
count has already been given of this high-spirited and 
accomplished Nobleman, who fell at the siege of Lich- 
Jleld ; § and who, in taking the side of the Parliament, 
against the misjudging Monarch, by the confession of his 
very enemies, acted from motives of purest patriotism. 

* Peck's Historical Pieces, p. 51 • $ P. 40. 



216 PRIVATE APARTMENTS 

Little Study — Library — Red Bedchamber. 

He is drawn, wearing a breast-plate ; and under it, appears 
the doublet, in whicb be was killed, and which may be 
seen, stained with blood, amongst the collection in the 
old British Armoury.* 

LITTLE STUDY. 

In this room is a portrait of Henrietta Maria—' 
wife of Charles I.— whole length — by Vandyck* 

LIBRARY. 

This is a spacious and handsome apartment. It 
contains about three thousand three hundred volumes ; and, 
if they are not to be characterized as a rare or invaluable, 
they form, at least, a useful collection of books. 

Over the fire-place — A School Boy-— by Sir 
Joshua Reynolds — -of whom it is said, that " to the gran- 
" deur, truth, and simplicity of Titian, and to the daring 
" strength of Rembrandt, he has united the chastness 
" and delicacy of Vandyck." 

RED BEDCHAMBER. 

In this room, which is nearly opposite the Library^ 

are the following paintings. 

Over the fire-place— George, Duke of Bucking- 
ham, and his brother Francis — whole lengths — by 
Vandyck— These two young nobles, who are here por- 
trayed in their infancy, fell a sacrifice to their precipitate 
zeal in the cause of Charles I. At the head of a small 



* P. 205. 



OF THE CASTLE. 217 



Portrait of Princes Rupert und Alain ice — Fruit, bi/ til. Angelo 



body of troops, they were defeated, near Klngston-upon- 
Thames ; the elder was slain in battle ; the younger, dis- 
dainfully refusing quarter, was cruelly butchered. 

Opposite the window — Prince Rupert, and his 
brother Maurice — by Vandyck. — These two princes, 
here drawn in the same picture, sons of the King of Bo- 
hemia, entered into the service of their uncle Charles L 
when he raised his standard at Nottingham : and greatly 
signalized themselves, on many occasions, during the un- 
fortunate contest that followed. The former had more 
fire and activity, more daring and precipitate valour : the 
latter was equally brave, but more cool and steady. 

Opposite the window — Fruit — exquisitely done — 
by Michael Angelo Buonarottl — the only specimen in 
this collection of the wonderful powers of " that truly 
divine artist," as Sir Joshua Reynolds, in his discourses 
to the students of the Royal Academy, scruples not to 
call him — " in whose steps, above all others," he declares, 
" he was ambitious to tread, however unequally — and 
" whose name he desired to be the last words, pronounced 
" by himself in that Academy." And as he desired, so 
it was : for, unfortunately for the lovers of the fine arts, 
this was the last speech he delivered as President of the 
Royal Academy. — Michael Angelo was highly distin- 
guished as a sculptor, as well as a painter ; and it is diffi- 
cult to decide in which he most excelled. It is certain, 
however, that sculpture was his primary pursuit : and yet, 
if the question were, which of the sister arts would most 
suffer, by being deprived of his powers, the answer, says 
his biographer, would undoubtedly be, painting. In 
sculpture we possess the reliques of the antique"; works 

E E 



218 PRIVATE APARTMENTS 

Portrait of a Nun — View of the Interior of a Church — View of Venice. 

which more than rival his. But what is there in painting 
that could compensate for the loss of the Sistine Chapel? 
—The greatest works of this extraordinary genius are 
" The Crucifixion" and " The Last Judgment''' He was 
born in Tuscany, 1474, and died at Rome, 1563. 

Opposite the fire-place — Portrait of a Nun — by 
Paul Veronese. — This celebrated artist is accused of paint- 
ing too much with a view to please the debauched eye of 
the Venetians, his countrymen ; and of sacrificing to that 
consideration, force of expression, correctness of drawing, 
and all propriety in the costume of his figures, and the 
architectural, and other ornaments of his pictures. But, 
in excellence of colouring, in the magic effect of light and 
shade, and in grace and harmony of composition, he has 
attained the highest distinction. 

RED DRESSING ROOM. 

Three large paintings adorn this small apartment. 

Over the fire-place — View of the Interior of 
a Church — by A. de Forme — of which the perspective is 
good, and the light, which is that of wax tapers, is ex- 
cellently managed. 

Opposite the fire-place — A View of Venice, with 
a Procession— by Canaletto — who was originally a 
scene painter, at Venice, his native city; but afterwards 
studied with great success at Rome. He made use of the 
Camera Obscura to obtain precision, and afterwards cor- 
rected its defects by the air tints. He produced great 
effects : and impressed a character of vigour on every 
object, he touched. Canaletto once resided at the 



OF THE CASTLE. 219 

Sea Piece, by W. Vandervelde — Landscape, by Salvaior Rosa — Sea Fig/it. 

Castle, under the patronage of the late Earl of Warwick, 
who, amongst other works, employed him in painting 
views of the Castle. Of these, four large pictures were 
highly finished by him, and were afterwards removed to 
London, to adorn the town residence of the Earls of 
Warwick. 

Opposite the window — A Sea Piece — by that 
unrivalled master in this branch of the art, William Kan- 
dervelde, the younger. His father obtained high degrees 
of excellence, in the same department of painting, but 
was greatly surpassed by the son ; to whom, indeed, no 
painter in this style, of any age or country, since the 
revival of letters, can be regarded as superior, or even as 
equal. 

PASSAGE. 

In the passage leading to the apartments ju9t 
enumerated, are several valuable paintings. 

On the stair-case — A Landscape — rock, cataracts, 
and trees — in fine style — by Salvator Rosa. 

Near the Dressing Room door — A Study — by 
the same great artist. — It is the representation of a natu- 
ralist musing, with all the objects of his contemplation 
scattered about. 

Near the window — A Sea Fight, between the 
Russians and the Turks — moonlight — by Loutherbourg. 

On the stair-case — Charles I. sitting on a bay 

Horse. 

EE2 



220 PRIVATE APARTMENTS 

I ■ - H_ ' ' „ ■'■■'■- ■■■ ■■ 

Portraits of Shnkespear — Henri/ VIII. — Queen Klizaheih. 

Portrait of Shakespear — by Cornelius Jansens— 
The great poetical genius — the pride of Warwickshire— 
and the glory of his country, " who first exhausted worlds, 
and then imagined new" — is here drawn in a sitting pos- 
ture, composing; the light finely breaking in from the 
windows. 

Henry VIII. — by Holbein* — "This despotic mo- 
narch," says Grainger, in his admirable sketch of his 
character, "held the nation in greater subjection than any 
of its conquerors. He was more governed by vanity and 
caprice, than principle ; and paid no regard to mercy, nor 
even to justice, when it stood in the way of his passions. 
But, though a tyrant, by depressing the nobility, and in- 
creasing the property of the commons, he laid the foun- 
dation of civil liberty ; and, though a bigot to almost every 
error of the Romish Church, he was the father of the 
Reformation." — What a detestable idea of him is held 
forth by his own words, when, according to Sir Robert 
Naunton, he once said of himself, " he never spared man 
in his anger, nor woman in his lust !"§ 

Queen Elizabeth — dressed in stiff golden robes ; 
on her head, the crown, and in her hand, the globe 
and sceptre — by Holbein. — "So happily tempered" says 
Grainger, " was affability with haughtiness, and benevo- 
lence with severity, in the character of this Princess, that 
she was more loved than feared by the people ; and was 



* It is remarkable that Holbein always painted with his left hand. The same 
singular habit is related of Turpilius, a Roman Artist, as also of Mozzo, of Antwerp, 
of Amico AspERxiNo.and Ludovico Cangiagio. 

§ Fiagmenta Regalia, published in the PKocnis. ?. I. p. 183. 



OF THE CASTLE. 221 

■ ' a 

Tort rails of Mary Queni of Scots — Sir Philip Sidney. 

at the same time, the delight of her subjects, and the ter- 
ror of Europe" 

Mary Queen of Scots, and James her Son — 
by Holbein. — The infant here drawn, is of the age of 
three or four ; but it is well known that the Queen never 
saw her son, after he was a year old ; one of the portraits, 
therefore, cannot be original. There is another copy of 
the same picture in the Draper s Hall, London. — Though 
virtuously disposed, this unhappy Princess has never been 
wholly cleared from the guilt of the crimes laid to her 
charge. But such were the graces of her person and 
manners, that every one who saw and conversed with 
her, was inclined to believe her innocent, at least to 
wish her so : and all concurred in pitying the severity 
of her fate. — She was beheaded in the hall of Fother- 
inghay Castle, February 8, 1586: and her behaviour, at 
that awful crisis, was, in a supreme degree, calm, mag- 
nanimous, and pathetic. 

Sir Philip Sidney — in a striped habit. — This is 
with reason, believed to be an original of that highly and 
deservedly celebrated man, as it belonged to his fond and 
faithful friend, Fulke Lord Brooke. — Sir Philip Sidney 
was the son of Sir Henry Sidney, Lord Deputy of 
Ireland, himself a man of pure and exalted character,* 
and of Mary, the truly amiable and accomplished daugh- 
ter of John Dudley, the famous Duke of Northumber- 
land. Gifted, by nature, with some of the best, and 
noblest qualities of the mind and the heart ; he received, 



This great man,'' savs GbainO£B| " deserves la be much belter known. 1 * 



222 PRIVATE APARTMENTS 

UMM-*mm «... I i ■■ ' L 

Biographical Sketch of Sir Philip Sidney. 

from the cares of wise and affectionate parents, the ines- 
timable advantages of a learned, liberal, and virtuous 
education : and, for his further improvement, at the age 
of 18, he was sent to travel in foreign countries. None 
of all the precious advantages bestowed upon him by birth 
or education, was bestowed in vain ; he ardently soared, 
and rapidly rose, to a height of excellence, rarely exceed- 
ed, in intellectual and moral attainments ; and his various 
and powerful talents, his extensive and well digested 
learning, the elevated and generous sentiments glowing in 
his breast, the pure and virtuous principles animating his 
conduct, were graced with the fascinating charms of a fine 
person, recommended by every manly and martial accom- 
plishment, and by the most pleasing and polished manners. 
On his return home, after an absence of three years, all 
the excellencies of his noble and amiable character shone 
out, with resplendent lustre ; every eye was dazzled, every 
heart was attracted ; he soon became the ornament and 
delight of the English court and the English nation ; and, 
thence, his high reputation extended, and excited great 
and general admiration, in all the other courts and coun- 
tries of Europe. Every where the men of learning were 
pro ad to dedicate to him their works ; the poets delighted 
to celebrate his virtues and accomplishments ; princes 
condescended to repeat his praises, and to court his favor; 
and so extraordinary was his fame, that, as Sir Robert 
Naunton* relates, he was even put in nomination, at the 
election of a King of Poland. His royal mistress, Eliza- 
beth, however, opposed his advancement, " not from 
emulation" as Sir Robert expresses it, " but from fear 



* .'• Fragmenta Regalia," published in the Harleian Miscellany— also in the 
ThcEnlx, v. I. p. 198. 



OF THE CASTLE. 223 



Death of Sir Philip Sidney. 



of losing the jewel of her time." — " He was, indeed," 
continues the same writer, who knew him personally, 
" a noble and matchless gentleman ; and it may be justly 
" said of him, as it was of Cato, of Utica, that he seemed 
" born only to that which he went about, versatills 
ingenii."* But the splendid career of his virtuous and 
honourable life — unhappily for his country, and the 
world! — terminated October 17, 1586, at the early age of 
32. As he was valiantly fighting on the side of the 
Dutch, against their Spanish oppressors, near Zutphen> 



* It would be endless to repeat all the high and honourable testimonies that have 
been borne, from the earliest to the latest limes, by writers of every description and every 
country, to the great and amiable qualities of Sir Philip Sidney — of whom it hasevea 
been said that " he approaches mure nearly io the idea of a perfect man, us well as of a 
perfect Knight, than any character of any age or nation." — Who, then, in the midst of 
this great and universal admiration, can witness, without disgust and disdain, the strange, 
unjust, and most perverse attempt of the late Lord Orford, to bring down so fair and 
beautiful, and exalted a character from that height of eminence to which it has been ever 
raised, by the unanimous suffrages of all ages, and all nations! — " When we," says hii 
Lordship, " at this distance of time, enquire what were the prodigious merits which 
•' excited such admiration — what do we find ? " — Can it be credited that, to this question, the 
only reply is, " nothing but valour ? " — and that, too, it is added, " in an age of heroes," — 
when, of course, valour was a cheap and common quality ! — Surely ! surely ! no lordly 
rank, nor literary celebrity, nor even good desert, in other respects, ought to shelter from 
severe and indignant reproach so shameless a defrauder of the just praises of the illustrious 
dead ! and though himself no longer living, yet must so wrongful an attempt to injure the 
memory of one of the most exalted of human beings, recoil with deepest disgrace upon his 
own ! — How most unfair too, is the same noble Writer, in estimating the literary merits 
of Sir Philip ! Though his celebrated work " The. Arcadia," will not bear to be tried 
bv the rules of modern criticism, jet certainly it deserves not the contempt poured upon 
it by his Lordship. It was long universally read and admired, and frequently imitated : 
and, though tedious as a whole, yet, in many of its parts, it would highly gratify a modern 
reader, even of refined taste and judgment. — But another performance, by many esteemed 
his best, entitled " Defense of Poetre" is passed entirely unnoticed by Lord Orford; 
■who. in a later edition of his works, excuses himself by the pitiful plea of having forgotten 
jt ! — His famous " Letter to the Queen," also, on the subject of her proposed marriage with 
the Duke of Anjou, is said, by IIumk, to be written V with unusual elegance of expres- 
sion, as well as force of reasoning :" and his defence of his uncle, against a publication, 
called " Leicester's Commonwealth" is acknowledged, by Lord Orford himself, to be a 
spirited and powerful performance.— But enough for the compass of a note — which, however. 



224 PRIVATE APARTMENTS 



Domestic Ofjiees. 



he was mortally wounded ; and it is of him that beautiful 
instance of humanity is recorded, which has lately been 
made the subject of a fine picture, by the first historical 
painter of the age, the venerable Mr. West. Retiring 
from the field, overcome with thirst, from excessive bleed- 
ing, he called for water ; and, just as he was raising it to 
his lips, a poor soldier, at that moment carried alone 
desperately wounded, fixed upon it his eager and longing 
eyes ; instantly, the fainting hero withdrew the water from 
his own lips, and ordered it to be delivered to him, with 
these memorable words, " Thy necessity is yet greater 
than mine !" 

DOMESTIC OFFICES, &C 

Under the principal range of apartments, is another, 
extending the whole length of the Castle, from east to 
west — in which are the various domestic offices. These 
are all formed out of the solid rock, supported by lofty 
and beautiful arches, presenting in the whole, a most 
striking appearance : and though they may be considered, 
as under ground, with respect to the Court on the 
north side; yet, the windows, looking southward, are still 
6*0 feet above the bed of the river. What a suite of 
magnificent apartments might here be formed ! As it 
is, however, they are well employed, as offices for the 
various domestic purposes, necessary or useful, in this 
large and princely abode. 



must not yet be closed, without adding, that, since it whs penned, the writer has perused, 
with inexpressible delight, Dr. Zouch's " Memoirs of Sir Philip Sidney" — in which the 
high pre-eminence of his character is elegantly and forcibly delineated; and a defence 
provided, more than sufficient to bid contemptuous defiance to all attack, though a 
thousand times less flimsy and less futile than that of the Biographer of the Noble and 
Koj'al Authors — in which, indeed, the daringness of the design, and the feebleness of the 
execution, form a most remarkable instance of striking contrast ! 



OF THE CASTLE. 225 

Servant's Hall — Kitchen. 

At the eastern extremity, are the Housekeeper's 
rooms, opposite to which, are Servants' rooms, and the 
Butlers' pantry. Moving westward, appear the wine 
cellars — succeeded by the spacious ale cellar — and those 
for wood and coal. Beyond these, are the old Servants' 
hall and kitchen, together with large and convenient lar- 
ders; and, near the western extremity, is the present 
kitchen, of ample size, furnished with every convenience ; 
and surrounded by pantry, store-rooms, and some other 
small apartments. 




F F 



226* PLEASURE GROUNUS 



Viezo from Guy's Tower. 



CHAP. XXIII. 



3Mea0ure ^Brounfcg of tfje Cattle. 

Wiezofrom Guy's Tower — Dungeon of Casars Tower — the Green House — Grand 
Antique Vase — Walk through the Garden Plantations — View on the 
Lawn — Near View of the Castle — the Pavilion — the Hill House — the 
Mount-— the North lower — the Porter's Lodge — Guy's Armour— Rids 
round the Park — the Lake — the Bridge — the Park-Lodge. 



V_/N leaving the interior of the Castle, the Stranger 
usually ascends to the top of Guy's Tower. The ascent, 
though long, is not very difficult ; and the view from the 
summit will amply repay him the fatigue. Winding up 
the stone stairs, and passing five distinct stories, he will 
find himself on the battlements — elevated above the level 
of the ground 130 feet, and above that of the river 150. — 
From this eminence, a striking view is commanded, of all 
the streets and buildings of the town, on the one side ; and 
the whole extent of the park, stretching five miles in cir- 
cumference, on the other. In the distance, are seen the 
three spires of Coventry, one of them, next to Salisbury, 
the highest in the kingdom ; and, in the opposite direction, 
the Saxon Tower in Lord Coventry's park, on the Broad- 
way Hill. The Shropshire Hills, and those of Shuckburgh 
Park, are also clearly to be seen ; as are, in the nearer 
tract, Kenilworth Castle, Grove Park, the seat of Lord 
Dormer, and a considerable number of village churches, in 
all directions. The romantic retreat of Guys Cliff is al- 



OF THE CASTLE. 227 



Dungeon of Ccesars Tower — Gree?i House. 

most concealed in the bosom of its own rocks and woods ; 
but Blacklow Hill, near it, crowned with its tufted ever- 
greens, is clearly to be discerned. — From this tower, the 
look down through the open space, left by the hanging 
battlements, is truly tremendous. 

Into Caesar's Tower Strangers are not admitted. 
Some of the higher apartments are inhabited ; but under-* 
neath is a dungeon, deep, damp, and dark ; exhibiting a 
horrible specimen of a place of subterraneous imprison- 
ment. One small loop-hole admits its only light ; insuf- 
ficient for tracing the large letters and figures, still visible 
by the help of a candle on the wall. One of the more 
legible of these inscriptions records the confinement of a 
Royalist Soldier,* during the Civil War, who was here 
immured, a wretched captive, for the long space of three 
or four years. 

Descending from the summit of Guy's Tower, 
and re-entering the Inner Court — on its northern side, — 
a portcullis "opens, — leading — by an ivy-mantled bridge, 
beautifully picturesque, thrown over the deep moat — into 
the broad gravelled walk of the Pleasure Grounds. 

Entering this walk, the thick shades, on the right, 
conceal the Stables of the Castle, and the buildings of the 
town ; but admit a good passing view of St. Nicholas* 
spire. Proceeding a few hundred yards, the Green-House 
appears, a spacious and handsome building, designed and 
finished by Eboral, an ingenious Architect of Warwick. 



* " Master John Smyth, Guner to his Majesty's Highness, was a prisoner in this place 
in the year uf our Lord 1642, .% 4, 5. — William Sidiate rot this same, and if my 
pen had been bttter, for his sake, 1 would have mended everie letter." 

F F 2 



228 PLEASURE GROUNDS 

Celebrated Antique Vase. 

It has a modern Gothic front of stone, plain and un- 
adorned — and, looking out over an extensive lawn, imme- 
diately before it, obtains a fine view of a wide bend of 
the river, with the rich w r oods rising beyond, and the 
Keepers Lodge towering above. 

This beautiful Green-House was expressly built for 
the purpose of receiving the celebrated Antiglue Vase, 
which is certainly one of the noblest specimens of ancient 
art at present remaining. It is formed of white marble; 
and, in design and execution, is in the purest Grecian taste. 
It is of circular shape, and large size, capable of holding 
l63 gallons. It is placed on a square pedestal, within a 
semi-circular recess ; and is made to move round by means 
of a mortise and tenon. It has two large handles, exqui- 
sitely formed, by interwoven vine-branches, from which 
tendrils shoot, and most beautifully spread, with their 
large leaves and clustering grapes, round the whole upper 
margin. On the body itself, extending round its middle, 
appears the skin, with the head and claws of a panther, the 
well-know r n emblem of the God of Mirth and Wine ; and, 
immediately above, are some of the finest heads, which the 
Sculptors art has ever produced — representing those of 
his attending Satyrs : some with ivy-bound hair, and all 
with mirthful countenances, happily suited to the gaiety 
and good cheer, to which this magnificent bacchanalian 
vase was dedicated. Amongst its other ornaments are the 
thyrsus, or vine-clad spear of Bacchus — and the lituus, or 
crooked staff of the augurs. The whole remains in a state 
of excellent preservation ; nor is any part the production 
of a modern hand, except the head of one of the Satyrs.- — 
It is to be regretted, however, that the white composition 
seems not to be quite cleared off, with which the workmen 



OF THE CASTLE. 229 

Plantation. 

1 ' ' ~rm 

covered it, who were employed by Lord Lonsdale, to take 
a model of it, with the view of casting another, intended 
to be of solid silver, gilt. 

This noble production of ancient art, as a Latin 
inscription* partly informs, was found at the bottom of a 
lake, not far from Hadrians Villa, near Tivoli, about 
twelve or fourteen miles from Rome ; and was first pur- 
chased by the late Sir William Hamilton, then Ambas- 
sador at the Court of Naples. But the inscription fails to 
state, as truth and justice required, that it was afterwards 
re-purchased by the present Earl of Warwick, and that, 
at his sole expence, it was conveyed to England. To him, 
therefore, the Lovers of the Fine Arts, in this kingdom, 
are indebted for the high gratification, which so grand a 
display of antique sculpture, in all its perfection, must 
afford.-}- 

Passing from the Green-House — the walk, laid out 
by Brown, continues — winding through the tasteful and 
beautiful plantation, formed of large and luxuriant trees 
and shrubs, uninjured by the edge of the axe, almost un- 
touched by the hand of art — consisting of every various 
species, the oak, the beech, the elm, the fir, the larch, and 
particularly the cedar of Lebanon ; which is said to abound 
more, and to thrive more, in this than in any other plan- 



* Hoc pristinae arris Romans que magnificeniiae monumentum ruderibus villas Tibur- 
tinse Hadriano Aug. in deliciis habiiae effossum restitni curavit Eques Gulielmus Hamilton, 
aGeorgioTenio Magnaa Britannia; Rege ad Sicil. Regera Ferdinandum Quartum legatus ; 
et in patriam transniissnm Patrio Bonarum Ariium, genio dicavit An. Ac. N. 1774. 

t In Piranesi Vasi et Candelabti are three engravings of tliis vase ; and in the Anliqn. 
& Topograp. Cabinet, No. 2, is one, small but correct. An engraving of it is also to 
fee seen io the Gentleman's Magazine. 

■ 



230 PLEASURE GROUNDS 

Near View on the Lawn, fyc, — Pavilion 

t ..m. ■ ■ 1 1 i ' ' • i i i - r. i . 

tation in the kingdom. One of this last species, planted 
by the present Earl, was measured last year ; and, at three 
feet from the ground, was found to be eleven feet eight 
inches in the girth. 

On approaching the banks of the river — the walk 
again opens on the extensive lawn — and from this point is 
presented, in fine assemblage, a variety of pleasing and 
striking objects. On the one hand, appears, at a proper 
distance, the Gothic Green-House ; and before it, gently 
swelling, the large expanse of velvet turf — bounded, on 
each side, by trees and shrubs, grouped or scattered about ; 
and backed with dark and lofty shades ; above whic hrises, 
with good effect, the tower of St. Marys. On the other 
hand, is seen the Avon, gliding softly along ; diversified, 
at a small distance, by the cascade, the mill, and the 
ruined arches of the bridge, Here, too, a deficiency, in 
the want of passing views of the main edifice, of which 
some have complained,* in the manner of laying out the 
grounds, is amply compensated. For here, from a new 
point, the venerable Castle again appears, in ail its solemn 
grandeur — proudly ascending far above the level of the 
waters, and finely relieved by the mingling shades of clus- 
tering ivy and spreading trees. 

Passing onward — the Pavilion soon appears — 
where, by a sudden change, the stranger finds himself em- 
bosomed within the umbrageous arms of a group of trees — 
shut out from all view of the surrounding scenery — as if 
for the pause of a few moments — usually so needful after 



* Gilpin's Northern Tour, v. I. p. 40. lt the close walk reverts into itself, taking no 
notice, except in one single point, of the venerable pile it invests." 



OF THE CASTLE. 231 

Near View of the Casfle — the Hill House. 

^— — —— — — — — ^— ■— i— — i^ wSSSSSm 555 5SS5S — BESS — 1 —— 

the attention has been so long and vigorously excited. A 
slight and interrupted glance, however, may be obtained over 
a small branch of the river, crossed by a rustic bridge, and 
the opposite meadows, enlivened by browsing cattle or 
sheep — presenting only a small assemblage of rural objects, 
— in strong contrast with the solemn grandeur, which is 
every where else displayed. 

Advancing towards the foundations of the Castle, 
on the solid rock, from which they are scarcely to be dis- 
tinguished — its towering heigh th and expanding bulk are 
submitted to the uninterrupted view, with great and asto- 
nishing effect. Even the rocks themselves, rising perpen- 
dicularly upward to a vast height, and richly clothed, in 
many parts, with ivy, moss, and other creeping plants, 
look with amazing grandeur. — And here, from every feel- 
ing bosom, a passing sigh will rise, for the melancholy 
fate of a youth, of noble family, cousin to Lord Bagot, 
who, engaged in the amusement of rowing, during the time 
of a considerable flood, was here unfortunately drowned, 
in the very view of the Castle Windows, January 10, 1800. 
A friend, who accompanied him, was, with difficulty, saved. 
A small plate of copper, unostentatiously fastened to the 
rock, records, in six Latin lines, the sorrows of paternal 
affection, on this distressing occasion.* 

Passing through a tower, called the Hill House, a 
circuitous path, carried round a well-wooded mount, 



* Juxta hatic riparo, e cymba submersus fuit, 

Gualterus Bagot, Jan. lo A. D. 1800, J&l. suk 22. 
Oh ! crurlelis Avon, Stygia iofeiitior unda, 
Suaviloquus post hac non tioi prosit Olor ! 
Merso, namque, tuo violenti in gergite, nato 
Hec verba inscripsit flen set amau» Genitor. 



232 PLEASURE GROUNDS 

Porter's Lodge — Guy's Armour. 

affords delightful views in passing, among which that of 
St. Mary's tower, emulously rising above the lofty groves, 
is peculiarly striking. The path, pursuing its winding 
course,* terminates at length in a broad space, on the 
summit, shaded by the spreading arms of an aged and 
venerable fir. Here once stood the ancient Keep ; and 
here, now, stands what is called the Northern Tower. — 
From this place a striking view is obtained, through an 
iron grating, into the inner court of the Castle, on one 
side; and, on the other, the prospect extends, from the 
nearer grounds, over a vast expanse of country, till the 
eye, wandering from one attractive point to another, is 
finally lost in the blue mists, which usually cover, and 
often entirely conceal, the distant Edge Hills, and the still 
more distant hills of Bredon and Broadway. 

Descending from this woody mount, a door from 
the Hill House opens into the Inner Court, through which 
the stranger usually re-passes on his return — And, before 
he takes his final leave of Warwick Castle — a visit is 
usually paid to the Porters Lodge. 

Here are to be seen the following curiosities : — 
Guy's Armour ,\\ undoubtedly ancient, and of enormous 



* It is thus described in the Iter Boreale : 

Up to the tower, tho' it be steepe & high, 

We do not climbe but walke; & tho' the eye 

Seem to be wearj, jyet our ftet are still 

In the same posture, cozen'd up the hill: 

And thus the Workeman's art deceaves our senee, 

Making these rounds of pleasure, a defence. 

H Engravings of most of these pieces of ancient aiuuur are given in Gnoss'i Ancient 
Armour, Plate 42 and 48. 



OF THE CASTLE. 



Guy'i Horse Armour — Rib of the Dun Coic. 

weight, consisting of his sword,* shield, breast-plate, hel- 
met, walking-staff, and til ting-pole — The Horse Armour 
of later date and lighter fabric — on which is an inscrip- 
tion, nearly obliterated — A large Bell-metal Pot, usually 
called Guy's — his Flesh Fork — his Lady s stirrups of Iron 
— pretended Rib of the Dun Cow\\ and pith of her Horns 
— one joint of the spine — the tusk, and a shoulder blade 
of the Wild Boar. 

Besides these, which are immediately connected 
with the history of Guy — there are, a Spanish h albert — 
a Toledo sword — a battle axe — two ancient maces — two 
daggers — a General's truncheon — a tomahawk — bar chain 
— and spike shot, dug up in the Outer Court — and a stone 
coffin, found in the Inner Court. 

Though for the sword, and some part of the ar- 
mour of Guy, high antiquity is justly claimed ; yet, if 
even these should, after all, be thought fictitious, " they 
are still," says Gilpin, " no improper appendages of the 
place, as they give the imagination a kind of tinge, which 
throws an agreeable romantic colour, on all the vestiges 
of this venerable pile." 

To this short account of the Pleasure Grounds, and 
other appendages of the Castle, we subjoin the following 
slight sketch of the Ride through the Park : — 



* See p. 26. || There is a fellow Rib of this supposed Dun Cow, preserved under 

the tower of Uedcliffe Church, Bristol. But that they are certainly no part of any such 
animal is e*ident, both from their enormous size, and still mere from the position of the 
ribs ; which, in a cow, have their flat surface parallel to the sides of the animal, instead of 
■perpendicular, as is the case here. It seems highly probable, therefore, that these are the 
bones of some marine animal, since the ribs are placed in the same manner, as in most 
anira-ds of that kind — who are lhu» defended, by a wise provision of nature, fraca the great 
pressure cf the fluid, in which tbey are destined to exist. 

G G 



m Pleasure grounds 



Hide through the Park — Views of the Castle. 



Towards the bottom of the Lawn, the great walk 
of the Garden is crossed at right angles by another, lead- 
ing, through large and thriving plantations, to this delight- 
ful Ride ; which, skirting the entire boundary of the park, 
is continued in a wide circumference of about five miles — 
intersected by many collateral branches, affording other 
Rides of pleasing variety and different distances. — On one 
side, the principal Ride is shaded, by a broad belt of young 
and flourishing trees, among which are seen various species 
of evergreens and deciduous shrubs, intermingled with the 
oak, the beech, the ash, and other trees of the forest — 
exhibiting almost every gradation of tint, from the lightest 
and gayest to the darkest green. On the other side, open- 
ing to the Park, delightful views are commanded, in 
passing, over its undulating surface ; in some parts, thickly 
sprinkled with trees; in others, deeply shaded with groves; 
and finely watered, in a long course, by the windings of 
the Avon b and by its own beautiful lake, which spreads 
into a liquid plain, " pure as the expanse of heaven," 
towards the centre. Here, too, with all the grandeur of 
park-scenery, are united the rural beauties of a ferme 
ornee ; and pleasing views are caught, at intervals, of rich 
pastures, fertile corn fields, and browsing flocks and herds. 
The deep and solemn shade of the noble and extensive 
woods, through which the Ride is occasionally conducted, 
agreeably changes, at times, and relieves the scene. Rut 
the great charm of the whole excursion is, in the many 
picturesque views, which the venerable Castle itself affords 
— sometimes bursting suddenly on the eye, through an 
opening in the thick shades — and, at other times, display- 
ed, in all its magnificence, before the uninterrupted sight, 
in the midst of the fine and richly varied landscape, of 
which it forms the crowning glory. 



OF THE CASTLE. 235 



•^9 



The Lake— The Riallo. 



Amongst other objects that will interest and delight 
in this excursion, must be particularly noticed the spacious 
and beautiful Lake, already mentioned, stretching, in a 
noble sweep, of a mile in length, and varying in its breadth 
from three hundred to six hundred feet. This is, indeed, 
— not of the kind which Virgil describes as stagna 
virentia musco — but of that which the same great master 
of nature strikingly denominates vivique lacus. The 
waters of this fine expanse, supplied by a small stream, 
rising at Chesterton, six miles distant, are pure and pel- 
lucid: not a weed deforms its smooth surface; not the 
least turbid mixture sullies the glassy clearness of its 
whole depth, which, in some parts, is not less than 25 
feet. It is well stored with fish ; and enlivened with 
abundance of aquatic fowl, particularly the wild duck, 
of which some curious varieties are here to be seen. Its 
banks, on each side, boldly rise, graced with turfted 
verdure, and crowned with hanging woods. At a small 
distance, on the east side, in the midst of a group of elms, 
is to be seen a herony, besides which so few are to be 
found throughout the kingdom. 

In another part of the park, a light and elegant. 
Bridge appears to view — bestriding the waters of the Avon, 
and connecting the two parts of the domain. It is built 
of stone, and consists of one noble arch, 24 feet in the 
heighth, and 101 feet in the span. Near this Bridge, is 
an uncommonly fine echo ; but the effect depends much 
upon the state of the winds. — Above,, upon a bold emi- 
nence, in the midst of towering and spreading woods, is 
a handsome Stone Lodge, the residence of the keeper, in 
which is a summer apartment, for the occasional use of 
the Noble Family. From this Lodge, is to be seen the 

g g 2 



236 PLEASURE GROUNDS, &c. 



Distant View of the Castle. 



fine distant view of the Castle,* with all its surround- 
ing scenery, which was so much admired hy Mr. Ire- 
land, and is particularly described in his Picturesque 
Views of the Warwickshire Avon^ p. 149. — In closing 
our short account of this noble Park, as it now appears, 
with all its recent enlargements and improvements, it 
would be great injustice not to mention, that it is, in nearly 
the whole, the creation of the present Earl — u planned 
by his taste, and planted by his hand " — to whom, there- 
fore, with no less propriety, than to his Noble Father, 
might be addressed the pleasing complimentary lines 
of a Poet, || of no little celebrity within the County of 
Warwick. 



Nor spares his generous mind 



" The cost of rural work, plantation large, 

" Forest or fragrant shrub, or shelter'd walks, 

" Or ample verdant lawns, where the rich flocks 

•'Sport on the brink of Avon's flood, in sight 

*' Of his superb abode ! Magnificence 

s * With grace uniting, and enlarged delight 

*' Of Prospect fair, and Nature' & smiling scenes !' 




* This View is given as an embellishment to the present work. 

H •• Edge Hill, or the Rural Prospect Moralized," a poem, by Richard Iago, M. At 
S?67. This spirited and pleasing poem is little known beyond the wide tract of country, 
which it particularly describes. But the elegy on <•' the Blackbirds" and another on u the 
Goldfinches," by the same author, are, probably, within the remembrance of most readers. 



THE PRIORY. 23/ 



Founded in the Reign of Henry I. 



CHAP. XXIY. 



Priory of St. Sepulchre, founded by Henry de Newburg — encouraged by Royal 
Favor — enriched by Public Liberality — dissolved in the Reign of 
Henry VIII. — Ancient Edifice granted to Thomas Hawkins — pulled 
down — and the present Structure erected — Celebration of the Order of 
St. Michael — Visit of Queen Elizabeth to the Priory — the Mansion and 
Estate purchased by Serf. Puckering — devised to Sir H. Newton — pur- 
chased by Henry Wist, Esq. — Present State of the Edifice — the Pleasure 
Grounds, 



JL HE Priory of , St. Sepulchre, situated on the north 
side of Warwick, on the site of an ancient Church, dedi- 
cated to St, Helen, was founded by Henry de Newburg,* 
Earl of Warwick, and completed by his son, Roger,^ 
in the reign of Henry I. It was designed for the accom- 
modation of a society of Regular Canons, instituted in 
imitation of one of the same order, established at the Holy 
Sepulchre, in Jerusalem ; to which at that time, Chris- 
tian pilgrims were accustomed, in great numbers, to resort. 
They wore the same habit as the other Canons Regular ; 
with the distinction, only, of a double cross of red on the 



* " Henricus de Novoburgo erat primus fundaior ad instantiam Hierosolymitanorurn 
«cclesiae Canonicorura regularium Scti. Sepulchri Warr." Rout' Roll. 

§ Rogerus Comes Warr. ac etiam Vicecomes ejusdem in Anglia, et Comes de Novo* 
burgo, &c. Hie opus apud sanctum sepulchrum W'arwici (a palre inceptum) complevit.— • 
Rout' HolL 



238 THE PRIORY 



Prior i) dissolved at the Reformation. 



breast of the upper garment. No account remains of the 
estates originally assigned for their support, but Dugdale 
thinks it probable that much of the adjacent land was 
given, for that purpose, 

It is certain, however, that this religious institu- 
tion continued to subsist and to flourish, for a long series 
of years, encouraged by the smiles of royal favor, and 
enriched by the liberality of the public, especially by that 
of the successive Earls of Warwick, and their families. — 
To the former, it was obliged for some important privi- 
leges, granted in the reigns of Henry II. and Richard I. 
and confirmed in those of Henry III. and Edward III. 
To the latter, it was indebted for considerable additions to 
its possessions, in various estates, situated in Warwick, 
Tlatton, Claverdon, Snitterjleld, Soli/ hull, and other 
places. 

In the reign of Henry VIII. at the important 
period of the Reformation, the Priory of Warwick shared 
the fate of other religious institutions, which were at that 
time dissolved. The building itself, and the lands imme- 
diately adjacent, belonging to it, were then seized by the 
Crown, and remained for some time in its possession ; till, 
in 1547, tne y were granted to Thomas Hawkins, and his 
heirs, to be held in soccage of the Castle, at the yearly 
rent of 26s, gd. 

Thomas Hawkins was of obscure origin, and 
usually known by the name of Fisher, from the circum- 
stance of his father having been engaged in the low em- 
ployment of selling fish, in the market-place at Warwick. 
The better fortunes of the son began with his reception 



THE PRIORY. . 239 



Grunted to Thomas Hawkins, 



into the family of John Dudley, Earl of Warwick, after- 
wards the famous Duke of Nortlaimberland. He was, 
next, employed as secretary to the Duke of Somerset, Pro- 
tector to the young king, Edward VI. — Afterwards he 
entered into the army ; and as Colonel, at the head of an 
English regiment, obtained high distinction, at the battle 
of Musselborough Field, in Scotland. When, on the death 
of Edward VI. the Duke of Northumberland aspired to 
place his daughter-in-law., Lady Jane Grey, on the 
throne, lie entrusted a large sum of money, for the pur- 
pose of promoting his ambitious project, to the care and 
disposal of his old servant, Fisher. — This money was 
concealed in Bishops Itchington Pool ; and being required, 
after the decapitation of his master, to deliver it, for the 
use of Queen Mary, it is said, Fisher sturdily refused ; 
and even suffered all the extremity of torture, rather than 
discover it. Whether he afterwards restored the hidden 
treasure to the family of the late Duke, or appropriated it 
to his own use, history is silent. 

It appears, however, that in the service of his two 
noble masters, Fisher acquired a very large fortune ; 
which was afterwards increased by the purchase of mo- 
nastery and church lands, to an immense amount. When, 
amongst others, he had obtained possession of the Priory, 
the ancient edifice was immediately pulled down ; and, on 
its site, the present large and handsome structure, with 
the exception of the garden front, as hereafter mentioned, 
was then erected. But, of the original building, as 
Dr. Stukely observes,* two galleries were suffered to 
remain ; and, it may be added, part, also, if not the whole, 



* Itiner. Curi< i II. ?] 



140 THE PRIORY. 



Vriory re-erected. 



of the chapel. Much of the former, and evident remains 
of the latter, are still to be seen. To the newly-erected 
mansion, which was completed in 1556, the name of 
" Hawkins Nest" was given ; and " its situation," says 
Dugdale, " in the midst of a grove of lofty elms," ren- 
dered that name not inappropriate. Yet its old designa- 
tion of the Priory, if discontinued at all, soon revived, and 
finally prevailed. According to the same author, the 
windows were finely adorned with the arms of Fisher 
and of his two noble Patrons ; but of these, all traces have 
long since disappeared. 

In the month of September, 1571, the Priory was 
a scene of great and splendid festivities, of which a curious 
account is preserved in the Black Book, referred to in a 
former part of this work.* Robert Dudley, Earl of 
Leicester, arrived on the 27th of that month, at Warwick, 
for the purpose of celebrating, at St. Mary's Church, the 
French order of St. Michael, with which he had been 
lately invested ; and took up his abode at the seat of 
Mr. Fisher, the favoured servant, as already mentioned, 
of the late Duke, his father. He was accompanied by his 
brother, the Earl of Warwick, and by a long and illus- 
trious train of nobles, knights, and gentlemen; and was 
received with every possible honor at the Priory. Here, 
soon after his arrival, he was waited upon, in all due form ? 
by the Bailiff and Burgesses of Warwick, who were soli- 
citous to pay their respects to a peer of the realm, the 
favorite of the Queen, and the patron of their town. But 
they had committed, it appears, a grievous offence, in 
failing to meet him, on his first entrance into the town, as 



p. 14. 



THE PRIORY. 241 



Grand Processio?i to celebrate the Order of St. Michael. 

he had expected ; though this honor was seldom conferred 
upon any one below the rank of a royal personage. At 
first, therefore, they were rudely repulsed ; and their 
offered present of a yoke of fat oxen, which cost ^11. 
was disdainfully rejected. However, on their humble 
submission, they were pardoned ; and permitted to join 
the grand procession, which went, on St. Michael's Day, 
from the Priory to the Church, and of which some notice 
has already been taken. 

On the morning of that day, the procession set 
out in the following order. First the commoners, two 
and two ; then four constables, in a rank, with " little 
white stiks in their handes;" then the twelve principal 
burgesses, two and two, iC the youngest going formost ;" 
next followed u such of my Lord's Gentlemen and Gen- 
tlemen of the Shire as wayted uppon him that day ;'* 
then "cam the Serjant, bering his mace;" and after 
him " the Bailief alone, in a gowne of skarlet." Next 
after him came, "all in one rank, Mr W Gorge, Steward, 
" Mr. T. Dudley, Comptroller, and Mr. R. Cristmas, Tre- 
u surer to my Lord, all with white staves." They were fol- 
lowed by " Dragon, pursyvant at amies, and Clarenseaux, 
" king at armes, both in coat armors." Then advanced 
" my said Lord, the Earle of Leycester, by himself, appa- 
" relied all in white ; his shoes of velvet ; his stoks of hose 
" knitt silk ; his upper stoks of white velvet, lyned with 
" cloth of silver; his dowlet of silver; his jerkin white 
" velvet drawers with silver, beawtified with gold and pre- 
ct cious stones ; his girdle and skabart white velvet ; his 
(e roobe white satten, embrowdered with gold a foot 
" broade, very curiously ; his cap black velvit with a white 
"fether; his colar of gold, besett with precious stones; 

H H 



43 THE PRIORY. 



Preparations in St. Marys Chancel. 



" and his garter about his leg of St. Georges order, a 
" sight worthie the beholding." After the Earl himself 
followed, as companions, " the Earle of Hertford, the 
" Lord Berkley, the Lord Dudley, the Lord Chandois ; 
" and the whole procession was closed by many other 
* c knights and gentlemen, all on foot." 

Great were the preparations made in the Chancel 
of St. Mary's, under the direction of the ec Herralds," for 
the important ceremony ! On the right side of the Choir, 
on entering, " a very riche clothe of estaste was hangid 
6i over ;" and, on the third stall, a place was prepared " for 
" the Earle himself to sitt in," over which " was sett up my 
" Lord's owne armes, envyroned with the garter, and with 
" a wrethe of gold, after the French order." Directly 
opposite, on the other side of the quire, were the French 
King's arms. As far as the seats extended, on each side, 
the Chancel " was hangid with rich clothe of gold ;" and 
beyond, with " arras and tapestry." — " Fourms were placed 
" for the noblemen, gentlemen, and others, to sit on, to 
cc heare the sermon." — " On the stall before my Lord, 
" lay a riche clothe, with a faire and costly cushion. On 
" the communion table was laid another faire cloth of 
" arras ; and before it a Turkye carpet, for my Lord to 
" kneel on, spred by two gentlemen." And, finally, " the 
" pulpitt was sett at the nether end of the Earle of War- 
" wick's tombe." 



Such were the preparations — the following was the 
ceremony. On entering the Choir, " my Lord made lowe 
" curtesie to the French King's armes," and was then 
conducted " by the Harrouhls" to his own place, "where 
" he satt and heard the sermond." The communion 



THE PRIORY. 243 



Ceremony of the Celebration — Festival at the Priori/. 

service was then said by the Minister, till he came to 
" the exhortacions of almes, and relief of the poore." He 
then advanced to the front of the table, holding a silver 
bason ; and while a " psalme" was sung, the " Herauld 
" Clarenseaux" approached the seat of the Earl, " with a 
" lowe curtesie," who immediately rose, followed the 
w Herrauld ;" and, after u making a very lowe curtesie 
<c before the French Ring's armes," proceeded to the com- 
munion table, and offered one piece of gold. He then 
retired back, and before " his owne armes, made another 
" lowe curtesie ;" thence, advancing, a second time, to the 
communion table, he offered another piece of gold. Re- 
conducted by the Heralds, he then resumed his former 
seat, " where he heard the rest of the prayers, untill the 
end." 

After the conclusion of this pompous ceremony, 
the procession returned, in the same order, to the Priory ; 
where the whole company was most splendidly enter- 
tained. The Earl himself, seated alone in a separate 
apartment, was waited upon by kneeling attendants ; and 
the multitude of dishes, served up to him, were all of pure 
gold. It was his intention to go, a second time, in grand 
procession, to the Church, to be present " at even song ;" 
but the rain prevented. The Earl remained at the Priory 
about six or seven days. 

In the following year, 15/2, when Queen Elizabeth 
was, for several days, at Warwick Castle, as already re- 
lated,* Thomas Fisher received the distinguished honor 
of a royal vish% at the Priory. Returning from a short 

• Page. 18. 
H H 2 



244 THE PRIORY. 



Visit of Queen Elizabeth to the Priory. 



excursion to Kenilworth, the Oiieen arrived late in the 
evening at Warwick; (C and because/' says the writer, so 
often before referred to*, " she woold see what chere my 
" Lady of Warwic made, she sodenly went into Mr. 
" Fisher's house," where she found a party at supper.-— 
With great condescension, the Queen immediately sat 
down amongst the company ; and, after a slight repast, 
with still greater condescension, withdrew for the kind 
purpose of visiting " the good man of the house, who was* 
H at that tyme, grevously vexed with the gowt." Apprised 
of the intended honor, the sick gentleman was lifted from 
his chamber into the adjoining gallery, where he was met 
by his gracious Sovereign* He would fain, as duty and 
gratitude prompted^ (( have knelid, or rather fallen down, 
f? before her feet ; but her Majesty would not suffer it." 
A conversation ensued, in which, " with most gracious 
a words," the Royal Visitor " did so comfort him," that 
the sick man, says our author, " forgetin his |myne," re- 
solved, " with more haste than good spede, to be on horse- 
" back next time of her Majestie's going abrode ;" and 
though his resolution was put to the trial so early as the 
second day afterwards, yet, continues the story, he actu- 
ally accomplished it — -attending her Majesty, on her 
return to Kenilworth — riding in company with the 
Lord Treasurer Burleigh — -and conversing with thatr 
great personage, it seems, with more freedom than dis- 
cretion. 1 1 



* Black Book. 

|] Yet tlie following mysterious account of our Reporter of the Black Book, who can 
liope to understand or explain ? — " He rode with the Lord Treasurer, reaporting such 
" things, as, some for their untruethes, and some for other causes, had been better untold j 
« but as he did it counsel! rashly and in heat, so by experience, at leysure, coldly he r*«- 
" |iented. What thica things meane is not for every ones to know/* 



THE PRIORY. 245 



The JUansioji, 6,-c. purchased by Serjeant tuckering. 

•_ i ' • 

Thomas Fisher survived this remarkable event of 
his life only a few years. On January 10, 15 76, he died; 
and was buried at the upper end of St. Mary's Church ; 
where, in Dugdale's time, a short monumental inscrip- 
tion was to be seen, which perished, no doubt, in the great 
fire. — After his death, the Priory descended to his son, 
Edward, with all his vast estates, amounting to the sum. 
of ^3,000 per ann. But the extravagance of the son, as 
is so often the case, soon dissipated all that the father had 
so laboriously and so anxiously amassed : and he was 
necessitated to offer this fine seat, with all its surrounding 
domains, to public sale. The relief arising from the pro- 
duce of this and other estates proved only temporary : and, 
at length, overwhelmed with debts, the wretched spend- 
thrift was committed to the Fleet Prison, where he ended 
his days miserably. 

The purchaser of the Priory, was Serjeant 
Puckering, Lord Keeper of the Great Seal, in the reign 
of Queen Elizabeth ; whose character is concisely but for- 
cibly described by Camden,* in two words " vir integer." 
From him it descended to his son, Sir Thomas Puck- 
ering, Knight and Baronet: who, to the accomplish- 
ments of a gentleman, added, in a high degree, the ac- 
quirements of a scholar. He had the honour of receiving 
his education in the Royal Palace ; and of being the fellow 
student of Prince Henry, son of James I., described by 
all our historians, as a youth of high. and extraordinary 
merits. He afterwards travelled through the different 
countries of Europe, for the space of four years : and, on 
returning to his native land, renounced all the allurements 



* Ann. Eliz. p. 630. 



246 THE PRIORY 

■ mil ■ ■ »■■ ■ ■■ i i— — — — — — « ■■ — tmt 

The Estate devolves to Sir H. Nezvton. 

of a court, and chose, in preference, a life of retirement in 
the country. He served, however, with great reputation, 
as Member of Parliament for Warwick and other places 
— but lived chiefly at the Priory : and, here, at the early 
age of 45, peacefully closed an honourable and useful life, 
March 20, \6s6. He lies buried in the Chancel of St. 
Mary's Church, ,' where a handsome monument, of highly 
polished marble, with a long Latin inscription, erected to 
his memory, is still to be seen. He left only one daugh- 
ter, Jane ; on whose decease, without issue, his estate de- 
volved to his nephew, Sir Henry Newton, son of Sir 
Adam Newton, of Charlton, near Greenwich, Kent. 

On succeeding to these fine estates, Sir Henry 
Newton assumed the name of Puckering, and fixed his 
residence at the Priory. In the unhappy contest between 
Charles I. and the Parliament, he espoused the royal 
cause ; and proved himself an intrepid warrior, as well as 
a zealous partisan. He was afterwards obliged to fly the 
country ; but, at length, by selling his manor of Charlton, 
and paying the produce as a fine, he effected his peace 
with the Protectors government, and was permitted to 
return home. He died, at a very advanced age, at the 
Priory, about the year 1700, leaving his estate to his 
widow; and, after her decease, to Lady Bowyer, his 
niece, and Captain Grantham, his nephew. It was soon 
afterwards offered to public sale ; and was purchased by 
the ancestors of the present family — in whose possession 
it has since remained. 

Of this family, the first who came into possession 
of the Priory, was Henry Wise, Esq. of Brompton Park, 
in the county of Middlesex ; who had long been employed 



THE PRIORY. 247 



Purchased by the Family of the Wises. 



in the service of Queen Anne and Prince George, as 
Superintendent of the Royal Gardens at Hampton Court*. 
Retiring, at an advanced age, to his newly-purchased seat, 
he here quietly ended his days, December 15, 1738 ; and 
was buried near the Chancel, in St. Ma?y's Church. He 
was succeeded, in the possession of the Priory, by his 
eldest son, Matthew Wise, Esq. By him a considerable 
part of the old building was taken down ; and, in its 
place, was erected the modern suite of apartments, with 
the handsome stone front, which now forms the Garden 
Front. He died at the Priory, unmarried, September 1 2, 
1776; and was buried, also, near the Chancel, in St. 
Mary's Church. On failure of issue, his estate descended 
to his brother, Henry Wise, Esq. who, however, never 
resided here ; but lived, and, within a short time after- 
wards, died at Hampton Court, where he was buried. 

His eldest son, Henry Christopher Wise, Esq. 
the father of the present family, next succeeded to the 
possession of the Priory. Here he fixed his residence — 
sustaining, to a good old age, and adorning the character 
of a private English gentleman. Once he was called 
from the bosom of that retirement, which he loved, to fill 
the office of High Sheriff for the county. He died Jan. 
14, 1805, in the 69th year of his age, and his remains 
were interred with those of his ancestors, in the family 
vault in St. Mary's Church. 

To him succeeded, in the possession of the Priory, 
and the bulk of his estates, his eldest son, the late 



* The name of this gentleman, as a distinguished horticulturist, occurs several 
times in the Spectator ; see No. b, and No. 477. He was concerned with another person, 
named London, in the publication of a book on Gardening. 



248 THE PRIORY. 



Present State of the Priori/. 



Matthew Blacket Wise, Esq. who, however, did not 
long live to enjoy them. In 180*, he served the office of 
High Sheriff for the county; and, within three years 
afterwards, terminated his days, at the early age of 43 . 
His death took place December 3, 1810, at Jlton, Hants, 
whence his remains were brought for interment in the 
family vault, in St. Mary's Church. He was married un- 
happily ; but, as he left no issue, his estate devolved to 
his brother, the Rev. Henry Wise, who resides, at pre- 
sent, on his living at Offchurch Bury, near Warwick. 

The Priory occupies a situation, in the immediate 
vicinity of the town, on a pleasing eminence, gently 
falling in every direction, embosomed in its own ancient 
and majestic groves, surrounded by delightful gardens, and 
an extensive park — forming " a beautiful sylvan scene," 
not often exceeded. The more ancient part of the edifice 
presents a fine specimen of the style of building, which 
prevailed at the time of its erection. — It originally formed 
a complete square ; of which three sides still remain, but 
the fourth has been removed. The western side is sup- 
posed to occupy the site, and to be formed partly of the 
walls of the Chapel, belonging to the original Priory ; 
which seems to be proved by the remains of a large 
baptismal font, of stone richly carved, strongly fixed in 
the wall, well worthy the notice of the curious antiquary. 
The Garden Front, erected about 70 years since, presents 
the appearance of a handsome modern mansion : and, from 
its windows, commands a delightful prospect over the 
surrounding country. In the interior, the ancient part 
still retains all the marks of its former grandeur : and the 
modern consists of a numerous suite of handsome and com- 
modious rooms. The Hall, in particular, is large and 



THE PRIORY. 249 



The Pleasure Grown !s. 



beautiful, with a lofty ceiling, formed in plaster work. 
The number of distinct apartments, throughout this ex* 
tensive pile, amounts, in the whole, to nearly one hundred. 

The Pleasure Grounds, immediately adjoining the 
mansion, are tastefully laid out, in the form of a spacious 
lawn, with one principal walk, carried round it ; some 
times, leading through the thick shades of beautiful groves 
and shrubberies ; and, sometimes, opening to a view of the 
house, on the one side, and the adjacent country, on the 
other. At a small distance, is a large kitchen garden ; 
encompassed with high walls ; planted with choice fruit 
trees, and furnished with hot houses and green houses. 
Surrounding the Avhole, is the extensive Park, consisting 
of nearly seventy acres, pleasingly varied in its surface, 
interspersed with several large pieces of water ; and richly 
embellished with trees of various species, most of vigorous 
growth, and many of finest forms — -among which the tall elm 
and the spreading chesnut are particularly conspicuous. 



Through this Park, are several Foot Paths, still 
left open to the Public ; affording, to the neighbouring 
inhabitants, some of the most rural and delightful walks 
imaginable — which, by one of our popular writers* of 
Travels, is justly noticed, as a happy circumstance, in the 
vicinity of a large town ; the environs of which are too 
often disfigured by the wretched habitations of squalled 
poverty, or by the tasteless erections of wealthy dulness 
or folly. The same circumstance was, also, long before, 
thus pleasingly noticed by the muse of Iago, — 

*< where the gay tribes 

" [ndulge the social walk ; once the gloomy haunt of monks, 
" And now the abode of rural elegance !"|| 

* Warnu'j Northern Tmr, v. II. p. 238, j| •« Edge Hill." 

I I 



250 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT 



Situation — Oris in of the Name. 



chap. xxr. 



i^ijftorkal 3fittount of 45up'^<CIiff, 

Situation of the Place— Origin of the Name — an Oratory built here by St. 
Dubritius — the chosen Retreat of the Famous Guy — and of two other 
Hermits— visited by Henry V. — a Charity founded here by Rich, de 
Beauchamp — Chapel re-built, and the Walls inclosed by his Executors — 
John Rous settled here as a Chantry Priest — Account of him— the 
Chapel and all its appurtenances granted 1st of Edward VI. to Sir A* 
Flammock — purchased by W. Hudson, Esq. — devolved to Sir T. Beaufoy 
—again purchased by Mr. Edwards — and finally by S. Greutheed, Esq. 
> — Description of the Place by Leland — by Camden — by Fuller — by 
Dugdale — Recent Notice by Warner. 



VXUY'S-CLIFF,* the seat of Bertie Greatheed, 
Esa. about a mile from Warwick, on the Coventry road, 
so long celebrated for the romantic beauties of its situa- 
tion, derives its name from the abruptly rising, boldly 
prominent Rocks, which form the principal feature in the 
landscape ; and from the far-famed Champion, who here 



* For the early orthography of this interesting place, there can be no better 
authority than that of its former inhabitant, our great Warwickshire Antiquary, John 
Rous ; who, in his M. S. Roll of the Portraitures of the Earls of Warwick, narrating the 
life of the famous Guy, writes thus—" Se ChrUti jugo sponte subjiciens apud Gibcliffe 
juxta IVarwicum, &c.":— also, in his life of Richard Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, 
" cepellum de Cibclife, sumptuose reparovit." 



1 



OF GUYS-CLIFF. 251 

<■— ^— p— »— BBK38SB8B —* — M BBSS ~— ' ™* — ! ! ' ' " I ■— ^— — ■— — 

An Oratory built here by St. Dubritius. 

passed,* according to ancient story, dedicated to devotion, 
the closing years of a bustling life, of warlike achieve- 
ments and wonderful adventures. 

But even four hundred years before the age of 
Guy, in the days of the ancient Britons, if we may believe, 
the great antiquary Rous — himself a resident here — this 
place was remarked and selected as favorable, from its 
solitude and its beautiful scenery, to the sublime contem- 
plations of religion by St. Dubritius, a Christian Bishop, |j 
who had, at that time, it is said, his episcopal seat at 
Warwick. Here, in consequence, an Oratory or small 
Chapel, according to the same author, was erected by him 5 
and dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene. But it does not 
appear that any priest was appointed to officiate in it, or 
any provision made for the regular exercises of devotion* 
It was probably designed, like other similar erections, for 
the occasional use of the religious of those times, to whose 
assistance a priest was sometimes sent by the Bishop. 

At the period, however, when Guy himself, after all 
his martial exploits, satiated with the honours, and wearied 
with the bustle of the world, sought, on this spot, repose 
and comfort, in the exercises of religion — it is distinctly 
related, § that he found, already settled here, a pious 



• *' At length to Warwick I did come, 
•' Like Pilgrim poor and was not koownj 
" And then I lived a Hermit life 

*• A mile and more out of the Town." Legend op Guv. 

j| Sanctus Dubritius vir in suis temporibus maxima? sanctatis cujus primis diebus tot* 
haec regis erat solum Brittonibus inhabitata hie ad civitatcm perveniens Caerguerenseui 
sedera habuit cpiscopalem. — Rous' Boll. 

$ Dbgdale. 

I I 2 



252 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT 

The chosen retreat of the famous Gay. 

recluse ; who had, for his dwelling, a natural cavity in the 
rock ; and who was accustomed, for the daily duties of 
devotion, to repair to the neighbouring Oratory of St. 
Mary. Indeed, it appears, he was as much induced by 
the hope of receiving consolation from this hermit, as 
invited by the charms of the situation, when he determined 
to fix his abode, in the same place, for the remainder of 
his days. With this religious comforter he lived one 
year ; and survived him, two. During all this time, his 
wife, the fair Philis, in perfect ignorance of his retreat, 
and even of his existence, lived at the Castle ; and though 
he went himself, every day, to beg his bread from her 
hands,* yet, the extraordinary part of the story is, that he 
so completely disguised his person, and so steadily pre- 
served his secret, as never once to discover himself, nor to 
be discovered by her. At length, however, in his last 
sickness, a little while only before his death, he made 
himself known, by means of a ring, to her, " whom he 
loved most;" who instantly flew to his cave, and arrived 
just in time to exchange a parting adieu. By her hands, 
his dying eyes were closed ; and from her cares, attended 
by the Bishop, the clergy, and a long train of others, his 
remains received the rites of honourable and Christian 



" And daily came to beg my bread 

" Of Philts at my Casile gale 
" Not known unto my loving wife 

" Who daily mourned for her mate, 

f Till at the last 1 fell sore sicke 

" Yea sick so sore that I must die 
44 I sent to her a ringe of guide 

" By which she knew me presentlye. 

" Then she repairing to the Cave 

" Before that I gave up the Ghost 
u Herself closed up my dying eyes 

u My Philis fair whom I lov'd most,"-*- — Legend or Guv, 



OF GUY'S-CLIFF. 253 

A Chantry established by Richard Heauc/iamp. 

burial. He was interred within the cave, where he had 
lived, and where he had died. The fair Philis herself 
survived her long lost, late found husband, only fourteen 
days ; and was buried near him.* — Two other hermits, 
also, it is recorded, long after this time, retired, with the 
same religious views, to the same spot, which might now 
be considered as consecrated ground. Of these, one 
named Thomas de Lewis, lived in the reign of Edward 
III. ; and the other, named John Burry, lived in that of 
Henry IV. 

So greatly celebrated, on account of its natural 
beauties, and the fame of its ancient inhabitant, was Gulf's 
Cliff, in the time of Henry V. that, when this Monarch 
was at Warwick, he was induced to visit it ; and was so 
much struck, at once, with the charming scenery, and the 
religious air of the place, that he immediately resolved to 
establish here a chantry for two priest s.§ The death of 
this valiant and accomplished prince, which happened 
soon after, at the early age of 34, defeated his pious 
design ; yet, in the succeeding reign, the same design was 
adopted, and carried into effect,jj by Richard Beauchamp, 
Earl of Warwick. In 1422, the chantry was accordingly 
established, and two priests were appointed to celebrate 
mass daily, for the good estate of the Earl and his 
Countess, during their lives ; and, after their death, for 
the welfare of their souls, and that of all the faithful. — 
The manor of Ashorne was assigned by him for their 
maintenance, together with the rent of some lands at 



• J. Rots' Roll. 6 DUGDALE. 

|j •'' Ricus di Beli.ocampo conies Warr. he. Iste Capellam de Gibcliffc, sumptuose 
** reparavit el posbessionibus indotavit." — J. Rous' Roil. 



254 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT 

( i . urn II i I i.i ( l ■■ l | 1 1 —^1 

1 he Chapel rebuilt in the Reign of Henry VI. 

Whitnash and Wellesboumej to which, after his death, 
considerable additions were made by his will. By the 
same will, it was also directed that the Chapel > and other 
rooms, for the accommodation of the priests, should be 
rebuilt ; and this was accordingly done by his executors, 
about the year 1452, at the expence of ^183. These 
executors also covered in, and inclosed by walls of stone, 
the two adjoining wells, as they now appear. The statue 
of Guy, which still remains in the Chapel, it seems, was 
erected by the Earl himself, in his life time.* 

The first priests, who officiated in the newly- 
instituted Chantry were William Berks well, afterwards 
Dean of the Collegiate Church at Warwick, and Richard 
Bevan. Of the succeeding priests, the names of several 
are still left upon record; and amongst these stands one 
of distinguished fame, John Rous, the celebrated anti- 
quary — -to whose memory, the following short biographical 
notice is justly due in a work, which owes to him so many 
important obligations, and in the account of a place, with 
which his name is so intimately associated. 

John Rous was descended from the Rouses of 
BrinMow, according to Dugdale ; but, according to 
Leland, from the Rouses of Ragley, near Alcester. He 
was the son of Geoffrey Rous ; was born at Warwick, 
where he received the first part of his education ; and, 
for the completion of it, afterwards went to Oxford. 
In that celebrated University, he highly distinguished 
himself, by his intense application to his studies, and 
by his great and extensive erudition. Amongst other 



• Leland says,*' Eaule Richard sett up there an Image of E. Guroo, Gjant 
'• like." — See also Dugdalt. 



OF GUYS-CLIFF. 255 

Biographical Sketch of John Rous. 

branches of knowledge in which he excelled, " he was 
" learned," says Leland, " in the mathesi," and was " a 
" great histriographer." But his principal attention was 
directed to antiquarian researches, relative to the history 
of his country, and especially that of his native county. — - 
He obtained access to many valuable manuscripts, depo- 
sited in the monasteries of England and Wales ; which, at 
the Dissolution, were either lost or destroyed. When he 
left the University, he became one of the Chantry priests 
of Guys Cliff Chapel ; and, in that delightful retirement, 
composed many learned works, * one of which, Chroni- 
cum de Regibus Anglice, written in barbarous Latin, has 
been published. But most of his other works are lost. 
One, hoAvever, a Roll of the Earls of Warwick, is still 
preserved in M. S. which contains portraitures of the 
Earls, \\ drawn by himself, accompanied by short biogra- 
phical sketches of each. His own portrait is placed at 
the end. " The life of Richard Beauchamp," written 
by him, is also preserved, amongst Cotton's M. S. S.^ 
in the British Museum ; in which are more than fifty 
drawings, representing the principal events of his life. So 
great was his love of knowledge, and his desire to promote 
the diffusion of it, that he erected a Library over the 
south porch of St. Mary's Church, Warwick, and fur- 



* The Works of J. Rous were also — 

Antiqnitates Warwici. 

De Episcopis Wigomiae. 

Vctustates Clivi Gnidonici. 

De Comitibus Warwicemibus. 

De Academiis Britaimitis. 

Contra Historiolara Cantabrigiensein. 

Chronicon Wurwicense. 
|l These have been faithfully copied and engraved by Smith, in the second volume 
of his '< HordLO-an^d'Cunnan" and the original description of each drawing is al>o 
orintcd, § Jeuws E. IV. 



256 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT 

" "■ ' "' .'■' ' ' " ' ' "' ' ■ " ' ' .. ■■ ",u , ,, .,:,., " „ ' 'j,! T 

Guy s-Cliff granted to Sir 2\ Flammock. 

nished it with books ; of which the whole are now lost. 
He was born in the reign of Edward IV. died in that 
of Henry VII. in the year 1491 ; and was buried in 
St. Marys Churchy where once was an inscription to his 
memory, long since destroyed. 

By a survey, taken in the reign of Henry VIII. 
the lands belonging to the Chapel of Guy's Cliff, were 
certified to be worth ^19. 10s. 6d.; which, together with 
all its buildings and appurtenances, were granted, by royal 
license, 1st of Edward VI. to Sir Andrew Flammock, 
Knight ; in whose family it continued, till, in the reign of 
Queen Elizabeth, it was purchased by William Hudson, 
Esq. an eminent Surgeon of Kenilworth. On the mar- 
riage of his daughter to Sir Thomas Beaufoy, Knight, 
the estate passed into that family. It became afterwards 
the property of Mr. Edwards, of Kenilworth ; and, from 
his heirs, it was purchased by the late Samuel Great- 
heed, Esq. by whom nearly the whole of the present 
edifice was built, and who greatly improved and adorned 
the surrounding pleasure grounds. On his decease, in 
1765, it descended to his son, Bertie Greatheed, Esq. 
the present possessor. 

The description of this delightful place, given by 
Leland, so long ago as the reign of Henry VIII. is, in 
itself, a beautiful and spirited sketch ; and as it was, no 
doubt, a faithful representation of its state at that time, 
go it exhibits a picture, equally correct, of what it still 
remains. te It is the abode of pleasure," says that learned 
antiquary, " a place delightful to the Muses. There are 
(i natural cavities in the rocks; small, but shady groves ; 
iC clear and chrystal streams ; flowery meadows, mossy 
" caves, a gentle murmuring river, running among the 



OF GUYS-CLIFF. 257 

Description of the Place, by Le/and, Camden, Fuller, Dugdale, &c. 

M l I I 11 ii 1 ■ ii i 1 IB 

€e rocks ; and, to crown all, solitude and quiet, friendly in 
** so high a degree to the Muses." — Camden, in the later 
edition of his Britannia, published about 1600, speaks 
of the same place concisely, yet expressively, in the fol- 
lowing words, quae ipsa sedes est amcenitatis — which is the 
seat itself of pleasantness. — Fuller, in his History of the 
Worthies, written about 1662, whose language, though 
often quaint, is generally forcible, describes it as iC a most 
" delicious place ; having a steep rock, full of caves, 
" washed at the bottom by a chrystal stream, besides 
" many clear streams in the sides thereof; all overspread 
" with a shady grove ; so that an ordinary fancy may 
" here find to itself a Helicon and a Parnassus." — And 
Dugdale, who published the Antiquities qf Warwickshire 
in 1606, after reciting the description of Leland, gives 
his own in the following words — " a place that is of so 
great delight, in respect of the river gliding below the 
rocks, the dry and wholesome situation, and the fair 
" groves of lofty elms overshadowing it, that to one, who 
" desires a retired life, either for devotion or study, the 
" like is hardly to be found." 

Of this admired place the more recent notices are 
numerous ; but we shall only offer to our readers the fol- 
lowing, from Warner's Northern Tour, p. 235. " Two 
* miles before we reached Warwick, the celebrated place 
" of Mr. Greatheed attracted us to its pleasing and pic- 
" turesciue scenery — where, a beautiful combination of 
u wood, rock, and wood, produces such a necromantic 
" effect, as almost leads one to credit the tales of tradi- 
" tion— which make this place the retreat of the renowned 
" Guy, Earl qf Warwick, when he dedicated his last 
" years to repose and prayer." 

K K 






258 DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT 



Approach to Guys-Cliff. 



CHAP. XXVI. 



SDegcriptitoe Account of <*5up'$k€Iiff. 

Court-Yard— Principal Front — the Chapel — the Stables — Interior of- 
the House— -fine Collection of Paintings — Entrance Hall — several 
Portraits — Hannibal's Dream — Murder of Becket r fyc. — Dining Room 
—large Picture of St. Jerome — a Shylock — Portrait of Bonaparte — 
other Portraits — King Lear — Diogenes — Atahualpa — Lady Macbeth — 
Little Drawing Room— Portrait of Maximilian — View of Venice — - 
Views of Naples — the Annunciation — Landseape y by Ruysdale — the Salu- 
tation — various Portraits — Great Drawing Room — Madonna — View 
of Dort — on the Scheldt — Potiphar's Wife and Joseph — The Library — 
Portrait of a young Artist T by himself — Cave of Despair — The 
Chapel — Statue of Guy — Walk Round the Grounds — the Avenue- 
Guy's Well — Guy's Cave — the Rocks— the Terrace. 



j^FTER the historical details, given in the preceding- 
chapter, we shall now proceed to lay before our readers, 
the following short descriptive account of Guy's- Cliff. 

The approach to this delightful place, from the 
Coventry Road, is carried along the edge of open and 
extensive grounds, by the side of shady plantations, ter- 
minated by a lofty arch of stone, through which appears 
to view — 

THE COURT YARD. 

Even here the curious observer will find inter- 
esting objects of attention, as the whole is hewn out of 
the solid rock. — Underneath are subterraneous passages 



OF GUYS-CLIFF. 259 

Court Yard — Principal Front — Chapel. 

and cellars — from one of which the influence of the ex- 
ternal atmosphere is so completely excluded, that the 
temperature is found, in the hottest and coldest days of 
the year, to vary only a single degree. — In front, under a 
high archway, are the principal Stables, entirely formed 
in the rock ; as are other Stables, and convenient places 
of shelter, on the right. One of these excavations is cut 
so deeply, as almost to penetrate through the rock, to an 
opening on the opposite side. This was intended to form 
a second entrance, into the Court ; but the design was 
afterwards relinquished. Above, appear, on the summit 
and higher parts of the rock, trees and shrubs, whose 
spreading branches throw their dark shades over this 
singularly striking and secluded spot.* 

On the left, seated on the solid rock, in which 
some of its lower apartments are formed, stands the 
Mansion, which here shews its principal front, substan- 
tially built of stone, exhibiting a handsome modern ap- 
pearance. Beyond, on the same side, is the ancient 
Chapel, with its embattled tower and Gothic windows, 
originally built in the reign of Henry VI. and still kept 
in a state of good repair. 

INTERIOR OF THE HOUSE. 

This consists of numerous apartments, formed 
more for use than shew, agreeably to the prevailing taste 
of our private English gentlemen. Some of those, how- 
ever, which are open to public inspection, are not only 
commodious, but handsome. Yet, the principal, and the 
powerful attraction, is a Collection of Paintings, of extra- 
ordinary merit and interest, some originals, others copies 

* See a pleading view of this Court, in the Beauties of England and Wales, 
K K 2 



26o DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT 



Busts of several of the Family — of Lord Lindsey. 



from the first masters — all the production of the only son 
of the present possessor of Guy's Cliff— whose talents 
displayed a singular instance of premature genius — and 
who, at the early age of 22, to the inexpressible grief of 
all who had the happiness to know him, was lost to his 
friends, to his country, and the world. He died Oct. 8, 
1804, at Vicenza, in Italy. There are, besides, some 
valuable paintings, by artists of highest fame : — of all 
which, we proceed to give some account. 

ENTRANCE HALL. 

This apartment is of good dimensions, and the 
ceilings and side walls are richly ornamented in plas- 
ter work. 

Here are several fine pieces of statuary. On 
the left is a Venus de Medici, a cast from the original.— 
Before, in two recesses, are the Florence Faun and Apollo. 
— On each side of the doors, are busts of Samuel Great- 
heed, Esq. and his First Lady; and above, is a bust 
of Mrs. Siddons. 

Over the fire-place, in mezzo-relievo, is a bust of 
Robert Bertie, Earl of Lindsey, an able and valiant 
military commander; who, in the reign of Elizabeth, 
highly distinguished himself at the taking of Cadiz, and 
on other important occasions ; and who, on the breaking 
out of the Civil War, was appointed General of the King's 
forces ; and was mortally wounded at the battle of Edge- 
Mill, l642. It was one of his posterity, Robert, who in 
the reign of George I, was created Duke of Ancaster ; 
and whose descendant, Peregrine Bertie, Duke of 
Ancaster, was the maternal grandfather of the present 
possessor of Guys-Ciiff\ 



OF GUYS-CLIFF. 261 

The. Incantation — Sketch of the Story of Dryope. 

»j ■ L =ss 

VESTIBULE. 

A circuitous passage conducts from the Entrance 
Hall to this apartment — which is hung round with nume- 
rous paintings — some, indeed, merely unfinished sketches 
— all the production of the young lamented artist — once 
the heir of the mansion they are now destined to adorn. 

On one side — are three portraits of Friends of the 
Family — and a small picture called the Incantation — of 
which the subject taken from Tasso's Jerusalem delivered, 
B. XIII. is as follows ; — TsMeno, the Pagan sorcerer 
during the siege of the Holy City, repairs at midnight, to 
a neighbouring wood, whence the Christian besiegers 
procured supplies of timber, for the construction of war- 
like engines. Here, standing bare-footed, in the midst of 
his magic circle, and waving his wand, he calls up, by his 
powerful spells, certain demoniacal attendants, to whom 
he commits the defence of the wood against all intruders ; 
and thus for a time obstructs, though unable finally to 
prevent, the success of the siege. 

On the opposite side — in the centre — Sketch op 
the Story of Dryope from Ovid — She was the daugh- 
ter of Eurytus, and wife of Andrjemon ; coming to a 
lake sacred to the Nymphs, in order to amuse her child, 
who was carried in her arms, she plucked off the bou^h 
of a Lotus Tree. It happened that the nymph Lotes 
had been transformed into this very Lotus; and as 
Dryope had thus offered violence to the sacred tree, for 
a punishment, she herself was condemned to grow to 
the trunk of it.* 

* Ovid's Metam, Lib. IX, 1.325, &c. 



262 DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT 

f— — — — — — — I II II ■■■■■■i'M—— — — — — I— I— W 

Hannibal 's Dream — Murder of Becket. 

On the left — Hannibal's Dream of an Angel, 
sent by Jupiter, to conduct him into Italy. — Strictly 
enjoined to follow his celestial guide, without looking on 
either side, or behind; at first, Hannibal fearfully obeyed. 
But at length, his curiosity prevailed over his apprehen- 
sions, and he looked back ! — when he saw a serpent of 
enormous size, moving on, and destroying trees, bushes, 
and every thing that opposed its progress. He asked what 
the prodigy meant ? — and was answered, the devastation of 
Italy — but, at the same time, was charged to enquire no 
farther — sineret que fata in occulta esse,* 

On the right — Murder of Thomas a Becket— 
William de Tracey, one of the conspirators, entering 
the Cathedral, cried out — " Where is that traitor ?" — 
<c Where is the Archbishop ?" — " Here am 1 1* replied 
Becket, with the greatest firmness and dignity, u an 
" Archbishop, but no traitor !" — " Fly !" cried the con- 
spirator, " or you are a dead man r — " I will never fly," 
returned the dauntless Becket. — " Then you are my 
* c prisoner," exclaimed De Tracy, catching hold of his 
robe, " come along with me !" — But Becket, resisting, 
seized him by the helmet, and shook him so violently, as 
almost threw him down. The enraged assassin then 
aimed a stroke with his sword — which was, however, 
received by one Grim, a Priest, who stood near. At that 
instant, the other conspirators entered — advancing from 
behind — and the bloody tragedy speedily closed. 

The four busts in this Hall are — Mr. John 
Kemble— Mr. C. Kemble — Mrs. Siddons — Mrs. Sid- 
dons' daughter — modelled by that celebrated actress. 

• Livy, Lib. XXI. C. 28, ad fin. 



OF GUY'S-CLIFF. 263 



Copy of St. Jerome, by Corregio. 



DINING-ROOM. 

This is a handsome apartment — and ornamented 
with a collection of pictures — which, hy their intrinsic 
merit, are calculated to excite high admiration ; and be- 
come doubly interesting from a recollection of the artist. 
They are exclusively the production of that youthful 
pencil, which, while it traced the suggestions of enthu- 
siastic fancy, never overstepped the modesty of nature ; 
and, in the moments of ardent genius, was still guided 
by sober feeling, and that knowledge of practical effect— 
which is usually the fruit of long experience in the art ; 
but the perception of which seemed, in this instance, to 
be intuitive. 

Of these, the first, in magnitude of size, and 
grandeur of effect, is a copy from one of the most cele- 
brated of all the works of Corregio. The original was 
formerly at Parma, near which that great artist was 
born ; but the city was barbarously despoiled of it, during 
the wars of the French Revolution. It is now in the 
Louvre at Paris. The subject is — The Infant Savior — * 
acknowledging a prophecy of himself, pointed out by an 
Angel. St. Jerome, from whom the picture is named — 
a Father of the fourth century, famous for his interpre- 
tation of Scripture — is, by an anachronism not unusual 
with painters, represented as holding the sacred volume ; 
and the groupe is completed by a Madonna, St. Jolxn^ 
and Mary Magdalene, kneeling and embracing the foot 
of the Savior. Of the latter figure, the exquisite beauty 
and grace are said to be unrivalled in modern art. The 
whole is considered, as one of the finest examples of 
the chiaroscuro — a style, which Corregio himself first 
completely established, and in which he pre-eminently 



264 DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT 

A Shylock — Portrait of Buonaparte. 

excelled. — The copy is acknowledged, by all competent 
judges, to be a wonderful effort of the early powers that 
produced it. 

Next to this, is a very fine picture — an original — 
displaying certainly the genius of the artist, in one of its 
higher flights — perhaps even, in its very highest. It is 
an admirable Shylock, in which the cool determined 
vengeance of the Jew is powerfully depicted. He is in 
the act of pointing with his knife to the seal of his bond ; 
and, in answer to all entreaties, and to all reproaches, 
exclaiming 1 — 



" Till thou can'st rail this seal from off my bond, 
"Thou but offend'st thy lungs to talk so loud." 



A portrait of Buonaparte next succeeds, half- 
length — considered as one of the most correct likenesses 
of him in existence. As a proof, it is said, the mother 
of Buonaparte, on seeing it, was forcibly struck with 
its resemblance, and declared it to be the strongest she 
had ever seen of her son. Yet the only opportunity of 
seeing the extraordinary original, and of taking the sketch, 
was at the public audiences of 1803. The forehead is 
broad and prominent, the cheeks spare and sallow ; and, 
in the air and features, little trace appears, either of grace 
or dignity, Yet a certain indescribable look of deep 
penetration and determined resolution, betokens some- 
thing of the workings within of that vast and mighty 
mind, which, for so long a period of time — now hap- 
pily terminated ! — filled the civilized world, from one 
extremity to the other, with astonishment, disquietude, 
and dismay. 



OF GUYS-CLIFF. 265 

King Lear — Family Portraits — Diogenes. 

The centre-piece, on the same side, is a fine pic- 
ture of — King Lear and his Daughter — in which are 
introduced the Physician and the faithful Kent — an 
original. The struggling emotions of joyful surprise at 
meeting his daughter, and of keen-felt shame at the recol- 
lection of his own groundless displeasure against her, are 
strongly marked in the countenance of the poor, old, for ; 
saken, half-crazed monarch, who is speaking thus — 



" do not laugh at me! 

" For, as I am a man, I think this lady 
. " To be my child, Cordelia." 

Next, is a portrait, half-length, in a mantle, of the 
present Possessor of Guy's- Cliff. 

It is succeeded hy another portrait, half-length, 
of his maternal uncle — Brownlow Bertie, Fifth Duke 
of Ancaster — on whose decease in 1809, at the advanced 
age of 79> the title became extinct. 

Above the door, right of the side-board, is a third 
family portrait — Richard Greatheed, Esgl. — brother of 
the present Mrs. Greatheed. 

Above the door, left of the side-board, is a copy of 
a picture of — Spagnoletto, in the Dresden Gallery — 
who, though born in Spain, was educated under the great- 
est masters in Italy. It is a portrait of himself in the 
character of Diogenes, searching for an honest man. 
Being observed, with a lighted lanthorn, at noon-day, in 
the public streets, as the story tells, looking about, as if 
searching for something, he was asked " what he was 
seeking ?" — " an honest man !" replied the Cynic. 



fl66 DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT 

Prince of Peru discovering Pizarro's Ignorance — Macbeth. 

r - r il ■ ■■- ■ "I n ■-■it ■ n n - i :■ 

Between tlie window and door, is a small, but 
interesting picture, an original, of which the subject is — 
Atahualpa, Prince of Peru, discovering PrzARRO*s 

IGNORANCE OF THE ART OF READING AND WRITING. 

In order to convince himself of the reality of that art^ 
which, more than all besides, struck him with astonish- 
ment, the Peruvian prince caused a Spanish word to be- 
written on his own thumb nail, which, on presenting it to 
the other Spaniards, they easily read and pronounced. 
But Pizarro, totally uneducated, on being requested to 
read it, was obliged to confess his inability. — The disdain- 
ful surprise of the prince, and the extreme mortification 
of the Spanish chiefs at this discovery, are well conceived^ 
and forcibly expressed. 

Between the windows — is an admirable picture — 
an original— -of Lady Macbeth and her Husband. — 
The point of time is immediately after the murder of 
Duncan, in his chamber, by the treacherous Macbeth— 
who, being desired to return to the scene of horrors, and 
to place the blood-stained daggers, by the side of the two 
grooms, sleeping near their royal master, in order to throw 
upon them the foul suspicion — demurs and declines — 
when Lady Macbeth, snatching the weapons from his 
hands, with a look of desperate courage, mingled with 
contempt for her husband's want of it, cries out — - 

'* Infirm of purpose ! 

** Give me the daggers f * 

Over the east door — portrait of Master G. Gray* 

little drawing room. 
In this apartment are the following paintings : — 



OF GUVS-CLIFF. 267 

i 

Portrait of Maximilian — View of Venice — of Naples. 

Over the mantle-piece — a portrait of — Maxi- 
milian, Emperor of Germany — grandfather of Charles 
V.— half-length, by Holbein, painted on wood, as are 
most of the portraits of that great master. This emperor, 
who was also a scholar and a poet, laid the foundation of 
the House of Austria, when he received in marriage., the 
heiress of the House of Burgundy. He formed many- 
great projects most of which failed for want of money ; 
hence he was called Pocodenario, or Lack Money. He 
died 1519. — Below this, is a View of Venice — amazingly 
fine — by Canaletto, the Venetian painter. — The transpa- 
rency in the aerial perspective is singularly striking. — 
Above, on the right — A View of Naples — and on the 
left, another View of Naples. — Below, on the right — » 
Annunciation of the Savior's Birth to the Shep- 
herds — by Bassano, the Italian painter — whose style 
is accounted in a high degree, natural, simple, and, 
pleasing ; and whose colours, especially the green, are 
said to have a brilliancy peculiar to himself. — Below, 
on the left, is a fine Landscape — by Ruysdale. — The 
ground is agreeably broken, the sky beautifully clear, 
the trees delicately handled, and every part has the look 
of real nature. 

On the east side of this room, are the following 
portraits — above — Samuel Greatheed, Esgl. — Mrs. 
Greatheed. — Below — Lady Mary Greatheed — Rev. 
J. H. Williams — by Artaud. — Over the door — A small 
Family Portrait. 

Opposite the fire-place — above — Two Views of 
Dover. — Below — A Landscape. — Portrait of — A Lady 
— by Sir P. Lely. 

L L 2 



268 DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT 

The Salutation — Portrait of the Earl of Lindsey — Madonna. 

In the Recess — Sketch of Buonaparte— Dow- 
ager Duchess of Ancaster. 

On the west side of the room—- Salutation of 
the Virgin — by a scholar of Reubens. — Portrait of the 
present Earl of Lindsey — by Sir Joshua Reynolds. 

great drawing room. 

This is an elegant apartment; of which not the 
least of the attractions is the somewhat confined, but 
enchanting prospect, opening to view from its circular 
windows. — Looking downward, the great depth of the 
rock strikingly appears. The river winding round it, 
and washing its foundation — the moving water-mill — 
the foaming cascade — the wooden bridge— the flourish- 
ing plantations, on the one side — and the fertile meads 
on the other, enlivened with cattle and sheep, feeding or 
reposing — and, in the more distant view, Gaveston Hill, 
on the left, where the dissolute favorite of Edward II. 
was beheaded — the new built church of Wootton in front, 
and the little recluse village of Milverton, on the right, 
with its rustic church almost buried in the shade of trees — 
present altogether, a pleasingly \ ied and beautiful land- 
scape, not often exceeded. 

In this room are the following paintings : — over 
the mantle-piece — Madonna and Child — a copy from a 
painting of Raphael, in the Gallery at Dresden. — In the 
original, the Virgin, it is said, looks with that " more than 
mortal dignity," and the infant innocence of the child has 
mingled with it, that u something divine," by which the 
greatest of painters knew how to excite the astonishment 
and awe of every beholder. This copy was taken by 
Artaud, in the best style of that artist. 



OF GUY'S-CLIFF. 269 



View of Dort — on the Scheldt — Joseph and Potiphars Wife. 



Right hand of the fire-place — View of Dort — . 
by Van Goyen — whose pencil is surprisingly light and 
spirited, and whose pictures please from the charming 
facility of touch. This painting, like most of those of his 
best time, is marked with his name and date of the year. 
— Leftside — View on the Scheldt, with Antwerp in 
the distance — by Albert Cuyp — amazingly fine — the 
harmony and soft repose of this piece are wonderful. — 
Cuyp, a native of Dort, was an artist of extraordinary 
merit. He acquired the chaste and exquisite style, for 
which he is so highly admired, by a close and vigilant 
attention to nature, under all the vicissitudes of the 
atmosphere, and of the seasons. In his aerial tints, it is 
thought no painter ever surpassed him. His pictures are 
more frequently met with in England than in any other 
country. 

Upper end of the room — is a large portrait, three 
quarters length — of Peregrine, Second Duke of An- 
caster — in his robes, and with his wand of office^ as 
Lord Great Chamberlain of England. 

Over the door — Potiphar's Wife endeavouring 
to detain Joseph — from a painting at Dresden, by Carlo 
Clgnani. Of the original painting, the composition is 
adjudged to be extremely masterly; full of fire, taste, 
and excellent expression ; the heads fine, the colouring 
good, the flesh perfect nature, and the effect of the whole 
powerfully striking. The copy was taken by Monge ; 
and of a production so highly finished, surely it is not too 
much to say, that it can be no discredit to its great 
original. 



270 DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT 

Portrait of a Young Artist, by himself. 
LIBRARY* 

This apartment contains a collection of Books, not 
large, but choice. — Its most interesting ornament, how- 
ever, is another admirable production of the pencil, which 
the same youthful and much-regretted artist, has added 
to the many paintings already enumerated, in — a Portrait 
of Himself. — It was taken about a year before the de- 
plorable event, which ended for ever all the expectations 
so early and so rich a display of talent naturally excited. 
It is said to be a striking representation, not merely of 
the external form and features, but of the animating spirit 
that stirred within. What a precious bequest! — to its 
possessor how invaluable ! — who might say, as was said 
of one of Raphael's portraits, by one of Raphael's 
friends, " lidc consoler, hngos decipioque dies.' 1 

staircase. 

But the most extraordinary effort, perhaps, of the 
same youthful genius, is yet to be noticed. It is a picture 
of very large size, suspended on the side of a Staircase, 
entitled — the Cave of Despair — from the Fairy Queen 
of Spencer, Book I. Cant. IX.* With wonderful truth 
and force has the painter, here, given form and colour to 
the terrific conceptions of the poet. The cave itself, 
formed by craggy upright cliffs, — doleful, dark, and 
dreary — with all its horrible accompaniments — the stunted 
and blasted trees — the screeching owl — the scattered 
bones — the prostrate and still bleeding corse of one 
wretched Knight, urged on by Despair to self-destruction 
* — whilst another, the bare-head Knight, once half per- 
suaded, and still carrying on his neck the instrument of 

* Appendix, No. 10. 



OF GUYS-CLIFF. 271 

The Chapel — Statue of Guy. 

his intended violence — now terror-struck at his own guilty 
purpose — is ready to start away — but held fast by a third, 
the Red Cross Knight, his more intrepid companion — and 
above all, the figure of Despair himself, with hollow eyes, 
matted hair, raw-boned cheeks, and wan complexion, 
strongly depicting the deep, dull, dead dejection of his 
inmost soul — presents, in the whole, a picture, which it is 
impossible to behold without shudderings of horror ; and 
from which the eye, at almost every instant, is glad to 
turn away, for necessary relief. 

THE CHAPEL. 

Returning, through the Entrance Hall into the 
Court Yard, the next object of attention is the Chapel. 
This, together with the apartments under it, was originally 
built in the reign of Henry VI. about 400 years ago, as 
already mentioned, and was dedicated to St. Mary Mag- 
dalene. The rooms intended for the habitation of the 
priests, remain in their original state ; but the body and 
tower of the Chapel were repaired by the late Mr. Great- 
heed. The interior is still in a good state of preservation, 
though not fitted up, or used, as a place of worship. — 
The Statue of Guy, erected about the time above-men- 
tioned, measuring nine feet in heighth, is now greatly 
mutilated, though traces of the gilding and other embel- 
lishments, are still to be seen. The figure is evidently m 
the attitude of drawing the sword, though the right hand 
is gone, and must have been so, even before the time of 
Dugdale, as appears from the print in his work, which 
is erroneously given with the right hand extended. We 
have been favored with an elegant Latin inscription, 
intended for this statue, and also with a second, in- 
tended for the Chapel itself, from the pen of one of the 



2?2 DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT 

Walk through, the Pleasure Grounds — Guy's Well. 

greatest scholars of the age, which will be found in the 
Appendix.* 

i 

WALK THROUGH THE PLEASURE GROUNDS. 

This truly delightful walk usually commences 
from the Blackrnoor Green — from the edge of which, over 
a low wall, the eye looks down on the abrupt descent of 
the rocks, to the depth of forty feet below — and thence 
wanders, with delight, over a rich and varied landscape, 
stretched before it — formed by a striking combination of 
wood and water, of meadows and gently-swelling grounds 
— with a mill and a bridge, in the nearer view — a cottage, 
or two, more in the distance — sheep and cattle, grouped 
or scattered about — producing the finest possible effect of 
beautiful rural scenery. The mill, here, full in view, 
deserves notice, not only as a pleasing object, but also on 
account of its great antiquity ; since, as Dugdale notices, 
it was in being even at the period of the Norman 
Conquest.^ 

Passing under the venerable shade of a noble 
avenue, formed by rows of aged and lofty firs — a gentle 
descent conducts to Guys Well — at which, according to 
popular story, that religious Champion was accustomed to 
slake his daily thirst. By order of Richard Beauchamp, 
Earl of Warwick, " the silver wells in the meadows," 
says Leland, " were inclosed with pure white sleek 
* c stones, like marble, and a pretty house, erected like a 
" cage, one end only open, to keep comers from the 
" rain." This was done in the time of Henry VI. and 



* Appendix, No. 11. 
§ It is mentioned in Doomsday Book. 



OF GUYS-CLIFF. 273 

Gays Cave — Fair P 'hi 1 1 'is' 's Walk. 

it remains still, as it was then left. The water, issuing 
from two circular apertures, is beautifully clear. It is 
remarkable, that the side of the well, opposite the en- 
trance, is covered with moss, which, below the surface of 
the water, is petrified ; but, in the obscurer parts, there 
is neither moss nor petrifaction — a striking instance of 
the effect of light upon the growth of vegetables. 

From Guy's Well> the walk conducts under that 
part of the rock, on the perpendicular edge of which the 
mansion is seated, which here rises to view in a striking 
manner, and would afford, from many points, excellent 
subjects for the pencil. Here, the overhanging ivy is 
frequently seen, richly cloathing the sides of the rock — in 
which are several chambers, or excavations, artificially 
formed. — The Chapel next appears, with the apartments 
under it, anciently the habitation of the Chantry Priests, 
still remaining entire and unaltered; and immediately 
beyond is Guy's Cave ; 

" Where, with his hands, he hewed a house, 
" Out of a craggy rock of stone : 
" And lived, like a Palmer poor, 
" Within that house, alone." 

Yet it has all the appearance of being a natural 
cavity. The upper part, at least, exhibits no marks of the 
chisel ; though, evidently, the lower part is hewn out of 
the rock, and bears the appearance of a grave ; in which, 
as tradition tells, the mighty warrior was interred. On 
the side of this cavern is an inscription, in Saxon charac- 
ters, no longer legible ; though a few single letters may 
yet 'be traced. Above, is the walk, still known by the 
name of Fair PhilUss Walk; — who, according to the 

m M 



274 DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT 

i ■ i i ■ hi i in a ii 

Fine Appearance of the Rocks, §c. 

legendary tale, was here accustomed to repair, whilst her 
husband, though unknown to her as such, was engaged 
in his devotion, underneath. 

Pursuing the course of the walk — the rocks now 
assume a bolder and more romantic appearance ; and 
from their towering heighth, the vast variety in their 
form and colour, and the great diversity of trees, shrubs, 
and creeping plants, which every where fix their roots, 
and spread and throw their branches, the scene becomes 
finely picturesque — approaching to the grander views 
of nature. Whilst, on the opposite side,, appear, in 
pleasing contrast, the winding course of the gently flowing 
river, and the soft fertility of the meadows, shut in by a 
small circuit of rising and highly cultivated grounds. In 
no part is the fascination of Guy's-Clljf more strongly felt 
than here ; and, at every successive turn and step, some 
new attraction will meet and strike the admiring eye. 

Ascending from the lower walk — a winding path^ 
carried through a shady plantation, conducts to the sum^ 
mit of the rock — whence, from its perpendicular edge, 
looking over a low wall, the downward view to the depths 
of almost 60 feet will again surprise — and the surround- 
ing landscape, with all its pleasing variety, seen from a 
new point, again delight the eye. 

From this spot, passing towards the terrace — the 
tower of St. Mary's church, first opens strikingly to 
view — and, next, those of the venerable Castle, and the 
spire of St. Nicholas, are successively disclosed, ascending 
above the summit of stately spreading trees and groves — 
forming one of those highly picturesque and beautiful 



OF GUYS-CLIFF. 275 

1 * ■ ' ' 1 . - .a 

View from the Terrace. 

prospects,, which we have already had occasion to notice.* 
— From the terrace, a short downward path soon brings 
to its termination — near the arch-way entrance— -this truly 
enchanting walk^ — to which may well be applied, what 
was said of it, more than a century ago, by one of the 
older writers, before quoted — u a most delicious place 
this," says Fuller, " so that a man, in travelling many 
miles, cannot meet so much astonishing variety as this 
one furlong doth afford." 



Some of the striking features of the interesting 
and romantic scenery of Gity's-Cliff*, are pleasingly no- 
ticed in the following lines of I ago : — ? 

« . , —Here 



" The tranquil scene lulls the tumultuous breast 
" To sweet composure. Here the gliding stream 
" That winds its wat'ry path in many a maze, 
*' As loth to leave th' enchanted spot, invites 
" To moralize on fleeting time, and life, 
" With all its treach'rous sweet3, and fading joys, 
*' In emblem shewn, by many a short lived flow'r, 
" That on its margin smiles, and smiling falls 
" To join its parent earth. Here let me delve, 
" Near thine,} my chamber, in the peaceful rock, 
" And think no more of gilded palaces, 
" And luxury of sense. From the till'd glebe 
*' Or ever teeming brook, my frugal meal 
" I'll gain, and slake my thirst at yonder spring. 
" Like thee, I'll climb the steep, and mark the scene, 
" How fair! how passing fair! in grateful strain! 
44 Singing the praises of creative love." 



• See page 69. * C,UY * 

M M 2 



276 HISTORY OF 



Derivation of the Name. 



CHAP. XXVII. 



ipijStorp of Eeamington $tior& 

Derivation of the Name — anciently the Possession of TurchiU de Warwick — of 
Roger de Montgomery — of the Bishop of Chester — of Geoffrey de Clinton — 
of Gilbert de Nutricius — of the Priors of Kenikvorth — of Ambrose Dudley 
— Church antiently a Chapel, belonging to Wootton — Salt Springs noticed 
by Camden — and other early Writers — their Nature investigated by Guidot 
< — and other early Medical Enquirers — their Medical Virtues noticed and 
recommended by Dr. Kerr — First Baths erected— Second Baths erected — . 
Analysis of the Water, by Dr. Lambe — Rise of the Public Opinion in its 
Favor — Progress of the Public Opinion — Rapid Change of Leamington, 
from an obscure Village to a celebrated Watering Place. 



JLEAMINGTON PRIORS, situated two miles from 
Warwick, on the road to Southam and Daventry, derives 
the first part of its name, from the river Learn, which flows 
through it ; and the second, from the circumstance of its 
having formerly belonged to the Priors of Kenilworth. — 
Still more anciently, it appears to have been part of the 
vast possessions of Turchill, the last and the most 
powerful of all the Earls of Warwick of the Saxon Line. 
About that time, according to Domesday Booh, it was two 
hides in extent, equal to about two hundred acres of land. 
It was then valued at ^4 ; and two mills are expressly 
mentioned, as standing within its precincts. 

After the Conquest, it was the natural policy of 
William I. to depress the Saxon, and to enrich and exalt 
the Norman Barons. Turchill himself, indeed, who 



LEAMINGTON PRIORS. 27; 

Successive Proprietors of the Estate. 

had given no active support to Harold, was permitted to 
remain in the undisturbed enjoyment of almost all his 
immense possessions. But his son, less favoured, was 
despoiled of many of his paternal estates ; and, among 
these, of Leamington, which was immediately granted to 
Roger de Montgomery, a Norman Baron, high in the 
favor of his Sovereign, who was afterwards created Earl 
of Shrewsbury. Roger was succeeded, in his title and 
estates, by his eldest son Hugh ; and, upon his death, in 
the reign of William Rufus, by his second son, Robert, 
usually called De Belesmo, from the name of a Castle, 
which belonged to him. This nobleman, on the accession 
of Henry I. took a decided part against him, in favor of 
Robert, Duke of Normandy, who was the true heir to 
the Crown ; and even prepared to support his pretensions 
by force of arms. He was, in consequence, declared a 
traitor ; and soon found himself so vigorously attacked, 
that he was obliged to retire, first from his own domains, 
and afterwards from the kingdom. All his possessions 
in England were immediately confiscated, and bestowed 
upon others ; and, of these, Leamington was granted to 
the Bishop of Lichfield and Coventry, who was then 
designated, from the place of his residence, Bishop of 
Chester* 

From this Bishop, within no long time, Leam- 
ington passed into the possession of Geoffrey de 
Clinton, celebrated as the founder, both of the Castle 
and the Priory of Kenilworth ; and by him, it was trans- 
ferred to Gilbert Nutricius, of Warwick, and his heirs, 
who held it, by the service of half a Knight's fee. — 

* Dugda'e, p. 255. 



s;8 HISTORY OF 

The Church anciently a Chapel belonging to Wootton. 

Whether this grant was forcibly resumed, or whether the 
estate was re-purchased, is uncertain ; but, it appears that 
it soon reverted to its former possessor ; and that, by his 
son, Geoffrey de Clinton, about the year 11 66, it was 
given, at the same time with a considerable number of 
other estates, to the Canon and the Priors of Kenilworth. 
In the possession of that religious fraternity, one of the 
wealthiest in the kingdom, it continued, without interrup- 
tion, till the period so fatal to all monastic institutions, 
in the reign of Henry VIII. ; when it was seized by the 
Crown ; and was retained by it, till, in the 6th of Queen 
Elizabeth, it was granted to Ambrose Dudley, Earl of 
Warwick.* After the death of that brave and virtuous 
nobleman, who devoted the services of his life, and his 
life itself, to the good of his country, in default of male 
issue, the title became extinct ; though it was soon revived 
in favor of Robert Lord Rich. After this time, the 
estates of Leamington seem to have fallen into the hands 
of various proprietors ; and, at present, the manerial 
rights, and a considerable portion of the land, within the 
precincts of the parish, belong to the noble family of 
Aylesford. 

The church, in this village, dedicated to All Saints, 
was originally a chapel, belonging to Leek Wootton, once 
a very extensive parish, situated at the distance of two 
miles, on the opposite side of the river, in the road from 
Warwick to Kenilworth.% In the reign of Edward I. 
the vicarage was valued at 20s. ; in that of Henry VI II. 
at ^6. ; and its value, at this time, is estimated at about 
,ggl50. It is in the gift of the Rev. Henry Wise, of 

* Dugdale, p. 256. * Ibid. 



LEAMINGTON PRIORS. 279 

Saline Spri?igs noticed by Camden and other early Writers. 

the Priory, at Warwick, and the present incumhent is 
the Rev. John Wise, of Lillington. 

The Saline Springs, for which this village is now 
so greatly celebrated, have long been known to its inha- 
bitants, and to those of its immediate vicinity ; and they 
are also distinctly noticed by many of our earlier writers. 
Camden, in his Britannia, published about 1586, after 
having mentioned the name, and described the situation 
of Leamington, adds, " Ubi fons salsus ebullit." Speed, 
in the " Theatre of Great Britain" published in 1 5$6, 
remarks, " at Leamington, so far from the sea, a spring of 
" salt water boileth up." Fuller, in his u History of 
the Worthies of Great Britain" published in 1662, 
observes, with all his usual singularity of thought, and 
quaintness of language — " At Leamington, two miles from 
" Warwick, there issue out, within a stride, of the womb 
" of the earth, two twin springs, as different in taste and 
u operation, as Jacob and Esau in disposition ; the one 
" salt, the other fresh. This the meanest countryman 
" does plainly see by their effects : whilst it would puzzle 
" a consultation of physicians to assign the cause thereof." 
Dugdale, whose first edition of the Antiquities of War- 
wickshire, w r as published in \6b6, observes, " that nigh to 
u the east end of the church, there is a spring of salt 
" water, whereof the inhabitants make much use in 
" seasoning their meat :" to which Dr. Thomas adds, in 
his edition of 1730, " and also, strangers used it rnedi- 
" cinally, with success." 

Some time before the period last mentioned, the 
saline springs of Leamington began to engage the notice 
of medical writers, on the subject of mineral waters. Of 



280 HISTORY OF 



Saline Springs examined by Guidot and others. 

these, the earliest was Dr. Guidot, who wrote about the 
year 1689, and who described it as " a spring of nitrous 
" water." This account, however, was afterwards ex- 
amined, and, with some severity of censure, rejected by 
Dr. Short, who published his " Treatise on Mineral 
Waters" in 1740; but who himself, surely, did not suffi- 
ciently understand, or correctly describe, the nature of the 
water, when he called it " a mere brine spring." He was 
followed, at the distance of a few years, by Dr. Rutty, 
one of the most indefatigable of all the early enquirers 
into the nature and properties of mineral waters. His 
large and comprehensive work, entitled, " A Methodical 
Synopsis of Mineral Waters" including a minute exa- 
mination of all the most celebrated mineral springs in 
this and other European countries, was published in 17^7* 
In this work is contained, among the rest, a particular 
account of Leamington Water ; which he considered, with 
Dr. Short, as strongly impregnated with marine salt ; 
and yet he was led from various experiments, to consider 
it, with Dr. Guidot, as possessing a considerable portion 
of calcareous nitre. Upon the whole, therefore, he 
decided it to be " a salino-nitrous spring." After careful 
evaporation, he found that a gallon of water yielded 960 
grains of sediment ; 30 of which were calcareous earth, 
and the rest marine salt. The same experiment was 
afterwards made, attended with exactly the same results, 
by Dr. Russell, whose treatise on the subject of sea water 
and salt springs, was published in \*j6d. It will, how- 
ever, be seen, in another part of this work,* that the 
quantity of residuum, estimated by these early experimen- 
talists, greatly exceeds that which the accurate analysis 

* See Chap. 31, 



LEAMINGTON PRIORS. 281 

The Water recommended by Dr. Kerr — First Baths erected. 

of modern times has discovered. It must, therefore, be 
supposed either that their experiments were not sufficiently 
correct, or that the water itself has lost a portion of the 
strength, which it once possessed. 

But, notwithstanding these early and distinct no- 
tices of Leamington Water, by medical and other writers, 
it continued to be, for a long time, little known, or little 
regarded, except by the inhabitants of the place, and the 
surrounding neighbourhood ; by whom, says Dr. Short, 
it was drunk in the great quantity of two or three quarts ; 
and was found, he adds, to be very efficacious in the cure 
of scorbutic and other complaints. At length, however, 
the period arrived, which we may fix about the year 1784, 
when the water of Leamington began to attract some 
share of public attention ; for which, it w r as principally 
indebted to the favourable opinion of Dr. Kerr, of 
Northampton ; whose sagacity first clearly penetrated into 
its valuable qualities ; and whose powerful recommendation 
first led to a fair and reasonable trial of its medical virtues, 
in several cases of disorder, particularly those of the 
chronic kind. Jt was by his advice, and under the 
sanction of his great authority, that, in the year 17 8o \ * 
new well was opened, and the First Baths were erected, 
by Mr. Thomas Abbotts, a native of the village ; whose 
claims may, therefore, without hesitation, be admitted — - 
in subordination to the higher claims of Dr. Kerr — to 
the proud distinction of being the first founder of 
Leamington Spa. These baths, which consisted only of 
one hot and one cold bath, for several years, were found 
sufficient to answer all the demands of those who resorted 
hither ; who were, then, indeed, no more than a few 
invalids ; and for whom no other accommodations were 

N N 



232 HISTORY OF 



The Second Bat lis erected. 



provided, besides that which two small inns, the Dog and 
the Bowling Green, together with the humble rooms of 
three or four cottages, slightly improved in their ap- 
pearance and furniture, afforded. 

But the dawn of a brighter day was approaching. 
The favorable opinion of the water, first entertained by 
Dr. Kerr, not only gathered strength in his own 
mind ; but was adopted, and zealously acted upon, by 
other physicians, and particularly by Dr. Johnstone, of 
Birmingham ; and, in consequence, the number of annual 
visitants greatly increased. In the year 1790, the rising 
reputation of Leamington became still more distinctly 
apparent, in the opening of a new well, and the erection 
of a new range of baths ; built upon a plan of greater 
convenience and spaciousness, and with some attention 
even to elegance, by Matthew Wise, Esq. of Leam- 
ington. As yet, however, nothing more was done, in 
the providing of lodgings for the reception of strangers, 
except fitting up, in a slight way, the rooms of a few 
additional cottages — and the general aspect of the place 
still wore the same appearance as before, of a rural and 
retired village. 

But an event of great importance, in the history 
of Leamington, distinguished the year 1794. This was 
the publication of an ingenious analysis of the water by 
Dr. Lambe, who, at that time, practised as a physician, 
with great reputation and success, at Warwick. From this 
analysis, which was first given to the public, in the 
Memoirs of the Manchester Philosophical Society*, it 

* Vol. v. 



LEAMINGTON PRIORS. . 283 



Dr. Ltnnbes Analysis of the Water. 



distinctly appeared, that Leamington Water greatly re- 
sembled in its nature, and in all its distinguishing pro- 
perties, the water of Cheltenham, which was then rising 
to the h eighth of its fame ; and that the medical effects 
to be expected from both are nearly the same. There 
is, indeed, one remarkable difference, consisting in the 
quantity of iron, which the one has been supposed to 
contain more than the other ; though it will be seen, in 
the sequel of the present publication, that this quantity, 
either from mistake or design, has been greatly over- 
stated. 

In opposition to this, however, and to every other 
superiority, on the side of Cheltenham, whether real or 
supposed, one clear and important advantage, in re- 
commendation of Leamington, soon became sufficiently 
evident ; which is the abundant supply of the mineral 
water, in a degree adequate to every probable demand, not 
merely for drinking, but even for hot and cold bathing. — 
At Cheltenham, on the contrary, the saline spring, it is 
well known, issues in so slow and scanty a stream, as 
scarcely to afford, in a crowded season, a supply sufficient 
for drinking \ and of course to expect the larger supplies, 
that would be required for general bathing, is impossible. 
It has been found necessary, therefore, to erect, in different 
parts of the town, baths, to be filled with common water,* 
the great inferiority of which to saline water, for all the 
salutary purposes of bathing, especially warm bathing, 
has been too long and too well understood, to need to be 
pointed out in this place. 



* Sometimes, however, the brino which remains after the chrystallizalion of the snlti 
is mixed with it. 

N N 2 



284 HISTORY, kc. 



Rising Reputation of the Water. 



So much was the public attention excited, in con- 
sequence of the analysis of Dr. Lambe, added to the high 
medical recommendations, before mentioned, that Leam- 
ington rapidly rose into great and general notice ; and the 
number of its visitants, with every succeeding year, pro- 
digiously increased. Every cottage now made haste to 
furnish its lodgings ; every lodging, to improve its ap- 
pearance ; new wells were opened ; new baths were con- 
structed ; new houses erected ; and not only new streets 
were formed in the Old Town, as it now began to be called ; 
but the plan of an entirely New Town was laid, which has 
since been partly carried into execution, including Assem- 
bly Rooms, a Pump Room, and Public Ratlis, built upon 
a scale of magnificence, scarcely equalled, certainly not 
exceeded, by those of any watering-place, in this or any 
other country. Thus, in the course of little more than 
ten years, from an obscure and insignificant village, has 
Leamington become, the crowded and fashionable resort 
of those, who are in search of health or pleasure, from 
all parts of England, Scotland, and even Ireland. 

Of this great and astonishing change in the state 
of Leamington, we shall now proceed to give an account, 
somewhat more in detail, in the three following chapters* 




-W 



THE WELLS AND BATHS, &c. 285 



The Wells and Baths 



CHAP. XXVIIL 



€§e Wz\l$ anii 25atf)£ or Seamingtom 

The Public Well— the Center Well—the* Road Well—the Bridge Well— the 
South Well— the North Well— the Pump Room— the New Baths- 
Abundant Supply of the Mineral Water — Terms for Bathing, $c* 



uO general is the custom, amongst the more opulent 
classes of society, of making annual visits to some or other 
of the numerous Watering Places, with which this coun- 
try abounds, that it may now be fairly considered as one of 
the prevailing and established customs of the times ; and as 
forming a striking characteristic, in the present manners 
of Englishmen. It may well be expected, therefore, that 
the invalids, whom necessity drives, or flattering hope 
allures, to any of these medicated springs, will always be 
out-numbered by those, whose only object, in resorting 
thither, is an agreeable change of scene, or a pleasing 
relaxation from the cares of business ; and by those, still 
more, who have chiefly in view the delights, which gay 
amusements, in quick and constant succession, and fashion- 
able company, in moving and splendid crowds, afford. Of 
these two classes — if any individual of either should deism 
to cast an eye over these pages — it is to the former, rather 
than the latter, that the present chapter is addressed. 
With invalids, of course, in meditating a journey towards 
whatevpr salutary fountain, their own judgment, or the 



286 THE WELLS AND BATHS 

The Public Well. 

■ » ' i • ■! i ■ ■ .- . i „ | . : „ T 

advice of their physician, may direct them, the first and 
leading enquiry will be into the facilities afforded for the 
internal or external application of the waters. To such 
enquirers, resorting to Leamington, or having a visit to 
it in contemplation, we shall now endeavour to furnish 
an answer — reserving for succeeding chapters, other en- 
quiries of no small importance, not to invalids only, 
hut to all others, relating to the salubrity of the air, the 
accommodations of the place, and the pleasantness of the 
surrounding country. 

Of the springs already discovered there are at 
present six ; and if more were required or sought for, it 
is probable that as many more might yet be found. As 
it is convenient that the different wells should be distin- 
guished by some permanent names, instead of the ever- 
changing names of the proprietors, it has been suggested 
that appellations, derived from situation, or any other 
obvious circumstance, would be preferable ; and with this 
view, the following names having been proposed, we shall 
without hesitation adopt them, in the following account. 

THE PUBLIC WELL. 

This is the very ancient spring, which is noticed 
by Camden, and other early writers ; and on which the 
experiments were made, as already mentioned, by Dr. 
Short, and other early medical enquirers. Dugdale, in 
describing its situation, fixes it at the east, by mistake, 
instead of the west end of the church ; but he is correct 
in saying it is not above a stone's throw from the river 
Learn ; and others still nearer have since been discovered. 
Formerly this spring flowed spontaneously, from a small 
fissure in the rock ; and it was here, that the hardy rus- 



OF LEAMINGTON. 287 

The Center Well 

ties of ancient days flocked, to drink the healing water ; 
which they swallowed, it is said, in copious draughts of 
two or three quarts; and that at a time, too, when, pro- 
bably, its strength was much greater than it is at present. 
Being situated on the waste land, this spring of course 
belongs to the Lord of the Manor, who is the Earl of 
Aylesford ; and who, at his own expence, lately inclosed 
it, by a small but elegant structure. Here, it was intended 
that a bath should be formed, for the exclusive use of the 
poor; but the design was afterwards laid aside; and the 
building is now only used as a room for drinking the 
water. Though built considerably below the surface of 
the ground, to which the descent is by a flight of stone 
steps, yet the water no longer flows spontaneously ; and 
recourse is now had to the use of a small pump, to which 
access may be obtained, on the same terms, as at the 
other wells.— It must not be omitted that a second pump, 
affixed to the external wall of this building, is left to the 
free and unrestrained use of the poor. 

THE CENTER WELL. 

The second spring, proceeding in the order of 
discovery, is situated at a small distance opposite the 
Public Well, and nearly in the center of the village. Upon 
sinking this well, in the year 1786, a rock was found at 
the distance of eighteen feet ; and within this rock, about 
three feet in depth, the saline water rises. The baths 
here erected, about thirty years ago, by Mr. Thomas- 
Abbotts, and now the property of his daughter, Mrs. 
Smith, were formerly as humble in their appearance, as 
that of the whole surrounding village. But .they have, 
since that time, shared in the general improvement of the 
place ; and are now neatly and commodiously fitted up. 



288 THE WELLS AND BATHS 

■ ' ■ ' ■ i ■ . ■■ .11 .1 i n m i— — m* . 

The Road Well— the Bridge Well. 

They consist of a cold bath, three hot baths, one of 
which is formed of marble ; and a small bath for the use 
of children. 

THE ROAD WELL. 

The third spring, situated in the high road from 
Warwick to Daventry and London, is the property of Mr. 
Wise, and was discovered in 1790. Here the water was 
found at the great distance of forty-two feet, from the sur- 
face of the ground. A well was first sunk to the depth of 
twenty-four feet. In the course of that depth, there is a 
rock, in thickness about eight or ten feet ; next a bed of 
marl ; and after this a rock much harder than the former. 
Through this second rock, a bore was made eighteen feet 
deep, were a cleft was found, through which the water 
flows copiously. — The baths here erected are commodious 
and handsome. There are two cold baths, large and well 
constructed ; and two good hot baths, all of which are 
furnished with the convenience of dressing rooms ; and 
there is also a small bath for the use of children. — To 
these, four additional hot baths are now constructing ; 
and, immediately adjoining, the foundation is laid of a 
new pump room. 

THE BRIDGE WELL. 

The fourth spring, which belongs to Mr. Robbins, 
was first discovered in 1810, and is situated close to the 
bed of the river, and near the bridge. Here, the water 
was found at the depth of only twenty feet. The baths 
which it supplies, are spacious and commodious, compris- 
ing one large cold bath, three hot baths, one of which is 
formed of beautiful marble; and a child's bath ; all, ex- 



WELLS AND BATHS. 289 

The South Well— The North Well. 

cept the hist, furnished with good dressing rooms. The 
water is pumped up by a sort of horse engine. 

THE SOUTH WELL. 

The fifth spring, discovered in 1810, situated at the 
southern extremity of the village, is the property of the 
Rev. Mr. Read. Here it was necessary to dig to the prodi- 
gious depth of sixty feet, before the water could be found ; 
and it is remarkable, that, in every well yet opened, the 
depth increases, in some sort of proportion to its distance 
from the bed of the river. On sinking this well, after pass- 
ing through gravel, in which is a fine spring of fresh water, 
a bed of red marl, eight feet in thickness, presents itself; 
next a white clay and sand stone, in which water of a 
brackish taste was found. Hard rock, 28 feet thick, next 
succeeds ; and, after it, a bed of softer stone, followed by 
another of marl, below which tbe water rises. The baths, 
here erected, are neat and good, though without the con- 
venience of dressing rooms. They consist of one cold 
bath, formed with Dutch tiles ; three hot baths, onq of 
which is of marble; and a child's bath, 

THE NORTH WELL. 

The sixth spring, situated on the north side of the. 
river, was discovered in 1810, at the depth of thirty-four 
feet, below the surface of the ground. Here numerous 
baths, and a pump-room, on a grand scale, have beeu 
erected, at the expense of about ^25,000. This great 
building presents a noble front ; and consists of a central 
part, extending one hundred and six feet, in length, and 
rising to the height of thirty ; supported by two wings, 
extending thirty feet, and rising to the height of twenty. 
It is surrounded, on three of its sides, by a spacious colon- 

o 



290 ACCOUNT OF THE 



Pump Room — The New Baths. 



nade, formed by duplicated pillars of the Doric order. 
The whole is built of native stone, designed by Mr. C. S. 
Smith, architect of London ; and forms, certainly, one of 
the most complete and magnificent structures of the kind, 
in the kingdom. 

Pump Room. 

Through folding doors, at each extremity of the 
Central building, just mentioned, are the two entrances 
into the Pump Room ; which is of large size, of lofty 
height, and noble proportions. The ornamental parts of 
the ceiling, the cornices, and all the interior embellish- 
ments are in the purest taste of simple elegance. This 
fine room is lighted, on one side, by a range of seven win- 
dows ; and, on the opposite side, by one large window of 
coloured glass. Below this last, at equal distances, are 
two beautiful chimney-pieces, of Kilkenny marble. At 
one extremity of the room is the pump ; which, with a 
basin in the centre, standing on an ornamental pedestal 
of Derbyshire marble, is inclosed, by a neat mahogany 
balustrade. 

The New Baths. 

In the two wings of this great edifice, are the 
principal entrances to the baths — which are formed in two 
divisions, entirely separated ; one appropriated to the use 
of the ladies, the other to that of the gentlemen. The 
number of baths is in the whole twenty ; consisting of 
every possible kind, hot baths, tepid baths, vapour baths, 
shower baths, hot and cold douche for topical applications, 
and a chair bath, which is an excellent contrivance for 
the safe and easy conveyance of the bather, on the undressing 
chair, into the bath. — All the baths are of good size, con- 



WELLS AND BATHS. 291 

Abundant supply of the Mineral Water. 

structed in the best manner, formed with Dutch tiles; and 
the contrivance, for filling and emptying them expeditiously, 
and for regulating them easily and exactly to any required 
degree of heat, is admirable. To many of them, convenient 
dressing rooms are attached. The water is drawn from 
the well, by means of a steam engine of two-horse power — 
which itself is an object of curiosity, as a striking and 
beautiful specimen of the great perfection, to which that 
most astonishing and important of all human inventions 
is now carried. It would be injurious to omit stating 
that, of this noble range, one cold and two hot baths have 
been appropriated, by the benevolent direction of the Pro- 
prietors, to the use of the poor. 

In concluding this account of the wells and bath* 
of Leamington, it must again be distinctly noticed, that 
there is an abundant supply of the mineral water, at every 
season of the year, not only for drinking, but for all the 
purposes of bathing: though, as it is affected, in some de- 
gree, by the rain, its efficacy is greatest in the summer. It 
is in this important respect, that Leamington y as before, 
remarked, may justly claim so decided a superiority over 
the sister springs of Cheltenham ; though yielding to them, 
certainly, in the quantity of some of the more valuable 
ingredients, which they contain. Whilst, at the latter 
place, no mineral water can be procured for bathing at 
all, and the supply is scanty even for drinking ; at 
the former, the copiously-flowing stream has been 
found sufficient to answer, not only every present, but 
every future probable demand, both for internal and ex- 
ternal application ; even if the numbers resorting hither, 
should be as great as at the most crowded watering-place 
in the kingdom. 

o 2 



292 ACCOUNT OF THE 

? ' ■ '" ' t ; ; m 

Comparative advantages of Warm and Cold Bathing. 

Every warm bath, when not used, is kept empty ; 
in that state it is shewn to those who apply ; and, in 
their presence, or whilst in the act of undressing, the 
process of rilling takes place, which requires only two or 
three minutes. The cold baths are generally supplied 
with fresh water, once every day, and might oftener, if 
required; which is seldom the case, since of late the use 
of the cold, has been almost entirely superseded by that of 
the warm, or tepid, bath. This is no doubt owing to the 
opinion, now so prevalent in the medical world, that the 
latter, as a remedy for most disorders, is far more safe, 
and as conducive to general health, usually more benefi- 
cial, than the former. In those few instances^ however, in 
which cold bathing might still be thought desirable or 
necessary, if the good eifect depends upon the degree of 
cold, that of Leamington water is very considerable, its 
usual temperature being from 48 to 50 (Fahrenheit) with 
little variation, winter or summer. But so far as the su- 
perior efficacy of saline above common water is concerned, 
this, it seems evident, mus v t be almost entirely confined to 
its use, as a warm bath. For, since the immersion, in cold 
bathing, is usually momentary, and the moisture remain- 
ing on the skin is immediately wiped ofi^ it is inconceiv- 
able that salt water, in this case, can be more beneficial 
than common water. But where the person continues 
immersed for some length of time, as is the case in warm 
bathing, the saline ingredients may then be ijmbibed by 
the pores ; and thus become of considerable utility in the 
relief of cutaneous and other disorders, for which it is 
usually recommended.* 



* Saunders «j Mineral Waters, p, 498 



WELLS AND BATHS. 293 

I ■ ' ! 

Terfns for Drinking <ih:i Bathing* 

The times for bathing and drinking the water, as 
fixed by custom, are before breakfast, or between break- 
fast and dinner. Bathing in the evening, too, before going 
to rest, is not uncommon. 

The terms for drinking the water, are at ail the 
springs the same, and amounts only to a small gratuity, 
occasionally given to the person who attends with glasses, 
and who is always prepared with the water warmed, for 
those that prefer the use of it in that state. The terms 
for bathing are, — for a common warm or hot bath, 2*. 6d. 
— for a marble bath, 3s. — and for a cold bath Is. — At the 
New Baths the charge for a warm bath is 3s. and for a- 
cold bath Is. 6d. 




294 ANALYSIS OF 



New Chemical Analysis of the Water. 



CHAP. XXIX. 



3JnaIpgi£ of Xeamington fflattt. 

Earlier Analyses of the Water — Causes of its present celebrity —Dr. Lambe's 
Analysis — New Analysis of the Bridge Well — Sensible qualities of the 
Water — Experiments to determine the more simple principles — Experi- 
ments to determine the nature of the compound substances — Gaseous 
contents of the Water — Table of the substances contained in the Water 
of the Bridge Well—of the Public Well— of the Center Well— of the 
Hoad Well— of the South Well — Medical uses of the Water taken 
internally i — Advantages of Bathing — Experiment to determine the 
effects of Hot and Warm Bathing — Comparative account of Cheltenham 
Water — Error of Mr. Accunis Analysis — Table of substances contained 
in the Water of the Old Well— of the Orchard Well— of the two Wells 
of Mr. Thompson, 



Jt OR the valuable communication, which forms the 
subject of the present chapter, it will be seen that the 
public are indebted to a highly respectable Member of 
the medical profession — who resided, a few years ago, at 
Warwick; and in whose removal from that place, the 
Inhabitants had to regret the loss of an attentive and 
humane Physician, largely furnished with learning and 
science; and capable of applying to the best purposes 
that knowledge and that skill, which experience alone can 
supply. Honoured, on many occasions, with his friendly 
regards, the Writer of these pages, feels great satisfaction, 
in introducing to the notice of his readers the following 
Chemical iinalysis of Leamington Water ;— 



LEAMINGTON WATER. 5295 

Earlier Analyses noticed. 

Dear Sir, 

I feel flattered by the wish, you have 
expressed, to insert my Analysis of the Leamington Water, 
in your interesting publication ; and shall be much grati- 
fied, if it be found to convey useful information to the 
numerous visitors of the place. The experiments, upon 
which it is founded, were for the most part made, during 
my late residence at Warwick ; where I had full oppor- 
tunity of satisfying myself upon every doubtful point, by 
frequent visits to the spot. They have been since that 
time repeated without material difference in the result; I 
trust, therefore, that it may be considered as a near ap- 
proximation to the truth: perfect accuracy is not pretended 
to, and is probably unattainable, as no two analyses are 
ever found completely to agree. 

This water appears to have been noticed at a very 
early period, being mentioned by Dugdale, in his An- 
tiquities of Warwickshire, and since adverted to by all 
our systematic writers, upon mineral waters. Dr. Guidot, 
the earliest of them, towards the close of the 17th century, 
attributed its qualities to what he called Nitre. Short, 
(1740) properly enough calls it a common weak brine 
spring; the laborious Rutty, (1757) a common brackish 
or salt spring, of the salino nitrous kind ; a gallon of 
which, he says, yielded 960 grains of sediment; whereof 
30 w r ere calcareous earth, the rest marine salt. Dr. Rus- 
sell, about 1760, describes it in the same terms ; and says, 
a gallon yielded 960 grains of sediment, whereof 30 were 
calcareous nitre, and the rest sea salt. Their experiments 
were made upon the water of the old well, situated upon 
the waste ; which was elegantly enclosed, a few years ago, 
for the benefit of the public, by the benevolence of the late 



296 ANALYSIS OF 



Causes of the present celebrity of the Waters. 

Earl of Aylesford, Lord of trie Manor. If they are accu- 
rate, it must have become materially weaker, in the course 
of half a century ; the gross produce, at present, being 
only two-thirds of what they state it to be. I am not 
inclined to attribute the whole of this great difference to 
mere evaporation ; the process of which, as described by 
Dr. Rutty, in the preface to his methodical Synopsis, seems 
to have been sufficiently well conducted : it appears to me 
more probable that its strength may have been somewhat 
reduced, by lapse of time 

But though thus cursorily noticed by hydro! ogical 
Writers, and empirically used by the neighbourhood, from 
time immemorial ; it is to the sagacity of Dr. Kerr, of 
Northampton, that it primarily owes its present high repu- 
tation. He was in the habit of recommending it to his 
patients j long before it became publicly known ; and to 
Ills perseverance, and continued perception of its virtues, 
and, I believe, to his actual suggestion, are the first baths, 
constructed by Mr. Abbotts, in 1786, to be ascribed. To 
these succeeded a more elegant set, erected by Mr. Wise, 
of Leamington, four years after ; and so large has the 
resort since been, to this favoured spot, that, in the course 
of the last eight years, four new wells have been sunk, 
besides the enlargement and enclosure of the public one 
above mentioned. To each of these, elegant baths are 
annexed, both hot and cold, with every accommodation, 
necessary to recommend them to public favour. The last 
set, just completed, on the north side of the river, on the 
ground and under the auspices, of Mr. Greatheed, of 
Guy's-Cliff, are adorned by a structure, which cannot fail 
to arrest the attention of every beholder. To the most 
beautiful exterior, is united every internal requisite; there 



LEAMINGTON WATER. 297 

Cattses of the celebrity of the Springs. 

being no fewer than 20 commodious baths, plentifully 
supplied with the saline water, by a steam engine, with 
every convenience for its application in whatever form it 
may be wanted, whether for local or general purposes ; 
and a magnificent pump-room is added, for the conveni- 
ence of those who drink the water — the whole forming a 
truly splendid addition both of elegance and utility to the 
New Town. 

The following circumstances seem to have chief- 
ly contributed to give such rapid celebrity to these 
springs. 1. The greater importance recently attached by 
the faculty to warm bathing, and aperient waters, in the 
treatment of various diseases. — 2. The actual benefit, 
which had, for many preceding years, been experienced 
from the internal use of the saline water of Cheltenham. 
— 3. But, above all, the great abundance of the supply, 
which has been found sufficient to afford to the invalid 
the double advantage of drinking and bathing : the valua- 
ble springs of Gloucestershire, it is well known, are not 
copious enough for this purpose. To these should be 
added, the numerous attractions of the neighbourhood, 
both natural and artificial — the proximity of an elegant 
market town ; the excellence of the roads ; and the healthi- 
ness of the place itself. 

Cultivated and so highly improved, as everv de- 
partment of chemistry has been, for some time past, it is 
rather surprising that no regular analysis of this usetul 
water has yet appeared. Curiosity has, doubtless, led 
many to the private examination of it ; but the only scien_ 
tific account, that I have seen, is that of my predecessor. 
Dr. Lambe ; who seventeen years ago, bestowed consider- 

p p 



298 ANALYSIS OF 



Analysis of the Bridge Well. 



able pains upon the subject.* His object, however, was 
not so much to detail its composition, as to explain some 
anomalous appearances, which presented themselves in 
the course of his enquiry : he, therefore, contented him- 
self with stating the result only of his investigation. 
There will be perceived an essential difference between 
us, in one article, viz. the sulphate of soda ; of which he 
assigns a much larger proportion than was indicated in 
my experiments. In other respects, I believe, we do not 
materially differ. 

As all these wells appear to be similar in the 
quality of their contents, and most of them nearly so 
in their quantity ; I have, for the purpose of the fol- 
lowing analysis, selected that which is manifestly the 
strongest ; and which, from its situation, I would call the 
Bridge Well. 

• ANALYSIS OF THE BRIDGE WELL. 

This well was sunk, in the spring of the yea^ 
1 808, by the direction of Mr. Robbins, the proprietor of 
the ground. On digging a few feet below the surface, 
through a blue clay or marl, two or three thin strata 
of sand stone successively presented themselves, increas- 
ing in thickness. After passing these, a solid rock came 
in view, which being struck into, poured forth a body of 
strongly saline water, that soon nearly filled the well, 
^he depth of this rock is, I believe, about twelve feet 



* See Memoirs of the Philosophical Transactions of Manchester, Vol. V. — Since 
Dr. Winth hop's removal from Warwick, tl A Chemical Analysis of Leamington Water, 
by Amos Middleton, M. D." has appeared, and has been so favouiably received by the 
public, that it has already reached its third edition.— Eo. 



LEAMINGTON WATER. 299 

•g. - ■ ■ " " " ' ' ' ■ ■= 

Sensible Qualities of the Water — Its more simple Principles. 

below the surface. The water was pumped out ; and a 
circular brick-work constructed, within the well, from the 
sides of which it was defended by clay. A pump was then 
inserted, and a covering placed over it. 

SENSIBLE aUALITIES OF THE WATER. 

Its appearance, when fresh, scarcely differs from 
that of common pump water. It does not sparkle ; few 
or no air bubbles collect upon the sides of the glass, into 
which it is pumped ; nor does the slightest turbidness or 
deposit take place, upon standing. It has no particular 
smell; but a strong brackish taste, at once, indicates 
muriate of soda to be a prevailing ingredient, in its com- 
position. Its temperature immediately from the well is 
uniformly from 48° to 50° of Fahrenheit's thermometer ; 
and the specific gravity to that of distilled water, as 10,138 
to 10,000. 

preliminary experiments with re-agents, to deter- 
mine the more simple principles. 

1. The only change that I have perceived it to 
make, in any of the coloured infusions, or paper stained 
witli them, is, that of a slightly blue or lilac tinge given, 
after some time, to paper, stained with the infusion of 
Brazil wood. Bergman says, he found, sea water pro- 
duce the same effect upon brazil'd paper ; and attributes 
it, very unaccountably, to carbonate of magnesia ; of 
which only one-eighth of a grain is, by his own analysis, 
contained in five pints and a half. Kirwan thinks it 
more natural to ascribe it to selenite ; though in an experi- 
ment purposely made, he found no effect of the kind from 
a solution of selenite, nearly twice as strong as that of sea 

p p 2 



3t>o ANALYSIS OF 



The more simple Principles determined. 



water. A saturated solution of selenite does, I think 
after some time, produce a fain appearance of the kind ; 
but the true cause of it, both in sea and Leamington water, 
is, without doubt, owing to trie muriate of magnesia, 
■contained' in each; a solution of which will be found 
upon trial to cause exactly the same change according 
to its strength. 

THE EFFECT PRODUCED BY A DROP OF 

2. Nitrate of silver—was a white curdy precipi- 
tate, insoluble in acids. 

3. Muriate of barytes— a white cloudy precipi- 
tate, insoluble in acids. 

4. Oxalate of ammonia — a white cloudy precipi- 
tate, sparingly soluble in diluted acids. 

5. Carbonate of ammonia — a white cloudy pre- 
cipitate, instantly soluble in diluted muriatic acid, with 
effervescence. 

6. Ammonia — a white flaky precipitate* 

7. Lime water — a white flaky precipitate. 

8. Tincture of galls — a pale rose tinge. 

The same effect, I sometimes thought more clearly 
produced, by suspending a piece of a gall-nut in the bottle, 
into which it was pumped; and, in some .trials, there 
appeared scarcely any imniediate change. 

9. Prussiate of potash— no change. 



LEAMINGTON WATER. ' 301 



Nature of the Compound Substances determined. 



Hence the more simple principles were found to 
be Muriatic acid (2) — Sulphuric acid (3) — Lime (4. 5.) — 
Magnesia (6. 7.) — and Iron (8.) 

EXPERIMENTS TO DETERMINE THE NATURE OF THE 
COMPOUND SUBSTANCES. 

10. For this purpose a quart of the water was 
boiled, strongly, for half an hour, in a glass vessel ; some 
distilled water being previously added, to supply the loss 
by evaporation. Towards the end of that time, it shewed 
a slight degree of turbidness ; and, when cool, a very fine 
reddish film was observed upon the glass. This was col- 
lected after carefully drawing off the water ; and was found 
to weigh about one grain. It dissolved almost wholly in 
diluted muriatic acid, with effervescence ; and appeared, 
by the appropriate tests, to consist of the carbonates of 
lime, magnesia, and iron — the first constituting three- 
fourths, the last not more than one-eighth, of the whole. 

All the above mentioned re-agents, except the 
tincture of galls, produced upon the boiled water, exactly 
the same effects as before : this caused no immediate 
change, but on standing for about twelve hours, the whole 
became of a yellowish green hue. This effect of galls 
was observed, in every state of the water. I was long 
unable to account for it ; but, at length, found a similar 
appearance take place in all solutions, containing muriate 
of magnesia. Dr. Rutty remarks that what he calls nitro 
calcarious waters, give a greenness with galls. By calcari- 
ous nitre he meant, I believe, sulphate of magnesia. 

11. A pint of the water was gradually evaporated 
to dryness, in a glass vessel ; during the evaporation, 



302 ANALYSIS OF 



Nature of the Compound Substances determined. 



minute crystals separated, and fell to the bottom. Their 
needle-shaped form, their solubility only in a large pro*? 
portion of water, the precipitates made by the addition of 
nitrate of barytes, and oxalate of ammonia to their 
solution, shewed them to be sulphate of lime. 

12. The residuum was digested in strong alcohol, 
for a few hours, and filtered. This process was twice 
repeated with fresh alcohol ; the first of the filtered 
liquors, evaporated to dryness, in a temperature not ex- 
ceeding 140°, afforded an amorphous residuum, which 
soon deliquesced ; a little distilled water being added to 
it, it gave with 

Nitrate of silver — a white curdy precipitate. 

Muriate of barytes — no change. 
Ammonia — a white flaky precipitate. 
Lime water— a white flaky precipitate. 
Oxalate of ammonia — no change. 

Hence muriate of magnesia, was ascertained to 
be the only deliquescent salt, contained in the water. 

13.. The part insoluble in alcohol, was treated 
with distilled water, and filtered. A portion of the fil- 
tered liquor tested with— 

Ammonia- — gave a white flaky precipitate. 

Lime water— a white flaky precipitate. 



LEAMINGTON WATER. 303 

Propositions of the Compound Substances determined. 

Sulphate of magnesia was, therefore, contained in it. 

14. A second portion was gradually evaporated, 
iind treated with successive portions of lime water, as long 
as any flaky separation appeared. When reduced to a 
small quantity, a little alcohol was added ; being found 
after filtration, to undergo scarcely any change from 
oxalate of ammonia, or ammoniaco phosphat of soda, to 
two separate portions of it, nitrate of lime and tartaric 
acid were added. The former soon shewed a decompo- 
sition ; upon the latter no change was produced, nor did 
nitro-muriate of platina eifect it. Hence sulphate of soda 
was found to he the only alkaline sulphate contained in it. 
A third portion, dried spontaneously in a watch-glass, 
exhibited a multitude of minute cubical chrystals ; which, 
dissolved in water, gave with nitrate of silver, a dense 
curdy precipitate ; shewing muriate of soda to be the 
principal ingredient. 

The compound substances, then appeared to be 
muriate of soda — muriate of magnesia — sulphate of soda 
— sulphate of magnesia — sulphate of lime — and a very 
small portion of the carbonates of lime, magnesia, and iron. 

Their proportions were now determined in the 
following manner :— 

15. Eight ounces of the water were evaporated 
to dryness in a glass dish, in a temperature not exceed- 
ing 180° ; the residium weighed 52 .3 grains. This was 
digested for twelve hours, in three times its weight of 
alcohol ; the fluid part being drawn off, the remainder 
was treated with fresh alcohol and filtered ; the two 
alcoholic solutions were then mixed and gently evaporat- 



304 ANALYSIS OF 



Propositions of the Compound Substances determined. 

' • ' ' ' ' ■ •'•■•■" ' ' '" • " ~ ■ — 

ed to dryness in a temperature not exceeding 140° ; the 
residium contained a few cubical chrystals, which were 
easily separated, and Aveighed about one grain. Hie 
remainder weighed ] .50 grains : the filter when dry was 
increased in weight about one grain, which being partly 
muriate of soda, the whole of the muriate of magnesia 
weighed 2 .10 grains. 

16. To the part not soluble in alcohol, was added 
half an ounce of distilled water. After standing some 
time, it was thrown upon a small filter; and half an 
ounce more of distilled water, in divided portions, added, 
till nitrate of silver ceased materially to affect it ; the 
undissolved part dried in the temperature of 180° weighed 
9 .50 grains. The solution, as I had ascertained in a 
similar instance, contained about one grain of sulphate of 
lime, dried in the same temperature ; which makes 10 .50 
grains of sulphate of lime in half a pint of the water. 
This was reduced by farther drying in a red heat to 9 .25 ; 
the fractional part of which being carbonates — the sul- 
phate of lime was nine grains. The saline solution was 
now divided into three equal parts. 

17. To one was added nitrate of silver, till no 
further precipitation ensued ; the precipitated muriate of 
silver, dried in a red heat, weighed 26 .40 grains, which 
indicate 33 .70 grains of muriate of soda, in half a pint of 
the water. If to this be added 1 .40 grains, contained in 
the alcoholic solution, the whole murjate of soda, con- 
tained in half a pint, will be 35 .10 grains. 

18. To a second part was added a little oxalate 
of ammonia, in order to free it from the small portion of 



LEAMINGTON WATER. 305 

Gaseous Contents of the Water. 

lime, it contained. It was then treated with ammoniaco 
phosphate of soda, till no further decomposition took 
place — the precipitate, gently dried, weighed one grain 5 
which indicates . 62 of a grain of sulphate of magnesia., 
or 1 . 86 grains in the half-pint. 

19. To the third part was added sufficient muriate 
of harytes to combine with all the sulphuric acid in it. 
The precipitated sulphate of barytes, dried in a red heat, 
weighed three grains : — from this must be deducted that 
produced from .62 of a grain of sulphate of magnesia., 
and . 25 of a grain of sulphate of lime. 

Fifty-two grains of sulphate of magnesia, produce 
100 of sulphate of barytes — therefore . 62 indicate 1 . 20. 

One hundred grains of sulphate of lime, produce 175 
grains of sulphate of barytes — therefore . 25 indicate .44, 

One hundred and seventy grains of sulphate of 
barytes indicate 100 grains of sulphate of soda. 

Hence 2 . 40 grains of sulphate of soda are con- 
tained in the half-pint. 

GASEOUS CONTENTS OF THE WATER. 

Of these it was manifest, both from the scanty 
appearance of air bubbles in the water, while fresh and 
during ebullition, that it contained but a very small pro- 
portion. The following experiment shews them to be per- 
fectly insignificant, in a medicinal point of view, though 
essential to account for, even the very small quantity of 
carbonates that is held in solution. 



306 ANALYSIS OF 



Substances contained in the Bridge Well Water* 



20. A tin vessel, containing exactly six pints, was 
filled with the water, and to it was connected and care- 
folly luted one end of a small bent copper tube, filled 
also with the water ; the other end being passed under 
a small graduated jar of mercury, containing seven and 
a half cubic inches. It was made to boil, and a strong 
ebullition was kept up, till all the air appeared to be 
discharged. The jar was then removed ; and, after 
standing till the temperature of the water it contained 
was reduced to about 100°, the air in it was found to 
occupy six inches. It was then transferred to a vessel 
of lime water, which absorbed one and an half inches : 
nitrous gas shewed the remainder to contain about half 
an inch of oxygen, and the last portion extinguished a 
lighted taper. 

In one pint of the Bridge Well Water, then^ 
there exist of 



GASEOUS CONTENTS. 

Of a Cubic Inch, 

Nitrogen <• .67 

Carbonic Acid ••••• • .25 

Oxygen •••• -••• 08 

1 . 00 

SOLID CONTENTS. 

Grains, 

Muriate of Soda...— ~ 70.20 

Sulphate of Lime • 18 . 

Sulphate of Soda 4 . 80 

Muriate of Magnesia • • • « *• 4 . 20 

Sulphate of Magnesia • • 3 . 72 

Carbonates of Lime and Magnesia .44 

Carbonate of Iron • • • • • ,......•••.. 06 

Total ,. 101.42 



LEAMINGTON WATER. 307 



Substances in the Water of the Center — the Road — the South Well, 

i i m ■ ' ' 1 

The gross residuum, after evaporation* in a tem- 
perature not exceeding 180°, was 104 . 6. The difference 
may be attributed, partly to a small portion of water still 
contained in it ; and partly, to slight losses unavoidable 
in the manipulation. I have only further to mention, 
for the sake of conformity with other Analysts, that I 
have, at different times, obtained from a pint of this water, 
residua varying from 105 to 114 grains ; depending upon 
different degrees of drying, and upon slight differences, 
perhaps in the quantity employed. With regard to the 
other wells, as none of them afforded any principles dif- 
ferent from the preceding, it will be sufficient to state 
their specific gravity and contents. 

SPECIFIC GRAVITY OP 

Distilled Water 10,000 

The North Well*. (Mr. Great heed's) not examined 

The Public Well (Earl of Aylesf or u"s) *...*. 10,107 

The Center Well (Mrs. Smith's) 10,107 

The Road Well (Mr. Wise's) 10,122 

The South Well (Mr. Read's) 10,107 

The contents of a wine pint were found to be 
as follows :— - 

THE PUBLIC WELL* 

Muriate of Soda * .48.50 

Sulphate of Lime 17 . 

Sulphate of Soda 9 . 

Muriate of Magnesia 4. 

Sulphate of Magnesia 3. 

Carbonates — a proportion scarcely noticeable 

81 . 50 



* I have taken the liberty of suggesting these local appellations instead of the 
varying names of the Proprietors. — Bergman did not hesitate to depiive a Saint of a 
similar honour, calling .St. Eric's Weil the Mill Spring, because it rose near the mill of the 
Universi'.y, 

e. a 2 



108 ANALYSIS OF 

Substances contained in the Public Well. 

THE CENTER WELL, 

Muriate of Soda • 46 . 

Sulphate of Lime • • • • • • .......... 18 . 50. 

Sulphate of Soda 3 • 

Muriate of Magnesia e 5. 

Sulphate of Magnesia • • 3 . 

Carbonates of Lime and Magnesia ••*•....••••.. ,44c 

Carbonate of Iron — a mere trace, about ......... .06, 

81 . 

THE ROAD WELL. 

Muriate of Soda ••••• ••••••• 61 . 

Sulphate of Lime .......... .......... 13 o 

Sulphate of Soda 4 . 

Muriate of Magnesia .. ... fi, 

Sulphate of Magnesia • ••••.. 3. 

Carbonates of Lime, Magnesia, and Iron, a mere trace 

92. 
THE SOUTH WELL. 

Muriate of Soda 52 . 76 

Sulphate of Lime •• 18. 

Muriate of Magnesia • •••• 5. 

Sulphate of Soda • •..•••..••• • 4, 

Sulphate of Magnesia 3. 

Carbonates of Lime and Magnesia • ,44 

parbonate of Iron, a mere trace, about • .06 

83 . 26 



There is one circumstance in the foregoing 
Analysis^ upon which it may be proper to say a few 
words. — -All the writers upon mineral waters have agreed 
that one grain of sulphale of lime requires 500 grains of 
distilled water for its solution, a pint therefore (7*3 10) 
would not dissolve quite 15 ; yet all these waters contain 
two or three more after complete exsiccation. Dk. Lambe 
noticed this apparent anomaly ; and seemed inclined to 
attribute it to the agency of certain foreign matters, which. 



LEAMINGTON WATER. 309 

Medicinal uses of the Water. 

his experiments led him to think, existed in the water. I 
have, however, found it to be owing, as in some other 
instances, to the associated salts. By an experiment pur- 
posely made, it appeared that water when nearly satu- 
rated with muriate of soda, will dissolve between three and 
four times as much sulphate of lime, as it will in its natural 
state ; and accordingly the brine springs at Droit 'wich* 
have been lately found to contain 38 grains of sulphate 
of lime in the pint. 

It would be transgressing the bounds I have set 
to myself, were I to enlarge upon the medicinal use of 
these springs ; and it is the less necessary, as most of 
what might be pertinently said upon the subject, has been 
anticipated in the observations upon saline waters con- 
tained in the justly popular work of Dr. Saunders. 
Suffice it to say, then, that, in the usual dose of a well 
pint, viz. twelve ounces, more or less, according to the 
circumstances of age and habit of body, taken at intervals 
before breakfast, they for the most part make tfcfeir way 
quietly through the bowels ; giving, in the first instance, 
from the prevalence of the muriate of soda, a salutary 
stimulus to the stomach, productive of improved appetite 
and digestion, and afterwards cleansing the whole passage 
by dilution and evacuation; and that internally and exter- 
nally they may be had recourse to, with well-founded 'ex- 
pectations of advantage, in various irregularities of the 
digestive organs, comprised under the general term 
Dyspepsia; in some diseases of the liver and gall ducts, ari- 
sing from deficient action or obstruction ; in several scro- 



* Account of the Brine Springs, at Droitwich, by Leonard Horner.-— Transactions 
»/ the Geolcgiccl Society, 181 i. 



310 ANALYSIS OF 

Medicinal uses of the Water. 

fulous, rheumatic, and cutaneous affections ; and in many 
anomalous complaints, which have been termed cachectic, 
proceeding from, or connected with morbid action of the 
abdominal viscera. If the occasional use of the warm 
bath tends so much to the maintenance of health, by 
merely keeping the external surface of the body clean and 
perspirable ; how much greater benefit may be expected 
from the same attention being paid to the alimentary 
canal: upon the state of which, not only its own secre- 
tions, but those of the organs connected with it, the future 
condition of the blood, and the healthy action of every 
part of tile system, so much depend. This obvious view 
of the subject, sufficiently explains the good effect of these 
and similar waters, which are frequently drank with ad- 
vantage for months together ; gradually and often rapidly 
restoring lost appetite, looks, flesh, and strength ; almost 
the whole of their operation, as I conceive, being to wash 
away the various crude and foul substances, which either 
clog the mouths of the secretory and absorbent vessels, or, 
by their irritating qualities, tend to destroy their natural 
and healthy actions. The stomach and bowels, as they 
are first acted upon in the cure, so are they, without doubt, 
the prime agents in the production or maintenance, of 
most diseases ; and it is, therefore, the preservation of them 
free from irritation and preternatural congestion, that 
should form the main indication in every sanative process. 

Though the ochreous stain upon the marble baths 
sufficiently indicates the existence of iron, in these waters j 
yet from the extremely small quantity that appears by the 
analysis to be contained in them, they cannot, I think, in 
any practical view, be considered as chalybeates. They 
are hardly sensible to the gallic test ; not at all so, in my 



LEAMINGTON WATER. 31 i 

Beneficial Ejects of Warm Bathing. 

experiments, to the prussie ; nor (what I should think ne- 
cessary for such an effect) do they evince to the taste, the 
slightest chalybeate impregnation. Well-informed prac-^ 
titioners, however, will not value them the less, on this 
account. Whatever advantage may attend a ferruginous 
impression upon the stomach and bowels, during the action 
of a saline water; or however requisite it may be thought, 
in particular instances of a weak and relaxed frame; it is 
certain that nature has very rarely provided them, with 
such an assistant — the most celebrated and efficient cold 
purgative waters, both in this and foreign countries, being 
of the simple saline class, and totally destitute of all 
metallic, ingredient. The Epsom, the Harrowgate, the 
German waters of Sedlitz and Seydschutz, those of Dublin, 
so much extolled by Dr. Rutty, together with the many 
useful, though less active ones, in the neighbourhood of 
London ; do not any one of them contain a particle of 
iron. It is clear, therefore, that the great and acknow- 
ledged benefit, which, during a long course of years, has 
resulted from their use, cannot have in any degree, de- 
pended upon the influence of this metal. The profound 
maxim of Hippocrates, will sufficiently account for it. 
" If fit matters are evacuated, the evacuation will be bene- 
" ficial and well supported ; if unfit, the contrary will 
u happen." 

The acknowledged fact that inanimate bodies are 
expanded by heat and contracted by cold ; together with 
the doctrine of cutaneous absorption, which, till lately, 
prevailed universally, as a medical theory, gave rise to 
many erroneous notions, scarcely yet exploded, respecting 
the operation of the warm bath. The mechanical physi- 
cians, during the greater part of the last century, misap- 



uj x ANALYSIS OP 



Beneficial Effects of Warm Bathing. 



plying the fact above mentioned to the phenomena of 
the living body, decried it as a debilitating power, relax- 
ing the solids, and enervating the whole system ; while 
the cold bath was in an equal degree extolled, for its 
bracing; and invigorating effects. The humoral patholo- 
gists, too, by supposing the water to be absorbed into the 
body, drew many fanciful consequences, respecting its 
operation upon the blood and humours. An improved 
physiology has concurred, with multiplied experience, to 
overturn these opinions. The anodyne and antispasmodic 
virtues of warm water, its power of allaying internal irri- 
tation and of removing the watchfulness, which is often 
occasioned by it, had been long experienced and taken 
advantage of by physicians,, in the treatment of some of 
the most painful and distressing diseases ; and Dr. Mar- 
card's admirable experiments, contrived to demonstrate 
its direct effects upon the body, have, in the most satisfac- 
tory manner, explained its true operation. They were 
made with the aid of a thermometer and stop-watch ; 
and, apparently, with great accuracy. The result was, 
that in fourteen out of fifteen instances, the frequency of 
the pulse was, upon the average, reduced seventeen beats, 
in the course of from half an hour to an hour, in a warm 
bath, of the temperature of between 85° and 96° of Fah- 
renheit's thermometer; and he, therefore, thought himself 
justified in concluding, that nature does, in this instance, 
observe a general law, though with some exceptions, and 
considerable modifications. In addition to, and as tending 
to confirm, his valuable experiments upon this point, I 
have thought it worth while shortly to detail the follow- 
ing ; which was made at Leamington in the year 1808, 
under circumstances which seemed to preclude the possi- 
bility of error. 



LEAMINGTON WATER. 



313 



Experiments to determine the effects of Warm Bathing. 



The subject of it was a healthy man thirty-seven 
years of age. 



Temperature of the Bath 

on immersion .... 86° 
Temperature raised sud- 
denly to 95° 

Temperature increased, 

unintentionally, to 112° 
Temperature reduced to 105° 
Temperature ..•».... 96© 

Temperature 93° 

Temperature ••• 90° 



Pulse before immersion • • 66 
In five minutes after im- 
mersion, Pulse .... 58 
Pulse continued ........ 58 

Felt uncomfortably hot, 
Face flushed, and Pulse 98 

Pulse continued 93 

Pulse .- 88 

Pulse «... 76 

Pulse 70 



By this experiment^ then, which agrees completely 
with those of Dr. Marcard, it appears clearly that a 
Warm bath, under blood heat, possesses, a sedative, and, 
above it, a stimulant power, over the animal functions.— 
The former, he refers to the " agreeable* sensation, which 
every one, so situated, experiences ; and to the calm and 
tranquil state in which the whole surface of the body 
is placed, consisting, nearly of a tissue of nerves, wjiich are 
connected with all the other nerves of the system. If these 
latter have the property of being sensible to impressions 
made upon the former, we shall no longer be surprised 
at the important effects which take place, when so large 
a portion of them is agreeably affected. — We know not 
how, and why, the bath produces such a sensation ; but 
we know, that heat, to a certain extent, is pleasant to the 
nerves, and that the pleasure is increased when water is 
the vehicle of it. The bath, then, by soothing and 
agreeably affecting the organs of sense, may tend to lessen 
the effect of other impressions, and together with it, the 



* Marcard sur la nature et l'usage des bains. 

R R 



314 ANALYSIS OF 



Comparative Account of Cheltenham Water. 

■■' ■■ " '■ " ■ ' iii i n 

irritability of the muscles, not directly, but through the 
medium of the nerves ; and, in this manner, it may ope* 
rate to the mitigation of pain, to the quieting of preter- 
natural motions, spasms, and convulsions; and even to the 
diminution of the irritability of the heart, and the other 
organs ; and, thus, by tranquilizing the whole system, 
may gradually induce sleep, the maximum of repose of 
the living body," 



A SHORT 

Comparative Account of the Cheltenham Water. 



Whxlk engaged in the above Analysis, enqui* 
ries were often made by my patients, respecting the 
nature of the saline water of Cheltenham ; which had 
been so beneficially employed, for near half a century ; 
but of which the real composition seemed not yet to have 
been sufficiently investigated. As it may gratify some of 
your readers to see a comparative statement of their con- 
tents, I venture to submit the following, though well 
aw r are that it differs materially from those, which have 
hitherto been laid before the public. 

That of Dr. Fothergill, being founded upon 
an Analysis made so far back as 1780, while the art was 
still in its infancy in this country, cannot, as, indeed, it 
does not, pretend to any thing like chemical accuracy — * 
the sulphates of soda and magnesia, which were thought 
to be the two principal salts, not being separated ; the 
muriate of soda assigned, by the vague method of chrys- 
tallizatiQn ; and tl\e oxyd of iron, still more vaguely, by 



LEAMINGTON WATER. 315 

Cheltenham Wate?* not a Chalybeate. 

conjecture. — From that of Mr. Ac cum, made at a much 
later period, my results differ still more widely. It is un- 
necessary to justify them here, by another detailed Analy- 
sis, and I shall, therefore, content myself with saying, that 
I believe them to be nearly accurate. Should their sim- 
plicity operate to create doubts as to their truth ; let it be 
remembered, that the more closely the works of nature 
have been investigated, the more simple she has gene- 
rally been found; and that as small means, properly ap- 
plied, are often sufficient to produce great effects ; so 
improved health may result from the continued use of a 
mineral water of a sufficiently active, though, by no 
means, of a complex nature. 

I cannot conclude without one or two observa- 
tions, respecting the supposed chalybeate quality of these 
springs ; to which it appears to me, that, in a practical 
view, they are no more entitled than those of Leaming- 
ton ; as they did not, any of them, in their natural state, 
evince this character, with the appropriate tests ; and only 
shewed a mere vestige of iron, in the insoluble residium, 
treated with nitric acid, too inconsiderable to be worth 
notice. Such quantities as five and seven grains of car- 
bonate of iron in the gallon, as have been assigned to 
them, when it is at the same time truly stated, that they 
undergo no change, on exposure to the atmosphere, is an 
inconsistency which needs only to be mentioned. 

A peculiarity of some importance, perhaps, in a 
medicinal view, distinguishes the two wells of Mr. Thomp- 
son, situated in Montpelier ground — they both gave to 

Tincture of cabbage — a green hue. 

RR2 



316 ANALYSIS OF 



Contents of the Water of the Old Well— the Orchard Well. 

- - '■ * ■ ... ,.. 

Brazil paper — a. bluish ditto* 

Turmeric paper— -a light brown. 

These colours became deeper in proportion as the 
water became stronger by evaporation, shewing a slight 
alkaline impregnation. To this, must be ascribed, the 
turbidness and white sediment, which, I was informed^ 
take place, on preparing the warm salt baths from a 
mixture of the brine, remaining after the chrystallization 
of the salts, with common water. — -The sulphate of lime, 
contained in the latter, is decomposed by the carbonate 
of soda. 

THE OLD WELL. 
Specific Gravity ; » * 10,084 

CONTENTS IN A PINT. 

Grains. 

Sulphate of Soda «. . • 23 

Muriate of Soda 17 

Sulphate of Magnesia -* 5 

Muriate of Magnesia .............. l £ 

Sulphate of Lime ...... 3 f 

Earthy Carbonates, with a very small proportion of iron 3 

53 



THE ORCHARD WELL. 
Specific Gravity io,09S 

CONTENTS IN A PINT. 

.Grains. 

Sulphate of Soda 28 

Muriate of Soda 26 

Sulphate of Magnesia * • 2 | 

Muriate of Magnesia •«•* If 

Carbonates of Linje> Magnesia, and Iron, principally } 
the first, with just a vestige of the last ♦• • • ' 

62 



LEAMINGTON WATER. 31? 

Contents of the Water of Thompson's Wells. 

The Chalybeate strong Saline Well of Mr. Thompson. 

Specific Gravity 10,095 

CONTENTS IN A PINT. 

Grains. 

Muriate of Soda • 34. 

Sulphate of Soda 23 

Carbonate of Soda, nearly » 1 

Carbonates of Lime, Magnesia, and Iron, principally •% 
the first, a mere trace of the lust > 

65 

The Carbonated strong Saline Well of Mr. Thompson, 

Specific Gravity 10,088 

CONTENTS IN A PINT. 

Grains, 

Muriate of Soda 33 

Sulphate of Soda 26 

Carbonate of Soda nearly » 1 

Carbonates of Lime, Magnesia, and Iron, with a mere •% 
trace of the last ■ > 

62 
MR. SMITH'S WELL. 



Specific Gravity 10,123 

This as appears from the specific gravity, is the 
strongest of all — and its superior strength arises from the 
larger proportion of muriate of soda in its composition. 
The exact quantity of its several ingredients, I had no 
opportunity of ascertaining. 

The above examination was made, in the year 
1810, upon the waters, which were then in use. I un- 
derstand, that several new wells have been since opened 



318 ANALYSIS, &c. 



Nero Wells of Cheltenham. 



by Mr. Thompson, some of which possess qualities 
materially different from the above. As I have had no 
opportunity of analysing them, the present account can 
only apply to the wells then existing. 

I Remain, 

Dear Sir, 

Very unfeignedly Your's, 

STEPHEN WINTHROR 



New Cavendish Street, 
July 22, 18 J 4. 




SITE OF LEAMINGTON SPA. 319 



Face of the surrounding Country. 



CHAP. XXX. 



jSite of Seaminston <£ga* 

Face of the surrounding Country — Situation of the Old Tozon—of the New 
Town — Nature of the Soil — Salubrity of the Air — Abundant supplies of 
the necessaries and conveniences of Life — Advantages of the vicinity of 
Leamington to Warwick — Excellence of the Roads. 



JLN his excellent work on the " Medical Powers of 
Mineral Waters," Dr. Saunders considers the site of a 
medicinal spring as a collateral branch of enquiry of great 
importance. Under that term, which we have borrowed 
for the title of the present chapter, he includes all that 
relates to the soil, the general state of the atmosphere, 
the purity of the air, and face of the country around the 
spot, that is enriched with this natural treasure. " These 
circumstances," he remarks, " are of no small consequence 
to the invalid ; since the advantages of air, exercise, and 
agreeable prospects, in most cases, admirably coincide 
with the general curative effect of the spring itself." * 

"With respect to site, then, in this extended sense 
of the word, it is not too much to say, that Leamington 
will bear comparison with almost any of the admired and 
favored Watering Places in the kingdom — not excepting, 

* Saunders' Treaiise on Mineral Waters, 2d Ed. p. 92. 



326 SITE OF 



Situation of the Old Town — of the New Town. 

certainly, it's great rival, the celebrated springs of Glou- 
cestershire ; above which, indeed, in some important res-* 
pects, it may even claim a preference. Our object, in the 
present chapter, is to give some account of the advantages 
of situation, which Leamington possesses ; and this will 
be followed, in a succeeding chapter, by an account of the 
various accommodations, already provided for the suitable 
reception, and agreeable entertainment, of it's visitors. 

Leamington is situated towards the eastern extre- 
mity of a spacious amphitheatre, formed by a circuit of 
gently rising hills, of which Warwick is nearly the central 
point; extending about 14 or 15 miles in circumference. 
Though the country, immediately around it, presents none 
of the bolder or grander features of nature, yet it is high- 
ly fertile and well cultivated; diversified by pleasing 
inequalities of ground ; delightfully watered by the wind- 
ings of its own river, the Learn, and its neighbouring 
river, the Avon; intersected with some of the finest 
hedges ; and richly adorned with all the usual trees of the 
forest, many of which are of most majestic forms, and 
most luxuriant growth. Of these, some are seen thickly 
scattered along the hedge rows ; others formed into small 
groupes ; and others uniting and spreading into the noble 
and extensive groves and woods, with which this part of 
the country abounds, and of which several are, in the 
immediate vicinity of Leamington, 

The Old Town is situated, somewhat low, on the 
south banks of the river ; yet, being considerably above 
its level, it is usually dry and clean ; whilst the New 
Town finely rises, on an easy and beautiful slope, at a 
small distance, on the opposite bank. The soil is chiefly 



LEAMINGTON SPA. 321 



Abundant Supply of the Necessaries and Conveniences of Life. 



a rich sandy loam, with a great intermixture of gravel ; 
and, in almost every part of the village, as well as round 
it, at some depth below the surface, a bed of solid rock 
is usually found. The air has ever been considered as 
pure and salubrious ; the fresh water springs are clear 
.and good ; epidemic disorders occur as seldom, and in- 
stances of longevity are found as often, here, as at any 
of the most healthful places in the kingdom. 

Leamington is well supplied with all the neces- 
saries and many of the luxuries of life, partly by means 
of its own shops, which are daily increasing, and its 
weekly market, lately established ; and still more com- 
pletely, by means of the numerous shops, and the large 
and well-attended markets, of Warwick. The produce 
of the farm-yard and the poultry-yard, are obtained, of 
excellent quality, in great abundance. Fish is regularly 
procured, by the daily coaches, from London. Extensive 
garden grounds, formed immediately round it, as well as 
many others in the neighbourhood, ensure constant 
supplies of fresh vegetables ; whilst hot-houses, green- 
houses, and fruit-walls, offer their more expensive delica- 
cies for the table. Coals are brought, by means of the 
Canal, at a moderate price, chiefly from the pits near 
Birmingham. 

Leamington, is two miles distant from Warwick : 
and its vicinity to this handsome and flourishing town 
must be distinctly noticed, as one amongst the greatest of 
its numerous recommendations. For, besides the supply 
of all articles of necessity or utility, which it ensures at 
reasonable prices, thus checking or preventing the enor- 
mous impositions, too common at Watering Places ; it 

s § 



322 SITE OF 



Advantages of the vicinity of Leamington to Warwick. 

affords an agreeable excursion, for the frequent amuse- 
ment, either of a morning or evening. There are two 
roads to Warwick; and a more delightful ride or 
walk, than either of these offers, can scarcely be desired. 
Though this town has little of the stir and bustle of a 
large manufacturing or trading place ; yet there is gene- 
rally enough to render a walk through it sufficiently 
interesting ; and, especially, in the busy scenes of the 
weekly markets, or the monthly fairs — in the more crowd- 
ed streets, which mark the time of the Assizes, and the 
Quarter Sessions, and in the proceedings of the Courts of 
Judicature, on those great occasions — in the gay amuse- 
ments of the Races, of which there are two annually — 
or in the more refined entertainments of Philosophical 
Lectures, which are here occasionally delivered — the visi- 
tors of Leamington, will often find sources of pleasing 
engagement. The many objects of rational and dignified 
curiosity, which the town itself presents, in its noble 
castle, its stately church, its venerable choir, its beau- 
tiful chapel, and its numerous and handsome public 
edifices, have already been minutely described, in the 
former part of this work. 

The great boast of Warwickshire has long been, 
its roads ; which are, by the confession of all, some of 
the best in the kingdom ; and those, in the neighbourhood 
of Leamington, are peculiarly excellent. Formed of 
well-compacted gravel, they are smooth almost as walks ; 
ruts are nearly unknown ; and little moisture is retained, 
even after the dampest seasons, and the hardest rains. 
But whilst, in his daily excursions, the valetudinarian 
is thus secured from all the inconveniences of rough or 
uneasy motion, and from the deleterious effects of hu- 



LEAMINGTON SPA. 323 

1 1 

Excellence of the Roads. 

■ ■ . — ■■■- ' i n ' ' , j ; jg 

midity ; he is, at the same time, little exposed, even in 
the midst of summer, to the painful annoyance of rising 
and stifling dust. In no direction, except in one, and 
that only for a few hundred yards, is he in danger of 
encountering the serious evil of sandy roads — -that pest 
of Cheltenham ! — to avoid which, its visitors are so often 
reduced to the dull monotony of driving up and down its 
main street. Even the more private roads about Learn- 
ington are many of them so wide and so good, at least 
in summer time, as to admit of passing with ease in 
carriages ; and thus add considerably to the number and 
variety of the rides, with which the surrounding country 
abounds. 

The general character of Warwickshire is that 
of a flat country ; which, of course, precludes the possi- 
bility of many very extended prospects ; yet, at the same 
time, it renders the pleasures of a drive more easy and 
safe ; and there are views to be obtained from Hatton 
Hill, from several points in the Stratford Road, and in 
that to Halford Bridge — not to mention Edge Hills, 
as being too distant — which relieve this part of the 
country, from the reproach of offering no prospects, of 
any considerable extent. 

Let, in short, the visitors of Leamington, who 
seek either the health or the amusement which rural 
excursions afford, turn in whatever direction they please ; 
they will find most of those circumstances, which con- 
tribute to render a morning or an evening ride delightful 
— a firm and even road — a rich and beautiful country, 
gently varied, well watered, and well wooded — enlivened 
by numerous flocks and herds, of the finest breeds — em- 

s s 2 



324 SITE OF, &c. 



Pleasantness of the surrounding Country. 

a aS ESEESm I ■ IB SB — ^—— — — — ^— ^— — — — i> 

bellished with every kind of rural habitation, from the 
proud villa and the comfortable farm-house, to the neat 
and loAvly cot — interspersed with a considerable number 
of villages, some lying pleasingly sequestered, and others 
occupying situations, more open and cheerful. — Thus to 
invalids is every inducement afforded to take the air and 
exercise, in all cases, so conducive to health ; and, in this 
case, so necessary to aid the salutary effects of the waters. 

Distinct notices of some of the principal Rides 
and Walks, round Leamington, will be found in a sub-, 
sequent part of this worko 




PRESENT STATE, &c. 325 



=t 



State of the Old Town. 



CHAP. XXXI. 



$te£ent §>t$tt of 3Ceamit!0tott, 

High-Street — Olorenshaw" s "Reading Room — Royal Hotel — Barford Build' 
ings — Clemens'-Street, Bissetfs Picture Gallery — Upper Clemens- 
Street — Ranelagh Gardens — Church-Street — Bowling Green Inn— 
Market-Place — Post-Office — Satchwell-Place — Church — Monuments-^— 
Gloucester-Street — Bissetfs Museum — Bath-Street — Bath Hotel — 
Theatre — Bridge — New Pump Room — the Mall — Priory Gardens — 
Union-Street — Bedford Hotel — Upper Union-Street — Rackstrow's 
Library — Cross-Street — Upper Cross-Street — Assembly Rooms — 
Frost-Street. 



JL ROPOSING, in the present Chapter, to give some 
account of the various accommodations, provided, with 
such astonishing rapidity and such unsparing expense, for 
the reception and entertainment of its numerous visitors 
— we shall attempt a slight sketch of Leamington, as it 
now appears, taken in the course of a walk through it— ~ 
beginning with the Old Town. 

As most of the cottages, which once composed 
the whole of this small and humble village, still remain, 
it is easy to compare together its former and its present 
state ; and to perceive, in every part, a change so great, 
as almost to entitle even the Old Town to the appellation 
of New. Perhaps, in the whole compass of topographical 
records, no instance can be found of a village rising, 



326 PRESENT STATE 



High-Street — Reading Rooms — Royal Hotel. 



within a shorter space of time, from obscurity to celebrity, 
and from a scanty collection of straw-covered dwellings 
to one of the most distinguished and fashionable Water- 
ing Places in the kingdom. 

Entering the village from the Warwick Road — 
on the left — is the seat of Matthew Wise, Esa. ; sur- 
rounded by . its beautiful plantations, forming a bold 
semicircular sweep — and on the right — appears the first 
of the new erections, Albion House, a singular structure, 
built in a sort of mock Gothic style, rather fanciful than 
tasteful — but affording within, three comfortable dwell- 
ings. — Behind this, at some distance, towards the Napton 
Canal, are several clusters of smaller houses ; some of 
them offering neat and cheerful lodgings. — Passing a 
good bow-windowed house, lately converted into a board- 
ing-house, and the gates of an extensive Mews — Olo- 
renshaw's shop next appears, still on the right, abun- 
dantly furnished with jewellery and stationery ; to which 
a very commodious Reading Room is attached, well 
provided with diurnal and monthly publications ; together 
with a Circulating Library, carefully adapted to the usual 
taste of watering places, in a tolerable collection of 
voyages, travels, and above all — novels. On one side, this 
shop, is a large and good ; on the other side, a small and 
comfortable house. Behind it, is the South Well ; and, 
before it, the Road Well. 

Proceeding onwards — at the corner of Clemeng- 
Street, is a spacious shop, with a lofty and handsome 
front, used as a grocer's ; and next to it, is Copps' Royal 
Hotel and Boarding House — an extensive range — with 
no uniformity, indeed, in its exterior appearance — but 



OF LEAMINGTON. 327 



Clemens' 'Street — Bissett's Picture Gallery. 



fitted up, within, in a style of elegance, equal to almost 
any in the kingdom. The general dining-room and the 
public drawing-room are spacious and handsome. There 
are several smaller rooms, for private parties ; and the 
number of chambers exceeds sixty. — Beyond this large 
establishment, are Barf or d Buildings — a row of houses 
very small, but very snug ; and, further on, towards the 
extremity of the village in this direction, interspersed 
amongst the old cottages, are several new and good 
houses. — The whole of this part has lately assumed the 
name of High-Street, 

At right angles with this street is another— 
entirely new — wide and well-formed — called Clemens- 
Street. Of this, one side is occupied by a range of 
good houses, furnished with neat balconies ; behind which 
are a considerable number of smaller houses. On 
the opposite side, are several good shops ; an intended 
hotel, as yet unoccupied ; Probett's Mews capable of 
receiving fifty horses, and half as many carriages ; and 
a range of houses, uniformly built, in a good style, dis- 
tinguished by the name of Clemens' -Place. 

In Clemens' -Street, is Bissett's Picture Gallery, 
in which are a considerable number of paintings, some 
of them good, particularly a large picture, representing 
" The Baptism of Henry VIII? by Mather Browne, 
Esgl. — " Gideons Sacrifice? by Sir J. Barry. — u Per- 
seus and Andromeda? by Tintoretto. — " Flowers? by 
Baptiste. — " Trajan's Pillar at Rome? by Lairesse. — ■ 
This Gallery is also used as a Reading Room ; and is well 
furnished with the daily papers, the monthly publications, 
and many of the more popular productions of the day. 



328 PRESENT STATE 

Upper Clemens 'Street— Ranelagh Gardens — Market Place. 

faiWW .IIM II IIIM I I I TI HMM II ■ WIIMIIII — f — ■ — SSSS I — — — ■» 

Clemens'-Street is terminated at its upper or 
southern extremity by a Bridge, thrown across the Nap- 
ton Canal — leading to an intended new street, to be 
called Upper Clemens'-Street. — On the left of this— r-at 
a small distance — are extensive flower and fruit garden s, 
occupying a space of nearly ten acres — but not laid out 
at present with much taste — in which are large hot- 
houses and green-houses — -and for which a botanical col- 
lection is said to be preparing. If these, rather on the 
credit of what they promise hereafter, than on what they 
actually appear, must rest their claim to the high-sound- 
ing name of Ranelagh Gardens, which they have lately 
assumed ; it must, however, be allowed they have already 
opened a source of amusement, to the visitants of Leam- 
ington, at once, pleasing, rational and healthful. — On 
the right of the Bridge — is the occasional residence, 
in the cottage style, of William Moody, of Beau- 
desert, Esq. ; and still further to the right, appears 
the busy scene of a Navigation Wharf, chiefly filled 
with coal. 

Opposite the lower or northern extremity of Cle- 
mens'-Street — to the left is Bath-Street — and to the right 
Church-Street. In this latter, Leamington, as it was, 
may be seen, perhaps, more than in any other part. At 
the left corner stands the Bowling Green Inn — small 
but comfortable. Here is the old Assembly Room, 
whose scanty dimensions and humble appearance, com- 
pared with the extent and splendour of the New Rooms, 
strikingly shew the progressive improvement of the 
place. — On an open space, near this Inn, the newly- 
established Market is held, every Wednesday, during the 
season. 



OF LEAMINGTON. 329 

Church-Street— Sat chw ell- Place— The Church. 

In the central part of Church Street, are several 
good houses, recently finished, forming a strong con- 
trast with the thatched roofs, and mud walls, amid which, 
they rear their modern and shewy fronts. At the upper 
extremity of this street — to the right — is the way to the 
Post-Office ; near which, rurally situated, is a range of 
good houses, called Satchwell-Place, terminated by Gor- 
don House, once honoured by the residence of some of 
that noble family ; — and, to the left — a short path, 
through the Church-yard, leads to Bath-Street^ the 
Public Well, and the New Town. 

The Church is ancient, and presents all the hum- 
ble exterior of a country church, with plastered walls, 
and low tiled roof. It is, however, neatly fitted up within. 
One of the windows is venerable for its antiquity ; and 
affords no mean specimen of the fine pointed style, which 
prevailed in the fourteenth and following century. At 
the west end, is a good old square tower, furnished with 
four bells. Against this, was once a clock. It may 
well be supposed that this small church, inadequate 
for the accommodation even of the parishioners, must 
be deplorably insufficient for that of the numerous 
visitors, resorting to Leamington : and a plan has 
been proposed, for enlarging or rebuilding it. May zeal 
and money, equal to its accomplishment, be speedily 
found ! 

The monuments within this Church are not nu- 
merous, nor, with one or two exceptions, remarkable. A 
flat stone, in the middle aisle, with a short inscription, in 
English, shews where lie deposited, the remains of the 
Rev. Dr. Greenwood, formerly vicar of St. Mary's and 

T T 



330 PRESENT STATE 

Tomb of the Rev. Dr. Greenwood. 

St. Nicholas', in Warwick, who was an author of some 
considerable note in his day.* In the Chancel, is the 
family vault of Matthew Wise, Esq. of Leamington; 
and that of the Rev. Edward Willes, whose ancestors 
were seated so long ago as the reign of Henry VIII. at 
Newbold Corny n, in the same parish. || 

Of this latter family there is one monument, which 
is well entitled to distinct notice. It is a marble tablet, 
with a Latin inscription,^ dedicated to the memory of 
the Right Hon. Edward Willes, father of the present 
possessor of Newbold, who greatly distinguished himself 
in the study and practice of the law; and who rose, by 
his merits, with little assistance from the patronage of the 
great, to the higher honors of the bar. He was, for many 
years, as the inscription informs, Recorder of Coventry, 
and Attorney -General for the Duchy of Lancaster. He 
was afterwards advanced to the honorable post of Kings 
Serjeant-at-Laiv ; and was, finally, raised, in 1757/to the 
dignity of Chief Baron of the Court of Exchequer, and 
one of his Majesty's Privy Council, in Ireland. Though 
he owed his elevation principally to the high reputation 
he had himself acquired for profound and extensive know- 
ledge in his profession, and for great sagacity, activity, 
and integrity in the discharge of its duties ; yet he always 
acknowledged much obligation to the favourable opinion, 
and zealous support of his relative, his friend, and his only 
patron, the Right Hon. John Willes, who was for many 
years, Chief Justice in the Court of Canimon Pleas, in 
England, It is pleasing to add, that the eminence of his 



* See some account of him, page l32„ J] Dugtiale. 

$ See Appendix, 



OF LEAMINGTON. 331 



Monument of the Right Honourable Edward Wilies. 

character, as a Judge, was accompanied by all the less 
dazzling, but not less important qualities, which adorn pri- 
vate life. Few surpassed him, as a husband and a father, 
in fervor of conjugal and parental affection ; or, as a man 
and a christian, in benevolence of disposition, and in kind- 
ness and suavity of manners.- — By an attention, too close 
and too ardent, to the duties of his high station, his health 
was irreparably injured, and the foundation laid of a 
disorder* under which he languished for some time ; and 
which obliged him to retire, in 1/66* to his native country, 
and the seat of his ancestors, amidst the delightful shades 
of Newbold Corny n-. In this rural retreat, he had, how- 
ever, the satisfaction to find, that his public services, 
though discontinued, were not forgotten ; and the soothing 
consolation to receive, amidst the pains of a lingering 
distemper, the well-merited testimony of royal munificence 
and gratitude, in the grant of a liberal pension — which 
was settled upon him for life — but which he did not long 
live to enjoy. Exhausted by gradual decay, the effect of 
his incurable disorder, at length, he calmly resigned his 
mortal existence to Him, who gave it, June 24, 1/68, in 
the 66th year of his age. 

In the Church-yard, are some very old tomb-stones 
— " frail memorials," treacherous to their trust, on which 
are no longer visible " the names," — •" the years," — " the 
uncouth rhymes," — "the shapeless sculpture," — -or with 
whatever else they may have once been charged. One tomb 
ivithout, as well as two elegant marble tablets within the 
Church, seems to forebode that, as the scene of the living 
world changes round it, this once " sequestered spot," 
will no longer be the receptacle only of the iC unhonoured 
dead." — But in the midst of other humbler monuments, 

T T 2 



332 PRESENT STATE 

Monuments in the Church Yard. 

mummmmmmm^immjmmami^mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmammm^mmmQmammmmmmmm^mmmmmmmmmmam^mmimimimmmmmmmammmmmmmmmm 

scattered all about, appears one proudly conspicuous ! 
It is a handsome tomb of the altar kind, inclosed with 
iron palisades ; on which is a long inscription to the 
memory of Benjamin Satchwell — who was, by trade, 
a shoemaker ; by profession, the village rhymer ; and, by a 
distinction, certainly noble, the founder of the Leamington 
Spa Charity.* This inscription, in verse, from the pen 
of a well-known writer, lately deceased, Mr. Pratt, 
whose name by no common practice is affixed, tells, not 
very poetically, and rather too pompously, his merits — 
which were, however, for one in his low station, real 
and considerable. The just praises of humble worth are 
too often reluctantly given, or injuriously withheld ; but, 
when too much is asked, harm is done, because that 
which is fairly due is then less willingly paid. — Near this 
aspiring tomb,|| is another, less ostentatious, which points, 
where rest in peace, the remains of another village 
worthy — whose well-established claims to public grati- 
tude, will not be less cheerfully admitted, because more 
modestly asserted. He was the founder of the first 
baths of Leamington Spa ; and, as such, his name is 
already recorded, with due honour, in these pages.;}; 



* This excellent Charity provides free of expense, the advantage of bathing for 
poor invalids, on applying with proper recommendations. It is strange that the circum- 
stance, which principally marked with honourable distinction the subject of tins funeral 
panegyric, should be passed entirely unnoticed. — It is, also, an objection that though the 
inscription alludes, it seems, to the poetical propensities of honest Satchwell, yet it 
requires the help of a note to make out the allusion — especially as that note, though it 
appears in the printed copy, could not with propriety be placed on the tomb. 

[| What must be said to that line of the inscription, which calls this " the unassum- 
ing tomb,'* of Satchwell ? If this very handsome monument, with its long inscription 
from the pen of a writer of no little public note, must, indeed, be considered as humble 
even for a simple mechanic — what sepulchral grandeur or what marbled verse can hope to 
reach the dignity of the higher order of merit, or the more splendid gradations of rank ? 

$ See p.S8J and 29S. 



OF LEAMINGTON. 333 

Gloucester-Street — Bissett's Museum— The Theatre. 

At right angles with Church-Street, is another — 
entirely new, called Gloucester-Street, in which are 
several good modern houses. Bissett's Museum, in this 
street, well merits distinct notice. It contains a con- 
siderable variety of specimens of birds, beasts, fishes, and 
insects, British and Foreign •, and a great number of 
curious articles of the arms, the dress, the ornaments, 
and the musical instruments of ancient times, and of 
foreign, and particularly barbarous countries. — Certainly, 
an hour of leisure, at Leamington, can scarcely find a 
more rational and pleasing gratification, than that, which 
the inspection of this small but amusing collection of 
the wonders of nature and art will afford. 

Parallel to Church-Street, and connected with 
it by Gloucester-Street, is Bath-Street — the eastern side 
of which is occupied by a range of new houses, with good 
shops — terminated by the Theatre — lately erected — of 
which the exterior presents a handsome front, formed of 
Roman cement, finished in a pleasing style of simple 
elegance : and of which the interior is neatly and coin- 
modiously fitted up. Here the amusements of the drama 
are offered, much in the manner of most of our countiy 
Theatres, three times every week, during the season. 

Beyond the Theatre, on the same side, is the 
Public Well; and, nearly opposite, is the Center Well; 
— immediately adjoining which is the Bath Hotel. — 
This, originally a small Inn, has been so often enlarged, 
and so greatly improved, as to form a complete and com- 
modious house ; not unworthy the higher name it has 
lately assumed, instead of its former humble designation 



334 PRESENT STATE 

Bath Ho>el — IVea; Bridge — Tump Room. 

V , " ' '" i n iii l ii. h' i k i i ii r . n ,,. , , „ ' " HI 

of the New Inn. The public dining room is large and 
handsome ; and the number of chambers is nearly thirty. 

Proceeding from the Bath Hotel towards the 
Bridge — on the left, are several pleasant cottages and 
smaller houses; and beyond them is the Bridge Well; near 
which are two or three good modern houses. One of these 
was, in 1810, dignified by the residence of their Graces, the 
Duke and Duchess of Bedford, who have twice honoured 
this Spa with their presence. 

Passing over the new stone Bridge of three 
arches—- well built, but ill placed — the new Pump Room 
appears to view — presenting a noble front, with its beau^ 
tiful colonnade — forming, as before remarked, one of 
the most complete and magnificent structures of the 
kind in the kingdom. Its situation, however, is too 
near the road to admit of any good passing view; as 
there is no point, from which the whole extent can, at 
once^ be seen. But, from the fields, at a small distance 
to the right, it appears strikingly grand, and finely 
shaded by the rich and variegated woods, that surround 
it.* — The form of its roof, which is in the cottage 
style, low, heavy, and admitting no relief, is indeed, 
considered by some, as not happily chosen ; and the in- 
troduction of a ponderous square pillar, between two 
round ones, in the colonnade, is still less admired by 
others. Such intermixture is surely not pleasing to the 
eye ; and if the fine eifect of duplicated columns depends 
at all upon unbroken continuity, throughout the whole 
arrangement, that advantage of course is lost — and what 

* This view is given in one of the engravings which embellish the present work. 



' 




* 



OF LEAMINGTON. 335 

The Mall — the Priory Gurde?is — New Town. 

H i i ! ..i n . i i.. i i, „ , i . , H i 

is gained is not very apparent. But even these alleged 
faults find, in some, advocates, if not admirers — and, 
upon the whole, it is, by all, acknowledged that a nobler 
piece of architecture, both in design and execution, is 
not to be seen, in this or any other country. 

From the new Pump Room — passing onwards — to 
the left, are seen the large and beautiful woods of New- 
bold Corny n, the seat of the Rev. Edward Willes — 
and to the right, stretching in a long line, is the Mall, 
planted on each side with trees, but not yet completely 
formed. — Near this, are the grounds, recently laid out, of 
the Priory Gardens, which occupy a large space ; and, 
immediately before, bursting on the astonished view, 
appear the numerous, extensive and handsome buildings 
of the New Town. 

And here — advancing forwards — the singular 
vicissitude of human things is seen in striking view ! 
Casting the eye about from one animated point to another 
— who would suppose what, only a few years ago, was 
this whole surrounding tract ? AH, then, was the silent 
and the solitary field ; the grass covered, or the corn 
waved over it ; the cattle and the sheep, unmolested, fed 
on its surface, or reposed beneath its shade. Not a trace 
of human habitation was seen ; nor sound of human 
voice, except the song of the rustic labourer, was heard. 
But now, how changed the scene ! The busy hum of 
men succeeds to the low of the kine ; and where, so late, 
the plough cut its furrowed way, or the sweeping scythe 
laid its waving treasure low-— the walls of human habita- 
tions ascend ! — an extensive and beautiful town appears ! 
— a street is formed, and others are forming, which might 



336 PRESENT STATE 



General Appearance of the New Town— Union- Street. 



almost dare comparison with some of the fine streets, at 
the west end of the metropolis — and public edifices uprear 
their stately fronts, which might even boldly challenge 
competition with the most magnificent of the kind, that 
have hitherto been erected in our own, or any other 
country ! — Thus proudly rises New Leamington, in its 
very birth !< — What will it, then, be, in its maturity ? — 
Who can say ? — or venture to foretell the high pre-emi- 
nence, it may hereafter attain, among the most crowded 
places of fashionable resort? — But be distant, perhaps, 
flattering anticipation forborn ! — and the soberer task 
attempted, of tracing what already appears of this infant 
town— leaving, to the future historian, to describe its 
progressive advances towards final completion. 

Entering the New Town — Union Street first 
appears — uniformly built — in one long strait line. The 
houses are lofty and handsome; furnished with light 
iron balconies ; and finished in the usual style of modern 
elegance. The whole appearance, indeed, as an ingenious 
observer once remarked, is exactly that of one of the 
modern streets of London, removed, as if by invisible 
agency, and placed down amid the fields of Leamington. 
To every house, a garden is attached; and, though the 
plan of the interior seems not to have been well laid, at 
first, yet subsequent alterations and additions have ren- 
dered most of them commodious dwellings. A fine broad 
pavement, before this whole range, extending from 
one extremity to the other in a length of about four 
hundred yards, forms a noble and spacious promenade; 
and striking is the scene, which here, the assembled rank 
and fashion of Leamington, moving in splendid crowds, 
especially in the height of the season, afford ! 



OP LEAMINGTON. 337 

ess 1 . t—— — — — — — , , — — — 

Bedford Hotel — King's Mews — Cross-Street. 

Towards the center of Union- Street, is the Bed- 
ford Hotel ; of which the exterior presents a uniform 
and handsome front, and the interior is commodiously 
and elegantly fitted up. The public dining room and 
drawing room are of ample size, and good proportions. 
There are numerous rooms for the use of private parties; 
and it is a particular object of this great establishment, 
to provide for the accommodation of those, who prefer 
the quiet and sober enjoyment of a family party, to the 
brilliancy and the bustle of a large assembly. The num- 
ber of chambers is about fifty. — At a small distance, 
opposite this Hotel, are the extensive and well-arranged 
buildings of King's Mews, capable of receiving nearly 
fifty carriages, and more than a hundred horses. 

Above Union-Street, is Upper Union-Street, in 
which are several good, and some handsome houses : and 
at right angles with it, is another — only in part formed 
— called Cross-Street. In this a considerable number of 
houses are already built, and more are building — most of 
them houses of the second and third rank. 

In Upper Cross-Street, are the Assembly Rooms 
— one of the finest structures of modern times — in which 
pure and elegant taste has exerted and displayed its 
happiest efforts. The simple grandeur of its exterior 
appearance, the conveniency and magnificence of its 
interior arrangements, and the splendour and costliness 
of all its attending decorations, are certainly unequalled 
in any similar erection, throughout the kingdom. In 
size, indeed, the Assembly Rooms of Leamington must 
yield, in a small degree, to those of Bath and Chel- 
tenham ; but, in all other respects, the latter are greatly 
surpassed by the former. 

u u 



338 PRESENT STATE 



Assembly Rooms— Exterior Appearance. 



The spacious front of this- fine edifice is built of 
native stone, after a design truly admirable, and worthy 
the pupil of a Wyatt ; into which not the smallest need- 
less or meretricious ornament is admitted ; but all is 
chastely beautiful and simply elegant. In the central 
part is a range of seven windows, each supported by 
pilasters of the light Ionic order ; and the whole sur- 
mounted by an entablature, perfectly plain and una- 
dorned. Two handsome wings, slightly projecting from 
the main building, give relief to it; and furnish those 
smaller apartments, which are the usual or necessary 
appendages to the large Assembly Room. Into the 
interior there are two entrances, one on the eastern side, 
from Union-Street, through a small porch supported by 
four Ionic columns ; the other and the principal entrance 
is, in the right wing, from Upper Cross-Street, which 
admits, through large folding doors, into the Hall. 

The Hall is of good size. Opposite the door is 
the Refectory. To the right is the first Billiard Room ; 
which is sufficiently spacious, and well fitted up. The 
massive mahogany table, made by Fernyhough, of Lon- 
don, is valued at a hundred guineas. To the left, a flight 
of stairs conduct to the second Billiard Room, which, 
though not quite so spacious, is equally commodious as 
the first.— On the left side, also, are the folding doors, 
which open into the large, lofty, finely proportioned, 
and most magnificent Ball Room— measuring in length 
eighty-two feet, in width thirty-six, and in heighth twen- 
ty-six. The ceiling is tastefully done in ornamental 
plaster work. Three superb chandeliers are suspended 
from it, of cut glass, and of exquisite workmanship 
which, together with those in the adjoining apartments, 



OF LEAMINGTON. 339 

Assembly Rooms — Interior Arrangements. 

are said to have cost a thousand guineas. On one side 
is a range of seven handsome windows ; of which the 
furniture, of crimson morine, with black fringe, is ex- 
tremely rich. On the opposite side are the two chimney- 
pieces of highly polished marble, from the quarries of 
Kilkenny; above which are two large ornamental mirrors. 
At the upper end, is the orchestra — to the left of which 
is a door, leading into the Card Room. This is a spaci- 
ous and handsome apartment ; and beyond it is a Reading 
Room, well provided with the London and provincial 
papers, and with some of the best periodical publications. 
The Reading Room, on ball nights, is converted into a 
Tea Room. 

Such are the internal arrangements of this well 
designed and highly finished erection, in every respect so 
complete and perfect — as to leave nothing to be desired, 
except a happier choice of situation. But, here, by the 
confession of all, a capital error has been committed, as 
lamentable as it is irretrievable. Even in a closely-built 
and crouded city, where of course choice is always con- 
fined and fettered, to place so noble a structure in so unfit 
a situation, would scarcely have been pardoned. What, 
then, can be said for those, who, permitted with free 
liberty of choice, to range over the ground plot of a town, 
existing as yet only in the plans of an architect, have 
chosen so ill ? 

Before we finish even this slight sketch of the 
early history of New Leamington, it would be ungene- 
rous, if not unjust, to disappoint the fair and laudable 
ambition of an honest and industrious professor of the 
masonic art — who has sent, for insertion in these pages. 

u u 2 



340 PRESENT STATE, &c. 

First Foundation of the New Town. 

the following notice ; which we willingly give, nearly in 
his own words — at once, as a memorial of honourable 
distinction, and as a record of an interesting fact :— 
" George Stanly, mason, of Warwick, laid the first 
(C brick of the first house, erected at New Leamington, 
" October 8, 1S08." 

This first house, which was built by Mr. Frost, of 
Warwick, stands at the corner of Upper Cross-Street, 
opposite the Assembly Rooms; and it is with no more 
than a well deserved compliment to the first bold adven- 
turer in a new and untried path, that a street, running 
parallel with Union-Street, only- as yet in part formed, 
has, in honour of him, been named Frost-Street. 




RIDES AND WALKS, &c. 341 



Excursion to Wanvick, by Myton. 



CHAP. XXXII. 



afti&eg anti t©alftjS rounti Seamington. 

Excursion to Warzcick — to Kenilworth and Coventry — to Stratford, by Sher- 

bourne — by Charlecote — to Kineton and Edge/nils — to Ha [ford Bridge 

to Knowle — to Hockley — to Henley-in-Arden — to Harzoood , s House and 

Gaydon Inn — to Barford, by Tachbrooke and the Asps — to Southam to 

Kenilworth, byChesford Bridge— to Coventry, by Sfoneleigh — The Walks, 



IN a slight and general way, we have already noticed 
thejlne roads, with which the country round Leamington 
is intersected in almost every direction ; and the pleasing 
variety of rich and beautiful scenery which is almost every 
where presented — sometimes even approaching to the 
higher and grander views of nature. Descending from 
generals to particulars— since it is of particulars only, ac- 
cording to a trite observation, that we can form clear or 
precise ideas — we shall now proceed to notice more dis- 
tinctly the principal rides, with which the circumjacent 
country abounds, taken in a circuit of about ten miles. 



RIDE TO WARWICK. 



Of all the rides or walks, not the least pleasant, is 
that which usually first presents itself to the visitors of 
Leamington, — the ride to Warwick — either by the excel- 
lent and well-frequented road, through Myton Turnpike, 
or by the more retired and rural road through Emscote. — 
The former, commencing near the southern extremity of 



342 RIDES AND WALKS 



Excursion to Warwick, by Emscote. 



the village, running for some way parallel with the Nap- 
ton Canal, crossing the Navigation Bridge, passing by 
My ton House* to the right, and the Lace Manufactory^- 
to the left, conducts over the New Bridge^ into the town. 
The approach to Warwick on this side, as already noticed,'! 
exhibits a display of picturesque beauty and grandeur 
which is rarely surpassed. 



The second road to Warwick, in part, newly form- 
ed, commences from the northern extremity of the New 
Town ; passing over a small rustic bridge at the bottom of 
a little romantic dell, turns to the left near a pleasant farm 
house, called the Cunery ; leaves the Rock Mill, and the 
adjoining Cotton Manufactory, to the right ; and passes 
over Emscote Bridge, a very ancient structure, " bestrid- 
ing with its wearisome but needful length" the waters of 
the Avon, which are here augmented by those of the 
Leam.§ — This latter river, rising not far from Daventry, 
and entering the county near Willoughby, pursues a very 
winding course through the south-eastern tract ; and, after 
passing by Granhorough, Wappenbury, Off church, Leam- 
ington, and other villages, falls into the Avon, a little 
below Emscote Bridge. Dunsmore Heath, lying between 
these two rivers, is the scene of some of the fabulous ex- 
ploits, recorded of Guy, Earl of Warwick. 

To the left of the bridge, at some distance, stands 
the ancient Manor-house of Emscote, or Edmonscote, which 
from the reign of Henry IV. to that of Henry VII. be- 



* See Page 58. t Page 78. t Page 81. |j Page 65—66. 

§ Dug dale derives ihe name of this river, on account of its slow motion and turbid 
appearance, from the Greek word limne, which signifies a pool or lake. 



ROUND LEAMINGTON. 343 

Excursion to Keniloorth and Coventry. 

longed to the family of the Hugfords, many of whom 
were persons of great power and consequence, within this 
county. * In the latter reign, by the marriage of an heiress 
of this family, the estate passed into that of the Beau- 
foy's ; and, by them, in 177°\ it was sold to the present 
Earl of Warwick. 

From Emscote Bridge, the road, passing near the 
Navigation Millsf conducts through Coten End, into the 
town. — The view of Warwick, from several points in this 
road, with its Churches and the noble towers of its Castle, 
sometimes bursting on the sight, through the opening 
glades, and sometimes displayed in uninterrupted prospect, 
before the eye, is highly picturesque and beautiful. J The 
fine trees, which adorn the sides of the road, give it occa- 
sionally the appearance of a drive through the groves of a 
park ; and offer a friendly shade, during the summer heats, 
peculiarly grateful. — This ride may be agreeably varied, 
by taking, instead of the new road, a circuit round by the 
road to Lillington, which will increase the distance rather 
more than a mile. 

EXCURSION TO KENILWORTH AND COVENTRY. 

Of the various rides from Warwick, may be noticed, 
first, the ride to Coventry — ten miles — which, for the excel- 
lence of the road itself, and the charms of the surrounding 
scenery, has ever been accounted one of the most delight- 
ful in the kingdom. Commencing, with a broad sweep, 
nearly opposite the ancient hospital of St. JoJin,\\ leaving 



* Sje Dugdale, page 187. Edit. 1656. t Page 78. 

J O-.e of these views is given ia Ireland's Picturesque Views of the Warwickshire 
AiL-h. II Pape 55. 



344 RIDES AND WALKS 

Guy 's-CUjf—Blacklow Hill — Wool ton. 

t i ll. i ■ i I ■ ' I i i ' i ■ nlmvmS 

the Priory,* standing on a fine eminence to the left, and 
a handsome newly erected villa to the right, and passing 
the bridge over the Birmingham Canal, the rich groves of 
Guifs-Cliff^r soon appear. The mansion itself is seen 
through the dark shaded vista, formed by rows of aged 
and venerable firs. The Mill, as old as the era of the 
Conquest, immediately adjoins. 

Beyond the Toll-gate, to the left, is BlacMoiv Hill, 
crowned by tufts of evergreens, and distinguished as the 
place where Gaveston,^ the haughty favorite of Edward 
II. was put to death by his powerful and relentless foes, 
in direct and daring violation both of the forms of law 
and the faith of treaties. A cross, commemorative of the 
event, called Gavestorfs Cross, anciently stood here. Op- 
posite this hill, to the right, the windings of the Avon, in 
a lengthened course, are strikingly seen ; and beyond it, 
on a rising ground, the little recluse village of Milverton 
appears. 

Crossing a bridge, at the second mile, over a small 
stream, which falls into the Avon ; and ascending a gentle 
acclivity, the road, deeply cut in the solid rock, passes 
through the village of Leek IVootton. Here is a handsome 
Church, newly erected, which occupies a bold eminence to 
the left ; near it is a parsonage house, most delightfully 
rural ; and scattered round it are several good farm-houses. 
— At a small distance from Wootton, is Woodcote Manor 
House, of very ancient date ; which, at the time of the 
Conquest, as mentioned in Domesday Booh, was surround- 
ed by woods, extending a mile in length, and half a mile 



Page 237, &c. t Page 258, &c. % Pa&* 13 and 70. 



ROUND LEAMINGTON. 345 



Kenilznorth — Ruins of the Castle — and of the Priory. 

in breadth — whence it received its name. It was at that 
time the property of the Earl of Mellent, and afterwards 
of the Earl of Leicester ; from whom it passed into the 
possession of the Botelers, a family of great considera- 
tion in this county. It is now the property of Robert 
Mallory, Esq. of Bath. By recent improvements, the 
house presents the appearance of a handsome modern 
dwelling ; and its sequestered situation affords a perfect 
image of still and quiet rural seclusion. 

Leaving Wootton, and crossing a new bridge, at 
the third mile, over a small stream called Holbroke, on 
the summit of a gentle rise, appears a good farm-house, 
called the Grange — beyond which, Kenilworth opens to 
view. This is a long, scattered, beautiful village, exactly 
midway between Warwick and Coventry. The country 
about it appears luxuriantly fertile ; the ground pleasingly 
broken ; many of the houses are large and handsome ; 
most of them occupy delightful situations ; and the fine 
ruins of the Castle and the small remains of the Monastery 
of Black Canons, both founded in the reign of Henry I. 
diffuse around a venerable air of antiquity and grandeur. 

Pursuing the road towards Coventry — at some 
distance to the left, is seen Spring, the residence of David 
Lloyd, Esq. About the sixth mile, crossing a small 
brook, on the right, stood, anciently, Milbiirne Grange, 
belonging to the Monks of Stoneleigh ; and, on the left, 
Cry field, which, says Dugdale, before the Norman Con- 
quest, was a royal residence. It was afterwards assigned, 
by Henry II. to the use of the Cistercian Monks, who 
removed to this place from Radmore, Staffordshire, 
and who finally settled at Stoneleigh.—- -From the seventh 

x x 



346 RIDES AND WALKS 

„mj MJ ;.— » l l .. i l l l JLJMBMJ.qJ.J-U!l«»l ' » l l l 1l l l.B II IUJ I H I I I I I ■ I » ■ lllllll II I I H K M I I ■ J WtJJ_-kLJU-U III I I l l lllll » WI I HHH I I W^ » 

Approach to Coventry. 

— ■ ; a ■■- ■ i ' ..■■,,. 

mile, the road is conducted in so strait a line, that the 
next succeeding mile-stone is distinctly seen from it, at an 
apparent distance, scarcely equal to half the real ; and 
yet, on approaching Coventry, so much does the same 
road wind about, that the spires of that ancient city are 
seen at one moment on the right, and at another on the 
left. — The Road from Stoneleigh and Bagington falls 
into this, at the Toll-gate— beyond which, from the sum- 
mit of a gentle rise, Coventry appears to view, with its 
crowded buildings and numerous spires and towers, dis- 
played in nearly its whole extent from east to west. — The 
four last miles of this road are shaded, on each side, by a 
fine plantation of young and flourishing trees, forming a 
noble avenue, much in the style, it has been remarked, of 
those of France, Flanders, and Germany. 

From Coventry, — four miles on the Binley Road, is 
Combe Abbey, the seat of Lord Craven— seven miles on 
the Birmingham Road, is Packington, the seat of the 
Earl of Aylesford — and eight miles on the Hinckley 
Road, is Arbury, the seat of F. P. Newdigate, Esq, 

EXCURSION TO STRATFORD BY SHERBOURN. 

The second of the great roads from Warwick— to 
Stratford— eight miles— is equally good as the former, 
and not less pleasant. Commencing from the West-Street, 
it runs, for about a mile, nearly parallel with the noble 
plantations, which form the boundary of Warwick Park: 
and, passing through Longhridge 7 \irnpike, leaves to the 
left, at the second mile, the retired village of Shireburne,* 
so called from a small stream, that runs through it. A 



In our Old English, Shirebume signifies a clear running stream. 



ROUND LEAMINGTON. 34f 

Stratford Road — Fine View — Fulbroke Castle. 

i ■■■ Time 

little beyond this, to the right, is Norbrooke Farm, the 
solitary remains of an ancient village of that name ; and 
on the left, is the rustic entrance into the grounds belong- 
ing to Morville House, the seat of the Rev. Elias Webb. 
About the third mile, the ground rises ; and a prospect, 
more than usually extensive for this flat country, opens, to 
the left, over a wide tract, finely diversified, richly cultivat- 
ed, and well- wooded, through which the Avon pursues its 
winding course. Cireling round, is a pleasing range of hills, 
among which is Edge Hill ; and, in the midst, appear the 
villages of Barford, Wasperton, and Hampton Lucy. In 
the distance are seen Shuckburgh Hills, near Daventry. 
On the right, also, the prospect though more confined is 
pleasing ; and presents, in successive view, the woods of 
Grove Park, and the villages of Hampton~on-the-HUl, 
Upper and Lower Norton, and Snitterfield. The road to 
this latter village bears off, near the 4th mile, to the right. 

On the opposite side of the road ; at a small 
distance, is a considerable eminence, still called Castle 
Hill, distinguished by a small plantation, on which former- 
ly stood the ancient Castle of Fulbroke. This, it is said, 
was built by John, Duke of Bedford, Regent of France, 
third son of Henry IV. It was afterwards in the posses- 
sion of several of the Earls of Warwick. In the reign of 
Henry VIII. the Castle, then in a ruinous state, was 
taken down by Sir William Compton ; the materials 
were thence conveyed to Compton Winy ate ; and there 
employed in the erection of the mansion, which is now 
one of the seats of the Earls of Northampton. — Some 
vestiges of Fulbroke Castle, were discovered, only a few 
years ag;o ; consisting of a brick vault/ with stone steps, 
nearly filled up, and some fragments of Gothic windows. 

X x 2 



348 RIDES AND WALKS 

Packsaddle Hill — Welcombe Lodge. 

Near the sixth mile, is Packsaddle Hill, where a 
second prospect opens to the view, somewhat less varied, but 
scarcely less extensive than the former. The fine spire of 
Stratford Church, rising from the bosom of spreading 
trees, forms nearly the central point, round which a tract 
of country, well wooded and well cultivated, extends ; enli- 
vened by several villages and hamlets, and shut in by Edge 
Hill, and those of Ilmington, Bredon, and Broadway. 

Near the seventh mile, at a small distance, to the 
right, deeply embosomed in the midst of its own hills, 
appears Welcombe Lodge, the seat of George Lloyd, Esq. 
presenting a handsome Gothic front, recently finished ; — 
and, a little further, in a style of elegant rusticity, is the 
entrance into the grounds. The mansion, which is an- 
cient, though still kept in good repair, formerly belonged 
to the family of the Combes ; but, about the beginning of 
the last century, it was purchased by John Lloyd, Esq. 
the father of the present possessor. — Welcombe Hills, form 
a range of proudly swelling mounts, covered for the most 
part with turfted verdure, adorned with fine trees, some 
clustered together, others scattered about. These hills, it 
is said, were anciently the scene of fierce contentions be- 
tween the Britons and the Saxons. The vast entrenchments, 
known by the name of dingles or dells, supposed to .be 
made by the latter, still remain. They are large excava- 
tions in the earth, sometimes to the depth of forty or fifty 
feet ; extending to a great length in one direction, from 
which a shorter branch projects in another. # Through a 
part of these entrenchments, the approach to the house is 
pleasingly conducted. — Near the mansion, is a smaller 



* The whole together resembles in form, the letter Y. 



ROUND LEAMINGTON. 349 



Welcombe Hills — Approach to Stratford. 



hill, entirely different in its appearance from the rest, 
to which the name of IVelcombe is more usually £iven. 
It is of conical form ; and seems evidently the work of 
human labour,* immense as that labour must have been. 
It is with much probability supposed to be a cumulus, thrown 
up by the soldiers, J after their battles, over the remains of 
their slaughtered companions. § It is now richly cloathed 
by flourishing plantations ; and its summit is crowned by 
a small tower — from which, as well as from all the higher 
grounds, is commanded a diversified and most enchanting 
prospect, extending to a wide circumference over the 
whole surrounding country.— About a mile from Welcombe 
Lodge, is the mean and unsightly entrance into Stratford 
— a town so highly distinguished, and so justly proud of 
its distinction — as the place where 

" Sweetest Shakespeare, Fancy's chilrf, 



Warbled his native wood notes wild !" 
EXCURSION TO STRATFORD, BY CHARLECOTE. 

This road, branches off from the usual Strafford 
road, at the first Turnpike : near which is Longbridge 
House, the seat of William Staunton, Esq. — At a short 
distance thence, an insignificant stream, crossing the road, 
divides the hamlet of Longbridge, from the neighbour- 
ing parish of Sherbourn ; and at the further distance of 



* There is a similar artificial hill near the Church at Scckingdon, in the northern part 
«f this county. It h forty-three feet high, and twenty-three broad at top. Near this, it is 
known, a battle in the Saxon times was fought. Such hills are not uncommon in Wiltshire, 
■where they are called Barrows. In these human bones have been often found. 

£ Two ancient spears were found in this place, only a few years ago, which are now m 
the possession of John Lloyd, Eiq. 

$ Ei legi in usu fuisse sepientrionalibus, ut singuli milites proclio superstates ':• 
terrae quantum casside capere poterant in occisorum tumulus aggerererit.— Camden. 



350 RIDES AND WALKS 



Barford — Wasperton — Charlecote. 



about half a mile, on the right hand, appears the neat vil- 
lage church ; adjoining which is a good house, the pro- 
perty of Thomas Webb Edge, Esq. of Strelly, in Not- 
tinghamshire, and the present residence of the Rev. Henry 
Blackburne. 

Approaching towards Barford, on a bold and 
delightful eminence, to the left, is seen the spacious and 
beautiful mansion of Charles Mills, Esq. one of the 
Kepresentatives of the Borough of Warwick. Crossing a 
good stone bridge^ lately erected, Barford itself opens to 
view — in which are several good houses, and one large and 
handsome, with an elegant Italian front.— From Barford, 
the road is carried along the high banks of the Avon — - 
whose winding waters again beautifully appear, encircling 
and fertilizing some of the richest meadow grounds in the 
kingdom. Near the fourth mile, is indistinctly seen, to 
the right, amidst the greenwood shade, the small church 
of Wasperton; aiid about a mile farther, the majestic 
groves of Charlecote, strikingly rise to view. 

Here, leaving the main road, and turning to the 
right, through a gateway, shaded on each side by a small 
plantation — a long avenue of noble trees conducts into the 
pleasant village of Charlecote. The large and venerable 
mansion of the Lucy family presents itself boldly to view, 
from several points, in passing through the village. It 
was built in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, by Sir Thomas 
Lucy, so well known as the prosecutor of Shakespeare — 
who, in a youthful frolic, had stolen his deer ; and after- 
wards, in revenge for his supposed severity, had published 
against him, some rude and bitter lampoons. Adjoining 
the park — the early haunts of the immortal bard — is the 



ROUND LEAMINGTON. 351 

Alveston — Approach to Stratford — The Bridge. 

Church — rustic in its exterior appearance, bat adorned 
within by several handsome monuments of the Lucy 
family — and by a large painted window of indifferent 
execution. 

From Charlecote, crossing a handsome stone 
bridge, the road winds round the boundary of the noble 
Park — every where shaded with deep and lofty woods, and 
enlivened with herds of the finest deer. About two miles 
from Stratford, is Alveston, adorned with several hand- 
some villas ; of which one, to the right, is the residence of 
Sir Gray Skipwith, Bart. ; another, on the same side, is 
the residence of General Jenkinson ; and a third, to the 
left is Baraset House, the newly-erected seat of William 
Harding, Esq. This place is so much noted for the sa- 
lubrity of its air, that the late Dr. Perry scrupled not to 
call it the Montpelier of England. 

Approaching towards Strafford, the meanderings 
of the Avon, once more beautifully appear ; and, beyond 
them, a fine view is obtained of the Welcomhe Hills. — The 
entrance into Stratford, is over a venerable stone bridge, 
of fourteen arches, erected by Sir Hugh Clopton, Lord 
Mayor of London, in the reign of Henry VII. whose an- 
cestors had long been seated at Clopton House, near this 
town. In the center of the bridge, is a stone pillar, on 
which are cut the arms of the city of London above, and 
those of the Cloptons below. This bridge has lately been 
repaired : and, though the ancient inscription* has at 
present disappeared, it is hoped, it will be speedily 
restored. 



* " Sir Hugh Clopton, Knight, Lord Major of London, built (his bridge at his owtt 
proper charge, in the reign of Henry VII." 



352 EJDES AND WALKS 



Kineion Road—Fine View— Walton Rail. 



EXCURSION TO KINETON AND EDGE HILL. 

The road to Kineton — twelve miles — is excellent, 
as far as Wettest our ne, about a mile beyond Charlecote 
Woods— to which pointy we have already traced It, 

Leaving Welleshourne — the soil soon changes from 
gravel to whitish clay, said to be intermixed with fuller s 
earth, and the road is not so good : l)ut the face of the 
surrounding country assumes a new and interesting cha- 
racter. The ground, especially to the right, appears fine- 
ly diversified — rising into boldly-swelling mounts — and 
again sinking into small retiring vales or narrow glens — 
and the rich verdure is every where crowned with noble 
trees and flourishing young plantations. Ascending the 
hill— to the left — an extensive and beautiful prospect 
opens, over a tract of high cultivation, interspersed with 
woods ; and the wide expanse is encircled by a range of 
azure hills, which form a pleasing undulating line — bound- 
ing; the whole. 

Near this part of the road — though not visible 
from it — to the right, at some distance, is Walton Hall, 
the seat of Sir Charles Mordaunt, Bart, one of the 
Members for the County. The mansion occupies a low 
and secluded, but pleasing situation: and though ancient, 
yet recent improvements have rendered it commodious and 
handsome.*— Between the second and third mile from 



* Within the domains of Walton, were dug up, in 1774, three sculls, lying in a row, 
and with them two Saxon jewels, set in gold. One of thesie had on both sides a cross, 
placed between two human figures, with a sword or lance, in the outer hand of each : the 
other was set w'v.U an opal and two rubies An inscription on one of these was explained 
l)y Dr. PtGGE, to mean Mary arid Oswald ; refening, lie supposed, to St. Oswald* 
patron of Worcester, a> if struck bv Wolstan, Bishop of that See ,• about 3088. 



ROUND LEAMINGTON. 353 

Compton Verney, seat of Lord Willoughby de Broke. 

Kineton, the road is intersected by the great Roman Fosse 
Way, extending in a long strait line from Cirencester, to 
High- Cross, in Leicestershire. 

Descending the hill — is Compton- Verney, anci- 
ently Compton-Murdak : of which names, the first part is 
received from its low situation ;* and the second, from its 
two most distinguished possessors. Of Murdak, the 
more ancient of the two families, the first who obtained 
possession of this estate was Robert Murdak, in the 
reign of Henry I. from whom it was transmitted down 
to his descendants ; till, in the reign of Edward III. it 
was granted to the celebrated Alice Perers, the King's 
mistress, and afterwards the wife of Sir William Wind- 
sor. On the marriage of one of his daughters, to Robert 
Skene, of Kings ton-upon-Thames, the estate was trans- 
ferred to him ; who, however, soon afterwards disposed of 
it to Richard Verney, Esq. the ancestor of the present 
family. One of his descendants, Richard Verney, Esq. 
in 1691, obtained the title of Baron Willoughby de Broke, 
in right of his maternal ancestor, who was sister to Fulk 
Lord Brooke. He died in 17 11> at the advanced age 
of 91 : and was succeeded by George Verney, D. D. 
Dean of Windsor, who died in 1728. Richard, his son, 
was the next successor ; on whose decease, in 1752, without 
male issue, the title and estate descended to his nephew, 
John Peyto Verney, the present Lord, who in 1763, was 
appointed one of the Lords of his Majesty's Bedchamber. 

Compton House, the seat of this virtuous and 
venerable nobleman, was erected about the year 1751 : of 



* Cetm or Cwrn signifies a vale or any low iiUiatlcii. 

V Y 



354 RIDES AND WALKS 

Kington — Meeting of Charles I. and his Queen. 

which the exterior, though not magnificent, is spacious 
and handsome; and the interior is commodious rather 
than splendid. The hall, however, is a noble room, of 
ample dimensions and just proportions: highly embellished 
with paintings in pannels, by the celebrated Italian artist, 
Zucchero, representing views in his own native country- 
Adjoining the house, is a beautiful domestic Chapel. 
The surrounding pleasure grounds are of great extent and 
agreeably varied; wood, in rich abundance, and a fine 
expanse of water unite to form and complete a silvan 
scene, truly delightful. In the green-house, is seen a 
choice collection of exotics ; and almost all the species of 
heaths, known to botanists, are here exhibited in pleasing 
arrangement. Among the objects of curiosity, is a cork 
tree, of large size and fine form, which grows vigorously, 
though under a climate so different from its own, in one of 
the parterres, near the house. 4 

About a mile from Compton, is the small town of 
Kington, or Kineton, so denominated, according to Cam- 
den, from the traffic in kine, for which it was formerly 
noted; as the neighbouring Shipston, is from that of 
sheep. But Dugdale traces its name to the circumstance 
of its having been a royal domain, so far back as the time 
of Edward the Confessor, and William the CoNauE- 
ror. Anciently, a castle stood on a hill, to the north-east 
of the town ; where, as tradition tells, King John occa- 
sionally resided ; and, at the foot of it, is a well, still called 
King John's JVelL In the vale of Kineton, a meeting 
took place between King Charles I. and his Queen, 
Henrietta Maria, July 13, 1643. Elated by some re- 
cent success which had attended his arms, from this place, 
the King and Queer* ^ seeded to Oxford, and entered 



ROUND LEAMINGTON. 355 



Extensive View from Edge HUL 



that city together, in a triumphant manner. In comme- 
moration of this meeting, under such auspicious circum- 
stances, a medal was struck, which is still in existence.* 
— Here are held a weekly market, and two annual fairs. 
The population is about 800. 

About two miles beyond Kineton, is Edge Hitt 9 
rising abruptly, amidst an extensive tract comparatively 
level, and forming a steep lofty ridge — whence it obtains 
its name. It stretches in a long range of about five miles ; 
and commands a prospect of vast extent over this and the 
adjacent counties — including, in the whole, no less than 
eleven-^-besides the more remote hills, in two of the Welch 
counties ; which are, also, to be discerned, though some- 
what indistinctly, in a clear day. Warwick Castle and 
Coventry Spires are among the distinct objects ; and, still 
more distantly, in a wide circumference, are to be seen 
Stow Hill, in Gloucestershire ; Bredon, Broadway, and 
Malvern, in Worcestershire ; the Wrekin, in Shropshire ; 
the Bar don Hills, in Leicestershire ; and Shuckburgh Hills, 
on tbe borders of Northamptonshire. 

Within a nearer view, is Compton Winy ate, the seat 
of Compton, Marquis of Northampton : in whose family 
the possession of this estate has been ever since the time 
of King John. It is a large but irregular house^ built 



* An engraving of this historical medal, mav be seen in Evelyn's Discourse cf Medals, 
page 711. The medal itself, which is unique, is in I he same cabinet, with the coin of 
Harthacnut, mentioned in page 3, of this work. The obverse reprrsents the Kino 
and Queen sitting with joined hand", trampling upon the Dragon Python, with this circum- 
scription, certivs. pythonem. jvncti. The reverse consists of the following inscrip- 
tion, XIII. IVL. CAROL. ET. MAJgJA. M. *. F. ET. II. K. R. IN. VAT.I.E. KRINT0X, 
AVSPICAT. OCCVRRE. NT. EX. FVGATO. IN. OCCIOENi. REBELLITW, VICT, l.V, PAC* 
OMEN. OXON. MDCXLIII. 

y y 2 



358 RIDES AND WALKS 

I. num.HIJI Ill H' l MMH ■■■ ■I I MM I - IIII ■ , 1 I . ■■ II !■ M IBI H1 Mi l W1 III l lll l I ■ wm wu y - 

Compton Winyate— Artificial Ruins. 
*■ ' ' ' ' ' J=^S 

in tlie reign of Henry VIII. with materials, brought from 
the ruins of Fulhroke Castle, The chimneys are formed 
in spires and zigzags ; and over the porch of the principal 
entrance, are the arms of England and France, supported 
by a griffin and a greyhound. — Of this family was Dr. 
Henry Compton, the truly amiable and excellent Bishop 
of London, who was born at this place, in 1632, and 
died 1713. 

Near the centre of Edge Hill— -purposely erected 
for the accommodation of those who wish to enjoy the 
prospect — is a spacious and well-conducted Inn, called the 
Rising Sun. From this place, on a natural terrace, form- 
ed along the edge of the hill, pleasing walks are carried, 
occasionally sheltered by trees and underwood, whence the 
prospect may be contemplated from various points. About 
a mile from the Inn, are the artificial ruins of a castle, 
constructed by R. S. Millar, Esq. ; whose house, built 
by himself, and now the residence of his son, F. S. Mil- 
lar, Esq. is situated, near the church, at Radway, in the 
vale below. From the upper room, in the round tower, 
which form part of these ruins, the grand and extensive 
prospect is seen to tbe best advantage. The windows of 
this room are filled with painted glass ; and the ceiling is 
ornamented with the arms of the Saxon Kings and those 
of several neighbouring gentlemen. 

Immediately before this tower, in the vale below, 
was the scene of the memorable battle between the Royal 
and the Parliamentary forces, which was fought on Sunday, 
the 23rd Day of October, 1S42, as mentioned in a former 
part of this work. A farm house called Battle Farm, 
.ghews the exact spot. Not less than 20,000 men, it is said, 



ROUND LEAMINGTON. 35; 

Battle of Edge Hill. 

were engaged in this unhappy contest : and of these, 
according to the common statement, five thousand were 
left dead in the field ; but more accurate accounts re- 
duce the amount to half that number. A small plan- 
tation of firs marks the place where five hundred of 
the slaughtered victims were promiscuously thrown into 
a pit : and another small plantation distinguishes the 
site of a cottage, in which the two young princes, af- 
terwards Charles II. and James II. remained during 
the battle. In this engagement, on the side of the King, 
the Earl of Lindsey, general of his army, was mor- 
tally wounded, and taken prisoner : and his son, Lord 
Willoughry, attempting his rescue, fell into the enemy's 
hands. Sir Edmond Verney, the king's standard bearer, 
was killed, and the standard taken, which was afterwards 
retaken by Sir John Smith, who was created, on this 
occasion, a Knight Banneret. Lord Aubigny, brother 
to the Duke of Richmond, and other distinguished per- 
sonages were also killed. A handsome monument, erected 
to the memory of one of these, Captain Kingsmill, was 
lately removed from the church-yard, into the church of 
Radical/. — The event of this mournful contest, it is now 
generally admitted, was indecisive : though both parties, 
at the time, strenuous! v maintained that the advantage 
remained with them. We have seen no fewer than six 
printed tracts, published at that period; in which the 
action is variously detailed ; and in which each party claim 
the honor of the victory, and impute to their opponents, 
the greater loss in the number of the killed and wounded. 
It is, however, sufficiently understood that Lord Essex, the 
leader of the Parliamentary army, was the first to with- 
draw from the field of battle; but that the greater propor- 
tion of officers of distinction fell on the side of the Roval- 



358 RIDES AND WALKS 



Red Horse — Annual ceremony of Scouring it. 



ists ; and that both parties were glad to retire, on the suc- 
ceeding day, without attempting to renew the contest. 
Pieces of armour, bucklers, spear-heads, sword-handles, 
skulls, and bones, have been frequently turned up by the 
plough, and are still occasionally found. 

To the left of the Inn, at the distance of a mile, 
nearly opposite Tysoe church, rudely cat on the side of a 
hill, was, till lately, the figure of a horse : which, from 
the colour of the soil, was termed the red horse; and the low 
grounds, adjacent, are still called the red horse vale. The 
dimensions of the figure were, from the croup to the chest, 
thirty-four feet ; from the ears to the shoulder, fourteen 
feet ; and from the shoulder to the ground, sixteen feet. 
A farm, near it, called Red Horse Farm, was held, on 
condition of scouring the figure, which was to be don© 
annually, on Palm Sunday ; when the country people,, 
who assisted in the ceremony, were usually regaled with 
cakes and ale. It was on that day, 1461, that the battle 
of Towton was fought ; previously to which, Richard 
Neville, Earl of Warwick, is said to have killed his 
horse, with his own hand, to shew his determined purpose 
of sharing all the dangers of the fight, equally with the 
meanest of his soldiers. As a memorial of the victory, 
thus achieved, this gigantic figure is thought to have been 
originally formed, and the obligation of scouring it im- 
posed. Lately, however, that obligation has been set 
aside ; and the old figure of the horse has been obliterated. 
Another of the same form and dimensions has, indeed, 
since been cut, on a part of the hill, nearer to the Inn : 
but as the annual scouring is now become a mere matter 
of choice, it may be expected that this very ancient cus« 
torn will soon disappear. 



ROUND LEAMINGTON. 359 

Wellsbourne Hastings — Church — Parsonage House. 

From Edge Hill to Wellsboitrne, on the return to 
Warwick, a shorter and hetter road than that through 
Kineton, will be found through Pillerton and Eatington. 

EXCURSION TO HALFORD BRIDGE. 

This road is the same as the Kineton, as far as 
Wellsbourne — where it turns to the right — passing through 
the whole extent of the village. 

WELLSRouRNE-HASTT\r T s derives the first part of 
its name from the small stream* which runs through it 
in its way to join the Avon ; and the second from the 
ancient family of the Hastings, to whom it was granted 
by one of the Norman Earls of Warwick. It is a consi- 
derable village ; and in these days of multiplied and 
immense taxation, derives no small consequence, from the 
meeting of the Commissioners held in it for the Hundred 
of Kineton — whither, on such occasions, crowds of murmur- 
ing appellants usually resort. Here is a handsome country 
church, originally built by Henry de Newburg, Earl of 
Warwick, still preserved in excellent repair. Its tower, 
clothed with ivy from its base to its summit, is beautifully 
picturesque : and one or two marble tablets placed against 
it — consecrated to the memory of some of the Dewes's 
family — skreened and shrouded amidst the dark-shaded 
verdure — strikingly appear. Near the church, most ru- 
rally situated, is the Parsonage- House, pleasingly over- 
hung with clustering ivy, and delightfully sheltered beneath 
the umbrageous arms of lofty elms. The present possessor, 
the Vicar of the parish, is honorably known to the public, 



* Bume in \\,t Sdxo:; is the same as torrens in llic Latin. — Di'cnAf. 



36o RIDES AND WALKS 

I I !■ ■■■I .L. .I 1 II. . II WH — »i ■ ' I i j i I I III ' ——i ll I : 

Fine View beyond Wellsbourne, 

by three admirable discourses^ published during the earlier 
periods of the late war — in which, a solemn protest, ably 
supported by the united powers of argument and eloquence, 
is delivered against the shameless but too frequent perver- 
sions of War-Fasts, to the detestable purposes of exciting 
or promoting, at home, the spirit of suspicion and intole- 
rance, and abroad, the mad ambition of conquest, and the 
horrible and wicked thirst of bloodshed. — Near the southern 
extremity of the village, is the handsome seat of Bernard 
Dewes, Esq. one of the most intelligent and active ma- 
gistrates of the county. His brother, the late Court 
Dewes, Esq. is known to the public as the intimate friend 
of the celebrated Miss Seward ; in whose family she often 
visited, and to whom, many of her letters, published not 
long ago, are addressed. This excellent man, though he 
never appeared as an author, it is said, on so great an au- 
thority as that of Dr. Parr, was critically skilled in Greek, 
Latin, French, and Italian: and his taste was pure and 
correct. 

Leaving Wellsbonrne — ascending the hill, about a 
mile distant— the confined though pleasing views which 
Warwickshire usually presents, are exchanged for the 
higher pleasures which more extended and varied prospects 
afford. Here, to the left, a fine tract of verdant champaign 
country, stretching in a vast circumference is seen; in every 
part richly fertile, embellished with beautiful wood- 
scenery, and encompassed by a vast circle of hills, " gra- 
dually receding from the eye, and melting in the etherial 
distance." 



* «* Two Sermons preached on the Public Fasts of April, 1793, and Feb. 1794."-— 
« « War the Stumbling Block of a Christian,' bv the Rev. I. H. Williams, L. L. J3. Vicar 
•f Wel!sbourne.' , . 



ROUND LEAMINGTON. 361 

Eating ton — Eatington Half. 

About three miles further, a modern-built Church, 
seated on a bleak and solitary eminence, announces the 
approach to Upper Eating fori — from which, however, it 
is widely, and, for the parishioners, inconveniently disjoin- 
ed. This is a long scattered village, with some good farm 
houses ; and, besides the episcopal church, affords two 
places of Dissenting Worship. 

At the distance of another mile, to the right, is 
Eatington- Hall, the seat of Evelyn John Shirley, Esq. 
whose ancestors were here seated so long ago as the period 
of the Norman Conquest : and " it is the only place" says 
Dugdale, " which glories in an uninterrupted succession 
of owners for so long a tract of time." Sewallis, the 
first of this very ancient family, is described by Dugdale, 
as a Saxon Thane of great power, and vast possessions. 
In the reign of Henry III. his descendants first assumed 
the name of Shirley, from a place of the same name 
which belonged to them in Derbyshire : and, in the reign 
of Queen Anne, Robert Shirley, who had already 
obtained the title of Bctron Ferrers of Chart ley, in right 
of his maternal ancestor, was advanced to the higher 
dignities of Viscount Tamivorth and Earl Ferrers. In 
an elder branch of the same family, who are seated at 
Chartley Castle, Staffordshire, and at Staunton Harold, 
Leicestershire, these titles still continue. 

Eatington Hall is a large, ancient, and venerable 
mansion, to which considerable additions have been made, 
in later times. It is very irregular in its exterior appear- 
ance ; but amply affords, within, all the suitable accommo- 
dations for a gentleman of family and fortune. The en- 
trance hall is appropriately adorned with a small collection 

z z 



362 RIDES AND WALKS 



Lower Eatington Church — Great Roman Fosse Way. 



of old English armour. The drawing room is a spacious 
and elegant apartment ; richly embellished with numerous 
paintings, many of them by the hands of the great masters 
of ancient and modern times. The library contains a good 
though not large collection of books ; and the museum of 
natural history, adjoining, exhibits, in pleasing arrangement 
and considerable variety, beautiful specimens of birds, 
beasts, insects, and fossils. Near the house is an extensive 
park, well shaded with trees, in some parts, ornamented 
with remarkably fine hawthorns ; and, every where, enli- 
vened by herds of deer. Immediately adjoining, are the re- 
mains of Lower Eatington church, consisting of the walls 
of the tower, and several noble arches of early Norman ar- 
chitecture, pleasingly overhung with clustering ivy. In the 
chancel, which is still entire, is a splendid monument of 
white marble, consecrated to the memory of Robert, Earl 
Ferrers, great grandfather of the present possessor of 
Eatington. Placed on each side of a marble tablet, charged 
with an English inscription, are the figures of the Earl 
and his Countess, extremely fine ; and, above, is that cf 
their descendant, by whom this monument was erected. 

Approaching Halford Bridge, the road falls into 
the great Roman Fosse Way — carried in a long strait line, 
from High Cross, on the Wtxtling- Street road, in Leices- 
ter shire, to this place — whence it pursues its progress ; 
forming, in great part, the turnpike road through Stow and 
Northleach, terminating at Cirencester. Its structure, 
when examined, is found to be a layer of stones at the 
bottom, and a stratum of gravel upon it. It is said to 
have been originally formed in the time of Adrian, about 
seventeen hundred years ago : and, in much of its course, 
it still remains almost as firm and compact as when first 



ROUND' LEAMINGTON. 363 

Half or (1 Bridge — Wedgnock Park. 

constructed. About twelve or fourteen inches under its 
lower stratum, skeletons, and with them swords or spears,, 
have sometimes been discovered. 

Halford, was, anciently, according to Dugdale, 
Old Ford; so named from the Ford over the little river 
Siour, near it, — whose place, however, has long been more 
conveniently supplied by a stone bridge ; which itself 
shews marks of antiquity, in its structure, and in its decays. 
— This is a small sequestered village, with a good old 
church; and is chiefly noted for its pleasant and well 
regulated Inn, and its delightful and well kent Bowling 
Green — the resort, during the summer season, of the 
neighbouring gentry. 

EXCURSION THROUGH HATTON TO KNOWLE. 

The fourth great road from Warwick — to Knowle, 
— 10 miles — is generally good : and leads through a well 
cultivated country, though intermixed with some extensive 
heaths; most of which, are, however, about to be inclosed. 
Passing the turnpike — to the left, is the newly-erected 
mansion of John Edwards, Esq. built in a style of much 
elegance, seated on a delightful eminence, and command- 
ing, from its windows, and from all its higher grounds, 
enchanting prospects. On the right, for nearly a mile, is 
the ancient Wedgnock Park; originally enclosed by 
Henry de Newburg, Earl of Warwick, in the reign of 
Henry I; and said to be the second of the kind in the 
kingdom; of which, Woodstock Park, formed by the King 
himself was the first. It is now, with one small exception, 
converted to the more useful purposes of agriculture 5 
though it still retains the name of the Old Park. 

Z Z 2 



364 RIDES AND WALKS 

m* M> u ^»iLjm.w < mtia mKimBKBB!m i bhhumuumm ii h i» n i , uM. m iummJuuu m mnumimiim , mMai m au mun i ii II I w mn — nwn i mm m a r 

View from Hatton Hill — Hat ton. 

A little beyond the second mile, is Hatton Hill ; 
from which an extensive and diversified prospect is obtain- 
ed^ over the fertile tract that surrounds Warwick; in every 
part highly cultivated, and finely wooded; encircled by 
gently-rising hills ; and terminated, in the distance, by 
Shuckburgh Hill on one side, and Edge Hill on the other. 

Hatton, originally, according to Dugdale, Heath 
Town, so named from the heathy tract, near which it 
stands, was anciently part of the vast domain of Henry 
de Newburg: and of him was held by Hugh de Hatton, 
who fixed his principal seat in it, and assumed from it his 
surname. In default of male issue, by the marriage of 
one of the female heirs, the estate passed into the family 
of the Clintons : and finally reverted to that of Beau- 
champ, Earls of Warwick. But part of the lands, 
together with the church, was granted to the Nuns of 
Wrox hall Abbey : and, in their possession, continued, till 
the time of the Dissolution. 

Hatton is a small village, but highly distinguished 
as the chosen residence, for so many past years, of one of 
the greatest scholars, and most enlightened men of the pre- 
sent age. It is hardly necessary to subjoin the name of the 
Rev. Dr. Parr — of whom, it still remains to be regretted, 
that no literary work has yet proceeded from his pen,* 



* Yet the following, it must be gratefully acknowledged, is no scanty list of works, 
with which the learned Doctor has already favoured the public. — A Sermon on Education, 
preached at Norwich — A Sermon-, called Phileleutheros Norfolciensis, which the writer is 
said to consider as his best composition. — A second and much larger Discourse on Education, 
wiih copious notes. These were published during his residence at Norwich. — Since his 
residence at Hatton, he has published a Spital Sermon, .which, with the notes, would form 
a common 8vo. Vol.— A Fast Sermon — A Letter from Irenopolis to the Inhabitants of Eleu. 
theropolis. — A Letter to a neighbouring Clergyman-) in which a variety of topics, literary and 



ROUND LEAMINGTON. 365 



Hntton Parsonage — Hat ton Church, 



worthy to transmit a, name of so much celebrity, with all 
its due honour, to a distant posterity. The Parsonage 
House, where in studious and dignified retirement he has 
so long resided, is a commodious dwelling ; and contains 
one noble room, built by himself, richly furnished with an 
extensive and valuable library, in which a fine collection of 
all the great works in the department of verbal criticism, 
classical literature; and theology, hold a pre-eminent station. 

At a small distance from the Parsonage House, is 
the pleasing village church ; in which this very learned 
Divine performs clerical duty, with all the attentive regu- 
larity, and all the solicitous care, of the most exemplary 
parish priest. The interior is embellished, chiefly by his 
taste and liberality, with every suitable decoration ; espe- 
cially in the beautiful painted glass, with which the 
windows are adorned. Of the numerous monumental in- 



political are discussed. — A jet larger work, addressed to a Co-editor, in which he vindicates 
his honour from unjust aspersion, and delivers his opinion upon many interesting topics of 
literature and criticism. — Tracts of Warburton and a IV arburtom an, of which the preface 
and dedication abound with proofs of his erudition, taste, and wit; and of which the com- 
position has been much admir?d. — A Latin Preface, to some learned tractsof Bellcndenus. — 
•' Characters of Charles James Fox" — 2 vols. 8vo. of which the first vol. closes with a portrait 
ef that greatest of modern statesmen, pleasingly and powerfully delineated by the Editor 
himself; and the second, consisting who'ly of notes, contains, amidst much valuable in- 
struction on many interesting and important subjects, a masterly discussion of a question, 
in which the justice, tbe policy, and the humanity of this country are equally and highly 
concerned, viz. the state of i;s criminal code. — In the "Monthly Review and British Critic, 
are also several articles from his pen. — But he is indebted for much of his literary fame to 
his great skill in wri'iig Latin and English Inscriptions; of which the number already 
amounts to thirty ; and among which, three — to the memory of Mr. Gibbon t ,Dr. John- 
son, and Sir John Moore— are highly distinguished, and two — to the memory of Mr. 
BunsE and Mr. Fox — are said to be written with great effort, but have not seen the light. 
His MS. Sermons and discussions u; on many points of literature and metaphysics, aro 
Inown to his friends to be numerous ; but he seems to have a peculiar and almost invinci- 
ble dislike to publica:ion ; and there is unhappily a rumour that all his M5S. arc ordered to 
Le destroyed, after lus decease. ^^ 



366 RIDES AND WALKS 



Pleasing View near Hat ton — Wroxhall Abbey. 



sciiptions, suspended round the walls, several are proved, 
by their classical purity and elegance, to be the produc- 
tion of his pen : and of these, three are consecrated to the 
memory of the members* of his own family, all of whom 
it is his melancholy fate to survive ! 

About a mile from Hatton, to the right, a pleas- 
ing view of a well-wooded country presents itself; in the 
midst of which, are seen the ivied towers and battlements 
of Kenilworth Castle, magnificent even in its ruins. 

Six miles from Warwick, is Wroxliall Abbey, one 
of the very few religious houses in England, appropriated 
to the reception of female devotees. It was founded in the 
reign of Stephen, by Hugh de Hatton ; by whom, and 
by many other benefactors, it was liberally endowed. The 
Nuns were of the Benedictine order: and, for a long suc- 
cession of ages, their establishment flourished in wealth 
and reputation; till, at the period so fatal to all monastic 
institutions, it was dissolved. Dugdaie indignantly de- 
plores the barbarous and unhallowed violence, which sub- 
verted this, amongst so many other ci goodly structures" of 
the same kind in England: and, with more reason, laments 
the unfeeling severity, which drove, from their peaceful 
retreats, the members of this holy sisterhood, without the 
slightest provision for their future support — the Prioress 
only excepted, whose name was Ann Little, and who 
obtained a small pension for life. 

The site of Wroxliall Abbey, the Church, and the 
surrounding domains, were granted in the reign of Henry 

* See Appendix, No. 13, 



ROUND LEAMINGTON. 3G\ 



WroxhaU Church — Venerable Oak. 



VIII. to Robert Burgoyne, and John Scudamore ; by 
the former of whom, the present mansion was erected, in 
the style of architecture, prevailing in the reign of Eliza- 
beth. In 1713, this mansion, with all its manerial rights, 
was purchased by the highly celebrated Sir Christopher 
Wren : the second in order of time, but the first in talent 
and fame of our great English architects ; of whom it is con- 
cisely and forcibly said;, by Lord Orford that tfi a variety 
of knowledge proclaims the universality, a multiplicity of 
works the abundance, and St. PauVs the greatness of his 
genius." The estate still remains in the possession of his 
descendant, Christopher Wren, Esq. by whom the an- 
cient manor house, long left in a neglected state, has 
been lately ordered to be repaired, with a view, it is 
said, to his own future residence in the seat of his great 
ancestor. 

Wroxhall Church is a £ood old structure, form- 
ing the side of a square, of which the buildings of the 
Abbey itself form the other three sides. The windows are 
adorned with painted glass, extremely fine ; of which the 
figures of Moses and Aaron, for the beauty of the drapery, 
and the splendour of the colouring, are particularly admi- 
red. Within the church, are monumental inscriptions to 
the memory of several of the Wren family. 

A little beyond a small Inn, called Tom d Bedlam, 
is a venerable oak, said to be 200 years old ; measuring in 
the girth, twenty yards, and of which one of the spreading 
arms extends over a road thirty feet wide. 

About a mile from the same Inn — to the left — is 
Baddesley Clinton Hall, the seat of Edwaiid Ferrers, 





368 RIDES AND WALKS 



Baddesley-Ctinton Hall. 

Esq. According to an old historical document,* still 
carefully preserved in it, this ancient mansion received its 
first name from Bade, a Saxon, who resided here in the 
days of Edward the Confessor ; and its second, from 
Sir Thomas de Clinton, of Cos hill, who obtained it in 
the reign of Henry III. in right of his wife, Maze 1 r a, 
daughter and heiress of James de Besege. After vari- 
ous transmissions, it became, in the reign of Henry IV. 
by purchase, the property of John Brome, a wealthy 
lawyer of Warwick, who lived in a house at the south end 
of the Bridge, which long retained the name of Brome 
Place. On his death, the consequence of a wound he 
received in a dispute with one John Hearthill, his son, 
Nicholas, succeeded as Lord of the Manor of Baddesley : 
and, by the marriage of Constance, his daughter, with 
Sir Edward Ferrers, grandson of Sir Thomas Ferrers 
of Tamworth Castle— the estate passed into the possession 
of this family, in which it has ever since remained. 

Few of all the great families of England, can boast 
of a higher or more illustrious descent, than that of the 
Ferrers'. Originally of Norman extraction, the first of 
the family settled in this country, was Henry de Ferrers, 
who came over with the Congiueror, and obtained from 
him vast possessions in TVarwicksldre, and other counties. 



* This curious Document is in verse, written in the- reign of Queen Elizabeth, by 
Henry Ferrers, Esq. of BaddesUy, who is honorably mentioned by Dugdale, as an 
eminent antiquarian ; and, what is still higher praise, as a man of distinguished worth, 
reflecting lustre on the ancient and noble family to which he belonged. By the learned 
Cabiden, also, a testimony, equally honorab!e ; is recorded, both to his extensive knowledge 
of antiquities, and to his excellence of character, in the Britannia, Gough's Ed. v, 2, 
p. 447. He died October 10, 1633, and lies bu.icd in the chancel of Baddesley Church. 
By the favor of his descendant, the present Major Ferrcrs, this document is giveuiu 
the Appendix, Nw. 14. 



ROUND LEAMINGTON. 369 



Baddeslci/ Clinton Hall. 



In the reign of Stephen, his son, Robert de Ferrers, 
was ad\ T anced to the dignity of Earl of Derby ; and this 
title was transmitted down to his descendants, till in the 
reign of Henry III. it was forfeited by Robert, the sixth 
in succession, after his second revolt, which ended in his 
defeat, at the battle of Chesterfield, In the following 
reign, his family regained the royal favor ; and Wtlliam, 
his brother, and John, his son, were summoned to Par- 
liament, by the titles, the one of Lord Ferrers of Chart- 
ley, and the other of Lord Ferrers of Groby. In failure 
of male issue, by the marriage of female heirs, the former 
of these titles passed into the family, first of the Deve- 
reux, afterwards Earls of Essex; and next of the Shir- 
leys, so long seated at Eatington, in an elder branch o( 
which, it still continues. From William Lord Ferrers 
of Groby, whose title has since become extinct, both the 
Ferrers', of Tamworth Castle, and those of Baddesley 
Clinton, are descended ; and of these, the latter claims the 
honor of being the oldest representatives, in the male 
line, of the noble family to which they belong. 

Baddesley Clinton Hall, is a structure of very 
ancient date, though the time of its erection is not ex- 
actly known. It is a stone building of low elevation, 
but of considerable extent ; forming three sides of a 
square, of which, the fourth side, if it ever existed, has 
long since disappeared. It is surrounded by a moat, over 
which a bridge conducts to the entrance; leading, through 
the lofty arch of an embattled gateway, into the inner 
court. To the left is the venerable hall, which still retains 
the marks of great antiquity in its form and structure, 
and in the curious carvings of its mantle-piece. The 
windows of this apartment, as well as of another adjoin- 

3 \ 



370 RIDES AND WALKS 

'■ ■ ' ' . . . . . ■ , ' ' , . . ??SP 

Baddesley Church, — Knowle — The Church. 

ing room of similar appearance, though of smaller extent, 
are finely adorned with painted glass, representing the 
armorial bearings of the Ferrers', and other families, 
connected with it. Near the hall, is the Village Church 
of humble appearance, in which are several monuments 
of the same ancient and honorable family, and some small 
remains of the fine painted glass, which formerly embel- 
lished it ; and of which the figure of Christ on the Cross, 
extremely fine, with striking architectural decorations in 
the back-ground, is still in a good state of preservation. 

Two miles beyond this, is Knowle, originally Knoll; 
which, therefore, derives its name, like so many other 
Saxon names of places, from its situation. It is a small 
town, standing on elevated ground, in the midst of fertile 
fields. In the reign of King John, this Lordship was in 
the possession of William de Arden : and from one of 
his descendants, it was transferred to Eleanor, consort 
of Ed\vard I ; on whose death, it was granted to the 
Monks of Westminster. In the reign of Richard II. 
the chapel in this village was erected, at his own expense, 
by Walter Cook, Canon of Lincoln, and afterwards of 
St. PauVs, London ; who endowed it with land, sufficient 
for the maintenance of one secular priest* In the follow- 
ing reign, the same pious and benevolent person, establish- 
ed here a chantry of two priests ; founded, also, a Gild, into 
which many personages of high distinction were admitted ; 
and, finally, instituted a college of ten chantry priests. 
But this last establishment seems afterwards, for want of 
proper support, to have declined ; since, at the Dissolution, 
it appears that only two priests then belonged to it. The 
Chapel is of considerable size ; and shews the marks of its 
antiquity in its general form and structure, in its remains 



ROUND LEAMINGTON. 3,»i 

Sprlngjield — Balsall Temple. 

- 

of stained glass, and in the grotesque carved work, which 
forms part of its exterior embellishment. 

About one mile to the right of Knowle, is Spring- 
Jield, the elegant and delightful mansion of Joseph Boult- 
bee, Esq. — and about two miles, is Balsall, usually called 
Balsall Temple : of which the lordship was given, in the 
reign of Henry II. by Roger de Mowbray, to the fra- 
ternity of Knights Templars. These religious knights, 
who obtained their name from the place of their residence, 
fiear the Temple at Jerusalem, and whose professed object 
was the protection of Christian pilgrims resorting to the 
tomb of their Savior, came into England in the reign of 
Henry II. ; and settled first in Holborn, and next in 
Fleet-Street, London, where they built the mansion, still 
called the Temple. By them, the Church at Balsall, was 
erected ; and near it a house, as a preceptory or cell to 
the principal mansion in London; and their valuable 
estate in this place was increased by large additional 
grants of land, in other parts of the county. But this 
order was of no long duration : for, in the reign of Ed- 
ward II. either from a dread of their growing power, or 
in consequence of their own misconduct, they were for- 
mally dissolved ; and their estates at Balsall, were granted 
to another similar order, called K?iights Hospitallers. 
These religious knights derived their name from the hos- 
pital of St. John the Baptist, at Jerusalem ; and their 
profession was, to entertain and to protect persons in 
their pilgrimage to and from the holy city. They had a 
longer and a more prosperous course than the rival knights, 
whom they had supplanted ; and, in their possession, the 
estates at Balsall continued, till the general Dissolution, 
when they were seized by the Crown. In the reign of 

3 a 2 



3/2 RIDES AND WALKS 

■ ' i ' —u " ^— u '■ ■'■■*■■■ " ' "!■" ■ ■"■ SB — « m 

Balsall Hospital- — Balsall Church. 

Elizabeth, this manor was granted to Robert Dudley, 
Earl of Leicester ; and, by the will of his grand-daughter, 
Lady Catherine Leveson, it was appropriated to the 
benevolent purpose of founding an Hospital, for the re- 
ception of indigent women, either unmarried or widows, 
chosen from the inhabitants of the following parishes, 
with a preference to be given to the first, Balsall, Long 
Itching ton, Warwickshire ; Trent ham, Staffordshire; Lil- 
lenhall, Shropshire. This institution is now in a very- 
flourishing state ; its annual income falls little short of 
^1,500 a year; and the number of its alms-women, in- 
creased at different times, amounts at present to thirty. 
The buildings, belonging to it, are extensive and substan- 
tial ; forming a complete square ; and healthfully situated 
on the edge of a spacious and fertile green. The trus- 
tees are the Bishop of Lichfield and Coventry, the Earls 
of Warwick and Aylesford, and several of the most re- 
spectable gentlemen in the county. The whole institution 
is placed under the immediate charge of a master, with a 
salary of ^150 per annum; who, at this time, is the 
Rev. J. Short. 

Balsall Church is an object of peculiar interest, 
to every lover of antiquity ; as it still remains, with little 
change, such as it was at its first erection, nearly seven 
hundred years ago. The form is oblong, measuring one 
hundred and two feet long, thirty-eight broad, and fifty- 
seven high. At the east and west ends are lofty windows, 
with fine pointed arches, extending from the roof nearly to 
the ground; and on the sides are three noble windows. The 
heads of all the windows are adorned with beautiful trace- 
ry, and all dissimilar. There are no divisions within ; and 
the chancel is distinguished from the body of the church, 



ROUND LEAMINGTON. 373 



Rowington — Packwood — Lapzvorth — Hockley. 



only by a floor, rising three steps. The walls are massy 
and covered with vast and irregular clusters of aged ivy ; 
which overshade the windows, and even push their way, 
through broken panes or other small fissures, into the in- 
terior. Over the west door is a low turret ; and, on the 
same side, placed below the cornice, is a row of ten heads, 
in a good state of preservation, accounted to be of excel- 
lent workmanship. — Near the church, is the ancient Hall 
of the Templars, formerly a splendid apartment, but now 
presenting all the humble appearance of a barn. It is 
said to have been one hundred and forty feet long. 

EXCURSION TO HOCKLEY-HOUSE. 

This road branches off from the former at Hattort 
— about two miles beyond which, is the small village of 
Rowington ; written in Doomsday Booh, Rockinton ; so 
named, therefore, from the rocky eminence on which it is 
situated. Close to the road, on the right, loftily rises the 
village church : the ascent to which, is by steps cut in 
the solid rock. Near it is the handsome residence of 
Samuel Aston, Esq. To the left of this village, runs 
the Warwick and Birmingham Canal, carried, in one 
part, at an immense expense of human labour, over a 
deep vale; and in another, through a tunnel of consider- 
able length. 

At about eight miles from Warwick, to the right, 
not visible from the road, is an ancient Manor House, 
called Packwood House, late the residence of Thomas 
Fetherstone, Esq. and to the left, appears the handsome 
spire of Lapworth Church. Two miles beyond is Hockley- 
House, a large and much frequented Inn. M the distance 
of one stasre from Birmingham. 



374 RIDES AND WALKS 

, i ■■ , i , , -««*«« -»■»«— ■ iim .»«— »■ i ' i • :-s 

Umbers lade Hall. 

■ ■ ■ ] ■ *■ 

About a mile from Hockley- House, is Umberslade 
Hall, for many ages, the seat of the ancient and honorable 
family of the Archers. The first of this family who resi- 
ded here, was called bv the Latin name of Robertus 
Sagittarius : and from him descended along and goodly 
race; almost all of whom were highly respectable for their 
private character ; and some of whom were greatly distin- 
guished by their public services, amongst the principal- 
families of this county. In the reign of George IT. 
Thomas Archer was created Lord Archer > Baron of 
Umberslade. His Lordship was succeeded by his son 
Andrew, on whose decease in 1778, without male issue, 
the title became extinct. It is remarkable that this is the 
first instance of the failure of male issue in this family, for 
the space of more than 600 years. 

Umberslade Hall is a stone structure, erected by 
John Smith, about 150 years since; large, substantial, 
and handsome. It is of square form, with two wings, 
slightly projecting from the main body. In the centre of 
the western and principal front, is a grand portico, sup^ 
ported by pillars of the Doric order, and surmounted by a 
bust of the Emperor, Titus Vespasian. In the southern 
front, is a similar portico, above which are the Family 
Arms, surrounded by military trophies. The interior, 
long neglected, and now entirely unfurnished and forsaken, 
still retains the marks of its former grandeur. The Hall, 
in particular, is a noble apartment; and two excellent 
statues, placed in niches, on each side the center door, 
one of Venus, and the other of Apollo, are still to be 
seen. Stretching round the mansion, in a wide circumfe- 
rence, is the Park, now converted to the common purposes 
of agriculture. '"At the ed^e of it, is a fine Obelisk, which 
forms a striking object from the windows of the house. 



ROUND LEAMINGTON. 375 



H a mp ton — G rove Pa r k. 



EXCURSION TO HENLEY-IN-ARDEN. 

Skirting die southern edge of the Race Course, a 
prettv good cross-road commences— leading to this small 
town — ten miles distant. 

About two miles, on the left, is Hampton-on-the- 
Hill — near which, is Grove Park, the seat of the Right 
Hon. Lord Dormer. So long ago as the reign of Edward 
III. this place was known hy the appellation of " La 
Grave ;" and the heautiful wood scenery, by which it is 
surrounded, still gives a propriety to the name. The house 
is spacious, and has all the venerable appearance of anti- 
quity. Till lately it was encompassed by a moat, and 
entered over a drawbridge ; but these, no longer neces- 
sary as means of security, have given place to recent im- 
provements, which modern taste has suggested — with- 
out offering however, too much violence to the ancient 
character, which properly belongs to it. Within, are 
many commodious, and some handsome apartments ; and 
among the paintings which adorn them, is one, a Sea-piece, 
sun-set, by Claude Lorraine, of great value. Finely 
shaded behind — from the front, a delightful prospect opens 
over the undulating surface of the park ; enlivened by 
herds of deer ; richly stored with wood ; greatly orna- 
mented by a spread of water; and commanding, through 
the opening glades, a pleasing distant view of the town 
and castle of Warwick. Adjoining the mansion, is a do- 
mestic Chapel ; where divine worship is celebrated, ac- 
cording to the forms of the Romish Church, to which the 
noble proprietor conscientiously and devoutly adheres. 

About six miles from IVarwick, is Claverdon, a 
small village, formerly distinguished as the seat of Thomas 



376 RIDES AND WALKS 



Clover don — Preston Bagot — Wootton Woven. 



Spencer, Esq. a branch of the honourable family of the 
Spencers, of Althorpe, Northamptonshire; since ennobled 
by the title of Earl Spencer. In a spacious mansion, 
erected by himself, this gentleman long resided ; and, 
cc for the hospitality he kept in it," says Dugdale, "■ was 
considered as the mirror of the county." He died 1580; 
and on the north side of the chancel, in the village Church, 
is a stately monument, consecrated to his memory. It is 
an altar tomb, on which is a sarcophagus, placed under 
an arch, supported by Ionic pillars, and surmounted by a 
grand atchievement, exhibiting the arms of the Spencers, 
and of the families connected with them, in quarterings. 
On the front of the tomb are the same arms single. — At a 
short distance from Claverdon, to the right, some remains 
of Pinley Abbey are still to be seen. It was established 
shortly after the Conquest, and continued till the Dissolu- 
tion. Tbe nuns were of the Benedictine Order, but their 
number was never large. 

Two miles beyond Claverdon — to the right — is the 
rural village of Preston Bagot — which latter name it 
received from Ingram Bagot, to whom it was granted by 
William, Earl of Warwick, in the reign of Henry II. 
and to the left — is Wootton Woven, formerly a very exten- 
sive parish, in which is the handsome seat of Lady 
Smythe. It is a stone building, of square form, with a 
good front ; and contains a suite of apartments, elegantly 
fitted up, and splendidly furnished. The house was origi- 
nally built by Sir Charles Smythe, created Baron 
Carrington of Wootton, by Charles II. in l643 ; which 
title became extinct in 1705. In one of the principal 
apartments, is a good whole-length portrait of Lord Car- 
rington, in his robes of office, as Chief Baron of the 
Exchequer. 



ROUND LEAMINGTON. 377 



Beaudesert — Ancient Castle of De Mont fort. 



At Wootton-lVaven, which owes its second name 
to one of its possessors before the Norman Conquest, was 
a small Benedictine Prion/, belonging to the Abbey of 
Conches, in Normandy. Of these " alien priories" few 
were permitted to be established in England; and these 
few were always regarded with suspicion by a nation^ ever 
jealous of .foreign influence. Under many discouraging 
circumstances, the Priory of Wootion subsisted ; till, so 
early as the reign of Henry VI., it was dissolved. 

Approaching Henley — in the immediate vicinity of 
it — is Beaudesert — of which, the church is a very ancient 
structure; and shews some interesting remains of Saxon ar- 
chitecture, especially in its eastern window. In ages long 
past, this place was noticed for a large and strongly fortified 
Castle; which, from its pleasant situation, obtained the 
French appellation of Beldesert. It was erected soon after 
the Conquest, by Thurstane de Montfort, one of 
the great Norman Barons ; who, by their power and 
ambition, rendered themselves so formidable, especially 
in the reigns of King John and Henry III. During 
the latter reign, Peter de Montfort, the fourth, and 
the most considerable of his family, united with the famous 
Earl of Leicester * and other Barons, who took arms 
against the royal authority ; and at length, " by the pro- 
visions of Oxford" assumed to themselves all the powers 
of government. Though afterwards taken prisoner, with 
his son, at the storming of Northampton ; yet he still ad- 
hered, in every variety of fortune, to the confederated Lords. 
With them, he triumphed at the battle of Lewes, when the 
King was defeated, and in effect dethroned: and with 
them, fin all v 5 he shared in the dreadful conflict of Evesham 



His name wa? also De Moj.tfoht, but he was of a ditferan* family. 

3 B 



378 RIDES AND WALKS 

,„. | 11 , j iiimi.h ■mil II II llll ■ ■!!*». Mil ■ nil 

^ ' ■ :' ■ - - ' ■ ■ ■■ ■ ■ ■ - ■ — ■•■'• ■ ■ ■ " ■ ^ 

Biographical notice of Richard Jago. 

Vale, when, with so many others, he paid the forfeit of 

his ambition with his life. From that time r the power 
and prosperity of his family began to decline ; their 
castle at Beaudesert was gradually neglected ; and, in the 
wars of the two Roses, was finally destroyed. No traces of 
it can now be found, except only of the vast moat, carried 
round the eminence, on which it was proudly seated. 

From the dazzling view of aspiring ambition, which 
so often disturbs, for no public good, the public order and 
peace, it is delightful to descend to the contemplation 
of the less splendid, but more real and solid worth, 
which ensures the happiness of private life. Beau- 
desert has the honor of giving birth to Richari> 
Jago, an amiable man, an exemplary clergyman, and 
a good though not a great poet. He was born while 
his father was Rector of this parish ; and his educa- 
tion, begun at Solihull Grammar School, was completed 
at University College, Oxford. He was married twice ; and 
by his lirst wife he had three sons, who died before him^ 
and four daughters, of whom, three survived him. He was 
happy, in the kind notice of several distinguished persons, in 
the friendship of Shenstone, and in the patronage of Lord 
Willoughby de Broke, To this excellent nobleman, he 
was indebted for his first preferment, the living of Ches- 
terton ; and for his last and greatest, that of Kilmcote, in 
Leicestershire, He had also the Vicarage of Snitterfield, 
which was given him by Dr. Maddox, Bishop of Worces- 
ter ; and, in this pleasant village, he passed the greater 
part of his life a Here he preached, and wrote; and here, 
at the age of 65, May 8, 1781, he died. His works are, 
u Edge Hill" a poem in blank verse, to which, frequent 
reference has been made in the course of these pages ; and 



ROUND LEAMINGTON. 379 

■w • 

«■— > ' ■ i i ' ' ■ ■ ' . -— " " , ' ' 

Hcnley-in-Arden — The Church — Old Cross. 

several smaller pieces, of which, the chief are (C The Black- 
birds," " The Swallows" and " The Goldfinches," In these, 
considerable poetic merit is displayed, sufficient to establish 
his claim to a respectable place, among the minor poets. 

Henley-in-Arden is a small town, situated on the 
great road from Birmingham to Oxford. Its name, 
according to Dugdale, is derived from hean, which sig- 
nifies in the old English, high, and /ej/ 3 a place. For the 
privilege of holding a weekly market, and an annual fair, 
it was originally indebted to its ear^y and powerful patrons, 
the De Montforts ; and in the fall of that great family, 
at the battle of Evesham, its rising prosperity received a 
severe check. Towards the end of the succeeding reign, 
however, it rose to considerable consequence, and was term- 
ed a Borough. In the reign of Edward IIL a plan for 
paving the town was formed ; and the right of taking toll 
upon certain vendible commodities obtained, in order to 
defray the expense. In the same reign, the church was 
erected by the inhabitants at their own expense ; who had 
long felt serious inconvenience from the distance of the 
parish church, which was at Wool Ion- Wav en. It is a 
good country church. In the reign of Henry VI. a hos- 
pital, for the reception of poor people and strangers, was 
erected ; of which no traces remain. In the market place, 
the shaft of an old cross is still to be seen ; but the em- 
bellishments, which surmounted it, are so mutilated as to 
be no longer discernible. The population of Henley, ex- 
ceeds one thousand. 

EXCURSION TO HARWCOD's HOUSE AND GAYDON INN. 

This road — commencing opposite to the New 
Bridge — is pleasingly shaded, to the right, for more than 

3 b 2 



3S0 RIDES AND WALKS 

BmMK MlMBW WIlMKMaM W Il. 111 11 111 11 1 I I I IIIIIIM I J — M— I t ■ . Ill ■ gggpgggjgg j gggggggggljgg||g i | | gg t 

HarwoocPs House — Roman Fosse — Roman Camp. 

SSSSSSm i ' i n n ■ i ■ i i i ii I , —mb——— B3J5S5S i ' i' 

a mile, by the noble plantations of Warwick Park: and 
in the descent, between two gentle hills, a delightful view 
is caught, over the beautiful lake, into the Park itself. A 
little further, are the scanty remains of a small hamlet, 
belonging to Tachbroke, called Asps. About four miles 
from Warwick, is Oakley Wood : and, two beyond, is Har- 
wood's House, a small solitary Inn. It stands on the great 
Roman fosse-way, so often mentioned before, which inter- 
sects the whole county, from north-east to south-west ; 
and which here crosses, at right angles, the turnpike road. 

About half a mile, along the fosse, to the left, 
are the striking remains of a castramentation, of square 
form, and of great extent, supposed to be of Roman con- 
struction. This, indeed, is sufficiently proved, first, from 
the name of Chesterton, a village near it, so obviously 
derived from the Latin castrum ; next, from its situation, 
immediately on the fosse-way, where stations were usually 
established ; and above all, from the discovery of Roman 
coins, which has been occasionally made within its pre- 
cincts. - As it stands at nearly an equal distance from 
High Cross, Leicestershire, and Alcester, in this county, 
it was, probably, an intermediate station between them. 
Warwick, it is true, is in a more direct line : but it is 
extremely doubtful whether that town was ever a Roman 
station at all; and the close vicinity of Chesterton to the 
fosse-way, may well be supposed to have obtained for it 
the preference, notwithstanding its greater distance. 

At Chesterton, from the reign of Edward III. 
through a long succession of ages, were seated the wealthy 
and honorable family of Peyto. Of this family, some dis- 
tinguished themselves in the profession of arms ; others in 



ROUND LEAMINGTON. 381 

IT I 1 M B I III I.I III | ■■■ » 1 ■.■■i ll 

Chesterton — Family of' Pet/ to — Manor House. 

WSmSSm ii mu i i mi tSSSSSSSSSm i ■ ■ ■ i ■ ■ < i ' i SS» 

that of Law ; and one rose to high honors in the Church. 
This last was Peter Peyto, who, in the reign of Henry 
VIII. was created a Cardinal ; and was confessor to his 
daughter, afterwards Oueen Mary. During her reign, 
he was appointed by Pope Paulus III. his legate at her 
court, in the room of the famous Cardinal Pole, who 
had displeased him. Secure, however, in the favor of his 
roval mistress, Pole refused obedience to the papal man- 
date ; and when Peyto arrived off the English coast, in- 
vested with his new dignity, he was forbidden to land. 
Retiring thence, in high disgust, to France, within a short 
time, he died. 

In the reign of Edward IV. the manor house of 
Chesterton was rebuilt in a good style, by Sir William 
Peyto. The hall in particular, seems to have been a 
noble room ; and its windows were richly adorned with 
painted glass, representing the armorial bearings of the 
Peyto, and other families connected with it — of which, 
engravings are preserved in Dugdale. To this ancient 
part, a grand suite of apartments was added, by Sir 
Edward Pey t to, under the direction of the celebrated 
Inigo Jones, about the year l630. But the whole struc- 
ture was taken down, a few years ago, by order of Lord 
Willoughby de Broke, to whom the estate, in right of 
his maternal ancestors, descended. Part of a garden wall, 
and a gateway, overhung with ivy, form the sole and the 
melancholy remains of this once spacious and splendid 
mansion. 

Near this forlorn forsaken spot, stands the village 
church, of moderate size and antique appearance. Over 
the principal entrance, are several figures, placed in niches, 



382 RIDES AND WALKS 



Chesterton Church — Anecdote of John L 



acy. 



much mutilated, but still shewing remains of fine sculpture. 
Within, are three stately monuments, consecrated to the 
memory of Humphrey, William, and Edward Peyto, 
father, son, and grandson, and of their wives, who all lived 
and died between the reigns of Elizabeth and Charles IL 
Of these monuments, the first is an altar tomb, on which 
are placed the figures of Sir Humphrey and his Lady, in 
recumbent postures, with hands elevated, and each clasping 
a book ; the one habited in the armour, the other in the 
usual female dress, of the times. In two compartments, 
above, fixed against the wall, are the figures of their chil- 
dren, six sons and four daughters. The upper cornice/ 
and the front and sides of the tomb, are adorned with nu- 
merous armorial bearings. The two other monuments, 
formed of black and white marble, imposing in appear- 
ance, but heavy and tasteless in design, consist of a kind 
of sarcophagus, on which two busts are placed, standing 
in a recess, supported by pillars, the one of Corinthian, 
the other of no regular order* 

With the history of Cliesterton Church, an anec- 
dote connects itself, too interesting to be omitted, even in 
these slight sketches. John Lacy, vicar of the parish, in 
the reign of Henry V. was indicted, on the charge " of 
receiving and harbouring" that early, enlightened and in- 
trepid reformer, the virtuous and high-minded, Lord 
Cobham 5* who had been convicted of the pretended crime 
of heresy ; but had happily effected, for that time, his 
escape from the fangs of his barbarous and bloody perse- 
cutors. Justly appreciating, no doubt, the pure integrity, 



* See a Portrait of this accomplished Nobleman,— this illustrious martyr to the great 
cause of Christian truth, — spiritedly drawn and beautifully coloured, in " Gilpin's Lives of 
the Reformers." * 



ROUND LEAMINGTON. 383 

i- ■ ' — — — j . i 

Windmill built by Inigo Jones — Gaydon. 

the heroic firmness, and the many shining qualities of the 
truly noble Confessor, whatever he might think of his 
religious opinions, the good Vicar hesitated not to offer 
that shelter from the impending storm, which either his 
own habitation, or the retired cots and shades of Chesterton 
might afford — regardless of the risk to himself, great and 
terrible as 5 in those times of ferocious bigotry, it was. 
For this noble act of generous compassion., who is not 
glad to find that he obtained, even in that age, " pardon," 
under the king's letters patent ? and who would not re- 
j.oice, if he could but have looked into distant futurity ? — • 
when he might have claimed, and would have received, 
from the whole Christian and civilized world, instead of 
pardon, high admiration and applause ! — But far higher 
praise there is — which he could, and, no doubt, did con- 
template — in comparison of which all other is worthless ! 

On the summit of a hill, near Chesterton, stands a 
large stone Windmill, erected, in l632, by Sir Edward 
Peyto, and justly an object of curiosity, as it was built 
after a design of Inigo Jones. Without the fliers, the 
mill, which is of a circular form, would resemble a large 
temple, of no graceful symmetry. The body is supported 
by six arches, with pilaster capitals ; and beneath them, 
by ordinary wooden stairs, is the ascent to the interior. 
The mill is surmounted by a leaden dome, which revolves 
for the purpose of shifting the fliers affixed to it, as the 
stale of the wind requires. — From this hill the view is rich 
and extensive ; the towers of Warwick, and the spires of 
Coventry, forming characteristic objects. 

Beyond liar wood's House, at the distance of four 
miles,, is Gaydon, where is another small solitary Inn. 



^■^■^HHHi 



384 RIDES AND WALKS 

Tachbrook Mallory — Manor House. 
RIDE THROUGH BISHOP's-TACHBRGOK TO BARFORD. 

None of all the shorter excursions from Warwick, 
is more delightful than this, — -leading through one of the 
richest and most fertile tracts, perhaps, in the whole coun- 
ty. — Commencing opposite the New Bridge — the road 
hears off, to the left, at the first turnpike — a little beyond 
which, from a rising ground, is seen one of the fine 
nearer views of the town and castle of Warwick, already 
noticed.* 

Closely adjoining Bishop 's-Tachbroke, is Tach- 
broke-Malhry ; of which the common name is derived, 
according to Dugdale, from the little stream, that flows 
between them; and the distinguishing adjuncts, from their 
two early possessors — who were the Bishops of Lichfield 
and Coventry , about the period of the Norman Conquest ; 
and the family of Mallory, first settled here, in the reign 
of Henry I. At this latter place is the Manor House ; 
an ancient edifice, and still capacious, though some parts of 
its buildings were taken down, a few years ago. Here was 
seated, in the reign of Charles I. the family of the Wag- 
staffes; from whom, by the marriage of a female heiress, 
the estate passed into the possession of the Bagots ; since 
ennobled, by the title of Baron Bagot, of Blithfield, Staf- 
fordshire, It has lately become, by purchase, the property 
of the Earl of Warwick. — Striking remains of the ma- 
jestic woods, by which this mansion was formerly sur- 
rounded, are still to be seen in some large and stately 
trees, particularly limes and xhesnuts, which still fondly 
cling to the soil — where they have, for ages, stood and 
flourished. 

* See Page 67. « 



ROUND LEAMINGTON. 385 



Bishop's Tac/i brook — Church — Parsonage — School. 



Bishop's Tachbrook is a small, scattered, plea- 
singly sequestered village ; occupying a situation, that 
might almost be termed romantic, on ground strikingly 
diversified, amid fields that smile with fertility, and trees 
and groves, that spread their sheltering arms, and deepen- 
ing shades all about. " The church, that tops the neigh- 
bouring hill," " the preachers modest mansion," " the 
school house," with its pleasant garden, " the sheltered 
cot," the comfortable " farm-house," " the little Inn," and 
" the glassy brook, reflecting the day" might easily remind 
one of Goldsmith's village — sweet Auburn ! — before it 
was deserted. The church is, indeed, more than " decent ;" 
it is an interesting and venerable structure; of some con- 
siderable dignity in size and exterior appearance, and com- 
modiously, and handsomely fitted up within. It is of 
Saxon or early Norman architecture ; and consists of a 
strong square tower at the west end, a spacious and lofty 
nave, two aisles, and a chancel. The buttresses are large 
and massy, especially those that give support to the side 
walls. At the east end, is an old cross ; and, on the north 
side, may be seen the Saxon arch of a doorway, now filled 
up. The nave is divided from the two aisles, by plain 
round pillars, supporting three pointed arches ; above 
which, in the clere-story, is a range of antique windows. 
The chancel is of good size, and has a large modern win- 
dow; which, however, as well as two or three other modern 
windows, little harmonizes with the general air of this 
ancient fabric. The slate covering and the smooth 
plastering of this part are, also, deductions from its pic- 
turesque beauty. In the chancel, are three stately monu- 
ments, erected to the memory of John Wagstaffe and 
Combe Wagstaffe, Esqrs. who both died in the reign of 
Charles II. and of Sir Thomas Wagstaffe, Knight, son 

3 c 



383 RIDES AND WALKS 



Monuments in Tachbrook Church — Road to Barford. 



of the former and cousin of the latter, who died in 1708. 
It was his daughter, and sole heiress, who was married to 
Sir Edward Bagot, father of Walter, the first Lord 
Bagot. These three monuments consist ofmarble tablets, 
two of large size, placed in a slight recess, supported by 
pillars ; and are more remarkable for profusion of orna- 
ment, and splendour of appearance, than correctness of 
taste. Near the altar is a small tablet, which records the 
unfortunate death of Walter, son of the Rev. W. Bagot, 
who was drowned by the oversetting of a pleasure boat, 
in the Avon, near Warwick Castle* 1800. In the north 
aisle, is another tablet, commemorating the name and 
honors of John Rous, Esq. second son of Sir John Rous, 
Bart, who was member for Warwick, in the famous con- 
vention parliament, which restored Charles II. to the 
throne, and who died in 1686. In the body of the church, 
are, also, several monumental inscriptions — -one, in Latin, 
dedicated to the memory of Dr. Lander, formerly a 
physician, at Warwick — and two or three to the memory 
of some of the family of Savage, once of much consi- 
deration in this village. 

The road from Tachbrook, in the way to Barford, 
soon falls into the Gay don road — -leaving which, and 
passing through a gate, nearly opposite the Asps House, 
it bends in a fine circuit, through cultivated fields, round 
the beautiful plantations of Warwick Park, which extend 
almost to the entrance into Barford. 

Barford is a considerable village, adorned with 
several large and handsome houses. The first of these, at 

• See Page 235. 



ROUND LEAMINGTON. .38; 

Barf or d — Fine View. 

the north-eastern extremity, is the seat of Charles Mills, 
Esq. M. P. Though somewhat irregularly built, it is a 
spacious and elegant mansion ; surrounded with extensive 
and flourishing plantations, laid out, with great taste, by 
Mr. Haverfield ; and seated on a delightful eminence, 
which, for the rich and beautiful prospect, it commands, 
is almost unrivalled, in this county. It looks over the 
fertile vale, through which the Avon winds along ; whose 
course is here seen, in considerable length, appearing and 
disappearing at intervals ; and whose banks are clothed, 
to a great distance, on every side, with a profusion of rich 
wood scenery. In various directions, pleasing distances are 
caught, and agreeable objects discovered. But especially 
— towards the right — the town and the church of War- 
wick, and the towers and battlements of the Castle- — with 
its Gothic green-house, placed distinctly in view — every 
where interspersed and shaded with wood — the ground 
in front finely opening and swelling — and the noble 
groves of the park forming a rich side-screen — present 
a charming landscape. Encircling and bounding the 
whole view, is a range of verdant hills, melting into the 
wide horizon above, and gently sinking into the vale 
below. But though eminently rich and beautiful, in its 
detached parts — this prospect is rather to be admired as 
an assemblage of pleasing pictures, than as one ^rand 
and well united whole. The near ground, also, imme- 
diately opposite the back-front of the house, is too much 
crowded — almost, indeed, shut in — with trees ; check- 
ing the view, and mocking the eye, which impatiently 
longs to penetrate the interposing shade. The judicious 
application of the axe, in removing these obstructions — 
would add greatly to the charms of this highly captivating 
scene. 

3 C 2 



WIKMGBIVW 



■ 



388 RIDES AND WALKS 



Barford Church — Tarsona^e House. 



Opposite the church, is Barford House, the resi- 
dence of John Whitehead, Esq. ; and immediately ad- 
joining it, is the Parsonage House, most delightfully and 
elegantly rural. The church itself is a pleasing structure, 
well fitted up, with a side aisle, lately built ; and a hand- 
some chancel, rising two or three steps above the body of 
the church ; in which are several monumental tablets, par- 
ticularly one, consecrated to the memory of the Rev" J. 
Mills, father of the present vicar of the parish, and of 
the present member for TVarwick. 

At the southern extremity of the village, are two 
or three good houses, and one large and extremely hand- 
some, which has long been unoccupied — though not surely 
from the want of attractions, since it is said to be as com- 
modiously arranged and fitted up within, as it is elegantly 
finished without. 

From Barford, on the return to IVarwlch, through 
Longbridge, the distance is about two miles. 

EXCURSION TO OFFCHURCH AND SOUTHAM. 

From Leamington, a good road, through a rich 
pleasant country, leads to Southam — 8 miles. — Commenc- 
ing from the eastern extremity of the village, the road 
follows for some way the course of the Learn, which gen- 
tly winds through the meadows, at a small distance, to 
the left. The rising grounds, beyond, present a rich dis- 
play of wood-scenery; amidst which, strikingly disclosed to 
view, is the beautiful seat of the Rev. E. Willes ; and, 
near it, a good substantial farm-house. To the right is 
seen the long strait line of the Napton Canal — whose rec- 
tilinear angular course, sharp parallel edges, and naked 



ROUND LEAMINGTON. 3sg 



Radford Hall— The Church— The Village. 



unadorned banks, form the strongest possible contrast, as 
Gilpin justly remarks, with all the picturesque beauties 
of a natural river. 

Crossing a stone bridge over a small stream, run- 
ning into the Learn, succeeded by another over the Canal 
— Radford Hall appears to view. It is a good old manor- 
house, occupying an elevated situation, commanding views 
of some extent. Near it, is the rural church of Radford; 
and, a little beyond it, is the village. Here, in a small 
house, fitted up in a style, singularly fanciful, is the occa- 
sional residence of H. G. Lewis, Esq. of Malvern Hall, 
near Solihull ; to whom much of the land in the vicinity 
belongs. This village, to distinguish it from another near 
Coventry, is called by the two names of Radford Semrie 
— the first borrowed from its situation on the ford of a 
small rivulet, through which the road passed ; and the 
second, from one of its early possessors, the family of 
De S em ely, who first settled here in the reijm of 
Henry I. 

About a mile to the left of Radford, is Offdiurch 
Bury, the seat of the late John Wightwick Knightley, 
Esq. which is said to derive its name from Offa, King 
of the Mercians, one of the greatest and most powerful 
Princes of the Saxon Heptarchy — distinguished, not only 
as a bold and successful warrior, but also as a wise and 
able governor — honored by the friendship and alliance of 
Charlemagne — but deeply disgraced by the treacherous 
murder of Eth elbert, King of the East- Angles,* whose 
dominions he instantly seized and annexed to his own. 

* Su-s Milton's History of England. Hume. Rapi**, 



3 9 RIDES AND WALKS 



Offchurck Bury. 



Here, as Dugdale believed, stood the ancient palace,* in 
which the great Mercian monarch held his rural court : 
and here, as Camden affirms, was interred the good and 
valiant Fremundus, son of Offa, who was surprised and 
basely assassinated, in the fields near Harbury* If this 
is, for the most part, traditional history ; there are authen- 
tic records to prove, that Offbhurch, in the time of Ed- 
ward the Confessor, was the property of Earl Leo- 
fric ; that it was offered by him, as a pious donation, to 
the rich monks of Coventry ; and that it continued in their 
possession, till the general Dissolution. At that period* 
by letters patent, in the 34th of Henry VIII. it was 
granted to Sir Edward Knightley, Knight ; and in his 
descendants of the female line, who have assumed his 
name, the inheritance still remains^ 

Offchurch Bury, is a large, irregular, ancient, and 
Venerable pile ; and though some parts are of considerably 
later date than others, the general character of antique gran- 
deur prevails. The situation is low ; the scene calm and 
sequestered; deep and solemn, yet pleasing, is the air of 
retirement and repose that reigns around. Near the man- 
sion are some small pieces of water ; and, just before its 
Gothic entrance, is the great chesnut tree, so much an 
object of curiosity. Though a single tree, even at a small 
distance, it has all the appearance of a considerable cluster: 
and, though rising only to a moderate height, it throws its 
large umbrageous arms, in a wide circumference, over an 
immense space — -forming a sort of vast verdant canopy* 
capable of covering and concealing, it is said, three hun- 
dred persons. Adjoining the House is the extensive Park, 
well shaded with trees, some of large size and noble form. 

* The word " Berrye" says Dugdale, " signifies no less than burgus or curia." 



ROUND LEAMINGTON. 391 

Village of Offchurch — Vjton—Stonei/-Thorpc. 

r i ■ ■ .. ■ ■ — 

The village of Offchurch, about half a mile distant, 
is sweetly retired and rural ; the ground pleasingly broken ; 
the landscape beautifully wooded. The church is a good 
structure, seated on a fine eminence, commanding extended 
views. Near it is the handsome Parsonage House, sur- 
rounded with its delightful pleasure grounds, conspicuously 
touched, in every part, by the hand of taste and elegance. 
The lover of picturesque objects will admire the cottage 
School-house ; and the man of enlightened benevolence 
will contemplate, with pleasure, the little village seminary^ 
conducted, under excellent super' ntendence, within. 

Proceeding from Radford— -at the bottom of a 
steep descent, near the fifth mile, the turnpike road is 
intersected by the great Roman Fosse, so often mentioned 
before. From this point, at the distance of little more 
than two miles, along the Fosse, to the right, is the Roman 
encampment, near Chesterton. — About the seventh mile, 
elevated on its rocky eminence, and shaded by its extensive 
woods, is Ufton ; a scanty village, so called, says Dugdale, 
from Ulfe, one of its Saxon possessors. The road winds 
close round the little village church yard, filled with its 
humble memorials of mortality — standing forward to the 
parsing view — as if urgent to press their solemn mementos 
on the notice even of the anxiously busy or the thoughtless- 
ly gay — as they rush eagerly or carelessly by. — Near the 
8th mile is S ton ey -Thorpe, the seat of Mrs. FAuauiER — • 
now reduced to a single mansion — though once, as the 
old English word Thorpe signifies, a village — situated, as 
its name, also, designates, on a rocky soil. — One mile 
bevond is Souiliam. 

South am is a small market town, stationed at nearly 
equal distances from Warwick, Daventry, Coventry, and 



392 RIDES AND WALKS 



To Southam — biltington — Bluckdown. 



Banbury: and, to the traffic, on these four roads, it chiefly 
owes the little trade, it possesses* There are one or two 
good Inns, and several handsome houses. The church is 
a spacious and venerable Gothic structure, giving conse- 
quence to the place. A good parsonage-house adjoins* 
The weekly market is inconsiderable ; but one large well- 
attended fair is here held annually, in the month of May, 

EXCURSION BY STONLEIGH TO COVENTRY. 

This road from Leamington leads through rural 
lanes ; adorned, on each side, by a broad irregular border 
of grass ; screened by hedge rows, wildly-growing, abound- 
ing with honey-suckles and other creeping plants ; and 
overshaded with fine oaks and other trees profusely scat- 
tered about, or formed into little clusters ; and, near Ston- 
leigh, uniting and spreading into noble and extensive woods. 
Few, except very confined views, occur ; which are fre- 
quently caught, through the arms or boles of the trees, 
into the rich and cultivated fields, immediately adjacent ; 
and, occasionally, into little woody recesses, pleasingly 
interspersed. 

About a mile from Leamington — leaving on the 
right, the village and the church of Lillhigton — the road 
bends to the left, and the usual gravelly soil changes, for a 
short space, into sand. Here the ground ascends, and a 
prospect of some extent, but no great interest, opens over 
a flat tame tract of corn and pasture land — terminated, 
however, by a striking distant view of Warwick Church 
and the towers of the Castle. On the descent from this 
sandy eminence, passing One little lonely cot, Blachdown 
Mill appears ; and, a little beyond, Chesford Bridge ; 
stretching with three arches, over the Avon. This mill 



ROUND LEAMINGTON. 393 

Che ford Bridge — Approach to Stoneleigh Abbey, 

belonged, so early as the reign of Edward I. to the monks 
of Combe Abbey, ten miles distant ; upon whom was 
imposed the expense of keeping the bridge in repair ; as 
appears from the report of a trial held, in the reign of 
Edward III. between the inhabitants of Kenilworth and 
other neighbouring villages, on one side, and the Abbot of 
Combe, on the other. The same obligation of repairing 
still rests with the present possessor of Combe Abbey, the 
Earl of Craven. 

Till lately, this ancient Bridge was a fine pictu- 
resque object. The arches and buttresses were pleasingly 
shaded, in large irregular masses, with ivy ; the joinings 
and small fissures overgrown with moss or lichen ; and the 
smooth surface roughened, or, in parts, broken, by the 
moulderings or injuries of time, and deeply tinged by the 
discolouring hues of age, or the streaming marks of 
weather-stains. But of all these beauties, in the pictu- 
resque eye, it is now stript, by the unsparing chisel of the 
mason, employed lately in some necessary repairs. The 
scenery about it, is, however, still beautiful. On each side, 
in a fine bend, the river'is seen, working its quiet way; 
the ground, on one of its banks, rising, is richly adorned 
with hanging wood, and sinking on the other, spreads into 
soft and luxuriant meadows. 

A little beyond Chesford Bridge — where four 
ways meet — turning to the right — and soon afterwards 
into a newly-formed road, — on the left, the vast and 
majestic woods, and the noble and spacious mansion, 
of Stoneleigh Abbey, gradually break, with impressive 
grandeur, on the eye. The more ancient part of this 
venerable pile was built on the site of the Old Abbey, by 
Sir Thomas Leigh, in the reign of Oueen Elizabeth, 

3 d 



394 RIDES AND WALKS 

——»———■—— mmtm — — »— i i m i iiw ii i »< n U i — ■ — i wllaiii i m Mii— m — ■ — — — — — ay 

Stoneleigh Abbey — New Lodge — Neat Bridge. 

forming three sides of a quadrangle. The fourth side is 
occupied by another extensive and elevated structure, of 
square form, with a regular and handsome front of the 
Corinthian order, erected, about a century ago, by Thomas 
fourth Lord Leigh, after the design of Smith, architect 
of Warwick. 

This splendid mansion occupies a situation, like so 
many other religious edifices of a similar kind, most felici- 
tously chosen, for all the purposes of devout or delightful 
retirement. Standing low, in the midst of bold acclivities, 
it is of course denied all the advantages of distant or ex- 
tensive views ; but it is richly recompensed in the charms 
of its own beautiful scenery—of which some notice is in- 
tended hereafter. 

The new road, well laid out, by the present posses- 
sor of Stoneleigh Abbey, J. H. Leigh, Esq. extends about 
two miles in length ; and, nearly midway, a handsome stone 
lodge, with a spacious gateway, is now erecting ; leading 
to a noble Bridge, of one large elliptical arch — intended to 
form the principal approach to the Abbey. As this ap- 
proach is for the most part, from higher to lower ground, 
it is evident that some art will be necessary to prevent the 
diminishing effect of looking down upon an object in itself 
so grand and imposing. For this reason, the new bridge, 
when nearly completed, was found to rise too high ; and 
the central part was taken down and lowered, at a great 
expense. Perhaps, in happy effect, the former approach, 
from Ashow, will scarcely be exceeded ; which, wind- 
ing through lofty woods, amidst a prodigality of shade, 
utterly excluded all view of the main edifice, till des- 
cending to a level, even somewhat below it, the stately 
mansion was at once submitted, in all its magnificence, t® 
the surprised and delighted gaze. 



ROUND LEAMINGTON. .395 



Stoneleigh Village — Alms- Houses — Church. 

«»^—a«— —— ■— — ^^— ^^— ^ » i T i ■ ) i u rn 

At the termination of the new road, another on 
the left, leads to the village of Stoneleigh — situated in a 
quiet and delicious retreat, " looking tranquillity " — on 
ground charmingly diversified, and profusely wooded. It 
is particularly distinguished hy a range of alms-houses, 
uniformly and substantially built of stone, for five men, 
and five women, unmarried. They were founded by 
Alice, the lady of Sir Thomas Leigh, Lord Mayor of 
London, at the time of Oueen Elizabeth's accession. 
The objects of this charity were to be nominated, in the first 
instance, by herself; and, afterwards, by her heirs. Near 
the church, is the Parsonage-house, fitted up in a pleasing 
stvle of raral elegance, with delightful pleasure grounds 
adjoining. The church is a large old gothic structure; 
of Saxon or early Norman architecture. Striking speci- 
mens are here to be seen of the round arches of the former, 
and the pointed windows of the latter. The tower, some- 
what irregular in its structure, and richly mantled with 
ivy, presents a fine picturesque object. The nave is 
spacious and loft)', and is furnished with one side aisle ; 
but the look of the whole interior is dreary and desolate, 
owing chiefly to the ruinous state of the pews. A plan for 
new-pewing, and it is to be hoped, also for new-flooring, is 
said to be in contemplation. Near the chancel, is a good 
vestry, built over the vault of the Leigh family ; and 
within it, are three monuments — consecrated to the me- 
mory of several of that truly excellent and honorable 
family — distinguished, from age to age, for benevolence, as 
boundless as their immense wealth. Two of these, are 
plain marble tablets: one simply records the name of 
Edward, fifth and last Lord Leigh, born 1742, died 17S6 ; 
the other portrays not very elegantly, and rather feebly, 
the great and amiable virtues of the Hon. Mary Leigh, his 

3 D 2 



■■■■^H 



396 RIDES AND WALKS 

Monuments of the Leigh Family, in Stoneleigh Church. 

sister and sole heiress, who died July 2, 1806, at the age 
of 70. The third is the stately marble monument, erected 
by herself, of Alicia Dutchess Dudley, and of her 
daughter Alicia. On altar tombs, in recumbent postures, 
are the effigies of the deceased ; that of the mother, eleva- 
ted high above, and that of the daughter, reclining imme- 
diately below. Over the whole, is spread a vast heavy 
black canopy, with white drapery underneath, supported 
by very small Ionic pillars, placed on very large double 
pedestals. Above the canopy, is the ducal coronet ; and 
on the facings, are the armorial bearings. Between the 
pillars, a pair of little angels is introduced, raising up the 
draper}', disclosing to view, the person of the Dutchess: and, 
at the same time, blowing the trumpet of her fame. As this 
monument was erected by herself, it may be candidly presu- 
med, that at least this ingenious allegorical eulogy, was 
added after her decease, by some of her surviving friends 
or admirers. Though she possessed real and great merit, 
one would rather it should be proclaimed abroad by any 
but herself. It must, indeed, be confessed, that the whole 
monument is a singular specimen of splendour without taste, 
and of massy bulkiness without the smallest pretension to 
elegance of design, or proportion of parts. 

Alicia Dutchess Dudley was the grand-daughter 
ofjSiR Thomas Leigh, Lord Mayor of London, and the 
first of the family seated at Stoneleigh Abbey. Her father, 
the second son of Sir Thomas, created a Baronet by King 
James, was married to Catherine, daughter of Sir John 
Spencer," of Wormleighton ; and, of this marriage, she 
was the third daughter. In the latter end of Queen Eli- 
zabeth's reign, she was married to Sir Robert Dudley, 
the natural son of the famous Earl oj Leicester, by Lady 



ROUND LEAMINGTON. 397 

Biographical notice of Alicia Dutchess Dudley. 

Douglas Sheffield.* With all the advantages of a fine - 
person, Sir Robert possessed splendid talents; and attain- 
ed to high distinction, in all the usual learning and accom- 
plishments of the age. He excelled, particularly, in ma- 
thematical science ; and, amongst other manly exercises, 
was famed for his skill in riding the great horse. Many 
years after his father's death, he endeavoured to establish 
the legitimacy of his birth, by proving a secret marriage. 
Legal inquiry took place ; but was interrupted, by a sud- 
den order from the Star-Chamber Court; all the writ- 
ten depositions were sealed up ; and no copies allowed 
to be taken, without the King's special licence. Sir 
Robert afterwards went abroad, and never returned. 
He was accompanied by a lady, Elizabeth, daughter of 
Sir Robert Southwell ; whom he at length married, by 
dispensation from the Pope ; though his wife, Alicia, was 
still living. He resided chiefly in Italy, and obtained great 
favour with the Duke of Tuscany ; and, also, with the 
Emperor, Ferdinand IL who conferred on him the title 
of Duke of the Holy Roman Empire. Lady Alicia, thus 
deserted and dishonoured by her husband, still lived in Eng- 
land; revered for her piety, and admired and loved for her 
active and extensive charity. She was possessed of several 
large estates, partly in her own right, and partly in that of 
her husband ; and stood so high in the esteem of Charles 
I. that he was graciously pleased to grant her the style 
and dignity of a Dutchess, with the right of precedency 
to her daughters, as if they were the daughters of a Duke. 
She died January 22, l668, in the 90th year of her age ; 
and of five daughters, one only survived her, Lady Ca- 
therine Leveson, who inherited all the benevolence of her 

* See page 122. 



mmtrntm 



398 RIDES AND WALKS 

Bagington — Ancient Castle. 

mother's disposition, of which the Hospital of Balsall 
Temple,* remains a splendid monument. 

Aeout a mile and a half from Stoneleigh — pursuing 
the road to Coventry — is, Bagington Hall ; seated on a 
hold— eminence to the right ; commanding extended and 
pleasing views ; among which, strikingly appears, in dis- 
tant prospect, Coventry, with its majestic spires, towering 
above, and its crowded buildings, stretching round, par- 
tially disclosed amidst the dark shading of trees. This place 
takes its name from Sir William Bagot, one of the 
favorites of the unhappy and misguided Richard II. ; 
who resided here in a Castle — of which little remained, 
even in the time of Dugdale ; and which is now reduced 
to one solitary scanty piece of a wall, barely sufficient to 
fix the site of it. Here it was, that the Duke of Here- 
ford lodged before his intended rencounter with the Duke 
of Norfolk, at Coventry ; and hence, on the appointed 
morn, he issued forth u armed at all points, and mounted 
on his white courser, I arbed with blue and green velvet, 
gorgeously embroidered with swans and antelopes of 
Goldsmith's ivork."% It is well known, that when the 
two champions met in the field of battle, fully accoutred, 
the contest was prohibited, by royal authority ; and both 
the combatants were banished. 

In the reign of James I. the Bagington Estate 
was purchased, by William Bromley, Esq. whose des- 
cendant, William Bromley, Esq. in the reign of Queen 
Anne, was several times Representative in Parliament for 
the County of Warwick. In the 9th year of that reign, he 



* Seepage 125. $ DuesAte. 



ROUND LEAMINGTON. 399 



Bagington Hull, built by Secretary Bromley — Stivichail. 



was chosen Speaker of the House of Commons ; and was 
afterwards appointed one of Her Majesty's principal 
Secretaries of State. " He was a man of grave deportment 
and good morals/' says Bishop Burnet * not here to be 
suspected of partiality, " but looked on as a violent Toiy, 
and a great favourer of Jacobites." By hirn the present 
mansion was erected, in 1 fo6 ; and the following circum- 
stance, relating to it, cannot without injustice be omitted; 
since it is equally honorable both to his memory, and to the 
liberal and grateful spirit, which so nobly characterizes the 
British nation. Whilst he wa.s attending his duty, as 
Speaker of the House of Commons, the calamitous intel- 
ligence was brought that his seat at Bagington had just 
been accidentally destroyed by fire — when,, instantly a con- 
siderable sum was voted by Parliament, to defray the ex~ 
pense of rebuilding it. It is a spacious and handsome edifice, 
finished in the style of modern elegance. It is adorned by 
many good portraits, among which is one of Secretary 
Bromley, and several of his Family. In the large and 
well-chosen library, is a fine collection of Greek aad Ro- 
man Classics. Here are preserved some curious original 
letters ; several, it is said, by Royal hands. The present 
possessor of Bagington Hall, is Mrs. Price, a descendant 
of the Bromley Family. 

About one mile from Bagington, is Siivicltall, 
adorned by the handsome seat of Francis Gregory, Esq, 
Near it is the parish church, newly-erected in a pleasing 
style. — A little beyond, this road unites with the turnpike- 
road from Warwick to Coventry. 



* History of his Own Times, vol. 4, pnge 124,— Ed. 17a3« 



400 RIDES AND WALKS 

The Walks— The Holly Walk. 

€lf)e wm$. 

Many of the nearer and even the more distant ex- 
cursions, enumerated in the preceding pages, under the head 
of u Rides round Leamington" will afford also delightful 
Walks, especially to the well-practised pedestrian. But in 
the immediate vicinity, as it now remains to he slightly 
noticed, many inviting paths lie open ; and agreeable 
walks, of greater or less extent, will be found in almost 
every direction : nor can the exercise of walking fail of 
yielding all its pleasing or beneficial effects, in a tract of 
country, fanned with the purest breezes of health, and 
adorned with some of the richest and most beautiful sce- 
nery of nature. He that loves the open, healthful air, 
and the easy, careless, frequent saunter, may wander 
through the fields and shady lanes of Leamington, in social 
converse, or solitary musing, and find all the gratification 
he seeks. And the lover of rural rambles — the admirer 
of nature's charms, whether attired in sylvan pomp or 
rustic ease— may pursue his devious way, from one attrac- 
tive point to another, till fatigue or satiety sends him back 
delighted to his home. 

Few of all the nearer walks, are considered as more 
agreeable than the Holly Walk ; so named, because embel- 
lished, amidst a rich profusion of other shade, with numerous 
holly trees, some of larger size and more luxuriant growth, 
it is said, than in any other part of the kingdom. This 
walk is carried along the side of one of those rural lanes, 
" whose undressed simplicity and native charms," as the 
great Oracle* of picturesque beauty pronounces, <c far ex- 
ceed the walks of the most finished garden." At the end 

* Gilpin's Northern Tour, vol. 2, page 263. 



ROUND LEAMINGTON. 401 

Fine Viewsjrom ~Newbold Comyn Hill- — Walk by E?nscote to Warwick. 

of tliis^ a foot-path winds, through the fertile and sweetly 
sequestered meads beyond — pursuing which, the hills of 
Newbold Comyn appear — and gaining, by a gentle ascent, 
the lofty summit — a fine extensive view opens, over a wide 
tract of the surrounding country. Radford, Off church, 
Vfton Woods, IVliitnash, Tachbrook, and Warwick, are 
among the nearer objects; and, in the distance, are seen 
the Shuckburgh and the Edge Hills. Removing to 
another part of the same hilly range, more easterly, a 
striking view is obtained of the church and village of 
Leamington. The magnificent New Baths — grandly 
placed at the extremity of a broad spacious vista, opening 
and expanding into a beautiful foreground of velvet turf — 
behind, darkly shaded by noble woods — thence, spreading 
round into rich side screens — would of themselves form a 
fine picture. Beyond, are seen Warwick Church, the 
towers and groves of Warwick Castle, and a wide extent 
of well-wooded and cultivated country, stretching on 
every side. — Amongst other pleasing objects of little rural 
excursions about Leamington, may also be mentioned, 
Milverton, Lillington, and Cubbington, on one side ; and 
Whiinash and Tachbrook, on the other. 

The two coach roads to Warwick have been 
already noticed : but the pedestrian has a third choice, in 
the field- way by Emscote. This delightful walk— after 
following, for some space the windings of the Learn — 
descends into a little woody dell — then crosses. a small 
stream — beyond which the ground suddenly rises — and 
the path is pleasingly conducted along the edge of a steep 
bank, shaded with trees, and hung with clustering shrubs. 
Here a charming view is seen to the left, of the little 
fertile vale below, watered by its meandering river — and 

3 E 



402 RIDES AND WALKS, &c. 



Walk by the Canal to Warwick — the Aqueduct. 



a fine prospect, before, gradually opening, of the town* 
and castle of Warwick. 

Still another variation of the walk to Warwick, 
h, by following the course of the Canal ; which, though 
destitute of interest in itself, leads through a pleasant tract r 
and is recommended by one great object of curiosity in the 
noble Aqueduct, which conveys the water of the canal 
over the river Avon. This is a magnificent structure, ex- 
cellently built of stone ; extending, in length, 2l6feet; 
in breadth, 35; in heighth, 34. It is supported by three 
large circular arches, rising 21 feet above the level of the 
river. From this point, is seen — on one side — a pleasing 
rural landscape, formed by the wood, the water, the rock, 
and the meadows, the bridge, and the mill of Emscote — in 
striking contrast — with the grander view which the town 
and castle of Warwick, its winding river, and its noble 
bridge, present — on the other. The walk along the canal, 
in the way to Warwick, may be continued to any of 
the three bridges on the Emscote, the Coventry, or the: 
Birmingham roads — conducting into three different parts* 
of the town. 




ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 403 



Kenilwvrlh. 



CHAP. XXXIII. 



3tfrjaccnt €trton& #c 

Kcnihcorih— Coventry — Stratford — Charlecote House — Stoneleigh Abbey. 

_i\ N account of several of the more interesting and im- 
portant places, in the neighbourhood of Warwick and 
Leamington, too long to be conveniently introduced in the 
preceding Chapter, has been reserved for the subject of 
the present. 

This small market town, with all the appearance of 
a rural village, extends more than a mile along the turn- 
pike road ; and, from its main street, sends out several 
collateral branches, of which one forms itself a consi- 
derable street. Near the center, the houses are built on 
the e^ge of a pleasing eminence, which circles round and 
incloses a charming vale, interspered with wood, and water- 
ed by a little winding stream — forming an extensive and 
beautiful mid-space, between the opposite sides of this part 
of the town. On the descent into this vale, is strikingly 
seen the ruined Gothic gate-way of its ancient monastery ; 
and a little beyond, towering above its solemn shades, appear 
the august ruins of its noble and venerable castle. Most 
of the houses, in this as well as other parts, stand detached 
from each other ; many of them are large and handsome ; 
even the cottages have in general the look of superior 

3 E 2 



404 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 

Foundation of Kenilworth Castle. 

neatness and comfort; and the whole air of the place is 
that of a genteel, as well as delightful residence. It is 
supposed, by Dugdale, to derive its name from Kemilph 
or Kenelm, one of its Saxon possessors, and " worthe" 
signifying a dwelling-place. For its right of holding a 
weekly market and an annual fair, it is indebted to the 
powerful interest of Robert Dudley, Earl of Essex, 
exerted soon after his grand entertainment given to the 
Queen, in the high day of his pride and prosperity. It 
has a considerable manufacture of combs, and another for 
the making of Prussian blue, Glauber salts, and Sal am- 
moniac. Its population is about 2300. 

The magnificent Castle of Kenilworth, once the 
proud defence and the splendid ornament, and still, even 
in its ruins, the glory of the place, traces back its origin to 
the beginning of the 12th century. There was a more an- 
cient castle still, situated on Holm Hill, nearer Stoneleigh: 
but this was destroyed so early as the time of Canute, the 
Dane. The present castle was founded, in the reign of 
Henry I. by Geofrey de Clinton, a man of mean 
origin, who raised himself, by extraordinary talents, to 
the high station of Chamberlain and Treasurer to the 
King, and afterwards of Lord Chief Justice of England. 
The Tower, called, not after himself, but by the popular 
appellation of Caesar's Tower, is the only part, built by 
him, which now remains ; and, for the transmission of his 
name to modern times, he is indebted solely to a little 
tract of verdant turf, at a small distance, which is still 
called Clinton-Green. In the posterity of the founder, 
the castle did not long continue ; but, within a few years 
after his death, whether by purchase or otherwise does not 
appear, it was transferred to the Crown. In the reign of 



ADJACENT TOWNS, ke. 405 



Siege of Kenilworth Castle, 



Henry III. it was granted to Simon de Montfort, the 
famous Earl of Leicester, by whom it was much enlarged 
and strengthened; and, was in no long time afterwards, 
ungratefully made the strong hold of the discontented 
Barons of that turbulent age. Changed, it is well known, 
from the proud and potent favourite, into the daring 
and implacable foe, of his King, Simon de Montfort 
took up arms against him : and, at the head of the asso- 
ciated Barons, defeated him in the battle of Lewes. But 
in the following year, he was himself defeated and slain, 
in the dreadful battle of Evesham ; whence his son, and 
many of his adherents, who escaped the general slaughter, 
fled for refuge to Kenilworth Castle, and shut themselves 
up in it. Hence, however, young Montfort, still appre- 
hensive of danger, withdrew privately, and got safe to 
France ; leaving to Henry de Hastings, the government 
of the castle, which was then threatened, and soon after- 
wards closely besieged, by the royal forces. A most 
vigorous and valiant defence was maintained, for six 
months ; nor did the besieged surrender, till reduced to 
the last extremities of famine. It was during this siege, 
that the Dictum de Kenilworth was issued, enacting, with 
politic lenity " that all who took arms against the royal 
authority, instead of total disinherison, should forfeit the 
value of their lands for five years." Kenilworth Castle 
surrendered December 21, 1 266: and was bestowed on 
Edmund, younger son of the King, afterwards created 
Earl of Leicester and Lancaster. 

At this castle, in the reign of the gallant Edward 
I. was held one of those assemblies, called Round Tables, 
consisting of a hundred knights and as many ladies , who 
were entertained with tilts and tournaments, in the morn- 



406 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 



Round Table at Kenilwortk Castle — Lancaster and Leicester Buildings. 



ing, and dancing in the evening. It is mentioned, as ex- 
traordinary that the ladies wore silk, on this occasion. In 
the next reign, in consequence of the unsuccessful revolt 
of Thomas, son of Edmund, Earl of Lancaster, the castle 
was seized by the Crown ; and Edward II. intended it for 
the place of his own secure, or retired residence. But 
that unfortunate monarch, instead of a palace, found in it 
a prison. For, here, after his forced abdication, he was 
held in confinement; and hence he was, at length, dragged 
away to Berkeley Castle, where he was basely and har- 
barously murdered. 

In the reign of Edward III. the castle was 
restored to the family of the last possessor ; and, by the 
marriage of a female heiress to John of Gaunt, it became 
the property of that Prince, afterwards created Duke of 
Lancaster. By him large additions were made to the 
Castle, including most of the more ancient remaining part, 
which extends from Ccesar's Tower, in a wide compass, 
round to Leicester's Buildings : and these are still known 
by the name of Lancaster's Buildings. On his death, the 
castle descended to his son, afterwards Henry IV. and 
from this time, it continued in the possession of the Crown^ 
till, in the reign of Elizabeth, it was granted to her 
favourite, Robert, Earl of Leicester. 

By this Earl, large additions were, also, made to 
the Castle, in the buildings, which still bear his name ; 
and he is said to have expended in enlarging and adorning 
it, the enormous sum, in those days, of ^60,000. No event, 
in the history of this Castle, is more memorable than the 
magnificent and costly entertainment* given by him to his 



* See Appendix, No. 15. 



ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 407 



The Grand Entertainment at Kenilworth Castle. 



royal mistress ; which lasted seventeen clays, at the ex- 
pense of ^lOGO. a day. In the course of it, was intro- 
duced every amusement of the times ; consisting, among 
the rest, of a grand Regatta on the lake ; and including 
the less elegant amusements of bear-baiting, boxing, 
tumbling, morrice-dancing, and running at the qubiiin.* 
During this whole visit, in compliment to her majesty, the 
great clock, fixed against Caesar's Tower, was stopped : 
and the hand kept constantly pointing to two o'clock, the 
hour of bancpict! 

After the death of Robert Earl of Leicester? 
1588, Kenilworth Castle, with all its domains, descended 
to Sir Robert Dudley, his accomplished son, mentioned^ 
in the preceding chapter. Rut, by an infamous decree of 
that Court of Iniquity, the Star-Chamher, for a pre- 
tended act of contempt of the King's authority, he was 
deprived of this noble inheritance ; which was then given 
to Henky, son of James I. That Prince, however, 
honorably declining to avail himself of the Star-Ckamber 
decree, offered to purchase it — but it was at a price far 
below its real value. J Of the price offered no more than 
^3000. was ever paid ; and even that sum was lost in 
the hands of a merchant, who failed. Thus unjustly 
obtained, on the decease of Prince Henry, Kenilworth 



* This ludicrous Kind of tilting is thus described : — To an upright post, was fixed the 
figure of a man, nud to a moving horizontal beam unequally divided, representing his arms, 
was fixed a target, with a hole in >he middle, at the shorter end, and a large sword at the 
louder. Peasants, mounted on cart horses, ran full tilt at this figure, with a pole or iauce 
in t heir hands; il they succeeded in striking through the hole of the target, they were r.p- 
plaaded ; but if they struck only the taiuct, the short arm o£ the lever retiring, brought 
round die wooden sword with such velocity as generally to unhorse the awkward assailant. 

t See Page 396. 

$ On this occasion a Survey of l!;c Es'ats was taken, which t- given in App No. 10. 



408 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 



Demolition of the Castle. 



Castle became the property of his brother, afterwards 
Charles I. ; and by him it was granted to Carey Karl 
of Monmouth. 

But the melancholy fate of this mighty and ma- 
jestic structure, for so many ages the seat of baronial and 
even royal grandeur, was now fast approaching. During 
the civil wars, it was seized by Cromwell, and given to 
some of his officers ; whose rapacious hands left it— what 
it now is ! They dismantled the towers, beat down the 
walls, destroyed the park, tore up the woods, drained the 
lake, and divided and appropriated the lands. After the 
Restoration, the estate and the ruins of the Castle were 
granted, by Charles II. to Lawrence Hyde, second son 
of the celebrated Lord High Chancellor, created Baron of 
Kenilworth and Earl 'of Rochester : and, by the marriage 
of a female heiress, descended from him, it passed into the 
possession of Thomas Villiers, Baron Hyde, advanced, 
in 177^ to tne dignity of Earl of Clarendon. To him, 
and to the present Earl, for their care in preserving this 
noble mass of ruins from further dilapidation, the thank- 
ful acknowledgments are due of every lover of antiquarian 
remains, and every admirer of picturesque grandeur ! 

Kenilworth Castle, as it now appears, is a vast 
and magnificent pile of ruins, proudly seated on an elevated 
spot, extended round three sides of a spacious inner court — 
exhibiting, in grand display, mouldering walls, dismantled 
towers, broken battlements, shattered staircases, and 
fragments, more or less perfect, of arches and windows, 
some highly ornamented and beautiful. Nor are the usual 
fine picturesque decorations wanting. The grey moss 
creeps over the surface of the stone, and the long spiry 



ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 409 

Ruins of Kenilwoitk Castle. 

grass waves on the heights of the ramparts : to the corners 
and cavities of the roofless chambers, cling the nestling 
shrubs ; whilst, with its deepening shades, the aged ivy ex- 
pands, in clustering masses, over the side-walls and but- 
tresses ; or spreads, in wild luxuriance, to the summits of 
the towers and higher buildings ; or hangs, in graceful fes- 
toons, from the tops of the arches and the tracery of the 
windows. The area, too, round which these stupendous 
remains of ancient baronial power and pride are scattered, 
now covered only with the vivid verdure of grass, and fre- 
quently grazed by groups of cattle or sheep, add much to 
the general effect ; which is still further heightened by the 
deafening noise and darkening flight of innumerable birds, 
hovering in the air, and haunting, as their undisputed 
right, the long forsaken walls : whilst imagination — busied 
in contrasting images of past grandeur with present mourn- 
ful desolation — gives its full impression, to the awful yet 
pleasing solemnity of the whole scene. 

" But, magnificent as these ruins are, they are not 
picturesque !" — So.pronounces the admirable writer,* whose 
opinions, on these subjects, are deservedly entitled to the 
profoundest respect — who, with the magic power of a 
genius, has unlocked^ copious sources of new enjoyment, in 
contemplating the works of nature. " Neither the towers, 
nor any other part, nor the whole together," he remarks, 
" unless well aided by perspective, and the introduction of 
trees, to hide disgusting parts, would make a good picture" 
But, notwithstanding these pictorial defects, of which 
Ireland, also, and other artists have complained — where 

■• Gilpin's Nonhern Tour, Vol. I. page 42. 

i See his ingenious speculations on Picturesque Beauty, scattered throughout his Works. 

3 F 



410 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 

——■—■———■■ —————— n ■ ii i i ■ i n — — — m iitm 

Great Gate-way — hurt's Tozcer — Water Tower — Cesar's Tower. 

is the eye that owns not the powerful fascination, or 
the mind that feels not the solemn enchantment, of 
the scene r 

Approaching the Castle— over a spot, still culled 
after the name of its original founder, Clinton-Green — the 
great Gate-way, huilt by the Earl of Leicester, is pre- 
sented to view. This is a grand square structure ; through 
the center of which was formerly the principal entrance, 
between four turrets, under a lofty arch-way, now walled 
up. It is the most entire of the whole, and is inhabited 
by a respectable farmer. On the ground floor are two 
rooms, one of which is wainscotted with the original oak, 
taken from Leicester's Buildings. Here is a curious chim- 
ney-piece, the upper part of carved wood, the lower of 
alabaster ; exhibiting, amongst other decorations, the arms, 
the crest, the motto and the initials R. L. of the proud, 
prosperous, but unprincipled, and, therefore, surely we may 
add, wretched possessor of this once princely abode. 
Advancing towards the main ruins, at some distance, to the 
left, are seen, scattered fragments of this extensive edifice, 
which included within its walled court, seven acres. On 
this side, at the corner, is hurts Tower ; near it, are the 
Stables; beyond which is the Water Tower ; succeeded bv 
a massy wall, in which is a considerable apartment. 

Crossing the base-court — and bending to the right, 
the inner court appears — now thrown open, by the total 
demolition of two buildings, called King Hennfs Lodgings 
and Sir Robert Dudley's Lobby, which extended from 
Leicester's Buildings towards Caesar's Tower ; completing 
the quadrangle, leaving only space for the gate-way en- 
trance. The vast square building, called Caesar's Tower 9 
is the most ancient, as well as the strongest and most per- 



ADJACENT TOWNS, &e. 411 



Kitchens — Great Hall — White-Hall — Presence Chamber — Privy Chamber. 



feet part of the castle. In some places, the walls are 
sixteen feet thick. Three sides still remain ; the fourth 
was destroyed, by Cromwell's officers. The interior seem* 
to have been one vast room on a floor, with closets 
or recesses in the walls. The great staircase was in the 
south west angle, Some of the paintings on the inside, 
and the place where the great clock was fastened, on the 
outside wall, were till lately visible. — Next to Ccesai's 
Tower, on the west side, are the three Kitchens, of which 
enough only remains to sl:ew their site and extent.— Beyond 
these is the Strong Tower ; which is easily ascended, and 
commands, from its heights, a pleasing prospect over the 
adjacent country, especially towards the village and church 
of Honiley. But how different the view in the proud days 
of Dudley ! Then, spreading over a vast surface, two 
miles in extent, immediately round, were seen the clear 
waters of the lake : on the north side was the ornamented 
garden, hanging on the bank just below the castle wall ; 
and, beyond, stretching on every side, in a Avide circuit of 
twenty miles, was the park, diversified with woods and 
lawns, and extensive plains; and, in one part, occupied by 
a " goodly chase" — " rilled with red deer and other stately 
game for hunting." — 

Descending from this height, the Banqueting 
Hall opens to view — a grand apartment eightvrsix feet 
long and forty- four wide, lighted by noble windows, formed 
with lofty arches, ornamented with rich tracery, and at 
present finely festooned with ivy. Beyond this, to the right, 
is a recess, vulgarly called, Queen Elizabeth's Dressing 
Room, Turning easterly — are seen in succession, the 
White- Hall, the Presence Chamber, and the Privy Cham- 
ber, of which nothing remains but fragments of walls, 

3 F2 



412 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 

. ' " '" ' , ' nss 

Leicester's Buildings — Mortimer's Tower — Tilt-yard — Gallery Tower. 

'~l' I ■ i^ » i " l^— — — « i SmmSmmSmSSSSmmm i j i !■■ ■■ 

staircases, and windows— and the whole range is grandly 
terminated by Leicester's Buildings. These, though last 
erected, look the oldest : and as the materials are a brown 
friable stone, and the walls of inferior thickness, these will 
probably be the first to sink in total dissolution. — Proceed- 
ing round this building, a pleasing walk conducts to 
the southern and western fronts, the latter of which still 
retains considerable uniformity of appearance. Opposite 
this, to the left, was the Salty-Port ; and through an arch- 
way beyond it, the Plaisance, now an orchard, conducting 
to the gardens. Here were formerly, according to an old 
writer, " a fountain," a " noble terrace, with a bower at 
each end," " a sumptuous aviary," and " statues of several 
Heathen Deities.'"— South-east of Leicester's Buildings, is 
Mortimer's Tower, beyond which was the Tilt-yard, ex- 
tending in a strait line of two hundred and forty feet, and 
terminated by the Gallery Tower. 

From the Tilt-yard, a good view of the whole 
grand mass of ruins may be obtained ; a still better from 
the meadows to the south ; but the best of all, perhaps 
is, from the rising ground, north-west, near the road from 
Honiley to Warwick. 

Of the monastery, before noticed, situated east of 
the castle, which was, also, founded and well endowed by 
Geofrey de Clinton, the remains are scanty : and consist 
only of the fragments of a wall, and the venerable ruin of 
an old Gothic Gate-way — called, " I know not why" says 
Mr. Ireland, (i Tantarra" This monastery, appropriated 
to the canons regular of the order of St. Augustine, was 
well endowed ; and continued in a flourishing state, till 
the period of the general Dissolution. — Near these ruins, 



ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 413 

Keniluorth Church — History of Stratford — Present State, 

pleasantly situated, is the Church, an ancient Gothic struc- 
ture, with a good spire springing from a square tower at 
the west end. The principal entrance is through a fine 
spacious Saxon arch, still in a good state of preservation. 

This town, so highly celebrated, as the place, 

*« Where his first infant lays, sweet Shakespeare sung, 
*' Where the last accents faulter'd on his tongue," 

is pleasantly situated, amidst fertile meads, on the banks 
of the Avon — the classical river of England — which 
is hence made navigable for vessels of forty tons bur- 
den, to its confluence with the Severn at Tewkesbury. 
Its name is evidently derived from street, and from its 
situation near the ford over the river. It was a consider- 
able place, in the Saxon times : and constituted part of 
the possessions, belonging to the Bishops of Worcester 9 
for many ages, both before and after the Norman Con- 
quest. Under their protection, it obtained the privilege 
of holding a weekly market, and several annual fairs ; and, 
in the progress of time, arose to some consequence. From 
these Bishops, in the reign of Edward VI. the manerial 
rights were transferred to John Dudley, Duke of Nor- 
thumberland, in exchange for certain lands in Worcester- 
shire ; and, after various transmissions, were, in the reign 
of Charles II. conveyed to the family of the Duke of 
Dorset, in which they still remain. Three times within 
half a century, has this town been visited with the ca- 
lamity of a dreadful fire ; twice, during the reign of 
Elizabeth, when two hundred houses were consumed; 
and once, in that of her successor, when fifty-four houses 
were destroyed in less than two hours. 



414 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 

Municipal Government of Stratford — The Church. 

Stratford* is a neat, airy, and well paved-town. 
The old houses present curious specimens of ancient 
domestic architecture ; and many of the modern houses 
are large and handsome. By the last charter, which was 
obtained in the reign of Charles II. the municipal go- 
vernment is vested in a Mayor, twelve Aldermen, and 
twelve Burgesses f This town has little trade; and even 
that portion of commercial importance s which it once 
possessed, by means of its navigable river, since the con^ 
strnction of so many canals, has ceased to exist. Its 
weekly market is, however, well attended; and it has 
seven or eight annual fairs. The population is 3694. 

Stratford Church, anciently a Collegiate Church 9 
J.s a large and venerable structure; occupying a fine situa- 
tion, on the banks of the Avon ; in the midst of a 
spacious cemetery, more than usually filled with memo- 
rials of the dead, surrounded with the solemn shade of 
numerous trees — which, in one part, planted in rows, and 
bent into an arbour, form a very serene walk, from the 
entrance of the church-yard, to the principal door. The 
different parts of the Church are of different dates. The 
tower is supposed to be almost as old as the era of the 
Conquest, and the rest of the building was erected some 
time during the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. The 
nave is handsome and regular ; divided from its two side 
aisles, by six hexagonal pillars, terminating in pointed 
arches ; above which, on each side, is a range of twelve, 
Gothic windows. Between the nave and the chancel is 
the north and south transept, shut out from the one by 
folding dcors, and from the other by a screen. The 



* See Wheeler's •* history of Stratford" to which the present writer is much in* 
dtbted in drawkig up tiie whole of this account of Stratford. 



ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 419 



Monument of William Clopt&n, Esq of the Ea?-l of Totness. 



Chancel is considered as the most beautiful part of this 
Church. It is large and lofty ; lighted by five uniform 
noble Gothic windows, on each side, and by another 
at the east end; and adorned by some niches, exquisite- 
ly finished, and other Gothic ornaments. Here lies 
Shakespeare ! 

The monuments, within this Church, are nume- 
rous. Some of the most remarkable are three of the 
Clopton Family ; which occupy a small Chapel, in the 
north eastern corner of the nave. The first is an altar 
tomb, without any inscription : supposed to be the ceno- 
taph of Sir Hugh Clopton, Lord Mayor of London, 
in the reign of Henry VII. and the early benefactor of 
this town. The second is the tomb of William Clopton, 
Esq. and his consort Anne, who died in the reign of 
Elizabeth; whose effigies, of white marble, are- placed 
in a recumbent posture, on the slab. The male figure 
is in armour ; the head reclining on a helmet ; the sword 
and gauntlet lying by his side ; and a lion couchant at his 
feet. Above, are several small figures representing the 
children of the deceased ; and the front, sides, and back, 
of the tomb are adorned with their armorial bearings. 
The third is the splendid monument of George Carew, 
Earl of Totness, and Baron oj Clopton, and of Joice, his 
Countess, daughter of William Clopton, Esq. Their 
figures, in alabaster, are placed under a lofty arch, highly 
ornamented ; supported by Corinthian pillars, surmounted 
by a grand achievement and two pyramidical ornaments. 
The Earl is represented io armour, with the mantle of 
estate thrown over it; a coronet on his head ; and a lion 
couchant at his feet. Figures of angels and cherubims, 
pieces of armour ai;d warlike accoutrements, form the 
profuse ornaments of tflis gaudy rather than elegmt mo- 



416 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 



Monument of Dean Balsall—of Mr. Combe — of Mr. Kendall. 



nument. The Earl of Totness was distinguished, as a 
military officer, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth ; first, 
in the splendid affair of Cadiz, under the Earl of Essex ; 
and, afterwards, as Commander in Ireland, against the 
rebels. He was Master of the Ordnance to Elizabeth 
and her two successors, and obtained other high honors. 

In the Chancel, besides the monument of Shake- 
speare, are several worthy of notice. Under the north 
wall, is a very ancient altar tomb, formed of alabaster, 
on which are represented some Scripture pieces, now much 
defaced. There is no inscription ; but it is supposed, both 
by Leland and Dugdale, to be the tomb of Dean Bal- 
sall, the founder of the chancel, who died in 14gi. Near 
the east end, is the monument of John Combe, Esq.* 
whose effigy, dressed in a long gown, with a book in his 
hand, is placed in a recumbent posture, under an orna- 
mented arch, supported by Corinthian pillars. He died 
l6l4. Against the east wall is, also, an elegant monu- 
ment, by Rysbrack, consecrated to the memory of James 
Kendall, Esq. of Stratford, who died 1751. It consists 
of a marble tablet, adorned with a bust of the deceased ; 
a profile of his lady, on a medallion ; and two well-exe- 
cuted figures, one resting on the medallion, the other 
holding a serpent entwined. 

Besides this handsome Church, at a small distance 
from it, is the Chapel, anciently belonging to the Guild of 

* ft is upon this gentleman, accused of usurious practices, that (he we!! known satiri- 
cal epi'aph is said, but upon no good authority, to have been written by Shakespearb — 
who was his neighbour and his acquaintance, and who was kind'y noticed by him in his 

will— 

" Ten in the hundred lies here ingraved, 

" 'Tis a hundred to ten his sou! is not saved; 

*' If any man ask, who lies in this tomb ? 

" Oh ! oh ! quoth the devil, 'tis ray /omm-a-Combi. 



ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 



Chapel — Guildhall — Grammat School — Alms Bouses — Market-House. 

the Holy Cross, which was dissolved at the period of the 
Reformation. It is a fine old structure, originally founded 
in 1443 : but a great part was rebuilt in the Gothic style, 
in the reign of Henry VII. by Sir Hugh Clopton ; to 
whose memory, a monument has been since erected within 
it. In 1 804, when this chapel was repairing, some curious 
fresco paintings* were accidentally discovered, on the in- 
terior face of the walls, concealed under coatings of white- 
wash. Those in the chancel, eleven in number, repre- 
sented various passages in the Legend of the Holt/ Cross ; 
which, being in plaster, were, in the reparation, unavoid- 
ably destroyed. But those in the body of the church, 
painted on the stone, are preserved. They are representa- 
tions of The Resurrection — The Day of Judgment — The 
Combat of St. George— and The Murder of Becket. 

Near this Chapel, is the Guildhall, anciently be- 
longing to the same religious fraternity, supposed to have 
been erected in the 13th century. In the lower apart- 
ments, the public business of the corporation is now 
transacted ; and, in those above, is the Free Grammar 
School, founded in the reign of Henry VI. by a native of 
Stratford, named Jolepe. Contiguous to the Guildhall, 
is a long range of Alms Houses, into which twelve poor 
men and twelve poor women are admitted ; who receive a 
small weekly allowance of money, besides clothing. The 
Market House, called the Cross, is an ancient, and 
the Town Hall, a modern and handsome building. The 
great room, sixty feet in length and thirty in width, is 
adorned by a portrait of John Frederic, Duke of Dorset, 



* Of tliese, drawings were taken bv Mr. ris« T ii.r, , of Hoiton ; and outiifte copied 
executed at ibe Ptfij&ulograpfiic Pi ss. 



418 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 

Portrait of Garrick — Notice of John, Robert, and Ralph de Stratford. 

presented by the Dutchess; another of Shakespeare, 
painted by Wilson ; and a third of Garrick, by Gains- 
borough. In the last, the great Actor appears, leaning 
on a pedestal, and pointing to the bust of the mighty 
niaster of the Drama, whose scenes he so truly and power- 
fully depicted. It is a fine painting ; but the costume is 
considered as very inappropriate. 

Stratford had the honor of giving birth to three 
dignitaries of the church, all of the same family, and who 
all flourished in the reign of Edward III. These were 
John, Robert, and Ralph de Stratford- The first was 
Archbishop of Canterbury and Lord Chancellor of Eng- 
land; the second, his younger brother, was Bishop of 
Chichester, and also Lord Chancellor ; and the third was 
the nephew of the two former, and was consecrated Bishop 
of London in 1339- A chantry, for five priests, was 
founded by the first of these distinguished prelates ; and a 
house, called the College, for their residence, was built 
by the last ; which was taken down only about sixteen 
years ago. 

But the great name, which gives its proud and 
pre-eminent distinction to Stratford, is yet to be more dis- 
tinctly noticed ; and the writer feels his pen move with 
almost awful reverence, as he approaches it. He need not 
say — it is Shakespeare — the first poetical genius of the 
world— whose connection with this favoured town, it is 
now his duty to trace. They, whom the enthusiasm of 
admiration, in any degree, touches, which the rare pro- 
ductions of that mighty genius so powerfully awaken — 
who hasten hither, as to a sacred spot, with the devotion 
of an ancient pilgrim, to the shrine of his saint-— whom 
the -thought pleases or enraptures of treading the same 



ADJACENT TDWNS, &c 419 



Birth-place of Shakespeare — Place of his early Education. 

ground, which he trod ;* and of beholding the scenes, 
from which his mind took its earliest impressions — will 
naturally begin their inquiries with eagerly asking tvhere 
Shakespeare ivas born ? The answer they receive will 
conduct them to a lowly mansion, still subsisting much as 
it then was, situated in a small street, called Henley- 
Street. Till the year 1806, it appears", that these premises 
were occupied by the family of Harte, the seventh in 
descent from Jone, the sister of Shakespeare, to whom 
they were bequeathed, by his will. At that time, they were 
sold ; and, instead of a single habitation, as formerly, they 
are now divided into two. One part has been new-fronted 
with brick ; but the other part still retains its old front of 
timber plastered. The rooms are of scanty dimensions ; 
and, now at least, of dreary appearance. Yet, in one of 
these rooms, April 23, 1564, the immortal Bard of Eng- 
land drew his first breath ! 

His father, John Shakespeare, was a respectable 
woolstapler, who enjoyed a small hereditary estate : his 
mother's name was Anne Arden. They had ten children. 
Of these, William, the Poet, was the eldest ; and for his * 
education, as the best, which they could afford, with so 
large a family, he was sent to the Free Grammar School, 
in this town. This building still remains, much in its 
ancient form ; and hither the curious enquirer will na- 
turally follow him. It is situated over the Guildhall ; ^nd, 
here, in a large unfurnished chamber, it is said, was for- 
merly the school. In that room, therefore, most probably, 
did Shakespeare receive his early instruction: which m- 



* Movemur enim nescio quo pacto locis ipsis, in quibus eorum quos diligirau* aut 
admirarauradsunt vestigia. — Cic. 

3 G 2 



420 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 



Shakespeare's Marriage — his Family. 



eluded, certainly a pretty good knowledge of his own 
language ; and extended, probably, to a some slight know- 
ledge of Latin. " He had small Latin and less Greek," is 
the report of his friend, Ben Jonson. " It seems likely," 
says the great Biographer of the Poets,* "that he learned 
Latin enough to make him acquainted with construction ; 
but that he never advanced to the easy perusal of Latin 
Authors." This is all, at least w r e can possibly suppose, 
that Shakespeare attained, in the Strafford Grammar 
School: though some have conceived, that in after life, 
he acquired a more extensive knowledge of the Roman 
language, and some scanty knowledge even of the Grecian, 
and that he could read with facility both the French and 
the Italian. § 

From school, however, he was removed too early* 
to admit of any great proficiency. His father had no wish 
to make him a scholar ; and probably wanted his assis- 
tance, in his business, at home. It seems pretty well as- 
certained that he followed the same business, for some 
years ; and, before the age of 19, he married Anne Hath- 
away, daughter of a substantietl yeoman of Shoitery, 
about a mile from Stratford. By her, he had firat a 
daughter, and then, a son and a daughter, twins, all born 
before he was out of his minority. Soon after the birth of 
his twins, an unhappy aifair obliged him suddenly to re- 
linquish his business, and his home. In a youthful frolic, 
with some disorderly companions, he had been guilty of 
stealing deer, from the park of Sir Thomas Lucy, of 
Charlecote ; and had aggravated his oifenee, by publishing 

* Johnson's Preface to Shakespeare. 

i See, 011 this subject, Farmer's Essay on the Learning of Shakespeare. — Wfiallet'o 
Inquiry into the Learning of Shakespeare . — Preface to " Aphorisms from Shakespeare," &c. 



ADJACENT TOWNS, kc. 421 

■ ■■!■!— !■!!■-■ UIIIJHW MIHI III ||>»«— «|| 1 1 1111 I W ■ IIIH M I I I H HI _. .. I .1 |T|I I — 

His Flight to London — his Theatrical Career. 

some bitter lampoons against the person, he had injured. 
Let not our admiration of the poet impel us to excuse or 
palliate the errors of the man ; nor let us hesitate to give 
up these early indiscretions of Shakespeare to whatever 
censure, they may be thought fairly to deserve. # Being 
threatened with the vengeance of the law, to avoid it, he 
fled: and about the age of 2], or 22, he left Stratford, 
and sought security from present danger, and means of 
future subsistence, in London. 

It is not the purpose of the present slight memoir, 
to pursue the history of Shakespeare, beyond the limits 
of its immediate connexion with Stratford. Suffice it to 
sav, therefore, what is indeed so well known, that on his 
arrival in the metropolis, he was introduced to the theatre ; 
that he appeared, first, as a player ; and, afterwards, as a 
dramatic writer ; that, in the former character, he sunk 
below the praise of mediocrity ; but rose, in the latter, to 
a height of fame and glory, which none have reached, 
either before or since. His reputation spread ; his conse- 
quence grew; he became the manager of the theatre, as well 
as the author of its most admired productions. The smiles 
o£ royal favor beamed upon hirn ; the patronage of the 
great attended him ; and the applauses of the public 
followed him. He soon acquired a fortune, equal to the 
moderation of his wishes ; and, in the midst of his pros- 
perous course, advanced scarcely beyond the meridian of 
life, he adopted the extraordinary resolution, of relin- 
quishing for ever the dazzling prospect of increasing honor 
and riches, and passing the remainder of his days, in tran- 



" A -re says, when candidly it looks on Youth, 
" By the roinjnibrance of our days foregone 
u Such were our faults— O then we thought them none !"-— Wint. Tale. 



422 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 



Shakespeare's retreat to Stratford — New Place. 



qoil retirement, amidst the beloved scenes of his childhood 
and youth. According to the most reasonable computa- 
tion, Shakespeare retired from public life, with a fortune 
of not more than ^200» a year — equal, it is conceived, 
to ^lOOO. at present. 

Somewhere about the year l6ll, as well as can 
now be ascertained, Shakespeare " bade the town fare- 
well ;" and returned to his native place, after an absence* 
of considerably more than twenty years. During all this 
time, however, it may well be supposed, that he occasion- 
ally visited the spot, ci where once his careless childhood 
strayed ;" where his family and his relatives still lived ; 
and whither his thoughts with fondest recollection un- 
ceasingly turned. Aubrey, born about ten years, after- 
Shakespeare's death, who took great pains to gain infor- 
mation, who asserts, however, a great deal upon very 
slender evidence, relates " that he was wont to go to his 
native country once a year." It is, indeed, certain that so 
long as fourteen years, previous to his final retirement, lie 
had completed the purchase of a large and handsome 
house, in Stratford ; to which one hundred and seven 
acres of land, were afterwards added. This, when he had 
repaired and fitted it up to his mind, he called New Place; 
and hither, it is scarcely to be doubted, he frequently re- 
tired, before it became his constant residence. It was 
situated near the Chapel, and was pulled down only about 
fifty years ago. It was then converted into a garden, the 
wall of which, next to the street, still marks the site of it ; 
and even this the lover of Shakespeare will not view, 



* '* Some leave their friends to dignify them more, 
«' B? Ijonor'd absence, and endeared return." 

Two Gent, of Verona, 



ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 423 



His Retired Life at Stratford, 



without interest ; especially when he shall be told, that 
here probably, some of the finest of his plays were written. 
The house was originally built by Sir Hugh Clopton, 
and was one of the best in the town ; since, it is called, 
in the will of that gentleman, the great house* Here, in 
the bosom of his family, in the society of his friends, and 
in the exercise of his own high powers of mind, Shakes- 
peare passed the last days of his life, according to every 
account, happy in himself and his family, esteemed by his 
acquaintance, honored by all. His wife was still living ; 
and though they had no more than the three children, born 
soon after their marriage ; yet there surely is no sufficient 
reason to conclude, from that or any other known circum- 
stance, either that Shakespeare did not love his wife, or 
that she was undeserving of his love. She resided, with- 
out doubt, in the same house with him : and continued to 
inhabit it after his death. His son died at the age of 13; 
but his two daughters survived him. They were both very 
happily married ; the eldest to Dr. Hall, a physician of 
good practice in the town ; and the other to Mr. Queny, 
a man cf respectable character in the neighbourhood, who 
is styled gentleman, in the Stratford register. Besides 
social pleasures, literature and composition must, no doubt, 
have occupied a considerable portion of Shakespeare's 
retired life. According to the dates assigned to his several 
plays, by Mr. Malone, " The Tempest;' and " The Twelfth 
Nighty if not " Othello;' were then written. If we admit 
the probable account of his annual, or at least occasional 
retreat, from the bustle of London, to the quiet of Strat- 
ford, how many other of his plays, may have been here 



* Aa Engraving of it in its original state may be seen in Ireland's Picturesque Views, 
Kkenfroman old drawing, found, as he sa V s y among the Clopton Paper*, which has 
since been lost. 



424 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 



Shakespeare's Death. 



composed — who can tell?— Of his country amusements, 
may we not also conjecture that gardening made a part ? 
— since it is universally believed that the celebrated mul- 
berry-tree was planted by his own hand. 

But these days of literary or rural occupation, of 
tranquil and social enjoyment, were, alas! of no long 
duration : and though he had scarcely reached the sixth 
of his own " seven ages," 1 * he was now hastening to "that 
bourne, from whence no traveller returns." Four or five 
years comprise the utmost extent of his tranquil and happy 
retirement at Strafford. If the records of his life are 
few, of memorials of his death, we have none. His 
will is dated March 25, l6\6 ; but is thought to have been 
drawn up in the preceding February ; in the preamble of 
which, he is* said to be in " perfect health and memory/' 
Whether this expression means more than mental sound- 
ness, requisite for testamentary dispositions, cannot now be 
ascertained. If it refer to bodily health, it would prove 
that Shakespeare's death was preceded by no lon£ or ling- 
ering illness ; and that he continued to enjoy life almost 
as long as life lasted. All, however, that is certainly 
known, is, that the 23d of April following, which was the 
day of his birth, proved also, like Petrarch's, the day of 
his death ; and that, with the completion of his 52d year, 
closed " the strange eventful history" of his extraordinary 
life. He died, as he had lived, not surely unconscious of 
those mighty powers of intellect, with which nature had so 
lavishly gifted him, and which his own study and observa- 
tion had so wonderously expanded and exalted ; yet with- 
out much thought, certainly with no distinct anticipation, 

T* ■■ ■ i ■■■„,-, r . - , . -- , - , 1 ,, , -■ -.■ - , __ j- ., i- .. .. i 

* As You Like It. 



ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 425 

Shakespeare's Grave-stone — the Inscription. 

of future fame — much less of fame so brilliantly and peer- 
lessly splendid as that, which has since irradiated his name 
with its glory ; and which promises to endure, undiminish- 
ed, as Johnson finely expressed it, 

" 'till eternity, with power sublim**, 



u Shall mark the mortal course of hoary time !" 

It is delightful to be able, on reasonable evidence, to add, 
that the greatest of poets was one of the most amiable of 
men ; that the most purely and sublimely moral of all 
writers was himself moral ; that a temper unusually placid 
and cheerful, and manners uniformly gentle and obliging, 
were supported and dignified by virtuous propriety and 
rectitude of conduct. 

We have traced the history of Shakespeare, from 
the place of his birth and early education, to that of his 
chosen residence, during the retired and closing years of 
his life. One more solemn step will conduct to the hal- 
lowed spot, where lie enshrined his mortal remains. This, 
as already noticed, is in the chancel of the Church. It is 
on the north side, near the altar. Here, a plain blue flat 
stone marks the spot, where the sacred ashes repose. On 
it are inscribed the following well-known strange lines, said, 
but by no means proved, to have been penned by himself. 

" Good From! f r Jesvs sake fori eare 
" To digg the dvst encloasc-d He;\re 
,l Blesse be ye man yt spares the s stones 
" And cvrst be he yt moves my bones." 

Above this spot, against the north wall, is the 
monument, elevated about five feet from the ground. 
Under an arch, is placed the half-length effigv of the 
Poet, between two Corinthian pillars, with gilded bases 
and capitals, supporting the entablatuie : on the centre of 

3 H 



426 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c 



Shakespeare's Monument — the Inscription. 

which are his armorial bearings,* surmounted with a 
death's head ; and on each side, a boy figure, one grasping 
a spade ; the other holding in his left hand an inverted 
torch, and resting his right on a skull. The figure is in a 
sitting posture, in the act of composing; a cushion is plac- 
ed before him ; a pen is held in his right hand,§ and his left 
rests on a scroll. On that scroll, originally were inscribed 
the celebrated lines beginning "the cloud capt towers," &c. 
These ought surely never to have been erased, and ought 
as surely to be forthwith restored. Below the effigies 
are the following incriptions : — - 

" Judicio Pylivm, genio Socratem, arte Maronern, 
" Terra tcgit, popvlvs Mscret, Olympvs llabet." 

" Stay passenger, why £ocst thov by so fast, 
" Read if thov cans-t, whom enviovs Death hath plast, 
" Within this monvment, Shakspeare, wi:li whome 
" Qvich natvre dirie; whose name doth deck ys torn be. 
** Far more then cost; Sieh all yt. he hath writt, 
" Leaves living art, but pnge to serve his witt." 

Obiit Anno Dei. 1616. JEtatis 53, Die 23. Ap. 

As this monument was erected, probably by his 
own relations, perhaps by Dr. Hall, his executor, but cer- 
tainly within seven years, at the latest, after his death, 
when his features were fresh in every one's recollection ; 
as the bust discovers a considerable resemblance to the 
earliest prints, given of him in the folio edition of his 



* Or, on abend sable, a tilting spear of the first, point upwards, headed argent. 
Crest, A falcon displayed argent, supporting a spear in pale or. 

§ There is a story that Garrick, in pointing with his stick, to the right hand, knocked 
off the pen and the finger which held if. The former, the actor took away ; the latter was 
restored by a modeller in the town • who, however, forgot to give the poet a new pen. A 
common Goose Quill is now supplied; which.it may be supposed, is not unfrequently 
changed, from the desire of pilgrims to possess something that may be called a relic oi 

SwAKIiSPEARE. 



ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 42/ 

Shameful indignity offered to^S/utkespeaj^e's Bust. 

works ; arid as a tradition prevails in the town that it was 
taken from a cast after nature ; this bust may fairly claim 
to be regarded as a likeness, though the countenance dif- 
fers considerably from that of the noble statue, in West- 
minster Abbey. The eyebrows are strongly marked, the 
forehead is unusually high, the head nearly bald, the beard 
pointed, and the whole air of the face is thoughtful — 
yet cheerful — in which cheerfulness, indeed, prevails. 

This bust was oris:inallv coloured to resemble life • 
and before that colouring was, by the daring hand of in- 
novation, obliterated, it is thus described : " The eyes 
were of a light hazel colour, and the hair and beard au- 
burn. The dress consisted of a scarlet doublet, over which 
was thrown a loose black gown, without sleeves. The 
upper part of the cushion was of a crimson and the lower 
part of a green colour, with gilt tassels." — In the year 
1748, the monument was carefully repaired, and the 
colouring reverently preserved, at the instance of a 
company of players, then acting in the town : who, to 
defray the expense, appropriated the receipts, arising from 
the performance of Othello. All this was well. But 
then came, in 1793, Mr. Malone — who, in taking a cast 
of the effigy, damaged the colouring : and, either from 
wretched taste, or still more wretched parsimony, instead 
of repairing what he had damaged, with self-assumed 
authority, ordered the whole to be whitened ! But surely 
to the assumption of such authority, in the case at least 
of what must now be considered as a public monument, 
the right may be fairly and utterly denied. If a private 
individual, be his pretensions what they may, is thus iVee 
to enter the sacred repositories of the dead, and to intro- 
duce violent change^, according to his own taste or 

3 H 2 



428 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 



The surviving Family of Shn kespeare 

i. i i 'i' ii vr '■ ' i 



caprice, what sepulchral memorials can be safe ? Good 
taste, too, it is contended, would cert? ; nly not have dic- 
tated the present change, any moio than right feeling 
would have endured the thought of it.* Such statues as 
these Mr. Malone ought to have considered, were always 
intended to be coloured, and indeed absolutely require it : 
because the cut is rough, and not near enough to the ex- 
pression of resemblance, without the aid of colouring. It 
is impossible to add, but with increasing pain and disgust, 
that exactly the same indignity was offered, by the same 
gentleman, to the neighbouring tomb of John Com$e, 
Esq. Surely there is somewhere a guardian care, which 
ought to have prevented these acts of violation, and which 
ought now at least to repair tjie mischiefs they have pro-* 
duced ! 

The wife of Shakespeare survived him nearly 
8 years. She died Aug. 6, 1623, and was buried between 
his grave and the north wall of the Chancel. J His eldest 
daughter, married to Dr, Hall, died July 11, 1649, 
leaving only one daughter, Elizabeth ; and was buried, 
together with her husband, who died before her, in the 
chancel. His second daughter, Mrs. Queny, had three 
children, who all died young. Elizabeth Hall, there- 
fore, as she left no issue, though twice married, was the 
last lineal descendant of the great poet. Her first hus- 
band was Thomas Nashe, Esq. of Welcombe ; her second, 



* The following lines were written in the book, kept at the Church, of the names 
of all who visit the tomb of Shakespeare:— 

44 Stranger ! to whom this monument is shewn, 
•• Invoke the Poet's curse upon Malone; 
9* Whose meddling zeal his barbarous taste displays, 
** And smears his tomb-stone, as he marr'd his plays." 
Oct.*, 1810.- t See Appendix, No. 17, 



ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 429 



History of New Place. 



Sir John Barnard, Knight, of Abingdon, near Nor- 
thampton. She died February 17, 1669, and was buried at 
Abingdon. There is no monument erected to her memory. 

New Place, whilst Mrs. Shakespeare resided in 
it, after her husband's decease, became, in 1643, the scene 
of royal grandeur. For, here, Henrietta Maria, Queen 
of Charles I. kept her court for three weeks, during the 
civil war. On June 22, she entered Stratford in triumph 
at the head of a considerable force; and was soon afterwards 
joined by Prince Rupert, followed also by a large 
body of troops. With these, July 13, she proceeded from 
Stratford to the vale of Kineton, where she was met by the 
King, as already noticed.* On the death of her mother, 
New Place passed into the possession first of Mrs. Hall, 
Shakespeare's daughter, and then of Elizabeth Hall, 
his grand-daughter, afterwards Lady Barnard. On her 
decease it was sold ; and became, at length, the property 
of Sir Hugh Clopton, recorder of Stratford, who died 
1751. By him, New Place was completely repaired, and 
a modern handsome front built to it : and it was he, who, 
in 1742, had the honour of entertaining Mr. Garrick, Mr. 
Macklin, and Mr. Delane, under Shakespeare's mul- 
beny-tree, then standing in the garden. After his death, 
the premises were again sold ; and unhappily fell into the 
hands of a very graceless possessor, one Mr. Gastrell; 
who, though styled reverend, was utterly incapable of lift- 
ing an eye of comprehension to the transcendant merits of 
his illustrious predecessor. This person began his sacri- 
legious depredations, by ordering the mulberry tree of 
Shakespeare, which w 7 as then remarkably large and 

* See page So<i» 



'430 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 

Destruction of Shakespeare's Mulberry Tree — Demolition of New Place. 

flourishing, to be cut down and cleft in pieces for fire 
wood! This act of brutish insensibility^ or malignant 
perversity, was done, merely to prevent the trouble of 
answering the enquiries of the curious ; and was followed 
by another, still more audaciously violent. In consequence 
of a dispute about parish assessments, the house itself 
was ordered to be razed to the ground ; the materials to 
be sold ; and the reverend perpetrator of these outrages 
left Stratford, says its historian, f * amidst the curses of 
the inhabitants."* It must be added, that the mulberry 
wood was very considerately bought by Mr. Thomas 
Sharpe, of Stratford ; who converted every fragment of it 
into little boxes, tobacco stoppers, and other small trinkets ; 
all which were so eagerly purchased — and so plentifully 
supplied — that at length doubts naturally arose whether the 
wood was all genuine. These soon called forth a solemn 
affidavit from Mr. Sharpe, affirming that no single article 
of counterfeit wood had ever been made or sold by him. 
Whether faith was thus completely re-assured, we have 
no means of knowing. 

But with the single exception we have noticed — 
it would be unjust to withhold our applauding testimony 
to the high veneration, with which the memory of the 
great poet, has ever been cherished in his native place. 
This is immediately discovered in the signs and inscrip- 
tions, which are scattered up and down the town. One, 
in particular, the Shakespeare's Head, near the Guildhall, 
deserves notice ; because it is a copy from the por- 
trait, with the lines underneath, which is given in the 
early folio edition of his works. But the greatest monu- 



Whieler's History of Stratford, page 138 



■ 



ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 43 1 

Shakespeare's Hall — his Statue — Garrick's Jubilee. 

merit of the public regard is the Town Hall, a handsome 
building of the Tuscan order,, erected in 1769, and honored 
with the name of Shakespeare's Hall. In a niche, at the 
north front, a good statue of the immortal bard is placed. 
The figure appears leaning on a pillar, and pointing to a 
scroll, on which the well known lines from " The Mid- 
summer Night's Dream"* are inscribed ; and, on the 
pedestal, these, from Hamlet, so often and so happily 
applied to himself. 

ft take him for all i.i all, 

« We shall not look upon his like again." 

Within the Town Hall, is also a large painting of the 
bard, by Wilson. — He is drawn, sitting in an antique 
chair, in the attitude of inspiration, with books and manu- 
scripts scattered about, on the ground. As if conscious of 
his inability to do justice to the great original, the painter 
has very discreetly thrown the face into deep shade. 

Thts painting, the statue, and a portrait of him- 
self, before noticed, were all given by Garrick, on the day 
of the far-famed Jubilee, Sept. 1769 — and thus we are 
brought to a story, which we ardently wish, for the credit of 
the town, could be blotted out of the pages of its history. 
Where honor was sincerely and even devoutly intended, 
never surely, was the memory of a sublime genius, so dis- 
honored, as by the low pageantry of that day ! An ex- 
ception may, indeed, be made in favor of the Ode of Gar- 



* " The Poet's eje, in a fine frenzy rolling, 

" Doth glance from Heaven to Earth, frorn Earth to Heaven ; 

" And as imagination bodies foith 

" The furms of things unknown, the Poet's pen 

" Turns them to shapes ; and gives to airv nothing 

" A loca! habitation and a name." 



432 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c 

Charlecote House. 

rick, which contains some fine passages : hut the oration 
was hardly worthy either the speaker or the subject — in 
its criticisms, so poor and puny! — in its composition, though 
florid, yet so feeble ! — and the rest of the whole train of 
ceremony was scarcely superior to the meanest pantomime, 
that was ever exhibited in the most degenerate times of 
his own theatre ! We tremble to hear the hint thrown 
out of another intended jubilee ! He must be a bold man 
who hopes to succeed, where even Garrick has failed !* 

Cljarfecote '$oit£e»' 

About two miles from Stratford is Charlecote 
House, the seat of the Rev. John Lucy, delightfully 
situated on the banks of the Avon; commanding from its 
windows, fine views of that beautiful river, gracefully 
winding through the luxuriant grounds of the extensive 
park ; which is every where enlivened by groups of deer 
and cattle, and nobly adorned by towering and majestic 
trees, spreading their broad and ample shade all around^ 
flourishing in all the pride of forest freedom, untouched 
by the edge of the axe, for ages. 

The present mansion was erected by Sir Thomas 
Lucy, early in the reign of Elizabeth. It is built of 
brick, with stone coignes ; and consists of a spacious center, 
with two large projecting Avings. Its original character 
has been considerably injured by the changes of modern 
times ; yet, in its general appearance, it still wears the 
venerable air of antique grandeur. The principal front 



* See Mr. Ban ton's printed proposals for a new Jubilee. See, for an account of the 
Jasr Jubilee, Wheeler's History of Stratford ; interspersed with extravagant praises, 
which hi- better judgment, it can hardly be doubled, will lead him, in the next edition of 
^Ait useful work, at least to qualify, if not wholly to retract. 



ADJACENT TOWNS, &*. 433 



1 ucy Family. 



retains more than any other part its ancient form: and 
the great gateway, standing at a small distance before it, 
still subsists as it originally was, a fine specimen of the 
gothic style, which prevailed at the time of its erection. 
The interior apartments are numerous, but not large nor 
grand, with the exception of the great hall. This is a 
noble room, of lofty elevation and ample dimensions ; fur- 
nished with a spacious music gallery, ornamented with 
fine painted glass, and adorned by several portraits, chiefly 
of the Lucy family. 

This family is of great antiquity, and, through a 
long succession of generations, was greatly distinguished, 
by its immense wealth and influence in this county. Its 
pedigree is deduced from Roger de Charlcote, in the 
reign of Richard I.: but it was not till that of Henry 
III. that the family assumed the name of Lucy. 

Sir Thomas Lucy, by whom Charlecote House was 
built, is the well known person, so broadly marked, as the 
prosecutor of Shakespeare, for stealing his deer ; whose 
portrait is supposed to be drawn, under the mean and con- 
temptible character of Justice Shallow, in the irresistible 
scenes of the " Merry Wives oj Windsor? The intended 
allusion can hardly, indeed, admit of doubt. Fulstajf 
brought before the Justice for " stealing his deer" — " the 
dozen white luces of his coat," so plainly pointing to the 
luces hauriant of the Lucy arms — and " the old coat of 
three hundred years standing," as plainly referring to the 
antiquity of the family — all this is too clear to be misun- 
derstood. But though some satirical allusion to his former 
prosecutor is evidently meant, yet it may be questioned 
whether the Poet realiv intended that Sir Thomas should 



434 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 

Sir Thomas hucy % the prosecutor of Shakespeare. 

be taken as the prototype of the vain, weak, and petulant 
Justice, in his whole character. Or, if he did, it would 
not follow that his resentment did not carry him beyond 
the bounds of truth and fairness. The threatened prose- 
cution of a disorderly young man, who had more than once 
robbed his park, and who defied his power, and annoyed his 
peace, by publishing lampoons against him, is surely de- 
serving of no very severe censure — even though that young 
man, many years afterwards, turned out to be a Shakes- 
peare ! Yet this seems to be the whole of Sir Thomas's 
supposed misdoings-— nor did he ever, as far as appears, 
pursue his fugitive, or urge his threat to actual prosecution* 
And for this, shall it be said, that he deserves to be held 
up to the dislike and contempt of all future ages ? Is it 
certain, at all events, that the picture of the Poet is not 
drawn in something of the spirit of a caricature ? And is 
it fair to look for the true features of the face, in the hi- 
deous, or even slight deformities, of a caricature ? 

A far more correct idea of Sir Thomas's character, 
it is apprehended, may be deduced from an admirable in- 
scription, drawn up by himself, signed with his own name, 
and placed over the tomb of his consort, in Charlecote 
church.* Stronger evidence could scarcely be desired of 
sound and discriminating judgment, and of the best and the 
noblest feelings, than that inscription affords. He, whose 
pen could trace, and whose mind could dictate those lines, 
pr even approve and adopt them, if supposed to be written 
by another, could not be weak or vain ; and though he 
might be provoked by insolence to some severity, yet in his 
natural or habitual disposition, he could not be unjust, 
cruel, or oppressive. 

• See Appendix, No. 18. 



ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 435 

Monuments of the Lucy Family. 

• ' ■ ■ ■ ' " ' f * 

The lady whose merits are so fragrantly embalmed 
in the tender and fervid, yet well-judged praises of a hus- 
band—as well as Sir Thomas Lucy himself — lies buried 
under an altar tomb, on the south side of the chancel in 
Charlecote church. On its slab, their effigies, finely exe- 
cuted, are placed in a recumbent posture; the male habited 
in armour, the female figure in a mantle and petticoat; 
their heads resting on pillows, their hands elevated and 
joined ; and, at the feet, is the family crest. She was the 
daughter of Thomas Acton, of Sutton, Worcestershire^ 
Esq. and died Feb. 10, 1595. Sir Thomas died Aug. 18> 
1600 : but, for him, there is no inscription. 

After his decease, his great estates passed into the 
possession of his son, and afterwards of his grandson, who 
w T ereboth named Thomas, and who both obtained the honor 
of knighthood. The former lies buried in a little chapel, to 
the north of Charlecote church. His monument, erected 
by his widow, is imposing, but gaudy in appearance, and 
tasteless in design. The figure of the deceased appears 
lying on a spacious tomb. Above, are three small arches, 
from the entablature of which are two projections, sup- 
ported by two Corinthian pillars : on the front of the 
tomb are fourteen small figures ; and before, kneeling on 
a pillow, is the widow, habited in weeds, with hands joined, 
in the attitude of prayer. This monument is without 
any inscription. — The third Sir Thomas Lucy, dis- 
tinguished as a senator and a scholar, as well as a sol- 
dier, died Dec. 8, 1630, and was buried, also, under a 
splendid monument, in Charlecote church. Beneath three 
ornamented arches, supported by four massy pillars, are 
the effigies of Sir Thomas and his lady, the daughter and 
heiress of Thomas Spencer, of Claverdon, Esq. ; the fe- 

3 1 2 



436 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 

A , 'U 1 ' ' ■ ' , ' '- ■ ' "1-" 

History of Coventry. 

male figure recumbent, but the male only reclining. On 
the back of the tomb, on the one side, appears a library of 
classical authors, and, on the other, a favorite war horse, 
to whose speed and courage, in a moment of imminent 
danger, it is said, he once owed his safety* A long Latin 
inscription celebrates, in high strains, the patriotic spirit, 
the love of learning, the generosity and charity, the con- 
jugal and parental affection of Sir Thomas ; and a few 
modest lines, afterwards added, bear testimony to the 
amiable virtues of his Lady, by whom, during her life- 
time, the monument was erected. 



Cofcntrp* 

To trace distinctly the history of this very ancient 
city, or to describe minutely its present state, would form 
of itself a volume. It is only a slight and very imperfect 
sketch, which the necessary limitation of a few scanty pages 
will here admit. 

Coventry is supposed to have been a British town* 
In the Saxon times it was certainly a considerable place ; 
and the names of its early and powerful protectors, 
Leofric, and his lady Godiva, are still celebrated. 
Though the well-known story of this pious and benevolent 
lady, for such she really was, with all its strange circum- 
stances, not with decency to be described, is evidently 
fabulous ;* yet the city owes too much obligation to her 
patronage and that of her lord, not to cherish their 
memory with gratitude. By them was laid the foundation 
of its subsequent prosperity; and under the fostering care 
of their descendants, after the Norman Conquest, Coventry 



* See Pegoje's Doubts, &c. given in Gouch's Camden, v, 'Z. p. 46c 



ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 437 

Coventry Cross — Municipal Government — Present State. 

continued to increase and flourish. Till the reign of 
Richard II. it was an open town. In that reign the 
walls, begun 40 years before, were completed. They 
were three miles in circumference, strengthened by 32 
towers, and furnished with 12 gates. Most of the walls, 
and some of the gates, were demolished in l66l, by order 
of Charles II., as a punishment for the disloyalty of the 
inhabitants, who had refused admission to his Royal Father, 
during the Civil War. Traces of the walls are still to be 
discovered ; many of the gates were not taken down, 
till within the last half century; and of three considerable 
remains are still to be seen. The Cross, built in the six- 
teenth century, once so famous, after suffering much from 
neglect, was finally removed in 17/1- 

Coventry was first incorporated in the reign of 
Edward III. ; and in that of Henry VI., by special royal 
favour, it was erected into a city, and, together with a 
district of four miles round, into a county of itself. Its 
present municipal government is vested in a mayor, ten 
aldermen, and twenty commoners. It sends two members 
to Parliament ; and the right of election is vested in free- 
men ; consisting of all those who have served a seven 
years' apprenticeship, within the city or suburbs. Its 
principal manufactures are ribbons, and watches. The 
former, which is its leading article, affords employment, 
it is said, to 1 6,000 persons in the city and the neighbour- 
hood. Of the latter, a newly established trade, more, it 
is supposed, are now made here than in the metropolis. 
It has a weekly market and four annual fairs. The popu- 
lation, according to the last returns, is 17,923. 

The general appearance of Coventry is that of an 
old, irregular, ill-built town ; with houses so crowded, as 



438 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 

1 1 . ■ ... ■ ,' '. ,Jg 

St. MichaeVs Church— The Spire. 

■ .1 i n II .III . ! | „. f 

almost to exclude the light and the air; and with streets so 
narrow, as scarcely to he passed with safety. Yet, to the 
lover of architectural antiquities, a walk through the city 
will he highly interesting- In every direction, he will see 
houses stampt with the venerable marks of age, exhibiting 
specimens of the different styles that prevailed in different 
past eras : and in the religious and other edifices, he will 
find objects to excite, in a high degree, and to gratify his 
curiosity. It must be added, that the modern houses are 
many of them spacious and handsome ; that the spirit of 
public improvement, long dead or dormant, in this city, has 
lately been aroused into life and action ; and that an im- 
portant and extensive plan of opening and widening some of 
the streets, has been already, in part, carried into execution* 

Of the religious edifices, which we now proceed to 
enumerate, the first mention is due, to the beautiful and 
magnificent church of St. Michael, originally founded 
about the year 1133. It is one of the finest Gothic struc- 
tures in the kingdom ; consisting of a nave and two side 
aisles, divided by lofty arches, with light clustered pil- 
lars. The upper range of windows is furnished with 
painted glass ; the lofty ceiling is of oak ribbed and 
carved ; and the look of the whole interior is airy and ele- 
gant, and yet impressively grand. But the glory of thii 
church is its Spire ; begun in 13/2, by two brothers, of the 
name of Botener, who annually expended ^100. upon it, 
till in 22 years, it was completed. From the summit of a 
square tower, richly adorned with saintly figures on the 
side, an octagon rises, supported by eight springing arches, 
and, from the pinnacles within its battlements, issues a 
spire, which, for its exact and exquisite symmetry, and its 
chaste and beautiful embellishments 3 is justly the wonder 



ADJACENT TOWNS, &g. 439 

Trinity Church — St- John's — Grey Friars* Steeple. 

I , 1 -. 1 1 . -- 1 j- 1 -a 

of its own, as well as the admiration of all succeeding 
ages. Sir Christopher Wren pronounced it a master- 
piece of the art. The height of the steeple, nearly the 
same as the length of the church, is 300 feet. That of 
Salisbury cathedral is above 400. 

Closely adjoining this grand edifice, is Trinity 
Church, which would be regarded, says Pennant, as a most 
beautiful structure, were it not eclipsed by the superior 
splendour of St. Michael. Both these churches are built 
of a brown stone, beautiful to the eye, but so friable as to 
suffer greatly from the effects of weather. Most of the or- 
naments are, in consequence, much defaced, and the more 
elaborate touches of the chisel are entirely gone. Trinity 
Church is built in the form of a cross^ with a tower in the 
center, from which rises a lofty well-proportioned spire. 
The interior has much of the air of gothic solemnity ; but 
the painter's colours and the gilders tinsel have somewhat 
injured the effect. The third church, St. John's, situated 
near the west entrance, is a good stone structure, with a 
low, heavy tower, in the center. Coventry is a Bishop's 
See, in conjunction with Litchfield. Anciently there was 
a cathedral, immediately contiguous to the two churches 
of St. Michael and Trinity, and an episcopal palace ; of 
both which some scanty remains are still to be seen. 
Near the Warwick Road was formerly the church and the 
monastery of the Grey Friars, an order of mendicants 
settled here in 1234. The latter has totally disappeared ; 
and a beautiful steeple, with a spire springing from an 
octagon, is all that remains of the former. There are 
eight places of worship in different parts of the city, be- 
longing to the various classes of dissenters. 



440 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 

St. Mary Hall — Various public buildings of Coventry. 

Near St. Michael's, is St. Mary Hall, a venerable 
pile, founded in the reign of Henry VI., originally be- 
longing to the Guild of St. Catherine. The front is oc- 
cupied by a noble window, of large size and just propor- 
tions. The entrance is through a porch, with an arched 
roofing. Beyond is a court-yard, in which is the door, 
leading to the large Kitchens, and a flight of stairs con- 
ducting to the great Hall. This is a grand room, 63 feet 
long and 30 wide. At the upper end is a splendid and 
spacious semicircular window, divided into nine com- 
partments, elegantly painted with figures of several of the 
English monarchs, and with armorial bearings and other 
ornaments. Underneath this window, is a hanging of fine 
ancient tapestry; in which are represented Henry VI. and 
Queen Margaret, with the lords and ladies of their court, 
several scripture characters, and a number of male and 
female saints. The side-walls are adorned with inscrip- 
tions and heraldic devices ; and hung round the room, are 
a considerable number of portraits of the English Sove- 
reigns, and the benefactors of the town — among whom, 
Sir Thomas White holds a distinguished place. — Besides 
this great Hall, under the same roof, are the Old and the 
New Council Chambers, and the Mayoress' Parlour, a fine 
Gothic apartment, spoiled by the introduction of modern 
windows and other modern decorations. Near the market- 
place, is the Mayors Parlour, a somewhat confined and 
by no means handsome room, where much of the public 
business of this great city is transacted. 

Among the other buildings, worthy of notice, are 
—the House of Industry, part of which, was formerly the 
ancient monastery of the White Friars — Bablahe Hospital, 
an old building, with strong marks of decay, into which 



ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 441 



Situation of Stoneleigh Abbey. 



forty-two alms men are received ; and in which, also, twenty 
four boys are clothed and educated — Grey Friar's 
Hospital, with a curious ancient front, richly embellished 
with carved wood, occupied by twelve women, and two 
aged men — and the Free School, with its new and hand- 
some front, in the pointed style, formerly the Hospital of 
St. John, the chapel of which is the present school. Here 
was educated the great antiquary, Sir William Dugbale. 
—The modern buildings are the County Hall, the Prison, 
and the Draper's Hall. This last has a stone front, sup- 
ported by Tuscan pilasters ; but the total absense of win- 
dows gives; to the whole exterior, a dismal appearance. 

Monthly %Mcp. 

This noble mansion, as already noticed, occupies a 
situation of profound, but delightful seclusion; amidst bold 
acclivities, that rise all around; and towering and spreading 
woods, which extend their solemn and majestic shades on 
every side. It stands on a sloping bank of the Avon, 
smoothed into a delicious lawn, expanding before the win- 
dows, and reaching down to the waters edge. At a pro- 
per distance, the river, Avhich is here of ample breadth, 
appears, winding its easy course, through fertile meadows ; 
and the ground a little beyond, ascending gradually, and 
ranging round in the form of a fine semicircular sweep, is 
richly robed in a waving mantle of wood, stretching before 
the eye, in full display, to a wide extent. Near the house, 
are the large gardens ; and at some distance from it, is the 
deer park, filled with numerous groups of that stately ani- 
mal, which are seen wandering through their spacious 
boundaries, with almost the happy freedom of a state of 
nature. Encircling the nearer grounds, is a tract of rich 
and beautiful country, adorned with the ;. wood 

3 K 



442 ADJACENT TOWNS, &c, 



History of Stoneleigh Abbey. 

scenery, especially that of venerable oaks, the luxuriant 
growth of ages, extending to a vast distance, and forming 
part of the immense domains attached to this princely 
abode. These are said to comprise, in the whole, here 
and elsewhere, upwards of twenty-five thousand acres. 

Stoneleigh Abbey was founded in 1 154, as a mo- 
nastery for the reception of a fraternity of Cistertian 
monks ; # who removed from Radford, Staffordshire, and 
subsequently from Cry-field, near Kenilworth, to this place. 
At the Dissolution, it was granted to Charles Brandon, 
JJuke of Suffolk, and by his heirs, in the reign of Queen 
Elizabeth, was sold to Sir Thomas Leigh, Lord Mayor 
of London; whose grandson, in the reign of Charles I. 
for his faithful adherence to that unfortunate monarch, was 
created a Peer of the Realm, by the title of Baron Leigh, 
of Stoneleigh, On the decease, without issue, of Edward, 
Lord Leigh, the fifth in descent from him, the estate pas- 
sed into the possession of his only sister, the late Hon. 
Mrs. Leigh. This excellent lady, lived to the advanced 
age of 70, in the unremitted exercise of generous and 
charitable dispositions, as enlarged as the ample means 
which an immense fortune afforded : and thus, by the last 
of its illustrious line, was well supported that virtuous 
fame, which has ever given to this truly noble family its 
proudest distinction, in all past times .J She died July 2, 
I806, when the estate passed into the possession of the 
Rev. Thomas Leigh, of Addlestrop, Gloucestershire: on 



* So named from the place of their first establishment, which was at Cisieaax, near 
Chtdcns, in France, 

\ " It may, without suspicion of flattety, be said, that the virtues of this noble Family, 
their piety, probity, and charity, have constantly accompanied the title." Kifpis' Biogv, 
Brit. 



ADJACENT TOWNS, &c. 443 

Present state of Stoneleigh Abbey \ 

whose decease, it descended to his nephew, J. H. Leigh, 
Esa, M. P. for Bedwin, the present possessor. 

Of the original abbey, little now remains, excepting 
the groined arches, below the present building, which still 
make excellent cellars ; and the venerable gate-house, 
which, according to Dugdale, was built by Robert de 
Hockele, the sixteenth abbot, who died in 13 49. By 
him, the large escutcheon of stone, still to be seen in the 
front, was placed, in memory of King Henry II., as the 
founder of the Abbey. A very displeasing report, some 
time ago prevailed, that this interesting fragment of early 
antiquity, to make way for some modern improvements, 
was shortly to be removed ! But, at present, we are happy 
to say, the venerable Gate- House, stands untouched ! and 
we have reason to hope, either that the report is unfounded, 
or that the first intention has given place to another, more 
accordant to the ardent wish of every lover of antiquarian 
remains ! 

Of the vast pile, which now forms Stoneleigh 
Abbey, the more ancient part was erected by Sir Tho- 
mas Leigh, in the reign of Elizabeth. In this, are 
numerous apartments, chiefly occupied as chambers 
and domestic offices. The modern part is a large 
and lofty erection ; and contains within it several 
handsome apartments. The Entrance Hall is a room 
of ample dimensions and noble proportions; support- 
ed by Corinthian pillars, in °, range of four on each 
side ; and adorned with representations of the Labours of 
Hercules, in alto-relievo. The Dining Parlour and the 
Breakfast Room, on the right, and the two Drawing 
Booms, on the left, though not very large, are handsome 

3K 2 



444 ADJACENT TOWNS, &e. 

■ ""■»""■»— ■ ■ " ■ ■ '"■ " ■ ■'— — « ■ M P. ■ .H ill . i ll | * 

Chapel of Stoneleigh Abbey. 

apartments, splendidly furnished, and finely decorated with 
some admirable paintings. There is, at present, neither 
a Library Room, nor Library. The Chapel is spacious 
and lofty, profusely ornamented in plaster work ; but the 
whole appearance is too light and airy to suit with the 
awful solemnity, proper to a place of devotion. The altar- 
piece is supported by two pillars of white marble, and 
adorned with a fine painting ; of which the subject is 
The Descent from the Cross. 




APPENDIXES. 



I 



2 



APPENDIX, NO. I. 



Extract from Domesday -Book of all that relates to Warwick, 

"In the Borough of Warwick, the King has in his demesne, 113 
houses; and the King's Barons have 112; from all which the King receives 
Danegeld.— The Bishop of Worcester has 9 dwellings. — The Bishop of Chester, 
7. — The Abbot of Coventry, 36 ; and 4 are destroyed to enlarge the Castle. — 
The Bishop of Constance, has 1 house. — The Earl of Melleux, 12 dwellings.— 
Earl Aubery, has 4, belonging to land which he holds. — Hugh de Grentemaisni!, 
4; and the Monks of Pillerton hold 1 of him. — Henry de Ferrers lias 2. — Robert 
de Stratford, 6. — Roger delvery, 2. — Richard, the Forester, 1. — Ralph deLimesi, 
9.— The Abbot of Malmsbury, 1.— William Beunvasleth, 1.— -William Fitz-Cor- 
bucion, 2.— Geoffery de Mandeville, 1. — Geoffery de Wirce, 1. — Nicoldus, the 
Cross-bowman, 1. — Stephen, 1. — Turchil, 4. — Harold, 2.-— Osbern Fitz-Richard, 
1.— Christina, 1. — Luith, a Nun, 2.— These dwellings belong to the Lands 
which the Barons hold, without the Borough, and are there valued. Besides 
these above named dwellings, there are in this Borough, 19 Burgesses, who 
have 19 dwellings, with sac and soc 9 and all customs, as they had in the time of. 
King Edward the Confessor. 

'« In the time of King Edward, the Sheriffalty of Warwick, with the 
Borowgh and Royal Manors, rendered 65 pounds, and 36 sextars of honey, or 
24 pounds, eight shillings, instead of honey, (pro omnibus qua ad mel pertine- 
hunt.) Now with the form of the Royal Manors, and pleas of the County, it 
pays per annum, 145 pounds by weight ; 23 pounds for the custom of dogs, 20 
shillings for a sumpter horse, 10 pounds for a hawk, and 100 shillings for 
Queen-gold.— Besides this, it renders 24 sextars of honey, of the larger measure, 
and from the borough 6 sextars of honey, at the sextar for 15 pence. Of these 
the Earl'of Mellent has 6 sextars and 5 shillings. 

" It was the custom of Warwick, that, when the King went on an 

•expedition by land, 10 Burgesses of Warwick went in lieu of all. He who did 

not go when summoned, paid the King one hundred shillings. And if the King 

went by sea against his enemies, 4 mariners (batsweins— boatswains) or 4 

pounds in pence were ssnt to him." 



APPENDIX, NO. II. 



Abstract of the Borough Charter, granted by William and 
Mary, in 1697- 

" By this Charter 25 of the inhabitants of Warwick, are constituted a 
bod}' Corporate, by the name of Mayor, Aldermen, and Burgesses, in perpetuo. 
Their former privileges are confirmed. They are to have a common seal ; which 
they may change, at their pleasure. The Mayor is to be chosen out of the 
Aldermen, who are to be thirteen in numher; and to continue in office for life; 
unless they shall be, for just cause, removed. Twelve other of the more honest 
* and discreet men of the Borough are to be selected, and called Assistant Bur- 
gesses; who are, also, to hold their stations for life, unless for just cause re- 
moved. A Recorder is likewise appointed, whose office is tor life ; to be exer- 
cised either personally, or by a Deputy ; and another person, learned in the 
laws of England, called the Common Clerk, who is to be chosen by the Recor- 
der, and is removable by him at his pleasure. The New Mayor is to be chosen 
by the Mayor for the time being, and 26 of the Aldermen and Burgesses col- 
lectively, or a majority of them, on Michaelmas-day; except it fall on a Sunday, 
and then on the following day, between the hours of nine and twelve in the 
forenoon. The meeting for this purpose is to be assembled by the existing 
Mayor; or, in his default, by a majority of the Aldermen, in the Shire Hall, or 
in any other convenient place. At this meeting the Mayor and Aldermen, or a 
majority of them, or in the absence of the Mayor, then, a majority of the 
Aldermen, shall name two of the Aldermen, neither of whom have served the 
office of Mayor, within two years, as candidates for it. Of these two, one shall 
be chosen by a majority of all the Burgesses present, together with the Mayor 
and Aldermen; and shall take the oath, and enter on his office on All Saints* 
Day. If he die before the year is expired, or be put out of office, either for 
ill-behaviour, or for not residing in the Borough ; or if it happen that any 
Aldsrman refuse the office when chosen, another shall be appointed within 
eight days, in the same manner as before. Any of the Aldermen are also re- 
movable by the Mayor, and a majority of the other Aldermen, for ill-behaviour, 
and for not residing in the Borough. When the number is rendered incomplete 
by death, or by removal, it must be filled up within eight days, by a new election, 
at a meeting of the Aldermen, to be summoned by the Mayor. No Burgess, 
however, shall be eligible to this office who has not resided three years in the 
town. The Assistant Burgesses are removable in like manner, by the Mayor 
and Aldermen, and are chosen by them only. Upon the death of the Recorder, 
the Mayor and majority of the Aldermen are to choose a fresh one, who may 
appoint a Deputy and Common Clerk; who also may appoint a Deputy himself, 



removable at pleasure. There are, also, appointed three servants, or officers of 
the Corporation, called the Sergeant of the Mace, the Yeoman of the Borough, 
and the Beadle of the Borough. These officers are to be chosen by the Mayor 
and a majority of the Aldermen, and are removable at pleasure. The duties of 
thtse officers are to be attendant upon the Mayor, Recorder, and Deputy 
Recorder, Justices of the Peace, and the Courts of the Borough ; and to exe- 
cute the mandates, precepts, and processes of the said Mayor, &c. ; to make 
summonses, distresses, attachments, arrets, corrections, imprisonments, and 
proclamations within the Borough, as directed by the Mayor, Recorder, or 
Deputy Recorder, Justices of the Peace, &c. The Serjeant of Mace, or in his 
absence, the Yeoman, shall also carry before the Major, in all places within 
the Borough, a silver or gold mace, engraved and adorned with the King's 
Anns. Jf an Alderman when chosen to be Mayor, shall refuse, without reason- 
able excuse to serve the office, he shall be fined by a majority of the Aldermen, 
a sum not exceeding j£2Q. A Burgess refusing to hold the office of Alderman, 
when elected shall forfeit a sum not exceeding j^IO; and an Assistant Burgess 
in the same case <^?5. which sums are to be appropriated to the use of the : 
Mayor, Aldermen, and Burgesses. The Mayor, Aldermen, and Burgesses are 
lo constitute the common council for the management of the affairs of the 
Borough, and they shall have power and authority to make good and wholesome 
laws for the Government of the said Borough, and to assess and impose reason- 
able fines and penalties upon offenders. The Mayor, Recorder, and three 
senior Aldermen, shall be Justices of Peace to try all offences, within the pre- 
cincts of the Borough ; except such as affect the life of the offenders. A Court 
of Pleas of Record is appointed to be held before the Mayor or his Deputy, 
Recorder, Deputy Recorder, Common Clerk, or his Deputy, on Wednesday in 
every week, except Easter and Whitsunweek, and that on which the Feast of 
Nativity happens ; which Court is to have power and authority to hear and 
determine, by plaint levied, all manner of debts, accounts, covenants, contracts, 
trespasses, &c. provided the damages demanded in such actions do not exceed 
ihe sum of forty pounds." 



APPENDIX, NO. Ill- 



Dtdness of Warwick. 
*' The uncommon dulness of this town and the air of melancholy 
which prevails in it are almost proverbial." 

Journey into South Wales, page 317. 

" Where Avon wider flows and gathers fame, 
A town there stands, and Warwick is its name, 
For useful arts, entitled, once, to share 
The Mercian dame Eifreda's guardian care. 



Nor less for feats of chivalry renown'd, 

When her own Guy was, with her laurels, crown'd. 

Now indolence subjects the drowsy place ; 

And binds, in silken bonds, her feeble race. 

No busy artisans their fellows greet, 

No loaded carriages obstruct the street. 

Scarce here and there a sauntering band is seen, 

And pavements dread the turfs encroaching green." Jagc, 

" On Warwick town, and cascle fair, 
I've feasted full my wond'ring eyes ; 
Where, things abound, antique and rare; 
To strike the stranger with surprize ! 

" But if, again, 1 ere appear, 
On this unsocial, lifeless spot, 
May I be spitted on Guy's spear ! 
Or boiled in his porridge pot ! Ascribed to Garrtck. 



APPENDIX, NO. IV. 



Right of Common, 

The following is a Copy of a Roll, in the possession of the Chamberlains of 
Warwick^ relative to an Inquisition made by order of the Mayor, Alder- 
men, and Commoners, tJie 20 Ih May, 1755. 

" Whereas upon an Inquisition or Inspection made and taken the 16th 
day of June, in the year of our Lord, One Thousand Six Hundred and Ninety- 
eight, by the several persons chosen by the inhabitants out of the several wards 
in the parish of St. Mary, in the Borough of Warwick, to inspect and make re- 
port, of the ancient Rights and Privileges belonging to the Commons given 
anciently to the said parish of St. Mary, upon such their Inquisition, they found 
that no new-erected tenement had any Right of Common, except, such tene- 
ment stood upon such ground, where an ancient tenement formerly stood that 
had Ri^ht of Common. And, that such Right of Common had been used and 
enjoyed only by such Parishioners who then held and occupied such ancient 
tenements, in the said parish of St. Mary, which were then in the several 
tenures of the persons mentioned in the said Inquisition or Inspection, to which 
they subscribed their names. 

" And whereas it was thought proper on the Twentieth day of May, 
One Thousand Seven Hundred and Fifty-five, at a Meeting at the Market-hall, 
by the Mayor, Aldermen, and Inhabitants, who have now R'ght of Common in 



6 



the said parish of St. Mary, for the said ancient tenements, that several ancient 
People out of each ward, who are well acquainted with the said Common, should 
inspect and peruse the said Inquisition or Inspection, and make report in whose 
hands the said ancient tenements now are, and who are the present owners 
thereof. 

And in pursuance of the power and authority to us so given, by the 
Mayor, Aldermen, and Commoners of the said parish of St. Mary, whose hands 
are hereunto subscribed, being ancient inhabitants of the said parish of St. 
Mary, and well acquainted with the said Commons and the ancient tenements, 
which have a Right to the same, we do find as follows, viz. 

That the Tenements in the several Wards, in the Tenure of several 
Persons hereinafter mentioned, have Right of Common for two Mouths, viz. for 
one Horse and one Cow, or two Cows and no Horse. 

[Here follow the names of all those Persons, who by this Inquisition, were found 
entitled to a Right of Common, which occupy eight skins of parchment i] 

And we find upon inquiry, these ancient Customs used by the Com- 
moners, time out of mind, which are as follows : — 

Imprimis, that no person that hath right to put on Cattle upon the 
said Common, may set or let his Commons to any other person or persons, upon 
penalty (if justly proved) to forfeit to the Chamberlains Thirteen Shillings and 
Four-pence, to be imployed for the benefit of the Commons. 

Item, that no person put on the said Commons, any mangey or evil 
diseased Horse, Cow, or Heifer, upon penalty of paying Six Shillings and Eight- 
pence, and such Cattle are to be impounded by the Chamberlains or Herd, so 
soon as they know of it. 

Item, that no person do keep any Mare or Mares, or Colts not backed 
or unshod, upon the Common. 

Item, that no person shall make use of his Commons belonging to any 
other House, than what he lives in himself. 

Item, that no Commoner having two Houses that have Right of Com- 
mons in his own hands, shall make use of more than the Commons belonging to 
that House he then dwells in. 

Item, that if any person shall have two Houses, that have Right of 
Common belonging to them both, and shall lay them into one Dwelling-house, 
shall make use of, nor have any more Commons than what do properly belong 
to one House, until the same shall be parted again and occupied by two several 
Tenants or Occupiers. 

Item, that no person do make any new way over any part of the Com- 
mon, to carry muck or hay, but that the Chamberlains upon notice thereof do 
impound their Cattle for such trespass, and make them sufficiently pay for the 
same, or present them at the next Sessions. 

Item, that it hath been the usual Custom of the Chamberlains, to 
drive all the Horses going upon the Commons, twice in every year, and to 



mark the said Horses, and each Commoner is to pay them Four-pence the first 
time, and Two-pence tlie second time for sue!) marking. 

Item, it hath been a Custom, that the Chamberlains shall keep a 
Book, to enter all Horses, Cows, and Heifers, that shall be put upon the Com- 
mons* and the respective Owners of such Cattle, shall give notice to the Cham- 
berlains of their putting on such Cattle, within six days at the farthest, next 
after such putting on, and describe their Marks that they may be entered in 
their Book, upon pain of forfeiting Six Shillings and Eight-pence to the Cham- 
berlains : And any person that shall neglect to enter such Cattle into their 
Eook, the Chamberlains may impound the said Cattle till entered, and then the 
Owners shall pay unto them for such neglect, One Shilling. 

Item, that the Chamberlains do yearly lay out in the repairs of the 
Gates, Mounds, Ditches, and Fences belonging to the Common, all such 
money they shall receive, by the marking of Horses or other penalties and for- 
feiture , and if any money shall remain in their hands, shall transmit it over 
to the next succeeding Chamberlains, and shall yearly at Michaelmas Sessions 
next ensuing the end of their year, give and yield up a fair and just account in 
writing, tO the Mayor and Justices of the Peace of this Borough, of all Receipts 
and Disbursements they have been at, in their said Orhce. 

In witness whereof we have hereunto set our hands containing eight 
rolls of Parchment, the Seventeenth clay of June, in the year of our Lord, One 
Thousand, Seven Hundred and Fiftv-hve. 



High-Street Ward. 

THOMAS ROWE, 
JONATHAN WILSON, 
WILLIAM NASON. 

Castle-Street JVard. 

FRANCIS WIGLEY, 
THOAIAS STONLEY, 
WILLIAM ROE. 

Saltisford JVard. 
THOMAS HAD LEY, 
JOHN ROGERS, 
JERYTS TROUGHTON. 



Jury-Street Ward 
JAMES LANE, 
JOSEPH COTTEN, 
WILLIAM HANDS. 

Market-Placb Ward. 
JOB CllOOK, 
JOHN LANGTON, 
HUGH TAYLOR. 
GEORGE HOPKINSON, 

West-Street Ward. 
WILLIAM COLLINS. 
JOSEPH WATSON, Senior. 
WILLIAM FAIRFAX, 



THOMAS BANNER,") 

JOHN ROADS,. yOiamberlains for the Year, 1755. 

JOHN SABIN, ) 



B 2 



APPENDIX, NO. V. 



Various Charities, 



1. Tor providing food and clothing for the Poor, £%<2 was left by J. 
Smith, of Sherborne. — £6 4s. 6d. by Mr. T. Ay'esworth, of Wellesbourne. — 
£2 10s. by Mr. R, Grimes, Alderman, of Warwick.— £l 10s. by Mr. R. Ver- 
nor, citizen, of London. — £5 4s. by Mr. J. Blissett, Alderman, of Warwick.— 
^5 5s. by Mr. M. Busby, of Warwick.— £5 by Mr. N. Rothwell, Alderman, 
of Warwick. — J\2 by Mrs. Turville. — £2 13s. by Henry Fumes, Gent. — 
£2 12s. by Mr. Ed. Makepeace. 

2. For putting out poor children apprentices, £\0 15s. was left by Sir 
Thomas Puckering. — £5 by Mr. R. Heath, Alderman, of Warwick. — £5 by 
the Hon. J. Smith, Chief Baron of the Exchequer of Scotland. — ^9 10s by 

Mr. J. Hadley, Alderman, of Warwick ^10 by Mr. G. Webb, mercer, of 

Warwick c =£l0 by Mr. R. Lane, Alderman, of Warwick.— £5 by Mr. M. 

Busby. 

3. For buying coals for the use of the poor, £15 was left in part by 
the late Earl of Warwick, and in part by the Right Hon. C. Greville. 

4. For six poor widows* £\C was left by Mrs. Hammond. — And the 
interest of ^200 to be paid to ten poor widows, by Mrs. C. Benton. 

5. For general purposes of Charity, at the discretion of trustees, £25. 
was left by Mr. J. Toolie, Alderman, of London.— ^3 8s. by Mr. D. Price, of 
the Priory. — £4< by Mr. R. Edgwortb, of Overton, Northamptonshire. — o£25 
by Mr. To Whatteley.— ^15 by Sir T. Delves, of Doddington, Cheshire.— 
£15 by Mrs. Tomkys.— j£ll 13s. 4c?. by Mrs. Johnson, of Warwick,— A"d 
£16 by Henry Archer, Esq. Member of the Borough. 



APPENDIX, NO. VI. 



Figures on the Monument of Thomas Beauchamp. 

East Side of the Tomb. — 1. A woman in nebule head-dress, waistcoat, long 
close embroidered sleeve?, and petticoat. — 2. An old man with pointed beard, 
cap, mantle, right arm half out of it. — S. A woman with reticulated heod-dress 
of a different pattern, long sleeves below wrists, and others hanging down, hands 
folded.— 4. A man in cap, hair and beard, close coat, with standing cape, and 
hose all of one piece, belt and mantle. — 5. A woman with a zigzag head-dress, 
mantle fastened by a rose, and close gown, hands across. — 6. A man in a cap 



and hood and close coat, purse or gloves in right hand and anelace at belt.— 7. 
A woman in reticulated head-dress, mantle different from the former, a close 
gown, hands folded and joined. 

South Side. — 1. A man in close cap and hood, and close coat; in 
right hand gloves or a purse; left on his breast ; from his girdle hangs an ane- 
lace. Under him the arms of Beauchamp. — 2. A woman in a mantle and close 
gown and reticulated head-dress. Under her in a bordure nebule a cross. Fitz 
Jefferi/, the earl's grandmother.— 3. A man in a cap, beard, and whiskers, close 
coat and anela.ee. Under him Beauchamp impaling Mortimer. The earl's mo- 
ther. — 4. A woman in reticulated head-dress, close gown and waistcoat over it. 
Under her Beauchamp impaling Ferrars. His eldest son Guv, who married 
Philippa daughter of Henry lord Ferrars of Groby. — 5. An old man bearded, in 
a close buttoned coat, mantle, and hood. Under him Az. a cinquefoil, Or. Bar- 
dolf, husband of Agnes, his 7th daughter, impaling Beauchamp. — 6. A woman in 
reticulated head-dress, a close gown, and in her left hand a rosary. Under her 
Cheque O. and Az. a fess G. Roger Clifford, who married his daughter Maud. — 
7. A man with a pointed beard, in a cap and gown, right hand on breast, Un- 
der him O. a chevron Gu. Hugh earl of Stafford, husband of Philippa his second 
daughter. — 8. A woman in reticulated head-dress, mantle, waistcoat and petti- 
coat. Under her Barre O. and Az. John lord Beauchamp of Hache, husband of 
Alice third daughter. — 9. A man with a pointed beard, cap, mantle, armour, and 
tword, hose and pointed shoes of one piece. Under him O. three piles G. Ralph 
lord Basset of Drayton, husband of Joan his fourth daughtor.— 10. A woman 
in a mantle and cap, or reticulated head-dress, defaced, holding an open book 
in her right hand. Under her S. a cross engrailed O. William Vfford earl of 
Suffolk, husband of Isabel his fifth daughter. —11. An old man in a mantle, with 
pointed beard and shoes. 

The Head or West End. — 1. A woman in the flowered head-dress, 
waistcoat, and petticoat; in her left hand a rosary, right on her breast. — 2. A 
man in a cap, pointed beard and mantle, right hand on his breast. — 3. A woman 
in flowered head-dress, mantle, and close gown, hands before her. — 4. A beard- 
ed old man, in cap and gown, a large rose on his breast. — 5. A woman in reti- 
culated head-dress, mantle, waistcoat, and petticoat, long close embroidered 
sleeves, right hand on breast. — 6. An old man in peaked beard and cap, close 
coat and mantle. — 7. A woman in ziggag head-dress, mantle, and embroidered 
gown, with long close sleeves. 

NoriTii Side. — 1. An old man, with pointed beard, an hood and mantle, 
his right arm appearing at a slit fastened by a stud. — 2. A woman in a plain 
patterned head-dress, the hair appearing at the ends, a mantle, waistcoat, and 
petticoat. — 3. A man in a bonnet, mantle, close coat and belt, breeches, hose, 
and shoes of one piece. — 4. A woman in head-dress nebule pattern, mantle, and 
hands folded. — 5. An old man, with parted beard, in hood, right hand pulling 
down the cape of his mantle. — 6. A woman in curled hair, a kind of half mantle 
over her right shoulder, and her habit different from the rest. — 7. An old man 
in a cap and parted beard, his mantle closed by a rose on his breast — 3. A 



10 



woman in the nebule head-dress and mantle, holding an open book in both 
hands.— 9. An old man in cap and mantle, right arm out on his waist. —10. A 
woman in flowered head-dress, and mantle, in the sleeve of which her left hand 
is concealed ; waistcoat and petticoat. — 11. An old man in cap, pointed beard, 
mantle, right hand on breast. 



APPENDIX, NO. VII. 



Figures in the Painted Glass of the East Window, 

North Side. — In the outer moulding beginning from the bottom, a female 
saint crowned, with a sword in her right hand, and an open hook in her left, — - 
Another holding in her right hand a tower with two stories. — -Angels hold A. 
two chevrons G. and Beauchamp — An angel stands with a censer. — Arms in a 
garter under a coronet, Beauchamp quartering cheque a chevron Erm. — An an- 
gel standing holds in his left hand a globe.— St. George's Cross in a gaiter under 
a coronet. — In the centre the Deity in glory holds a globe. 

South Side. — In a garter under a coronet old France and England— 
An angel standing with a star on his breast.— In a garter under a coronet cheque 
the chevron Erm. — An angel standing habited in a green ""vest, Beauchamp quar- 
tering cheque the chevron Erm. impaling G. a chevron Erm. between eight 
crosses patec A. — An angel holding a maunch. — A female saint holding in her 
left hand an alabaster box, her right hand elevated. — Another female scvint ele- 
vating her hands in prayer, at her feet a dragon. 

North Sjde. — In the inner mouldings beginning as before: an angel 
holding in his left hand a censer. — Another feathered, holding in his right hand 
a sword erect. — Another holding in his right hand a dart, the point downwards. 
Another having on his breast G. a crosse flore A. — Another having on his breast 
■an open book. — Another standing in armour, as St. George, a cross in his left 
hand. — Another feathered on one side the center. — Descending South. Angei 
feathered, on the other side the centre. — Another holding a launce across his 
breast in his left hand. — Another feathered holding as it seems an harp. — Ano- 
ther holding G. a saltire A. perhaps Neville. — An angel standing in drapery, 
holding in his left hand a palm branch. — Another similar seems to hold in his 
left hand a pilgrim's staff. — Another holds a crosier. 

TJp the two Middle Bars are eight Angels in pairs- — In the First Bar 
— The first two with feathered legs, robes, the one laying the hand on breast, the 
other holding a box. — The second two, also featheicd, holding, one a spear and 
sword, and the other a sceptre. — The third two, with four wings, hands spread. — 
The fourth two, the same.— In the Second Bar — Angels in pair, correspond- 
ing exactly with ihose in the first bar* except that one has a demon under him. 



11 



The Center Compartment of this great window is divided into three 
days, of two stories. — In the lower centre pay is the portrait of the founder, 
Earl Richard, kneeling, his hands raised to a desk, with an open book ; dressed 
in armour, with spurs, wearing his herald's coat, on which are the arms of 
Beauchamp, quartering the old Earls of Warwick. Before him in a whole-length 
of Christ, crowned with thorns; Behind him Mater dolorosa, kneeling. Over 
Christ a veiled female saint ; her right hand down ; in her left a scroll, on which 
is written unde hoc w*** — Over the founder, a bearded man, in green, holding in 
his left hand a scroll, inscribed non aperitur, in his right hand a belt. On the 
other side, a female saint, with flowing hair. Over her is written hoc b***me. — The 
names of Thomas^ Isaias, Amos, appear interspersed : perhaps originally part 
of a series of prophetical names, to which texts, from their writings, might have 
been added, so frequent in old church windows. 

In the North Day are four figures. In the upper story an old man, 
in a slouched broad hat, a scroll in his right hand, his left elevated, and fur on 
his left shoulder. Another man in a hat, casting up his eyes to heaven ; his 
right hand expanded, his left on his breast. In the tipper story, an Archbishop 
mitred, holding a cross in his "left hand, and blessing with his right. A man in 
armour, robed, a sceptre in his right hand, his left extended. 

In the south day. Lower story. A bearded saint, his hands elevat- 
ed, and spread. — A saint in a hat, extending his right hand, his left in a belt. — ■ 
Upper story, A bald saint, \vith a crozier, and open book. — A female saint 
crowned, in her left hand an open book, what is in her right hand uncertain. — 
Names and broken sentences are interspersed in this as well as the center day. 



APPENDIX, NO. VIII. 



Earl Richard's Tomb. 



At the IIcad. — A man in cropt hair, cloak with falling cape and long 
sleeves over a coat, whose left sleeve is adorned with loops, holding in lefc 
hand a book in a bag, his right on his breast — Henry Beauchamp, Duke of 
Warwick. — Arms: Quarterly, !• Beauchamp. — 2. O. 3 chevronels, G.— 3, 
Cheque, as before. — 4. Despenser. — A lady in the mitred head-dress and veil, 
mantle and gown girt round wilh a belt ending in a lozenge jewel, and holding 
in her hands a scroll. — Lady Cecil his wife. — Arms: Quarterly, 1. Beauchamp. 
— 2. O. 3 chevronels G. — 3. Cheque O. and Az. a chevron Erin. — 1. A. bend 
Sa. quartering G. a fret O. Vcspcnser. — Impaling quarterly, 1. 4. O. 3. mascles, 
Az. quartering O. a spread eagle, Az. Montague earl of Salisbury. — 2. 3. G. a 
saltire O. under a label of 3 points, cheque O. and Az. Neville earl of Warwick. 

fcot Tit Side. — 1. A man in cropt hair, habited as the first, holding in 
his left hand a scroll, in his right a mantle. Arms: the mascles and eagles 



12 



quartering the saltire and label. Richard Neville earl of Salisbury, afterwards 
of Warwick.— 2. A man cropt and habited as before, holding his mantle in his 
right hand, and in his left, which is under the mantle, a clasped book. Arms i 
In a border A. and Az. France and England. Edmund Beaufort duke of So- 
merset, who married Eleanor daughter of Richard BeauchamD earl of Warwick* 
3. A man as before j his hands concealed under his cloak. Arms: Quarterly* 
1. Beaufort. 2. 3. Az. a bend cottized O. between 6 lioncels rampant O. 4. 
O. a chevron G. Stafford. Humphrey Stafford, duke of Buckingham, who mar- 
ried Anne daughter to Ralph Neville, earl of Westmorland.— ^4, A man in a 
cloak, the hood over his head and face; his hands crossed downwards hold a 
elapsed book. Arms : Quarterly, 1. Az. in a border O. a lion rampant O. 2. G. in 
a border engrailed O. a lion rampant O. Talbot. — 3. O. two lions passant guard- 
ant G. — 4. O. a bend between six birds' heads G. John Talbot, earl of Shrewsbury, 
who married Margaret daughter of Richard Beauchamp earl of Warwick.— 5. An 
old man bearded, habited as before, in a cloak, the hood up over his eyes; his 
hands crossed holding a book in a bag. Arms : G, a saltire Az. under a label of 
three points cheque O. and Az. Neville earl of Salisbury. Richard Neville earl 
oi Salisbury married Anne daughter of Richard Beauchamp earl of Warwick, 

At the Feet : — 1. A man habited as before, his hair cropt, hh hands 
laid on each other as counting the beads of his rosary. Arms : G* a cross florfc 
O. quartering G. a saltire O. George Neville lord Latimer. -^-2. A lady in the 
mitred head-dress, veii and mantle : in iier crossed hands a rosary. Arms : the 
foregoing quarterings of Latimer ; impaling, Quarterly, 1. G. a fess O. between 
six mascles O. 2. 3. Cheque O. and Az. a chevron Erm. Old Earls of Ifar- 
zeick. 4. Beauchamp. Elizabeth daughter of Earl Richard. 

On the North Side: — 1. A lady in the same head-dress as the pre- 
ceding, mantle, kirtle fastened high round her waist with a studded belt, close 
long sleeves : her left hand supports her chin; her right holds a long rosary- 
Arms : Quarterly, 1. Beauchamp. 2. Cheque O. and Az. a chevron Erm. Old 
Earls of Warwick. 3. Neville. Impaling, Quarterly, 1. O. 3 mascles G. 2. 

0. a spread eagle G. 3. Per pale G. & O. 2 chevrons. 4. Bespenser. Alice f 
daughter and heir to Thomas Montague earl of Salisbury, wife of Richard 
Neville earl of Salisbury. — 2. A lady in the same head-dress and habit; the 
veil of the mitre drawn over it, holding in her left hand an open scroll, in her 
right her mantle. Arms: Quarterly, 1. Az. in a border O. a lion rampant O. 
Talbot. 2. G. in a border engrailed O. a lion rampant O. 3. O. two lions 
passant guardant G. 4. O. a bend between six birds' heads G. Impaling, 
Beauchamp, quartering the cheque and chevron. Eleanor, daughter of Richard 
earl of Warwick, married to Edmund Beaufort duke of Somerset. — 3. A lady 
habited in a mantle, the veil of her mitre over her eyes, her kirtle fastened in 
front by lacing; her hands crossed, und in her left a rosary. Arms : Quarterly, 

1. France and England. 2. 3. Az. a bend cottized G. between six lioncels 
rampant O. 4.0. a chevron G. Impaling G. a saltire O. Anne, daughter to 
Ralph Neville earl of Westmorland, married to Humphrey Stafford duke of 
Buckingham. —4. A lady in the same head-dress, the veil thrown back, and a 



13 



kind of frontlet appearing between her eyes: her hands clasp a book. Arms ; 
In a border O. and Az. Trance and England. Impaling, Beauchamp, quarter- 
in*- the cheque and chevron. Margaret, daughter of Richard earl of Warwick, 
married to John Talbot, earl of Shrewsbury. — 5. A lady in the mitre, the veil 
thrown back, mantle, gown girt high: in her joined pendent hands a rosary. 
Arms as the first on the South side. Anne daughter of Richard earl of War- 
wick, married to Richard Neville earl of Salisbury- The angels hold scrolls 
inscribed: — Sit Deo laus ct gloria, defunct is misericordia. 

The inscription in two lines let into the upper ledge of the tomb, 
which is of speckled grey marble, is as follows: — 

" Preieth devoutly for the Sowel whom God assoile of one of the moost 
worshipful j&nightes, in his Dayes of Monhode and Conning, Richard Beauchamp, 
late Eari of Warrewick, Lord Despenser of Bergevenny, and of mony other 
grete Lordships ; whos body resteth hereunder this tumbe in a ful feire vout 
of stone set on the bare rooch, the which visited with longe siknessin the Castel 
of Roan therinne deceased ful cristenly the last day of April the yer of our Lord 
God MCCCCXXX1X. He being at that time lieutenant gen'al and governer of 
the Roialme of Fraunce, and of the Duchie of Normandie by sufficient 
Autorire of oure Sovaigne Lord the King Harry the sixth, the which body with 
grete deliberac'on and ful worshipful Conduit by see and 'by lond was brought 
to Warrewick the iiii day of October the yer aboveseide and was lade with ful 
solemne exequies in a feir chest made of Stone in this Chirche, afore the west 
dore of this Chapel according to his last Will and Testament therein to reste 
till thys Chapel by him devised in his lief were made, Al the whuche Chapel 
founded on the rooch and alle the Members thereof, his Executors dede fully 
make and apparaille, by the auctorite of his seide wille and Testament, and there- 
after by the same auctorite they dide translate ful worshypfully the seide body 
into the vout abouesaide: honured be God therefore." 



APPENDIX, NO. IX. 



Ambrose Dudley's Monument. 

Ox the South Side of the tomb these coats of arms and inscriptions : — 
O. a lion rampant queue fourchee Vert. Dudley, with a crescent of difference, im- 
paling a chevron between three stags' heads. W/toruood. The sayd Lord Ambrose 
Duddeley married to his first wiefe Anne dowghter and coheir of William 
Whorwood Esqnier Atterney-Ger.cral to Kinge Henry the Eyghte. — 2. Dudley 
impaling a saltire in chief, 3 escallops. Taylboys. The said Lord Ambrose mar- 
ried "to his second wief Elizabeth dowghter of Sir Gilbert Taylboys Knight 
sister and sole heir of George Lord Taylboys. — 3. Dudley impaling liussel. 
The said Ambrose after lie was ErI ofWarwik maried to his third wife the Lady 
Ann eldest daughter to Francis Rusel Erie of BefjrdK't of the Garter. 

€ 



u 



On the North Stde: — i. "Dudley impaling Bramsfiot. John Budde- 
ley Esq. second sonne to John L* Duddeley and Knight of the Garter ruaried 
Elizabeth dowghter and heir of John Bramshot Esq. and had issue Edmond 
Duddeley. — 2. Dudley impaling Lisle. Edmund Duddeley Esq. one of the 
Prive Counsell to K. Henrie 7 married Elizab. sister and sole heir of John Grey 
Viscou't Lisle descended as heir of the eldest do and coheir of Ric. Beachamp 
E of Warr. and Elizab- his wief do' and heir of the L. Berkeley and heir of the 
L. Lisle and Ties and had issue Io. Duke of Northumb. — 3. Dudley impaling 
Guilford, John Duke of Northumberland Erie of Warr. Vicount Lisle and 
Knight of the Garter maried lane do' and heir ofS'r Edward Guildeford Knight 
and Eleanor his wief sister and coheir to Thomas L. Lawarre and had issue the 
said L. Ambrose. 

At the Feet. — A shield with 32 quarterings, under a coronet, sup- 
ported by a goat and a lion collared. Motto, Omne Tempus . • • * 

the following inscription is in capitals: — 
" Heare under this Tombe listh the Corps of the Lord Ambrose Dudde- 
ley, who after the deceases of his elder Brethren without Issue, was Sonne and 
Heir to John Duke of Northumberlande : to whom Quene Elizabeth in the 
Eirst Yeare of her Reigne gave the Mannour of Kibworth-Beauchamp, in the 
County of Leicester, to be held by the Service of beinge Pantler to the Kings 
and Queries of this Reamle, at their Coronations, which Office and Mannour his 
said Father, and other his Ancesters, Erles of Warwick, helde;— In the second 
Yeare of her Reigne, the said Quene gave him the Office of Mayster of the 
Ordinaunce ; — In the fowrth Yeare of her sayd Reigne, She created Hun Baron 
Lisle and Erie of Warwick ; — In the same Yeare she made Him her Lieutenant 
Generall in Normandy, and during the Tyme of his Service there, He was 
chosen Knight of the noble Order of the Garter; — In the Twelvth Yeare of her 
Reigne the said Erie and Edward Lord Clinton, Lord Admerall of England, 
were made Livetenantes Generall joinctely, and severally, of her Majesty's 
Army in the North Parts. — In the Thirteenth Yeare of her Reigne the said 
Quene bestowed on him the Office of Chief Butler of England; — and in the 
XVth Yeare of her Reigne he was sworn of her Prive Council : — who departinge 
this Lief without Issue, the 21st Day of February, 1589, at Bedford House 
near the City of London, from whence, as Himself desired, his Corps was con- 
vey'd and interr'd in this Place near his Brother Robert Erie of Leicester and 
others his noble Ancestors, which was accomplished by his last and weil-belov- 
ed Wief the Lady Anne Countess of Warwick, who in further testimony of her 
faithful Love towards Him, bestowed this Monume't as a Remembrance of him/' 



Inscription on Robert Dudley's Monument. 

Deo Viventium S. 
Spe certa resurgendi in Christo, hie situs est illustrissimus Robertus 
Dudleyus, Johannis, Ducis Northumbrian, Comitis Warwici, Vicecomitis Insults, 
&c. filius quintusj Comes Lecesuiae j Baro Denbighie, ordinis turn S. Georgii, 



15 



turn S. Michael is, Eques auratus ; Reginae Elizabeths [apud quam singulari 
gratia florebat] Ilippocomus, llegiae Aulce subinde Seneschtfllus ; a'b intimis Con- 
siiiis : Forestarum, Parcorum, Chacearuni, &c. citra Trentham summus Justi- 
ciarius: Exercitils Anglici a dicta Regina Eliz: missi in Belgio, ab Anno 
JUDLXXXV. ad annum MDLXXXVII. locum tenens ct Capitaneus generaiis t 
Provinciarum Confederaiarum, ibidem Gubernator generaiis et prafectus ; Reg- 
nique Anglia? locum tenens contra Pbilippum II. Hispanum, numerosa Classc 
et Exercitu Angliam MDLXXXVIII. invadentem. 

Ak imam Deo servatori reddidit Anno salutis MDLXXXVIII. Die 

quarto Septembris. Optimo et charissimo marito, mcestissima uxor Leticia 
Francisci Knoiles ordinis S Georgii equitis aurati et Revise Thesaurai jfilia, 
^rooris et conjugalis fidei ergo, posuit. 



APPENDIX, NO. X. 



u The Cave of Despair" 
From the Fairy Queen of Spenser, Book I. Cant. IX« 

XXXIII. 

Ere long they come where that same wicked wight 
His dwelling has, low in an hollow cave, 
Far underneath a craggy cliff ypight, 
Darke, dolefull, dreary, like a greedy grave, 
That still for carrion carcases doth crave : 
On top whereof ay dwelt the ghastly owle. 
Shrieking his balcfull note, which ever drave 
Far from that haunt all other cheerful fowle; 
And all about it wandring ghosts did wayle and howle s 
XXXIV. 

And all about old stockes and stubs of trees, 
Whereon nor fruit nor leafe was ever seen, 
Did hang upon the ragged rocky knees; 
On which had many wretches hanged beenc, 
Whose ^carcases were scattred on the greene, 
And throwne about the cliffs. Arrived there, 
That bare-head knight, for dread and doleful! teene. 
Would faine have fled, ne durst approchen neare; 
But th' other forst him staye, and comforted in feare. 

XXXV. 

That darksome cave they enter, where they find 
That cursed man low sitting on the ground, 
c 2 



16 



Musing full sadly in his sullein mind : 

His griesly lockes long growen and unbound., 

Disordred hong about his shoulders round, 

And hid his face, through which his hollow eyne 

Lookt deadly dull, and stared as astround ; 

His raw-bone cheekes, through penurie and pine, 

Were shronke into his iawes, as he did never dine, 

XXXVI. 

His garment, nought but many ragged clouts, 

With thornes together pind and patched was. 

The which his naked sides he wrapt abouts : 

And him beside there lay upon the gras 

A dreary corse, whose life away did pas, 

All wallowed in his owe yet luke-warme blood, 

That from his wound yet welled fresh, alas ! 

In which a rusty knife fast fixed stood, 

And made an open passage for the gushing flood* 



APPENDIX, NO. XT, 



Inscription for Guy's Cliff Chapel. 

In hoc Loco, 

Quern Henricus Quintus inviserat, 

Et ad Cantariam a se fundandam destinaverat fl 

Richardus Beauchamp Comes De Warvvic, 

Regnante Henrico Sexto, 

Capellam posuit, et annuis redditibus locupletavit, 

Joannes Rous, 

Cum in Collegium Capellanorum Clivi Guidonici* 

Favente Edvardo Quarto, 

Co optatus esset, 

Chronicum suum de Regihus Anglian, 

Et alios, qui vel deperditi sunt, 

Velin Bibliothccis etiam nunc delitescunt, 

Libros ibidem conscripsit. 

Turrim de sua pecunia extruxit 

Samuel Greatheed, 

Anno Domini MDCCLXIV* 

Bertie Greatheed Samuelis Alius 

iEdicuiara ipsam refecit MDCCCIL 



17 



Inscription for the Statue of Guy at Guy's Cliff \ 

Ad Memoriam Nominis conservandam 
Guidonis Comitis Verovicani, 
Qui postquam Danos contra Patriam ipsius 

Arma ififerentcs devicerat, 

Satisque bellicae Glorine sibi comparaverat, 

In Cellam Iuiic Aediculae vicinam, 

Et a sancto Dubritio antea habitatam, 

Sua Spontc se recepit, 

Ut quo in Loco cum consenesceret 

Deo pie colendo se totum dedidisset, 

In eodem Ossa sua post Mortem conderentnr, 

Imaginera hancce 

Ricardus Beauchamp Comes Verovicanus 

Regnante Henrico sexto, 

E Rupe exsc'ulpendam euravit. 



APPENDIX, NO. XII. 



Inscription on Judge Willes' Monument* 

M.S. 

Edvardi Willes Arm. nuper de Newbold Comyn, 

in Comitatu Warwiccensi ; 

Per plures Annos Proprcetoris Civitatis Coventrie, 

Attornatus Generalis Ducatus Lancastrian 

Regi Servientis ad Legem, 

et demum Baronis Capitalis Curiae Scaccarii, 

Regique a privatis Consiliis, 

in Hibernia. 

Quamquidetn amplissimam Dignitatem, 

Auspicante Johanne Willes, 

(Id temporis Capiti. Justitiario Curia Comm. Placitorum) 

Consanguineo, Amico, Patrono unico, 

propria et praecellente in Legibus Peritia, 

Sagacitate, Fide, 

Obtinuit, Ornavit. 

Nee tamen Virtutibus illis lenioribus, 

(baud fortasse minoribus) 

Mansuetudine, Clementia, Benignitate, 



18 



parcius instructus est. 

Dum ad grandia Officii munia 

nimio Studio incubuit, 

Morbo (eheu !) gravi correptus est, 

Quo languens solum hoc (solum nempe natale) 

Pet i it. 

Nee Servi fidelis, & jam pise Valetudine deficientis 

Xmmemor esse potuit 

Rex Munificentissirmis, 

Pensione veio honorifica 

benignissime eura rerauneratus est: 

qua cum aliquantisper perfructus esset 

Morbo tandem confectus 

in sinum Servatoris sui 

placidissime aniraam efflavit 

Die 24 mensis Junii 

t Salutis 1768, 
Anno l _ . 

t iLtatis suss 66. 

Tres Liberi superstites 

Parrem optumum, pientissimura 

D.eflent, 

Conjux merito mcestissima 

Virtutibus, 

JMariti iodulgentis, peramantis^ 

Hoc marrnor conseeratum 

P. — . 



APPENDIX, NO. XIII. 



Inscriptions in Hatton Church, 

Catherine Jane Parr, youngest daughter of Samuel and Jane Parr, 
was born 'at Norwich, June 13th, 1782; died at East Teignmoutb, Devon, 
Nov. 22, 1805, and on December 9, was buried in this Chancel, where the re- 
mains of her afflicted parents will hereafter be deposited, at the request of a 
most beloved child, whom they hope to meet again, at the Resurrection of the 
Just to Life everlasting. 

Quae templo Catharina in hoc sepulta est, 
'f Prudens, casta, decens, severa, dulcis, 
' Discordantia quae solent putari 
" Morum Commoditate copulavit. 



19 

" Nam Viise comites bonce fuerdrit 
" Libertas gravis et Pudor facetus ' 
His est junctus Amor pitis suorum, 
Et Cura ex Animo Deum coleudi. 

Mrs Sarah Anne Wynne, the ingenious and beloved daughter ot 
Samuel and Jane Parr, was born at Stanmore, in Middlesex, December 31st, 
1772; died at Hatton, July 8th, 1310, and was interred on the 18th, in this 
Chancel, between the remains of her sister Catherine Jane Parr, and her third 
daughter Madalina Wynne, who departed this life, May 26th, 1810, aged two 
years, eight months, and nine days. 

Joanni Smithcmnn 

Qui vix. Ann. XV. Mens. VIII. Dieb. XVII. Uou III. 

Decessit VIII. Id. Mart. Anno sacro 

CIDj I3CC- LXXXXIIII. 

Joannes et Margareta Smitheman 

Parentes infeiicissimi, 

Unico et carissirao Fiiio 

H. M. 
Contra Votum posufciunt* 

P. 

Thomas Nelson, A. M. 

Vir Frugi, integenimus, 

Sacerdotalibus in hac Eccletia Muneribus 

In Exemplum* perfunctus, 

Et de Successoribus snis quorum Reditus 

Augendos curaverat, B. M. 

Decessit Prid. No'nu Octobr. 

Anno sacro MDCCLXX. 

Aetat. suae LXI. 

**' In exefftplurii." — This phrase is seldom or never to be found in the writings 
called classical ; but it is perfectly correct in inscriptions upon monuments, as we are told by 
the learned writer, by whom we were referred to P. G9, of the elegant inscriptions written 
by Stephen Anthony Morcellus, 1783. Morcellus not only defends and explains, but em- 
ploys the expression in his own inscription upon Cardinal Zeladas. — There is a pas3aage 
in Velleius Paterculus, which approaches the above-mentioned. 

Adolescens in omnium virtutom e&empla genilus. 

The lines in inverted commas are taken from Sidonius Apollinaris, Cpisto. If I ; '-- 
3. 1*15, Poet. Latin. 



20 

APPENDIX, NO. XIY. 



The History of Baddesley Clinton, 
By Henry Ferrers, Esq, in the time op Queen Elizabeth. 
This seate and soyle from Saxon Bade, a man of honest fame, 
Who held it in the Saxon's tyme, of Baddesley tooke the name. 
When Edward King the Confessour did weare the English Crown,, 

The same was then possest by * a man of som renowne ; 

And England being conquer'd in lot it did alyghte, 
To Giffry Wirce, of noble birth, an Andegavian Knighte : 
A member Hamlet all this whyle, of Hampton here at hand, 
With Hampton so to Mouibray went as all the Wirces land, 
Now Mouibray Lord of all doth parte these twoo and grants this one 
To Bisege, in that name it runs awhyle, and then is gon 
To Clinton as his heyre who leaves it to a younger son ; 
And in that time the name of Baddesley Clinton was begun. 
From them agayne, by wedding of their Heyre, at first came 
To Conisby, and after him to Foukes, who weds the same. 
From Foukes to Dudley by a sale, and so to Burdet past : 
To Mittey next by Mitley's will it came to Brome at last. 
Brome honours much the place, and after some descents of Bromes 
To Ferrers, for a Daughter's parte of theyr's in match it comes 
In this last name it lasteth still, and so long — longer shall ; 
As God shall please who is the Lord and King and God of all, 
* A Blank in the Original. 



APPENDIX, NO, X V. 



Entertainment of Queen Elizabeth at Kenilworth Castle. 

[Extracted from Dugdale, p. 172, Jones' Edit.] 

" Here, in July, An. 1575, (17 Eliz.) having compieated all things fer 
her reception, did he entertain the Queen, for the space of seventeen dayes* 
with excessive cost, and variety of delightfull shews, as may be seen at large in 
a special discourse thereof then printed, and entituled, The Princely Pleasures 
of Kenilworth Castle; having at her first entrance a floating island upon the 
pool, bright blazing with torches, upon which were clad in silks the Lady of the 
Lake, and two Nymphs waiting on her, who made a speech to the Q. in meeter 
of the antiquity and owners of that Castle^ which was closed with cornets, and 



21 



«ther loud rausick. Within the Base-court was there a very goodiy bridge set 
up of twenty foot wide, and seventy foot long, over which the Queen did pass, 
on each side whereof were posts erected, with presents upon them unto her, by 
the Gods, viz. a cage of wild fowl, by Silvanus ; sundry sorts of rare fruits, by 
Pomona; of corn, by Ceres ; of wine, by Bacchus ; of sea-fish, by Neptune ; of 
all habiliments of war, by Mars; and of musical instruments, by Phoebus. And 
for the several dayes of her stay, various and rare shews and sports were there 
exercised, viz. in the Chase a savage man, with satyrs: bear-baitings, fire-works, 
Italian tumblers, a country bride-ale, with running at the quintin, and morrice- 
dancing. And that there might be nothing wanting that these parts could af- 
ford, hither came the Coventrc-men,and acted the ancient play, long since used 
hi that city, called Hocks-Tuesday, setting forth the destruction of the Danes 
in King Ethelred's time; with which the Queen was so pleased, that she gave 
th n m r brace of bucks, and five marks in money to bear the charges of a feast. 
— Besides all this, he had upon the pool a triton riding on a mermaid 18 foot 
long: as also Arion on a dolphin, with rare music. And to honour this enter- 
tainment the more, there were then knighted here Sir Thomas Cecil, son and 
heir to the Lord Treasurer; Sir Henry Gobham, brother to the Lord Cobham; 
Sir Francis Stanhope, and Sir Tho. Tresham. The cost and expense whereof 
may be guest at by the quantity of beer than drunk, which amounted to 320 
hogsheads of the ordinary sort, as I have credibly heard." 



APPENDIX, NO. XVI. 



Survey of Kenihvorth Castle, 

" The Castle of Kenilworth, situate upon a rock. 

1. The circuit thereof within the walls containeth seven acres, upon 
which the walks are so spacious and fair that two or three persons together 
may walk upon most places thereof. 

2. The castle, with the four gate-houses, all built of tree-stone, 
hewen and cut; the walls, in many places, of fifteen and ten foot thickness, 
some more, some less, the least four foot in thickness square. 

3. The castle and four gate-houses, all covered with lead, whereby it is 
subject to no other decay than the glass, through the extremity of weather. 

4. The rooms of great state within the same, and such as are able to 
receive his Majestie, the Queen, and Prince at one time, built with as much 
uniformity and convenicncy as any houses of later time, and with such stately 
cellars, all earryed upon pillars, and architecture of free-stone, carved and 
wrought, as the like are not within this kingdom; and also all other houses 
for offices answerable. 

5. There lyeth about the same in chases and parks .£1200. per an. 
,€000. whereof are grounds for pleasure, the rest in meadow and pasture there- 
to adjoining, tenants and freeholders. 



22 



6. There joynetb upon this ground a park-like ground, called the 
King's Wood, with fifteen several coppices lying all together, containing seven 
hundred and eighty-nine acres within the same; which, in the E. of Leic. time, 
was stored with red deer; since which the deer strayed, but the ground in no 
sort blemished, having great store of timber, and other trees of much value 
upon the same. 

7. There runneth through the said grounds, by the walis of the castle, 
a fair pool, containing a hundred and eleven acres, well stored with fish and 
fowl, which at pleasure is to be let round about tne castle. 

8. In timber and woods upon this ground to the value (as hath been 
offered) of ^20,000. (having a convenient time to remove them) which to his 
Majestie in the survey are but valued at j£ll,722. which proportion, in a like 
measure, is held in all the rest upon the other values to his Majestie, 

9. The circuit of the castle, mannours, parks and chase, lying round to- 
gether, contain at least nineteen or twenty miles in a pleasant countrey ; the like, 
both for strength, state, and pleasure, nor being within the realm of England. 

10. These lands have been survey'd by Commissioners from the K. 
and the Lord Privy-Seal, with directions from his Lordship to find ail things 
under the true worth, and upon oath of Jurors, as well Freeholders as custo- 
mary Tenants; which course being held by them, are notwithstanding surveyed 
and returned at j£38,554. 15s. Od. Out of which, for Sir Rob. Dudley's con- 
tempt, there is to be deducted ^10,000. and for the Lady Dudley's joynture, 
which is without impeachment of wast, whereby she may fell all the woods, 
which by the survey amount unto i?l 1,722- — Extracted from Jjugdale. 



APPENDIX, NO. XYII. 



Inscriptions on the Monuments of the Shakespeare Family. 

Heere lyeth interred the bodye of Anne, wife of Mr. Wm. Shakespeare* 
who depted. this life the 6th day of Avgvst, 1623, being of the age of 67 yeares. 

Vbera, tu mater, tu lac vitamq. dedisti, 

Vce mihi ; pro tanto munere Saxa dabo ! 
Quam mallem, amoueat lapidem, bonus Angel' ore* 

Exeat ut Christi Corpus, imago tua 
Sed nil vota valent, venias cito Christe resurget, 

Clausa licit tumulo mater, et astra petet. 

Heere lyeth ye. body of John Hall, Gent, hee marr: Sv^anna, ye. 
daughter & coheire of W. Shakespeare,Gent. Hee dec. Nov. 25. A. 1635, aged 60. 
Hallius hie situs est medica celeberrimus arte, 

Expectans regni gaudia laeta Dei ; 
Dignus erat meritis qui Nestora vinceret annis, 
In terris omnes, sed rapit aequa dies ; 



23 



Ne tumulo, quid desit adest fidissima conjux, 
Et vitae comitem nunc quoq. mortis habet. 

Heere resteth ye. body of Thomas Nashe, Esq. be mar. Elizabeth, the 
*lavg. & heire of John Halle, Gent, he died Aprill 4. A. 1647, aged 53. 

Fata manent omnes, hunc non virtute carentern 

Vt neque divitiis, abstulit atra dies ; — 
Abstulit ; at referet lux vltima; siste viator, 

Si peritura paras, per male parta peris. 

Heere lyeth ye body of Svsanna, wife to John Hall, Gent, ye davghter 
©fWm. Shakespeare, Gent. She deceased ye 11th of Jvly, Ao. 1649, aged 66. 

Witty above her sexe, but that's not all. 
Wise to Salvation was good Mistris Hall, 
Something of Shakespere was in that, but this 
Wholly of him with whom she's now in blisse. 

Then, passenger, ha'st ne're a teare, 

To weepe with her that wept with all? 
That wept, yet set herselfe to chere 

Them up with comforts cordial!. 
Her Love shall live, her mercy spread, 
When thou hast ne're a teare to shed. 



APPENDIX, NO. XVIII. 



Inscription on the Monument of Lady Lucy. 

" Here entombed lyeth the Lady Joyce Lucy wife of Sir Thomas 
Lucy of Chcriecote, in the County of Warwick Knight, daughter and heir of 
Thomas Acton of Sutton in the County of Worcester Esquire, who departed out 
of this wretched world to her heavenly kingdome, the tenth day of February, in 
the year of our Lord God 1595. and of her age lx. and three: All the time of 
her life a true and faithful servant of her good God, never detected of any crime 
or vice : in religion most sound ; in love to her husband most faithful and true ; 
in friendship most constant; To what in trust was committed to her most secret; 
In wisdome excelling; in governing of her house and bringing up of youth in the 
feare cf God that did converse with her, most rare and singular. A great main- 
tainor of hospitality ; greatly esteemed of her betters; misiiked of none unlesse 
of the envious. When all is spoken that can be said, a woman so furnished and 
garnished with vertue as not to be bettered, and hardly to be equnUed by any. 
As she lived most vertuously, so she (\ycd most godly. Set down by him that 
best did know what hath been written to be true. 

" Tiiohas LucV.'' 
d2 



24 

ADDENDA ET CORRIGENDA. 



Page 98. — From an original deed, which the Writer has since seen, it 
appears, that the buildings were conveyed to the Earl of Leicester, by the 
Bailiff and Burgesses of Warwick. 

Page 98.— The gift of the Vicarage is in the Master conjointly with the 
Brethren. 

Page 176. — The two pictures of Salvator Rosa, erroneously described in 
this page, it appears, are sketches of the story of Polycrates, tyrant of Samos. 
In the first, the Prince is represented in the act of receiving a large fish which 
had swallowed, as it afterwards appeared, the very ring, thrown by himself into 
the sea, as a sacrifice to the Goddess of Fortune, whose favor he had long en- 
Joyed, and wished still to secure. From the moment the ring was thus restored, 
the Goddess forsook him; and accordingly in the second sketch he is represent- 
ed as dreadfully exposed on a tree, to be devoured by the birds, in pursuance 
of the order of Orcestes, Prince of Magnesia, into whose power he had fallen, 
cither by the chance of war, or through the arts of treachery. They are paint- 
ed in oil, on paper, and fixed on canvas. 



ERRATA. 

Page 45 — Line 1 1 — after transient read not: 

Page 70 — Line 14 — for toners read bowers. 

Page 98 — Line 12— after reign read of Elizabeth. 

Page 166 — Line 16 — for two feet read ten feet. 

Page 176 — Line 30— for Delft ware read Raphael's ware. 

Page 189— Line 15— for 1589 read 1598. 
Page 31/1 — Line I — for prussie read prussie. 

Page 329— Line 21 — instead of for read to. 

Page 355 — Line 15— for distinct read distant. 

Page 404 — Line 7 — for Essex read Leicester. 
In Page 303, Line 14, and in page 304, line 2, for chrystals read crystals. Iq 
Page 283, note, and in Page 314, Line 27, for chrystallization read crystallization. 
In Page 303, Line 26 j and Page 304, Line 2, for residium read residuum*. 



DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. 

1. General View of Warwick, to face the Title. 

2. Near View of Warwick Castle, to face page 166. 

3. Distant View of Warwick Castle, to face page 236. 

4. View of Leamington, to face page 334. 

5. Map of Ten Miles round Warwick, to face page 341. 

6. View of Kenilworth Castle, to face page 403. 

INDEX, 



INDEX. 



Abbott, Thomas, 281 ; 296 j 332. 

Aim* Houses, at Warwick, Oken's, 93 ; 
Iffeler's, 93; West Gate, 94; Fucker- 
ing's, 94 ; Saltsford, 95 ; Yardley, 95. 

Alva, (Duke of) notice of, 179, 

Alveston, 351. 

Aqueduct, near Emscote, 402. 

Archer Family, 374. 

Arms of the Warwick Family, 44. 

Artaud's Madonna and Child, 268 ; Por- 
trait of the Rev. J. H. Williams, 267. 

Assembly Rooms, Leamington, 337. 

B. 

Baekhuysin's Storm at sea, 205. 

Baddesley Clinton, 368. 

Bagot Family, 381; 3S6. 

Baggington Hall, 398. 

Bals^l Temple, 371 ; Church, 372. 

Banks at Warwick, 50. 

Baraset House, 351. 

Barbary, Duchess of Cleveland, notice of, 

195. 
Barford, 350; 386. 
Bas«ano's Annunciation, 267- 
Baths, & Pump Room at Leamington, 290. 
Bear and Ragged Staff, origin of 27. 
Beauchamps, Earls of Warwick, 29. 
Beaadesert, 377. 
Bertie, Earl of Lindsay, notice of, 185 ; 

260; 357. 
Eissett's Museum, 333 ; Picture Gallery, 
Elackdown Mill, 392. [327. 

Black Friar's, Warwick, 63. 
Blacklow Hill, 70; 314. 
Boleyn, Ann, 201 ; Catherine, 202. 
Bridewell, County, 150. 
Bridge, New, at Warwick, 81 ; Iron, 82. 
Bromley Family, S93. 
Buonaparte, notice of, 261. ; 
Buonarotti's, (Michael Angelo) Fruit, 217. 
Butts, Warwick, 56. 



Campedoglio's Fruit, 204. 
Canalclto's Views of Venice, 218, 267. 
Carracci's Pieta, 17 5. 
Castle-Sfreet, Warwick, 58. 
Carlisle (Counters,) notice of, 179. 
Catherine of Arragon, notice of. 175. 



Charities of Warwick ; Henry VIII. 86 ; 
White's, 87 ; Okeu's, 8S ; Griffin's, 88 ; 
Various, 89 ; Lying in, 92. 

Chapel, St. Mary's, Warwick , 1 1 7 ; built by 
R. Beauchamp, 1 i T ; interior, 118; mo- 
numents, 120; chantry, 127 ; co »fes*ion- 
al, 127 ; west room, 128; exterior, 128. 

Chapels, Dissenting; Presbyterian's, 135; 
Independent, 136; Baptist, 139; Wes- 
leian, 140; Quaker, 141. 

Charlecote House, 350 ; 432 ; Church, 351. 

Cheltenham Water, analysis of, 314. 

Chesford Bridge, 393. 

Chesterton, 380 

Church, St. Mary's, Warwick ; founded by 
Henry de New berg, 103; re-built by 
Thomas Beauchamp, 103; partly de- 
stroyed by fire, 104; re-built, 105; ex- 
terior appearance, 105 ; interior, 106 ; 
monuments, 107; choir, 110; lobby, 
114; chapter-house, 114 ; vestry-room, 
115. 

Church. St. Nicholas', Warwick, 129 ; in- 
terior, 131; monuments, 131. 

Claude's (Lorraine) sea piece, 375. 

Claverdon, 37. >- 

Clopton Family, 415. 

Compton Murdak, 353. 

Compton Wynyate, 355. 

Compton Family, 355. 

County Hall, Warwick, 79. 

Court-House, Warwick, 80. 

Coton End, 56. 

Coventry, 4S6 ; St. Michael's Church, 438; 
Trinity, 439 ; St. John's 439 ; St. Mary 
Hall, 440; Mayor's Parlour. 4-M* j 
Hou^e of Industry, 440 ; Bibjake Hos- 
pital, 440. 

Cromwell, Oliver, notice of. 207. 

Cuyp's view on the Scheldt, 209. 

D. 

Davilla, notice of, 189. 

De Witte's ii side of a Church, 200. 

Dewes Family, 360. 

Devereux, Earl of E-sex. notice of. 195. 

Douw's Lady Abbe^?, 200; Old Woman 

eating pottage, 203. 
Dudley, Earls of Warwick, 36, 124 ; 
Dudley, Robert, E. of Leicester, '.23,406. 
Dudley, Sir Robert, 307 • 1 13. 



INDEX. 



E. 

Eatington, Upper, 361 ; Lower Eating- 
ton Hall, 361. 

Edge Hill, prospect from, 356 ; battle of, 
22; 356. 

Edward, the Black Prince, notice of, 193. 

Elizabeth, Queen, notice of, 220. 

Emscote, 342. _ 

Excursion from Leamington to Warwick, 
341 • to Kenilwoith and Coventry, 343 ; 
to Stratford, 346 ; to Stratford by Char- 
lecote, 349 ; to Kineton and Edge Hill, 
g&g. .to Halford Bridge, 359; to 
KnJwle, 363; to Hockley, 373; to 
Henley, 375; to Gaydon, 379; to 
Barford, 384; to Southatu, 388; to 
Coventry by Stonleigh, 392. 
F. 

Ferrers Family, 368. 

Fisher, Thomas, 238. 

Fire, great at Warwick, 10, 53. 54, 58. 

Urine's '(A. de) inside of a Church, 218. 

Fulbroke Castle, 347. 
G. 

Gainsborough's portrait of Garriek, 418. 

Gaveston, Piers, 13, 30, 70, 344. 

Gaydon, 333. 

Goal, County, 142. 

Gondomar, notice of, 214. 

Goodrest, 73. 

Goyen's (Van) view of Dort, 969. [180. 

Graham, Marquis of Montrose, notice of. 

Greaiheed's, (Bertie) Incantation, 261 ; 

• Dryope,261 • Hannibal's Dream, 262 ; 
Murder of Becker, 262; St. Jerome, 
263 ; Shylock, 264 ; King Lear, 265; 
Diogenes, 265 ; Atahualpa, 266 ; Lady 
Macbeth, 266; Cave of Despair, 270; 
Three Family Portraits, 267 ; Portrait 
of Buonaparte, 264; of B. Greatheed, 
Esq. 265 ; of Duke of Ancaster, 265 ; 
of Richard Greatheed, Esq., 265; of 
Master G. Gray, 266; of himself, 270. 

Greenwood, Dr. 132 ; 329. 

Greviile, Earls of Warwick, 38. 

GreviUe, 1st Lord Brooke, SS ; 114; 173. 

Grove Park, 375. 

Guerchino's Hebe, 204. 

Guido's Circe, 181. 

Guy's Cliff, history, 250; inner court, 
258 ; mansion, 259 ; chapel, 271 ; plea- 
sure ground, 272. 

Guy, Earl of Warwick, 25, 251 ; statue 
of, 271 ; armour of, 232. 

Gutheline, founder of Warwick, I, 
H. 

Halford Bridge, 363. 

Harwood's House, 380. 



Hatton, 364 ; parsonage, S65 ; churcfc s 
365. 

Henley, 379. 

Henry IV. of France, 198. 

Henry VIII. notice of, 220. 

Henrietta Maria, notice ofj 191. 

High-street, Warwick, 52. 

Hockley House, 373. 

Holbein's portrait of William, Prince of 
Orange, 184 ; of Luther, 198 ; pf Anne 
Boleyn, 201 ; of Catherine Boleyn, 
202; of Henry VIII. 220; of Queen 
Elizabeth, 220; of Mary, Queen of 
Scots, 221 ; of Maximilian, 267. 

Hospital, St. John, Warwick, 55. 

Hospital, Leicester's, Warwick, 97. 

Howard, Earl of Arundel, notice of, 183. 
J. 

Jago, Rev. R. 236, note ; 378. 

Jansen's portrait of the Earl of Lindsay, 
185; of Shakespeare, 220. 

Jervais' inside of a church, 204. 

Ignatius Loyala, notice of, 186. 

Iron Foundry, Warwick, 76. 

ltchington, skirmish near, 21. 

K. 
Kalfs still life, 204. 
Kenilworth, 403; Castle, 404; Priory, 

412; Church, 413. 
Kerr, Dr. the first who recommended 

Leamington Water, 281, 282. 
Kettle, Rev. J. 136. 
Kineion,354. 
Knightley Family, 390, 
Knowle, 370. 

L. 
Lacey, John, anecdote of, 332. 
Lambe's, (Dr.) analysis of Leamingtoa 

Water, 232, 297. 
Land or, Dr. 386. 
Learn River, 342. 
Leamington, history, 276 ; early notice* 

of the Water, 279; Wells and Baths, 

285; situation described, 319; present 

state, 325. 
Leicester's Hospital, Warwick, 97. 
Lely's, (Sir Peter,) portraits of a Lady, 

184 j of a Female, 194; of a Lady, 

267. 
Lettsom's notice of County Bridewell, 156. 
Library, Public, Warwick, 62; S3. 
Lillington.392. 

Lions, (Rubens') siory of two, 212, 
Longbridge House, 349. 
Loutberbourg's sea fight, 219. 
Lucy Family, 433. 

M." 
Machiavcl, notice of, 19J„ 



INDEX. 



Manufactures of Warwick ; early stuff, 
75; worsted, 76; coMon weaving, 77 ; 
cotton spinning, 77 ; lace, 78. 

Marble Yard, Warwick, 64. 

Market P ace, Warwick, 62. 

Matthew, Rev. M. 134. 

Middleton's analysis of Leamington Water, 
298, note. 

Millar's Ascension, 102. 

Mill-street, Warwick, 57. 

Mint, ancient, at Warwick, 74. 

Monge's Joseph and Potiphar's Wife, 269. 

Montfort Family (de Thurstane) 377. 

Montfort Family (Earl of Leicester) 405. 

Monument of the first Thomas Beauchamp, 
111 ; of the second, 109; of Richard 
Beauchamp, 120; of Sir T. Puckering, 
113; of Lord Brooke, 115; of Robert 
Dudle3 r , 122 ; of Ambrose Dudley, 
124; of Robert Dudley, (an infant,) 
125 ; of Lady C. Leveson, 125 ; of 
Judge Willes, 330 ; of Satchwell; 331 ; 
of Captain Kingsmill, 357 ; of Earl 
Ferrers, 362 ; of the Parr Family, 368, 
Appendix ; of T. Spencer, Esq, 376 ; 
of the Peyto Family, 332; of the Wag- 
staffe Family, 335; of the Lei^h Family, 
395; of the Lucy Family, 35! , 435; 
of Shakespeare, 425 ; of Mr. Combe, 
416; of Mr. Kendall, 416; of the 
Clopton Family, 415 ; of Dean Balsal, 

Moody, Rev. J. 138. [418. 

Moreville House, 347- 

Murillos Girl blowing bubbles, 190 ; Girl 
with a feather, 190. 

My ton, 58. 

N. 

Navigation Mill, 78. 

Neild's notice of Warwick Gaol, 148. 

Neville, Earl of Warwick, 34. 

New bold Comyn, 388. 

Nevsburg, Earls of Warwick, 28. 

Newton, Rev. J. 137. 

North Gate-street, Warwick, 59. 

O. 

Offa, notice of, 389. 

Offchurch Bury, 389 ; Village, 391. 

P. 
Packsaddle Hill, 348. 
Pack wood House, 373. 
Pa? r, Dr. 364. 
Parr, Old, notice of, 215. 
Patoun's portrait of Fulk. 1st Lord Brooke, 

173; of Henry IV. of France, 198; 

Muse of Painting, 181. 
Percy, Earl of Northumberland, 188. 
Peyto Family, 381. 
Pinley Abbey. 376. 
PJantagenet, Earls of Warwick, 35. 



Poor Houses, Warwick, 95 ; 96. 

Pourbus' portrait of a Female, 20-t. 

Poussin'9 two landscapes, 176. 

Presion Bagot, 376. 

Priory, at Warwick, history of, 237 ; 

mansion, 248 ; pleasure grounds, 249. 
Puckering Family, 245* 

R- 

Race Course, Warwick, 63. 

Radford, 389. 

Radway, 356. 

R.d Horse, 358. 

Rembrandt's portrait of a Warrior, 211 ; 
of Captain of the Dutch Guard, 214; 

Reynolds'. (Sir J ) School Boy, 216 ; por- 
trait of Lord Lindsay, 268. 

Rich, Earls of Warwick, 37. 

Rich, Robert Earl of Warwick, 189. 

Roads about Warwick, 51. 

Roman station, at Chesterton, 380. 

Roman fosse way, 353 ; 380; 391. 

Romney's portrait of E. W. Montague, 
177; of Brandt; 207. 

Round table, at Warwick, 13; at Kenil- 
worth, 405. 

Rous, John. 254. 

Royal visits to Warwick, of Elizabeth, 15, 
243; James I. 19; William 111. 19. 

Royal visits of Elizabeth, to Kenilwoith 
Castle, 18, 406. 

Rubens' portrait of Earl of Arundel, 183; 
of Ignatius Loyala, 186; of Spinola, 
213; of his first Wife, 184; of his se- 
cond Wife, 208; of a General, 203; 2 
Lions,212; sketch of the four Evange- 
lists, 196 ; two Heads of Old Men, 200 ; 
Head of an Old Man, 204. 

Rupert, Prince, notice of, 190. 

Russell's analysis of the Leamington Water, 

Russel, Earl of Bedford, 197. [280. 

Russcl, first Duke of Bedford, 197. 

Rutty 's analysis of the Leamington Water, 

Ruysdale's Landscape, 267. [280. 

Ryckaert, notice of, 181. 

Ryland, Rev. J. 139. 
S. 

St. Michael, order of, celebrated, 14, 240. 

Sahsford, Warwick, 61. 

Salvator Rosa's 2 sketches of the story of 
Polycrates, ( App. )\16i 2 Landscapes, 
196, 198; Landscape, 219; a Study, 

Satchwell, B. notice of 332. [219. 

Saxon Earli of Warwick, 24. 

Schools of Warwick; College, 84 ; Cha- 
pel, 90; of Industry, 91 ; Sunday, 92. 

Schut's Battle Piece, 204. 

Shakespeare's birth- place, 418; school, 
419; maniage, 420; residence, 422; 
monument, 426 ; family, 428. 



INDEX. 



Sherbaurne, 346. 

Shirley Family, 361. 

Short's analysis of Leamington Water, 280. 

Sidney, Sir Philip, notice of, 221. 

Smith-street, Warwick, 55. 

Smythe Family, 376. 

Snyder, notice of, 212. 

Southam. 391. 

SpencejyT, 316. 

Spinola. notice of, 213. 

SpHftg, 345. 

Springfield, 371. 

Stanwyck's Peter io prison, 202; Peter 
delivered, 202. 

Siivichal), 339. 

Stonelesgli Abbey, 393, 444; Village, 395. 

Slonsy Thorpe, 391. 

Stratford, 413 ; church, 414 ; chapel, 416; 
guildhall, 417 ; town.hall,417 ; jubilee, 
431* 

T. 

Tachbroke, SSI. 

1 eider's Sorceress and Companion, 199; 
Gnard Room, 200. 

Theatre, Warwick. 83 ; Leamington, 333. 

Thynne. Thomas, 208. 

Tintoretto's portrait of Davilla, 189. 

Titian's Duchess of Parma, 194. 

Trade of Warwick, 48, 74. 
V. 

Va'asquez's portrait of Gondomar, 214. 

Vandyck's poi trait of Charles I on horse- 
back, 173 ; of. a Lady and her Son, 175 ; 
Counless of Carlisle, 179; Charles 1. 
179. 183 ; Duke of Alva, 179 ; Graham, 
Marquis of Mom rose, 180 ; Ryckaert, 
181 ; a General, 184 ; Spanish General, 
186 ; a Nobleman, 136 ; Percy, Earl of 
Northumberland, 183; Earl of Strafford, 
188; Rich, Earl of Warwick, 139; 
Prince Rupert, 190; Macbiavel, i90; 
Marquis of Huntley, 191 ; Henrietta 
Maria, 191,216 ; Francis, Earl of Bed- 
ford, 197 ; a Sebastian, 200; Boy, 201 ; 
Lady, 508; Family of Charles 1.211; 
V/ifc of Snyder, 2*12; Old Parr, 215; 
George, Du!:e of Buckingham, and his 
Brother, 218; Princes Rupert and Mau- 
rice, 217. 
Vandervelde's Storm and Wreck, 197 ; 
Sea Fight, 2C4; Sea Piece, 219. 

Vase, celebrated Antique, 228. 
Veronese'*, (Raul) Boy with a Racket. 

196; Portrait of a Nun, 218. 
Vicars of Si. Mary's, Warwick, 116. 
Vicars of St. Nicholas, Warwick, 132. 



Views of Warwick, from Leamington road 
65; v from Tachbrooke road, 67 ; from 
the New Bridge, 68 ; from St. Nicholas 
meadow, 69; from Coventry road, 69; 
from Black low Hill, 70; from Guy's 
Cross Hill, 70 ; from Hampton Hill, 71 ; 
from Wedgnock Park, 72. 

Vinci (L da) Catherine of Arragon, 175. 
U. 

Ufton,391. 

Umberjude Hall, 37 5* 
4/ W. 

Wagstaffe Family, 384, 385, 

Walker's portrait of Oliver Cromwell; 207. 

Walton Hall, 352. 

Warwick, founded by Gutheline, 1 ; sup- 
posed to have been a Bishop's See, 2; 
disputed whether a Roman Station, 3 ; 
enlarged, by Ethelfleda, 5 ; fortified, 6 ; 
paved, 7 ; represented in Parliament, 8 ; 
incorporated 9; destroyed by fire, 10; 
rebuilt, il ; present stase, 45; recent 
improvements, 47 ; population, 49. 

Warwick Castle, founded by Ethelfleda, 
gateway, 161 ; Guy's tower, 161, 166, 
168; Caesar's tower, 159, 166, 168; 
169 ; repaired and adorned by Fulk, 
first Lord Brooke, 163 ; entrance, 
165; near view, 166 ; inner court, 167 ; 
hall, 170 ; dining room, 173 ; anti- 
room, 174; cedar room, 177; gilt 
room, 182 ; state bed room, 192 ; state 
dressing room, 195; compass window, 
204 ; armoury, 205 ; chapel, 209 ; break- 
fast room, 211; waiting room, 215; 
library, 216; red bed chamber, 216; 
red dressing room, 218; domestic offi- 
ces, 224 ; view frum Guy's tower, 226 ; 
dungeon, 227; pleasure groia.ds, 227 ; 
green-house, 228; pavilion, 230; hill- 
house, 231 ; porter's lodge, 232 ; park, 

Wedgnock Park, 72, 363. [234. 

Welcombe Hills, 348; lodge, 348. 

Wellesbourne, 359. 

Wentworth, Earl of Strafford, 188, 191. 

West-street, Warwick, 53. 

Wilson's portrait of Shakespeare, 431. 

Windmill. Chesterton, 383. 

Winsbrop'a (Dr.) analysis of the Learning, 
ton Water, 294. 

Wise Family, 246. 

Woodcote, 344. 

WooUon, Leek, 344 ; Wawen, ST5. 

Wren Family, 367. 

Wroxhail Abbey, 566 ; Church, 367. 
Z. 

Zuccaro's portrait of Davilla, 189. 



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